I seem to remember getting a "we dont have any information about it" reply when I asked about it at my service.

As it didnt really affect my often back then I didnt really ask again but as I'm at the 160,000km mark now it starts to become more frequent.

Thanks guys,

 

My car is still under warranty from a Skoda dealership so hopefully they will just get on and do it.  I only asked them today but they always seem to pick and choose the jobs they can make money out of.  The TSR details would make them get on with it.  If I find it out, I will post it her.

Here.

Update: my car has been in and they said my software is up to date so there is nothing they can do on that front.  The party line......

 

They will have it in later to check it over as it is still in warranty.  It is a known problem with the 1.6 diesel according to them but surely it is the same technology in the 2l tdi?  We will see and if there is anything, I will put it on here.

So I had a 2.0 181 octavia diesel as a company car for 2 years which I gave back last week as I was changing job. I bought a low mileage 2014 66k miles Vrs tdi. Straight away I noticed after 2 weeks of ownership that the company car came programmed with a variable delay in ignition being turned and car starting(sometimes up to 3 or 4 seconds) compared to the vrs where it will just chuck away for these 3 - 4 seconds on random occasions.  I dont think skoda have found the problem, and have just tweaked the ECU to not initiate the starter to crank as quick when key being turned in ignition. 

 

Thinking is it possible to code this into my vrs as it doesnt look the best the random times it has happened to chuck away for 2-3 seconds after I've been praising it to work colleagues 😆

Reading this thread it makes me wonder if it is actually the glow plug module here at fault. Mine struggled to start as described on here then soon after I got the check engine light appear. It would be interesting to find out what the part number is for each car that has this issue. I know there are different relays fitted as there are multiple options for aftermarket modules. My part number is 04L907282

On my old mk3 vRS TDI it was as far as I understood it injector drift. It worked great for a few months after the 320F update then it returned.

 

Ive heard other people mentioning changing the battery helped / cured the issue, but it just seemed so random. Poor show.

 

I run a petrol now, no such issues. Maybe back to a plug in hybrid next.

On 12/11/2019 at 12:28, jordy_wd said:

There is a discussion on this on the TDICLUB forums:

 

https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=481340

 

This video on youtube shows it could be a problem with the camshaft adjuster for the variable valve timing. Revised part numbers are:

 

03L 109 096B - body with the solenoid valve
03L 906 455C - bolt/valve assembly

 

 

From reading that thread though, there could be a number of issues:

 

1. battery

2. lift pump

3. VVT adjuster

 

From the TDICLUB thread it seems the most likely cause is the in-tank lift pump.

 

EDIT: In this thread regarding a MK7 GTD, it was the lift pump CONTROL UNIT that caused the issue:

 

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/175756-2014-GTD-Cold-Starting-Issue?p=1096231#post1096231

 

Part number is 5Q0906121. Most recent one from 2016/2017 seems to be 5Q0906121N

 

It also appears to be easily replaced. This for a TSI petrol but the diesel one will be similar:

 

 

 

Hi,

 

Your post really helped me :)  thanks!

 

I have an A3 8VA 2014 with the 2.0 TDI CUNA motor ( EA288 ) 135kw Diesel. The same motor as the GTD or your Skodas VRS TDIs.

I had the long coldstart issue some times and the error code:

P0341 - Camshaft Pos.Sensor Circ. Range/Performance Intermittent

 

So I replaced the VVT control Valve and the Housing as in the Video you posted: "Vw golf 2.0TDI EA288 long crank diagnose P0341/P0016/P0011"  https://youtu.be/DXvHdmq0reA

 

Its quite easy, you just have to block the Camshaft in TDC as in the Video (you can use the VW recommended block pin T10492) and replace then both parts. In the video they remove the battery, in my case with the air filter housing was enough.

 

The issue should be solved, VW did a totally new  VVT control Valve and a totally new solenoid housing without any accumulator (you can appreciate that in the Youtube video from DiagnoseDan I did a screenshoot, in red the new versions).

 

 

03L 109 096B - body with the solenoid valve 118€
03L 906 455C - bolt/valve assembly 70€

 

Both with tax 227€

 

In the last week the car started just fine, we have around 15 to 10 C outside but my car even startet some times wrong in summer, hopefully this will remain this summer and the next winter. I will inform you in some months.

 

Regards!

 

 

 

 

Likewise mine has done it since new. Quite embarrassing at times and not dependent on weather. Dtuk box back on as the weather has been warmer and not had any start issues so far or engine management lights, limp mode from the box. Shame they are so crap in the cold. 

So I've noticed while on lockdown and car is not being used that this is more apparent.  Car is only used once a week at most, but their has been occasions that I have had to just move the car a few feet once or twice. Today especially, 1st move car fires up perfect, moved car to let housemate out, left car to run a few mins to charge battery while I rooted at stuff. Had to move car again later and when I went to start it, it chucked (full normal power - not low battery signs) and took a good 5 seconds before it would fire. Moved it and had to move it again tonight, same issue chucked away for 5seconds before firing. I'm stumped as what it could be...almost like theirs no fuel, and it's taking the 5seconds for the fuel to be pulled up to the engine...

Been suffering from this for about 12 months now once a month but recently more like once a week on my 66 plate 2017 TDi VRS 35k miles. Started 2 services ago nothing picked up during last dealer service though. Thought it might be battery related as havent used her as much during lockdown and WFH most days. But yesterday morning I got an orange emissions light pop up that wouldn't disappear. Got my mate (The Engine Whisperer) to plug in his box of tricks and pulled up a glow plug issue on cylinder 1 fault. He reset the light and it hasn't come back on, but the car was warm so will see what happens in the morning when I turn her over and will give Skoda a shout to get her checked out....

On 02/09/2020 at 22:41, Flobadob said:

Been suffering from this for about 12 months now once a month but recently more like once a week on my 66 plate 2017 TDi VRS 35k miles. Started 2 services ago nothing picked up during last dealer service though. Thought it might be battery related as havent used her as much during lockdown and WFH most days. But yesterday morning I got an orange emissions light pop up that wouldn't disappear. Got my mate (The Engine Whisperer) to plug in his box of tricks and pulled up a glow plug issue on cylinder 1 fault. He reset the light and it hasn't come back on, but the car was warm so will see what happens in the morning when I turn her over and will give Skoda a shout to get her checked out....

 

Hi! Did you find solution? I have Skoda Octavia III 2.0 TDI 184 PS, and still have problems with long cranking....One of the users on the other OctaviaRS forum says that you need to replace the fuel pressure valve on the pump (No. 0928400768). The defect of the valve is supposed to be mechanical and therefore does not cause errors ... What do you think?

Hi Tomas 

Apologies  for a delayed reply had Family Covid issues preventing me getting to a garage due to isolating. All ok now tho. 

The emissions light came back on after 4 starts as my mate predicted so I took my car to a local specialist last week and they diagnosed the error code as a faulty glow plug in cylinder 1. They replaced all 4 glow plugs and I noted on the bill that 1 glow plug was 4 times the price of 1 of the other 3. Apparently VAG engines have a Smart glow plug which was the one that had gone faulty.

Note

specialist charged £296 For diagnosis and replacement of glow plugs

Skoda stealers wanted £120 For diagnosis and £306 for replacement of glow plugs.

 

So far car has started cleanly without delay though as fault was intermittent I won’t know for sometime if it’s fixed the issue or not.

glow plug info

Standard:-

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/03l963319d

 

Smart - difference appears to have a pressure sensor

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/03l905061k

 

 

technical info:-

https://www.techtips.ie/BERU/all-about-glow-plugs.pdf

Cylinder 3 has the pressure sensor incorporated and is nearly £100 to buy.

On 21/09/2020 at 09:02, Flobadob said:

Hi Tomas 

Apologies  for a delayed reply had Family Covid issues preventing me getting to a garage due to isolating. All ok now tho. 

The emissions light came back on after 4 starts as my mate predicted so I took my car to a local specialist last week and they diagnosed the error code as a faulty glow plug in cylinder 1. They replaced all 4 glow plugs and I noted on the bill that 1 glow plug was 4 times the price of 1 of the other 3. Apparently VAG engines have a Smart glow plug which was the one that had gone faulty.

Note

specialist charged £296 For diagnosis and replacement of glow plugs

Skoda stealers wanted £120 For diagnosis and £306 for replacement of glow plugs.

 

So far car has started cleanly without delay though as fault was intermittent I won’t know for sometime if it’s fixed the issue or not.

I can now confirm the replacement glow plugs have not fixed the Intermittent slow starting Issue 😢. I’ve had 2 noticeable slow start ups last one being the longest I’ve experienced....

13 hours ago, Flobadob said:

I can now confirm the replacement glow plugs have not fixed the Intermittent slow starting Issue 😢. I’ve had 2 noticeable slow start ups last one being the longest I’ve experienced....

 

If possible, check or preferably replace the fuel pressure valve on the CR pump (No. 0928400768 - new no. Bosch 1462C00987 ). The defect of the valve is supposed to be mechanical and therefore does not cause errors...Maybe this will fix the problem

On 26/09/2020 at 08:33, Tomasz87 said:

 

If possible, check or preferably replace the fuel pressure valve on the CR pump (No. 0928400768 - new no. Bosch 1462C00987 ). The defect of the valve is supposed to be mechanical and therefore does not cause errors...Maybe this will fix the problem

Sorry to bump an old thread. Has anyone tried this and had success? 
 

I occasionally get a slow start and a longer than comfortable crank so have been looking into solutions. I have a MY15 VRs 184.
 

I also find that at idle the engine ‘seeks’ a little bit if you leave it and just listen. Sounds like a slight rev increase (without any indication of the revs moving on the instrument cluster) every few seconds, maybe a slight rev every 4/5 seconds. No idea what could be causing it but I don’t like it 🤔

 

Any help or direction would be great. 
 

Rob. 

Did any of You manage to deal with the problem of long crank? I have golf 7 1.6 tdi and been suffering from the problem for a few months. 

Link to the video how my engine starts

 

On 22/05/2022 at 08:26, radiator said:

Did any of You manage to deal with the problem of long crank? I have golf 7 1.6 tdi and been suffering from the problem for a few months. 

Link to the video how my engine starts

 

I wouldn’t say that was a long crank?l Not compared to what some of the lads on here are dealing with. Mine can occasionally crank for a good 5/8 seconds and then fire up. It’s never not fired up so it’s down the pecking order for me on jobs that I need to complete. Sorry I can’t be of any other use to you at the moment. 

Have a 2016 , VRS 2.0 TDI and i get this intermitant long start .. i would not say its a huge deal just enough to hesitate like is it gonna start ,, its not annoying me enough yet it does always start and runs fine .  but keeping an eye on this thread :-)

A smal update. I foud a guy and The Internet that suffered from the same problem. He's got audi with 2.0 tdi ea288 150 bhp. He sugested to replace -as you don't have any vcds  errors- non return valve for the fuel linepart number: 5q0127242b and says that maybe the fuel goes back to the tank hence longer crank. I'm gonna find possibly the newest used part and have it replaced. That long (sometimes longer from the one I posted) annoyes me and wanna do sth about it. So for future reference you are welcome to take the advice as future reference on diagnosing our engines.