Rusty bits.

[muddyboots]

Looking under my Yeti I am astonished at the rusty bits underneath.  Every nut and bolt and forged part is rusty.  I fully realise that it is not dangerous rust but it will make things awkward when any future repairs have to be made.

 

Has anyone else seen the rust under their Yeti?

 

Norry

Every car has rusty bits underneath, it's normal!

All the "thin" bits (floorpan etc) will be painted/undersealed etc, as they'd soon rust through otherwise, but all the "chunky" bits (suspension arms, driveshafts, brake calipers, nuts, bolts etc) will get surface rust on them over time.

Nothing to worry about.

[Ryeman]

I remember it used to be popular to spray bitumen mastic to proof against corrosion but, in fact it used to harden, crack and then trap moisture which actually promoted corrosion.......unless there's a non hardening product now.

[gumdrop]

Rusty screws? I found plenty of A2 Stainless Steel #10x3/4" flanged self tapping screws

like they use on the underwing shields and to hold the mudflaps on but they were all

posidrive screws. The flanged torx self tapping screws were the security type with a

centre pip these were more expensive.

[voxmagna]

What's the problem?  A pozi head is far more universal than torx when it comes to reaching for a screwdriver? Is it about authenticity? Using a non-rusting stainless fastener with a different head that will outlast the rest of the car is a much better solution. I found some OE flanges on screws were slightly larger than the flanged screws I bought,  so I bought some stainless washers if I think they are needed for plastics fixing.

[ktm690rr]

Rust again 

I've just come back from a week's fishing in Sutherland and gave the Yeti a good clean.

Yeah Gods, the state of the rear hubs can be best be described as rotating lumps of rust, you cannot physically see any clean metal. The alloy wheels are immaculate but when you look through the wheels, its an eye opener 

The front hubs are fine. I cannot explain this, this is the first Skoda in 6 that is rusting so much, its 13 months old and I wanted it to last for 2 years if possible. Is anyone else experiencing this ? 

 

M

[Norry]

Yes! As in first post.

Norry

[voxmagna]

Rust again 

I've just come back from a week's fishing in Sutherland and gave the Yeti a good clean.

Yeah Gods, the state of the rear hubs can be best be described as rotating lumps of rust, you cannot physically see any clean metal. The alloy wheels are immaculate but when you look through the wheels, its an eye opener 

The front hubs are fine. I cannot explain this, this is the first Skoda in 6 that is rusting so much, its 13 months old and I wanted it to last for 2 years if possible. Is anyone else experiencing this ? 

 

M

I left Yeti parked for a few days and the front discs and rear are all rusty. I think this is normal these days, because they don't put so much expensive Chromium in the steel mix. If they put in a lot more, we would have stainless steel which would be great. I had to replace a pair of worn front discs on a VW after 40K miles. I felt that was a bit rich when I've had discs run to 100K without reaching the minimum thickness wear limit. The new replacement discs whilst being huge and heavy to ship around were relatively cheap. I think the disc wear is due to its metallurgy and harder brake pads. Safety and less brake fade comes at a price - softer steel and harder pads! For the VW 40K was about 3 sets of pads.

[Llanigraham]

Rust again 

I've just come back from a week's fishing in Sutherland and gave the Yeti a good clean.

Yeah Gods, the state of the rear hubs can be best be described as rotating lumps of rust, you cannot physically see any clean metal. The alloy wheels are immaculate but when you look through the wheels, its an eye opener 

The front hubs are fine. I cannot explain this, this is the first Skoda in 6 that is rusting so much, its 13 months old and I wanted it to last for 2 years if possible. Is anyone else experiencing this ? 

 

M

 

Perfectly normal.

Don't worry about it.

[rriggs]

Hubs and discs rusting is normal and nothing to worry about like Llanigrham says. It's more apparent on some cars more than others but normal nonetheless.

[Sad555]

They should rust when wet due to the high content of cast iron,the content which help spread the heat and reduce warping when breaking and that's why cast iron is used for discs I believe.

[Ryeman]

They should rust when wet due to the high content of cast iron,the content which help spread the heat and reduce warping when breaking and that's why cast iron is used for discs I believe.

Do the imported Japanese ones (not local made) show as much rust?.

Brake dust was never as bad as European one's out here either.

[Norry]

Yes, modern discs are made of poor steel - my 22 year old Jaguar still has the original discs at 85,000 miles and they are in excellent condition!

 

Norry

[Ryeman]

Yes, modern discs are made of poor steel - my 22 year old Jaguar still has the original discs at 85,000 miles and they are in excellent condition!

 

Norry

And springs it seems, I can't recall one on a car for many decades .

[Zarniwoop]

Yes, modern discs are made of poor steel - my 22 year old Jaguar still has the original discs at 85,000 miles and they are in excellent condition!

 

Norry

 

It's not the modern discs that are at fault,  but the modern disc pads which are much harder and more abrasive since asbestos-based linings were outlawed.  This is why these days discs wear out relatively quickly.

If you drove your 22 year old Jaguar 12000+ miles a year with modern compound disc pads on it,  then your Jag discs would wear out, too!  (And the best of luck sourcing replacements! :$$$:  :$$$:  :$$$: )

[Ryeman]

Asian vehicles don't have asbestos either.

[Norry]

It's not the modern discs that are at fault,  but the modern disc pads which are much harder and more abrasive since asbestos-based linings were outlawed.  This is why these days discs wear out relatively quickly.

If you drove your 22 year old Jaguar 12000+ miles a year with modern compound disc pads on it,  then your Jag discs would wear out, too!  (And the best of luck sourcing replacements! :$$$:  :$$$:  :$$$: )

 

No, that is not the problem.  The problem is the rusting of modern discs.  Since about 2000 brake discs have rusted far quicker than before.  I have modern disc pads on my Jaguar.

If you leave a new car out in the rain overnight the discs are rusty by next morning - that doesn't happen to my Jag!  Nor did it happen to my previous cars of the 1990s.

 

Norry

[Ryeman]

Seems like discs will be replaced with pads as consumable items.

[voxmagna]

Seems like discs will be replaced with pads as consumable items.

I am thinking that is true but hard to accept. I did some pad research after I met this on my VW.  Motorcycle pads (running on thin stainless steel discs) wear the discs very quickly when they are the 'hard' spec. composition, whereas softer Kevlar pads do not wear discs at the same rate. Harder pads are used to reduce brake fade during hard braking and tend to be used on Sport vehicles where braking from triple digits might be common (?). If the vehicle weight has gone up, they can offer a cheaper solution to the manufacturer without resizing discs and calipers. Harder pads wear at a slower rate but wear discs faster. Softer pads wear faster but less wear on the discs.

 

I did have a chat to the 'Green Stuff' people' who will sell their OE equivalent, but also have a range of pads using softer friction material, probably less suited to high speed autobahn driving (?). From my experience with softer Kevlar pads it probably means changing them 10-20K and there is more pad dust, but I don't mind that. There is another factor: VW Skoda et Al are all trying to give Long Life service intervals which helps sell cars. They can't do that with softer pads needing replacement at lower mileages. Personally,  I would rather replace pads more often than discs and hubs. A secondary effect to all this is the disc metal particles ground off by the (hard?) pads are coating the wheel axles and under chassis with iron filings which is all going to look like red rust. Since I replaced hubs and pads on the VW with OE spec. I will measure the disc wear at 5K. Based on the result I will consider an alternative pad and measure the disc again at the next 5K. Unfortunately, I'm not a high mileage driver and results will take longer to get.

 

Don't mess with pad specs unless you have done your research and know what you are doing!

Edited 10 March, 2016 by voxmagna

[Ryeman]

I seem to recall BMW had/have a policy of discs at every 2nd pad change...........battery at EVERY service now also.

[voxmagna]

That sounds about right on the pads. Spec. and fit the hard Autobahn pads to get 20K per pad change, then after the second change at 40K replace the discs! Softer pads: Replace at 10K, change more often, but disc might run to 60K??

[Ryeman]

Repeating myself - it's a European thing.

[oldstan]

Repeating myself - it's a European thing.

 

No change there then.