re the mirror adjustment... mine will operate the right mirror when switched that way, But will randomly also operate the left mirror in the right position ..... hhhmmmm

hhhmmmm indeed. And the connections in the wiring all seam OK, I had a good look at the loom when it was out and couldn't see anything wrong other that a couple of half cut wires where it passes out of the door but they weren't all the way through or any where near each other Becore I changed doors the mirrors both worked fine.

That's how the mirrors are supposed to work. L just operates left alone and R operates both. Stupid feature and I think the theory is so you can drop them both down at the same time to help see when reversing.

That's how the mirrors are supposed to work. L just operates left alone and R operates both. Stupid feature and I think the theory is so you can drop them both down at the same time to help see when reversing.

ahhh , that makes sense as to whats going on! indeed, odd feature...

That's how the mirrors are supposed to work. L just operates left alone and R operates both. Stupid feature and I think the theory is so you can drop them both down at the same time to help see when reversing.

I'm sure they worked individually beforehand, anyway, that means that the right hand mirror on mine doesn't work at all. :(

Page 17 of the manual explains everything.

Page 17 of the manual explains everything.

I didn't read the manual for the Octy, I just took it all to bits instead. Most of the bits covered in the manual aren't there any more.

Talking of bits that aren't there any more, here's the bumper trims:

 

 

 

1 coat of plastic primer and a coat of Black Magic.

Think I've found out what the wire near the wheel connects to, break pad wear indicator. Of course it's not an ABS light you stupid **** was something I was thinking this afternoon. So a set of pads are on their way gone for yellowstuff because I can only get EBC round here and they should be better than the green I had on the Fabia.

yellows stuff are fine on track

yellows stuff are fine on track

I hope so. They should be here tomorrow so hopefully I can get them fitted tomorrow to.

 

I've connected the center break light up and tested it, I stuck the trolley jack between the pedal and steering column to hold it down and had a look:

 

 

Some of them aren't lit up but it's not more than 50% out so it should be fine, although I might get one from the scrappies if I get back there soon and swap out the blown bulbs.

 

Left hand rear light cluster started to come apart as well, so I got some more Gorilla glue out and stuck that back on:

 

 

That's both sides now, the left was fine when I glued the right hand side but I noticed it was coming away this afternoon when i was looking at the center light. One to check for you Sharkie

New post here just to give the up to date to-do list:

 

Swap wheels to Fabia wheels tomorrow.

Clean out all tools, parts, rubish and scrap ect from interior of car and sort out tools ect as they have all been left out like a messy child's bedroom and it's getting annoying.

Get rear bumper from scrap yard when they have an Octy in and fit to car, maybe center break light bulbs to.

Get 3 nuts to hold drivers interior door handle onto door.

Fit Yellowstuff pads when they arrive.

Fit new headlights, indicators and mirrors when they arrive.

Book MOT.

Then unfortunately it looks like Bossfox will have sold all tickets to Bedford unless he gets the 10 more, but I'll look at the MSV site to try and get in or somewhere else will be arranged for its debut. There's one on at Croft on the same day that I might get to.

 

So as for work to the car there isn't much left to do (if you discount re-spraying the whole car and changing the cam-belt that is)

I have my eye on another car on Ebay that is only about 15 miles from me, it's a 51 reg 1.6 petrol one which is currently sat at £102 ending in 2 days. I may buy it if it goes fort the right price, I'll get a taxi to get it and strip off all doors, bumpers, wings, boot and bonnet, lights, radiator if it's the same ect and get the shell scrapped.

So there was a bit of a change of plan today. I've decided not to wait for the parts to arrive to get its MOT and have got some more, the others can be spares.

 

I've bought a cheap drivers side headlight and passenger side indicator unit from the scrap yard and fitted those, then I've changed the wheels over, stuck the number plates on and changed the drivers side door mirror over to the manual one that the new door came with because that's decided that it only wants to make a very faint buzzing noise. So now I have a manual mirror on the right and an electric one on the left, but at least they are both fully adjustable so that shouldn't be a problem. I got it booked in for its MOT on Wednesday the 16th at 9 am so if those break pads arrive before then hopefully I'll be able to pick them up after work if I get done soon enough otherwise I'll have to bodge the connector it quickly at some point to put the light out.

 

Picture as it is now, look at the lovely arch gap now.

 

Couple of little bits done to it this evening after work. I "fixed" the pad wear indicator light by taking the connector that plugs into the rear window for the center break light off the old loom and plugging it into the connector for the pad sensor to bridge the 2 pins. Works very well and doesn't cause any damage to the connector either so I can plug in the new pads when they get here. Then I've taped that up. Thought I'd test the side indicators to make sure they worked as I figured I hadn't tested them yet. Found the right hand side one wasn't working so took it apart and tested the bulb, fine, so tested the socket, no power. Had an idea, I'll wire it straight from the front indicator. Got some wire and cut the 2 wired going to the front indicator and joined the 2 wires to that, then turned the indicators on to test the connection and low and behold the side one worked. Turns out it was a dodgy connection. Don't know why it didn't show any voltage on the tester. So I re-joined the 2 wires and sprayed the connections with some WD 40 to clean them out a bit which seams to have worked. So it should go through an MOT now, finally. I've insured it for the day with Temp cover so we shall see.

 

At some point I'll have to join, solder and heat shrink all these dodgy joints. That's the tailgate loom, the rear lights where the tow-bar was tapped in and that indicator.

Ok people, just dropped it off for its MOT. Wish me luck.

Why does this thread remind me of...

 

Why does this thread remind me of...

I don't know, all the bits fit mine.

 

Sort of

 

Still no news from the garage.

I think bossfox got his 10 more spots.

I think bossfox got his 10 more spots.

Good. If it passes I'm having one.

Any news Dave?

Did it pass?

Bad news, but not that bad. Car failed because the handbrake wasn't effective enough, the drivers side front indicator was the wrong colour, the drivers side number plate light wasn't working, the wipers weren't good enough and then the wiring was all over the place and apparently it all needs to be tied together and fastened to the body of the car.

So I've replaced the wiper blades, changed the indicator bulb back to the old one from the original unit and wrapped insulating tape round all the wiring and fastened it to the car with cable ties. I've adjusted the handbrake and drove for a bit with it on to burn off any crap and found the number plate bulb had a dodgy connection so I've done the same to that as the drivers side repeator indicator and applied liberal amounts of WD40 which seams to have helped.

Got the car back to him at 10 to 5 which is apparently too late for today so that's that. I hope they only test the things it's failed on because moving all that wiring has done something to the centre break light. Anything else he can fix it as I don't think it will cost much now. But it's annoying that i can't have it back today because I wanted to go for a drive while its insured but now I can't. On a better note my front break pads have arrived.

Car was booked in for the test at 9 this morning but only went in at half 2 so that has screwed up the day. Last time I go there for anything.

But anyway, it didn't fail on emissions or anything structural, or even the main brakes so I'm not complaining that much, not to the car anyway.

Edited 16 March, 201610 yr by Outofthi5world

Try and sort the brake light, I might be wrong but think it goes back in for a full MOT?

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You will be lucky as the re-test only tests the failed and advisory items. What garage did you take to get your mot as I'm very local to you over in Richmond.

You will be lucky as the re-test only tests the failed and advisory items. What garage did you take to get your mot as I'm very local to you over in Richmond.

Ah my bad, ignore my previous comment then lol, couldn't remember if it was that or the latter[emoji14]

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You will be lucky as the re-test only tests the failed and advisory items. What garage did you take to get your mot as I'm very local to you over in Richmond.

It was BP Tyre and Exhaust on the industrial estate in Colburn. Handy for me really as it's a short walk over the road pretty much and he is a genuine, honest guy that doesn't try to up-sell and makes a good job of what he does but I find it bloody annoying that he leaves stuff like this till the last minute (he sends the cars over the road to another garage for the test) and never seams to call when something is done when you ask to be called. Minor irritations but I can't be bothered with it if I'm being honest. I'd rather take my cars to Northallerton and have them in, done and back the same day.

 

And if I am lucky and they only test the failures then thank god for that because the break light ect will be fixed regardless but everything will be getting stripped out at some point or another for the re-spray.