Just wanted to add some more info to this thread.

 

It seems that the Blind Spot position loses power when Start/Stop turns the engine off.

On my camera, the loss in power triggers the camera to turn off.

 

I need to investigate if power is restored when the engine restarts, my guess is that it does. I've only noticed it a couple of times now when driving as it's not obvious.

The camera takes about 15 seconds to shut down totally so it could be that the power has been restored, but doesn't override the shutdown process.

 

Will post my findings.

R.

 

I used this position  (48 - Blind spot detection) and even start - stop  actively stops engine 30 sec. or more the camera have power and not interrupted.

Might be something wrong with your camera or the connections you have 

So I tried it yesterday and found the following:

 

Start/Stop engaging will stop the camera. Camera then powers off.

Engine starting again won't start the camera

 

Engine stopping again will then start the camera, but a subeseqent Stop won't stop the camera.

 

I'm using a cheap chinese Go-Pro style camera, so not expecting much. It is set to power on/off when it detects power via usb conection.

 

Wondering if there is a better fuse position to use, that will maintain live while the ignition is switched on?

I used this position  (48 - Blind spot detection) and even start - stop  actively stops engine 30 sec. or more the camera have power and not interrupted.

Might be something wrong with your camera or the connections you have 

Thanks for posting. I'm using 48 too. Will look into changing the fuse position to have a permanent ignition switched live.

My plan is to install a Raspberry Pi in place of the dashcam at somepoint so I get GPS overlay and more custom functionality. It will have battery backup, but the current start/stop issue, isn't desirable...

I don't know the fuse number but the red 10A fuse I used gives no problems with start stop active.

 

Seeing this thread bumped has reminded me I still have another camera for rear view sitting in its box. one day...

I don't know the fuse number but the red 10A fuse I used gives no problems with start stop active.

 

Seeing this thread bumped has reminded me I still have another camera for rear view sitting in its box. one day...

 

A pic would probably help locate it. If you're able to take one...?

A pic would probably help locate it. If you're able to take one...?

 

Here is the marked location for the piggy fuse i used. 

 

Thanks for posting. I'm using 48 too. Will look into changing the fuse position to have a permanent ignition switched live.

My plan is to install a Raspberry Pi in place of the dashcam at somepoint so I get GPS overlay and more custom functionality. It will have battery backup, but the current start/stop issue, isn't desirable...

 

There are also some micro fuses that are ignition live but i forgot which ones. i tested with a multimeter before installation but micro fuses dont have room around them so i used the 48 location. 

Here is the marked location for the piggy fuse i used. 

 

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

I don't know the fuse number but the red 10A fuse I used gives no problems with start stop active.

When ordering a piggy back fuse, which size is this fuse? 'normal'?

When ordering a piggy back fuse, which size is this fuse? 'normal'?

 

Yes it is normal size.

I bought an 'action cam' that has a dashcam function. It also has a Sony sensor and pretty good picture quality day and night. The only dubious thing about it is the name - Git 2.

 

I also bought a nextbase hardwire kit from maplin.

 

The camera and holder

 

I was going to get a dedicated dashcam but it seemed a bit of a waste. With this I have a fun little toy that can go in its clear plastic case and be taken under water - drive to the airport car park then take the camera with me.

I have a smaller, neater adhesive mount but thought I'd use a suction one for now while setting it up.

 

So on to installation. The glove box stay nearly stumped me before I started. If the manual had shown the keyhole slot it would have been obvious which way to move it to release. As it was the arrows in the picture made me push the wrong way.

 

First thing I did was feed the usb cable through the back of the glovebox

 

Ran the cable in the headlining using a spoon handle to help it in. Then it has to go round the pillar so just kept it as neat as I could.

 

The camera on its suction mount

 

Cable is untidy. need a 90deg adaptor plug

 

Down the bottom having flipped up the edge of the rubber trim to hold/hide the wire it just goes round to under the glove box.

 

I needed an earth from somewhere and there was a torx screw under the lid that felt like it screwed into metal

 

Having looked at other threads on here (Thanks Gizmo) I knew the red 10A fuse was ignition switched. I tested it with the meter and also checked the screw was a good earth. Don't have enough hands to meter and take a picture.

 

Pulled the 10A fuse and plugged it into the piggy back unit that came with the hardwire kit then turned the ignition on - we have power.

 

Had a lot of excess wire so I just cable tied it and propped it in front of what I'm guessing is the pollen filter. It will flip out of the way if need be.

 

I've tested it. With the camera set to dashcam mode it turns on and records when the car starts. It carried on recording using its own battery afterwards. Don't know how long it keeps going but the internal battery is supposed to do over an hour.

Hi,

 

Just been looking to fit my dashcam and can't see this screw - where is it located (is it underneath the glove box, and if so how does the cable not foul to glove box lid?) and is the cable you have attached to it in the picture already connected or is that the dash-cam cable - looked a bit heavy duty for that?

 

Thanks

The screw I used for earth is screwed upwards i.e. head facing the floor and is right next to the passenger door/dash trim. You probably need the stay unhooked to see it. There was no wire to it until I attached the lead to the nextbase adaptor.

 

As to how the cable misses when the glove box shuts I don't remember.. but it was never a problem.

The screw I used for earth is screwed upwards i.e. head facing the floor and is right next to the passenger door/dash trim. You probably need the stay unhooked to see it. There was no wire to it until I attached the lead to the nextbase adaptor.

 

As to how the cable misses when the glove box shuts I don't remember.. but it was never a problem.

Hi, thanks for the response. I have since spent a few minutes with the circuit tester and went for the option above with the side dash panel removed - there are several bolts in that area, just need to loosen one and wrap the wire round it, then piggy back fuse holder. Using this area is also much neater - there is plenty of spare room for the spare cable and the cable goes straight in there from the side rubber door trim. I followed the 'OCD'  post above and have no cables visible between the camera and fuse box.

 

I will post some pictures later for info, I went for the Street Guardian V3 dash cam. Was £200 including 128gb micro SD. It is a wedge shaped camera that is discreet and attaches straight to the screen without need for a suction mount. Camera is also not highly easily from outside. The other important thing with this camera is that it is capacitor powered rather than having a battery.

Hi,

 

Links to photos on my dash cam install. This is a street guardian v3 as above. The dash cam is to the left of the mirror and the GPS unit (which should be min of about 15cm from the camera) is to the right.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/gallery/album_2155/gallery_146890_2155_654487.jpg

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/gallery/album_2155/gallery_146890_2155_1163009.jpg

Any thoughts on where to connect to earth on a left hand drive S3?

Can I use any of those three clearly visible torx screws?

 

Yes any of those bolts that clearly go to the chassis (via the metal bracket) will be fine.

On 5/21/2016 at 10:54, RobertP said:

Thanks. It's been a couple of months now. I've never had a dashcam before. So far I've not needed anything it has recorded and obviously hope it stays that way.

 

Yesterday on a 2 lane dual carriageway I was about to move back into the inside lane when a car leisurely pulled out of a lay by in front of me (no indicator) and more importantly in front of the lorry I had just passed. I avoided it easily but the lorry had to emergency stop - all of which I watched in the rear view mirror. Made me wish I had a rear facing camera to record it.

 

clip

 

 

 

YouTube has knocked the quality a fair bit.

 

 

So I may be looking at another camera fitting before too long.

Octavia drivers eh? 

I've just registered, so I could say thanks for this information.  I've recently taken delivery of an L&K MKIII estate, replacing my MkII, and have yet to refit my DrivePro.  This helps a lot, since I couldn't decide whether to use that Torx screw or not for an earth.

 

Cheers

Edited 31 March, 20179 yr by Mikeworcs

Here's where I connected my dashcam 

Slightly off tangent, but do you guys leave your dashcams in place when the car is locked or overnight or do you take them off/out of the car?

im still in the paranoid stage at the moment and worry about someone breaking into the car for it so I take it out.

Mine unclips from the mount easily but I leave it in. If you mount it carefully they aren't that visible from outside the car .

I left mine in my MkII all the time, and will do when I refit it to my new MKIII.  

 

Never had any issue with it, other than finding it dropped off the windscreen overnight, but that was very rare!

I leave mine in place even though it unclips as I found that I was driving off with it still in the glove box!

What I did do was black out all the chrome on the lens to make it less noticeable.

Leave mine in also. I placed it so that the dashcam is mostly hidden by the black dots by the mirror and only bottom third of the dashcam with the lens is below this. So not very visible. Also, I wonder if the black dots will help at all in keeping it cool in the sun.

It's probably already been mentioned but make sure you get the capacitor version of dash cam and you shouldn't get any overheating issues.