Anyone got any advice on things to avoid?

 

The bracket needs to tilt and turn, and the wall has block work A.N unspecified distance behind the plasterboard, because it's a dab external wall.

Any advice appreciated on mounting or on brackets for a 30KG 50" TV.

 

Thanks

So there is a brick wall behind the board? If so then I'd just drill into the brick and use the long bolts and plugs that come with the bracket.   

 

Take your pick on amazon for what bracket you want but don't pay to much, I bought the one in the link for my 55' Sony as I needed the tilt and its perfect for the price.

 

 http://www.amazon.co.uk/VonHaus-PREMIUM-Slim-Wall-Bracket/dp/B003U46SWC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1459271255&sr=8-4&keywods=tv+wall+bracket

Edited 29 March, 201610 yr by LHVRS

There is a plasterboard wall, then dabs of adhesive (at random intervals) along with void and then there is some blockwork (Potentially the gap between the plasterboard and the solid wall could be as big as 1".

 

I'm thinking I should drill into the blockwork, then using the correct type of screw/rawl for the job mount it into the wall.

My only concern is the gap between the plasterboard and the blockwork making it a weak mount for the bracket at the front.

 

The rawls wouldn't be standard ones, but more like these:

 

http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/products/lightweight-fixings/plastic-expansion-plugs/4all-universal-plugs/

 

Actually a bit of digging suggests either of these two would work better:

 

http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/

 

http://www.drylinepro.com/DrylinePro-Products/8-Fixing-Kit/flypage.tpl.html

Edited 29 March, 201610 yr by cheezemonkhai

I have the dryline pros and they are good but cost a bit and may not cover a one inch void.

 

On my walls there is about a 10mm gap behind the board, I used the M10 bolts (about 3") and wall plugs that came with the bracket.  

Edited 29 March, 201610 yr by LHVRS

You could use a resin sleeve fixing with threaded rod, however, it is probably overkill.

Those rigifix actually look very good though.

That said these look good http://gripitfixings.co.uk/new-gripit-2015/ however, I get nervous just relying on plasterboard.

What I would do is find and choose a bracket and measure the size of it. then cut away the plasterboard and remove any plaster from the brickwork. Then find the correct thickness of wood and secure that to the wall and attach the bracket to the wood.

 

This is how I have fixed radiators onto dot and dab in the past as using longer bolts can still pinch the plasterboard and cause cracking, especially with a 30KG TV

30kg on dot n dab plasterboard.

 

I would not risk it. I would chop the plasterboard out and put batons in. Then fix through them into the wall.

 

Maybe drill a hole and squeeze some expanding foam in for an easier, but not so secure fixing.

What I would do is find and choose a bracket and measure the size of it. then cut away the plasterboard and remove any plaster from the brickwork. Then find the correct thickness of wood and secure that to the wall and attach the bracket to the wood.

 

This is how I have fixed radiators onto dot and dab in the past as using longer bolts can still pinch the plasterboard and cause cracking, especially with a 30KG TV

You beat me to it.

Re most of the links above, It is one thing them stating that they hold 60 or 80 or 100kg but particularly if you are having a bracket that swings out from the wall (or turns) then the most important part of fixing this is ensuring that the fixings do not pull out of the wall.

 

With a swing out bracket, I would use similar to these. Fit these into the wall and then put batons in over the threads as spacers for the void, screw these to the wall then, too and then fit the Tv bracket onto these rods.

Edited 29 March, 201610 yr by Tilt

https://youtu.be/ET10NnL2kTI

Re most of the links above, It is one thing them stating that they hold 60 or 80 or 100kg but particularly if you are having a bracket that swings out from the wall (or turns) then the most important part of fixing this is ensuring that the fixings do not pull out of the wall.

With a swing out bracket, I would use similar to these. Fit these into the wall and then put batons in over the threads as spacers for the void, screw these to the wall then, too and then fit the Tv bracket onto these rods.

100% agree. Through bolts in the blockwork. Its not the shear strength that matters its the Moment applied on the mounting point when the tv is swivleed out from the wall. Mark the plaster around the bracket then having removed the slab either battens or build out the hole with some marine ply to be flush with the face of the slab. Bolts through the bracket and the ply into the through bolt. It will never move.

Re most of the links above, It is one thing them stating that they hold 60 or 80 or 100kg but particularly if you are having a bracket that swings out from the wall (or turns) then the most important part of fixing this is ensuring that the fixings do not pull out of the wall.

 

With a swing out bracket, I would use similar to these. Fit these into the wall and then put batons in over the threads as spacers for the void, screw these to the wall then, too and then fit the Tv bracket onto these rods.

 

What he said

To my mind, two problems to be addressed .

1)- finding a secure left right and up down fixing.

2), preventing the lower end punching through the plaster board, if no solid backing is provided. 

the top of the fixing needs to be fixed to a solid point, but the lower point will be forced back, and need to be supported to prevent the lower point punching back into an empty space. . .

Indeed.

 

1 I can find, it's 2 that concerns me more.

 

The rigifix look good, bcause they have a plug that goes in the blockwork, then a solid metal part which goes into the plug and a screw that goes into the metal body.

That should in theory stop the puncturing you're talking about.

 

Unfortunately the wall is papered, so it's not an option for cutting chunks out of it (don't ask), so I may have to take the small hole and expanding foam approach.

 

Otherwise I think it might have to be that she just accepts a stand rather than wall mounting.

There is a plasterboard wall, then dabs of adhesive (at random intervals) along with void and then there is some blockwork (Potentially the gap between the plasterboard and the solid wall could be as big as 1".

I'm thinking I should drill into the blockwork, then using the correct type of screw/rawl for the job mount it into the wall.

My only concern is the gap between the plasterboard and the blockwork making it a weak mount for the bracket at the front.

http://www.drylinepro.com/DrylinePro-Products/8-Fixing-Kit/flypage.tpl.html

I have used the dryline pro above on my 37" TV in my bedroom and have the same dot-and-dab style plasterboard in front of solid brickwork and has been fine for the best part of three years.

My better half has now decided that she doesn't like the bedroom setup anymore, so the TV now needs to be on an internal stud wall which does not have a solid wall I can drill into.

I've been told to find the battens behind the plasterboard and drill into those and it will hold as modern TVs aren't that heavy.

Time will tell if this is correct!

Grip it fixings are also ideal for hanging loads directly down from plasterboard in a stud wall. Ideally you want to spread the fixings or mount in such a way as to avoid excessive moments.

Another method I have seen to prevent pinching the plasterboard and squashing the cavity is to use a stiff spacer like a off cut of copper pipe between the fitting and brick. Long screws and conventional wall fixings with this is a Cheaper option than something like a gripfix specialist fixing.

Edited 30 March, 201610 yr by 'daiking'

I have used the dryline pro above on my *37" TV in my bedroom and have the same dot-and-dab style plasterboard in front of solid brickwork and has been fine for the best part of three years.

My better half has now decided that she doesn't like the bedroom setup anymore, so the TV now needs to be on an internal stud wall which does not have a solid wall I can drill into.

I've been told to find the battens behind the plasterboard and drill into those and it will hold as modern TVs aren't that heavy.

Time will tell if this is correct!

*The Op's Tv is probably twice the weight @ 50 inch. (just guessing).

 

Plastic plugs in the Op's scenario, :no: . Not for me anyway.

 

I think you will be very lucky to find them in the right place, and 30kg (for instance) is pretty heavy.

 

You takes your chances, but I would like to make sure it would not fall down..............Do you have kids or pets, with soft heads?

 

If you use plastic plugs get them to wear safety helmets.

 

The 'withdrawal load' of the fittings with the weight of the Tv & bracket combined, when the bracket is extended, would need to be upwards of 100kg to be reasonably safe. And I wouldn't want to be just reasonably safe. (I did watch the link and that was a plaster - not plasterboard - wall, but same equation).

Edited 30 March, 201610 yr by Tilt

Grip it fixings are also ideal for hanging loads directly down from plasterboard in a stud wall. Ideally you want to spread the fixings or mount in such a way as to avoid excessive moments.

Another method I have seen to prevent pinching the plasterboard and squashing the cavity is to use a stiff spacer like a off cut of copper pipe between the fitting and brick. Long screws and conventional wall fixings with this is a Cheaper option than something like a gripfix specialist fixing.

I wouldn't use standard screws either. The resin fixings - maybe.

 

I have fitted kitchens for ten years and have seen a fair amount of screws shear when applying a high-ish torque.

 

Referring to the Op's scenario of a 30kg Tv hanging on a swing out bracket (so extra leverage) the problem with the copper pipe spacers would be the possibility / probability of 'sag', or movement, if you like. This would give the Tv's weight even more leverage to loosen it's fixings.

Edited 30 March, 201610 yr by Tilt

*The Op's Tv is probably twice the weight @ 50 inch. (just guessing).

Plastic plugs in the Op's scenario, :no: . Not for me anyway.

I think you will be very lucky to find them in the right place, and 30kg (for instance) is pretty heavy.

You takes your chances, but I would like to make sure it would not fall down..............Do you have kids or pets, with soft heads?

If you use plastic plugs get them to wear safety helmets.

The 'withdrawal load' of the fittings with the weight of the Tv & bracket combined, when the bracket is extended, would need to be upwards of 100kg to be reasonably safe. And I wouldn't want to be just reasonably safe. (I did watch the link and that was a plaster - not plasterboard - wall, but same equation).

I very much doubt it's twice the weight as my 37 & 47" TVs are very similar. There is, however, a big difference between a 32" I have in our spare room and my 37 on the wall in my bedroom.

I do agree that it is unlikely the horizontal batons between the vertical ones are in exactly the right place, but with the size of the unhinged wall bracket mount I'm fairly sure I can use the vertical ones, but of course will double check the information pack I got when I bought my house for the distance between them before mounting. This was the advice I've been given by several builders, including the home builders themselves.

Tv is only small, but ceiling fixed. Added an extra baton in the loft alongside original one to allow for the unbalanced weight.

Edited 30 March, 201610 yr by Tilt

I very much doubt it's twice the weight as my 37 & 47" TVs are very similar. There is, however, a big difference between a 32" I have in our spare room and my 37 on the wall in my bedroom.

I do agree that it is unlikely the horizontal batons between the vertical ones are in exactly the right place, but with the size of the unhinged wall bracket mount I'm fairly sure I can use the vertical ones, but of course will double check the information pack I got when I bought my house for the distance between them before mounting. This was the advice I've been given by several builders, including the home builders themselves.

As said, just guessing (the weight), but also as said, you takes your chances, maybe.

There is a big difference in weight to consider when using a swing out bracket, but yes, in your case with an unhinged bracket, if you can fix into the studs you should be fine, with the right fixings.

 

I am not trying to be Mr know it all, just trying to advise how to make sure the chap's (and anyone else's) Tv does not fall off the wall.

 

I have had no units fall off of the walls in the kitchens that I have fitted, and Ikea's wall units only had one screw per corner (utilising a keyhole lock), and the larger units are 600 x 920. (They may be different now).

 

How many of the builders Tv's have fallen off of the wall? Ok, we do not know but they may have. You ever seen 'cowboy builders'? and as for new home builders,  .

Anyone got any advice on things to avoid?

 

The bracket needs to tilt and turn, and the wall has block work A.N unspecified distance behind the plasterboard, because it's a dab external wall.

Any advice appreciated on mounting or on brackets for a 30KG 50" TV.

 

Thanks

 

Do you HAVE to wall mount it? A relative has just bought a large 55" (?) Panasonic TV with a purpose built stand which is awesome. It has the soundbar mounted just underneath the TV and has shelves for the Sky / DVD player. Would save some hassle and might look neater with the cables etc?!

Do you HAVE to wall mount it? A relative has just bought a large 55" (?) Panasonic TV with a purpose built stand which is awesome. It has the soundbar mounted just underneath the TV and has shelves for the Sky / DVD player. Would save some hassle and might look neater with the cables etc?!

 

It is 30kg.

 

The purpose built stand might be an option, so link if you have it would be nice.

I was going to run a wall trunk up also, although it may be that she'll accept a nice oak hi-fi stand instead. (Shame about me not being able to afford one of those in the not too distant future).

It is 30kg.

 

The purpose built stand might be an option, so link if you have it would be nice.

I was going to run a wall trunk up also, although it may be that she'll accept a nice oak hi-fi stand instead. (Shame about me not being able to afford one of those in the not too distant future).

With dot & dab you should be able to feed the cables behind the plasterboard.

 

Could make a really neat job.

It is 30kg.

The purpose built stand might be an option, so link if you have it would be nice.

I was going to run a wall trunk up also, although it may be that she'll accept a nice oak hi-fi stand instead. (Shame about me not being able to afford one of those in the not too distant future).

This is the stand, it's not cheap!! - http://www.johnlewis.com/off-the-wall-motion-tv-soundbar-stand-for-tvs-up-to-55-/p231604282?sku=231604282&kpid=231604282&s_kenid=72f763f3-e24e-4798-b34d-0cc2eaea2f21&s_kwcid=402x358338&tmad=c&tmcampid=73