A piece of Coil Spring has broken off at the top. 

 

Can the spring be replaced without removing the hub? I don't have the bi-hex socket to remove the hub nut.

 

I'm asking because the Haynes manual goes into great detail about removing the whole hub assembly and strut.

A piece of Coil Spring has broken off at the top. 

 

Can the spring be replaced without removing the hub? I don't have the bi-hex socket to remove the hub nut.

 

I'm asking because the Haynes manual goes into great detail about removing the whole hub assembly and strut.

 

You probably don't have the necessary spring compressor either, you'll need to buy these tools or get someone else to do it for you.

Done it on my 1.4TDI drivers side. You need to undo the anti roll bar drop link, drop the bottom ball joint out by removing the 3 bolts that hold it to the track control arm, unclamp the strut from the hub carrier (think its 2 bolts then spread the split hub body from around the strut to allow it to slide out). Undo the top strut mount then it should come out as a strut with spring in position. Think that the drivers side is easier as the driveshaft is longer and allows the track control arm to drop lower. You obviously need a spring compressor to compress the spring and allow the top plate to be removed - just be careful with the compressed spring.

Thanks Keith

 

Yes, I'm going to buy spring compressors. It is the driver's side so fingers crossed.

Need a vw hub spreader tool really, pain in the rear without one

I'm sure I've read something about an Allen key with two sides ground down a bit as a DIY version? 8mm?

Done a few, easy enough. Drove a metal wedge down to spread hub, lovely job

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Started doing this yesterday, but had to leave it as it was getting dark and we were running out of ideas about how to get the strut to separate from the wheel bearing housing. I think where we've gone wrong is not unfastening the lower ball joint from the the lower suspension arm as Keith suggested above. The reason we didn't is because we we're following this guide;

 

http://www.seat-ibiza-mk4.co.uk/ibiza_front_shock_absorber_change.htm

 

.....and he doesn't tell you to unfasten the lower balljoint.

 

 

Another stumbling block is that the thread on the nut end of the wheel bearing housing pinch bolt seems to have disappeared (sorry, don't know what other word to use, spoiled maybe). We have the bolt completely loose though, probably about 6mm of clean shaft showing; does the bolt have to be completely removed? I can't see why it should if it's only a clamp bolt!

 

Also, I'm wondering if the top of the strut has been damaged. Here's some photo's.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fi81rwynl787r33/AABaOaLUyVatRyjpsAjznyx0a?oref=e

 

What's clearly happened, is that the larger diameter of the coil after it's broken off has passed beyond its normal location point. That now explains why it was making clicking/crunching noises when the wheel was turned. Can anyone tell from the pictures whether something at the top of the strut has been damaged? If it has, is it the strut itself or the top mount that's been damaged?

 

I should explain that my girlfriend just wants to fix this spring problem and get the car to a garage (she's thoroughly fed up with it TBH) to Part Ex it, so doesn't want to spend too much money replacing anything else (preferably just the Coil Spring).

Edited 14 August, 201510 yr by phs12

From experience when mine snapped a spring, the shock blew out and the top mount bearing bit the dust too. The bolt needs to be removed to extract the strut, as the strut has a tab on the back that keeps it centred and the bolt goes through this. Without a hub spreader or large metal wedge theres no hope of removing the strut. I found it better to just remove a strut from a scrapyard instead of buying new parts as i sold mine soon after, also a new spring may make the car sit higher due to the other springs settling. Hope this helps

Opening up the hub needs to be done very carefully as if you open it too far you will split/crack the cast hub assembly. I tried using various screw driver bits but they were all too steep a wedge so if you blinked they fell out or flew out. But I must have eventually managed as I completed the driver's side without the official "hub spreader" - which I bought (Laser Tools) when I did the other side, that tool makes life so easy. The trouble you are probably having will be due to the strut corroded to the hub, once you have run in some release fluid - I always say do not use any WD-40 until you have had some movement, Halfords probably sells some strong release fluid, or Screwfix etc.

 

Damage, I have only ever found that the top bearing will have been trashed and overdue replacing anyway, though it is safer to buy a new top mount if only to save you finding the original unfit for further use.

 

Top tip from an idiot:- remember to remove the hub spreader before tightening the clamping bolt!

Edited 14 August, 201510 yr by rum4mo

Thanks guys. I now know the bolt has to come right out and not to overstretch the hub.

 

If anyone else comes along and looks at the photo's I'd be grateful for your opinions (if Dropbox asks you to join, just click the cross to say no thanks). 

Yes, you definitely have to fully remove the pinch bolt. I did both my struts by just using a screwdriver to open the hub carrier but it was a bit of a pain. If I remember rightly, the driver's side is the worst side to do as the driveshaft doesn't allow the hub to drop as far as the passenger side, so getting enough drop to get the strut out is difficult. I had a real struggle to get the spring compressed enough.

 

Your top bearings look pretty shot.

 

In case you need it, the part number for the pinch bolt is N90954802 and the nut is N10106402

Not done this yet, as currently waiting for an M14 spline bit to come to unfasten the pinch bolt (tried 5 places locally and none stock it (btw, we already have a set of Hex and Spline bits with Spline up to M12, but no M14)).

 

We're using these spring compressors;

 

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/garage-equipment/sealey-ak3841-coil-spring-compressor-2pc

 

which have a hex nut (and 1/2" drive female) at one end. Which way round should they be attached? We have them with the hex nut at the bottom but the photo on that link shows them at the top. With the nut at the top you can't get a socket on the hex and turning it with a stubby spanner would take forever (there's no instructions with the compressors). With the nut at the bottom the other end of the threaded bar starts to dig into the underside of the front wing.

Edited 18 August, 201510 yr by phs12

Dude, just completely remove the strut THEN use the spring compressors, you can then do it on a bench.

Dude, just completely remove the strut THEN use the spring compressors, you can then do it on a bench.

I thought the Coil Spring had to be compressed to relieve the downward tension on the strut so that it can be removed from the wheel bearing assembly? That's what the Ibiza Mk4 guide (link above) shows for the drivers side.

I thought the Coil Spring had to be compressed to relieve the downward tension on the strut so that it can be removed from the wheel bearing assembly? That's what the Ibiza Mk4 guide (link above) shows for the drivers side.

 

Forgot you weren't removing the hub assembly, probably would have been quicker and easier to just buy the socket for the hub nut though.

Forgot you weren't removing the hub assembly, probably would have been quicker and easier to just buy the socket for the hub nut though.

I see! Thanks anyway.

Spring doesn't need compressing, especially if broken

Quote: "Not done this yet, as currently waiting for an M14 spline bit to come to unfasten the pinch bolt (tried 5 places locally and none stock it (btw, we already have a set of Hex and Spline bits with Spline up to M12, but no M14))."

 

Yup that certainly rings a bell, it was a bit of a buggar messing around at year end finding places that were open and stocked the M14  - I think that the VAG parts listings call it a Torx head, well mine were not!

 

My only really success story on the "tools" side of this job was the fluky purchase of a suitable socket to get the hub nut off a few months before the spring broke!

Edited 18 August, 201510 yr by rum4mo

Spring doesn't need compressing, especially if broken

 

It does. You can't get the strut out of the hub otherwise. I know, I've done it.

Spring doesn't need compressing, especially if broken

 

Unfortunately the new spring will though!

It does. You can't get the strut out of the hub otherwise.

 

I think that my one broke at exactly half height, now that makes it nice and short and basically a solid tube of metal.

It does. You can't get the strut out of the hub otherwise. I know, I've done it.

 

Thanks TMB

Quote: "Not done this yet, as currently waiting for an M14 spline bit to come to unfasten the pinch bolt (tried 5 places locally and none stock it (btw, we already have a set of Hex and Spline bits with Spline up to M12, but no M14))."

 

Yup that certainly rings a bell, it was a bit of a buggar messing around at year end finding places that were open and stocked the M14  - I think that the VAG parts listings call it a Torx head, well mine were not!

 

My only really success story on the "tools" side of this job was the fluky purchase of a suitable socket to get the hub nut off a few months before the spring broke!

 

Found out tonight whilst looking for something else and coming across their website, that Andrew Page stock them, quite reasonably priced and we have one close by.

I seem to remember a "rough sort of mate " said "just chop it up into bits with an angle grinder" - I didn't bother!