Hello everyone, i'm new here so be gentle with the Briskoda virgin...

Ok i have a 2001 Fabia 1.9SDI and want to change the front brake pads and discs, i have all the parts, what tools do i require? I want to be prepared.

A jack and an axle stand, a 17mm wheelbrace, a 7mm allen key, a tool for pushing the piston back into the caliper, a Phillips number 3 screwdriver and about 15 minutes per side.

Its also worth having a wire brush to clean up the slide ways and some copper grease. A solvent cleaner for cleaning the new discs as well if they come oiled.

 

An impact driver may also be handy as the retaining screw is sometimes tight. I've had plenty shear off but the screw isn't required, it just makes it less hassle trying to get the wheel nuts back in if the dis is secure.

As above , I did my fronts other day on the golf I used a wire brush to clean up the dust and used some cerratec as well (copper slip prob be alright if you got some )

Copper grease - some dont use it/ but a lot do.

plus gas - or a good penetrating liquid

brake disk cleaner - dont forget to clean the new disks, come with oil coating.

small wire bush, to clean all inside the calliper, where the pads sit.

big wire brush - clean all mating surfaces, you want them all clean and level.

Degreaser/ grease - clean pistons and re grease - optional.

 

Some stuff seems OTT but its a pain in the arse, when you get squeaking/ sticking/ ratting brakes after, and have to do over it all again.

 

I wouldn't worry about 15min :P i think sepulchave forgets the first time he did his ^^ i would give your self halve a day, all it takes is a few nightmare seized bolts and your over a hour on that.

What is the copper grease used for specifically?

I wouldn't worry about 15min :P i think sepulchave forgets the first time he did his ^^ i would give your self halve a day, all it takes is a few nightmare seized bolts and your over a hour on that.

+1

Give yourself plenty of time. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.

Fingers crossed it all goes according to plan for you!

JRJG

What is the copper grease used for specifically?

 

A light smear on the back of the pads can help stop brake squeal. Obviously don't get any of it on the braking surfaces.

I find an allen key socket head is good for breaking the jont as sometimes they tend to seize and a small allen key just doesn't cut it  

A jack and an axle stand, a 17mm wheelbrace, a 7mm allen key, a tool for pushing the piston back into the caliper, a Phillips number 3 screwdriver and about 15 minutes per side.

In place of the allen key, I'd use an allen socket adapter . Much easier to slacken off the bolts which should be torqued to 28 NM, and for setting the torque on replacement. BUT ONE WARNING .My car came with a pre 3 year MOT, with no advisories. Looking on the old MOT site ,I found an advisory relating to front brake discs, and as the MOT was done by one of the half rod group, I'd suspect the pads were changed at a low mileage, by a heavy handed bloke, as when I replaced the discs at a later dare, I found problems with one thread. The shop that sorted out the problem said that VAG front discs were subject to problems, and heavy handed approach led to thread striping.

i always use the old pads in place to push back the pistons- using the pads to force against- you're replacing them, so they are expendable.

Edited 12 February, 201610 yr by VWD

I always push the piston in before doing anything else,while caliper is fully fixed and solid. (You might need to remove brake fluid resevoir cap to make it easier)

Also before you push the pistons back into the caliper check your brake fluid level,as if it's been topped up when the pads were pretty worn the fluid will overflow as you push the pistons in.

One of the most important things imo is making sure the pads slide nicely,they should be able to slide in and out without sticking in the pad carrier,some aftermarket pads need the paint/powdercoat rubbing down to get them sliding freely.

The area on the pad carrier where the pads sit should be wire brushed until it's free of any corrosion,then once the pads are moving freely in the carrier a light coat of copper slip should be applied

more info:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/388387-disc-and-pad-change/

 

And this video show the same thing, polo is the same :

 

 

Dont forget you need a rewind tool for the rears : http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-brake-caliper-rewind-tool

 

the fronts you dont need, but you do need to push the piston back, the fronts just push in, use what ever. The backs twist/ turn back in hence needing the tool.

Edited 13 February, 201610 yr by FromTheDarkness

 

I wouldn't worry about 15min :p i think sepulchave forgets the first time he did his ^^ i would give your self halve a day, all it takes is a few nightmare seized bolts and your over a hour on that.

 

I was going to say - no way will it take 15 minutes for a first attempt and on a car of that age. Mine ended up taking weeks but that was due to not having everyting I needed! Realistically, it will take a few hours.

Also, make sure you're gentle with the retaining screws that hold the disk onto the hub because mine were seized and we accidentally threaded the screws (and broke a screwdriver). Ended up having to bore them out with my mate's grandad's 50 year old dentistry kit... Also, if you haven't already, go buy some new retaining screws. You can get the discs back on without but it's so much easier with.

A light smear on the back of the pads can help stop brake squeal. Obviously don't get any of it on the braking surfaces.

 

I always put a small amount on the contact points where the pads slide in the carrier as well just to stop them sticking.

I always put a small amount on the contact points where the pads slide in the carrier as well just to stop them sticking.

I put some on the retaining screw to help keep it from siezing for next time too. Don't know if you're meant to or not though.

I put some on the retaining screw to help keep it from siezing for next time too. Don't know if you're meant to or not though.

I did that on my last car, it's only a retainer so don't think it can hurt

I did that on my last car, it's only a retainer so don't think it can hurt

 

And that screw has no where to escape to when the wheel is on - maybe I could "better" that, I used SS screws AND used a spot of Copaslip!! 

If the new discs are grey, that coating gets left on - the pads will wipe it off, make sure the mating surface on the hubs are cleaned of any rust, I apply a spot of Copslip there as well, makes life too easy next time the discs are changed!

 

Edit:- any grease being used on the pistons and mounting slide bolts needs to be something like red rubber grease so that it does not annoy the piston seals or slide bolt bushes. 

Edited 14 February, 201610 yr by rum4mo

Confused as to which tool for removing pads.

Some people state 7 mm, I have also come across Torx T40 or T45.

Which is correct as I like to have the right tools to hand before starting the job.

its a 7mm hex

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Didn't much like that video. The mechanic used about ten times as much copaslip as needed. Get that lot hot in hilly country and there will be no front brakes. A very thin smear on mating or rubbing surfaces is all you use.

10 hours ago, LB123 said:

Didn't much like that video. The mechanic used about ten times as much copaslip as needed. Get that lot hot in hilly country and there will be no front brakes. A very thin smear on mating or rubbing surfaces is all you use.

 

Now that you have mentioned that,  seeing that picture I can relate to using the windback tool to press the front pistons back in, I tend to use a block of wood between the windback tool adaptor (reversed as the other side of mine does not have dowel pins) and the piston - gives that tool a bit extra work to do, though prior to needing to own one of these tools I've just used large screwdrivers/small pry bars.

 

Edit:- now that I've watched that video, for anyone that has not ever done this job and has the FS111 callipers, fit the lower end into the calliper carrier first as that end has a lug that needs to get inside the lower end of the carrier - obviously as well as saving most of your Copaslip for the next time, so far my tin has lasted maybe 35>40 years.

Edited 23 December, 20178 yr by rum4mo