Can I clone my hard drive to a new PC

[baz1]

Good evening. I have had my current PC for @ 4 years now so is probably due an upgrade as it is starting to run a bit slow at times. I have maxed out the memory at 4GB.

 

I remember when I changed previously I was able to clone the hard drive from the old (XP)to the new (Win7) PC which saved all the hassle of downloading programmes and setting everything up again from scratch.

 

I am told that Windows 10 does not allow this function, however there are still some PCs which can be bought with Windows 7. So would it be possible to clone the hard drive?

 

I was informed that it may be worthwhile buying an SSD hard drive and cloning the drive on to that which would speed up my current PC.

 

Hope this makes sense.

 

Ta

baz

 

 

[SuperbTWM]

It can cause all sorts of issues cloning hard disk so if you want to avoid problems and want it to run at its best I would start a fresh.

[Aspman]

I think MS does provide some sort of migration tool.

 

http://pcmoverfree.azurewebsites.net/

 

TBH Win7 should run fine on 4Gb ram. You might want to tidy up your current PC before spending money.

 

I recently bought an SSD for my PC and it came with a free license for Acronis True Image. I used that to clone my disk across but I wasn't upgrading operating system at that point.

Edited 27 April, 2016 by Aspman

[Ally_bassman]

I would 100 % start from fresh on on a new SSD or HDD.

 

Buy a HDD caddy so you can pop your old drive into it and then transfer your data off it onto your new PC then hide it somewhere safe as a backup.

[octyal]

you could even try just plugging your old HDD into the new system (if they are compatible) and let windows sort out the drivers (or download them first). Have just done this with the OH's laptop, swapped the drive from a 7 year old one to a 2 year old one - no hassles, windows update sorted the drivers out and it's running fine. Not the best solution, but enough for what she uses it for.

I have tried several bits of software (most of which only tell you when they have finished scanning that they will only do 1gb for example), none of which have worked that well in my experience. Start with a fresh install is usually best, just use a good backup system to keep sensitive files, then re install programs after.

[GentleGiant]

To get the best advice, you really need to give more info.

 

Slow downs can be caused by all sorts of things; but some of them are very easy to cure, and free.

 

 

Switch the PC off, open the case and check the insides for dust, especially in and around the cpu fan and heatsink, not doing this recently killed my sisters PC; it had been getting slower and slower as the cpu throttled back due to overheating cause by the dust blocking the cooling fins.

 

I use the hoover with the brush attachment, although a 1" paint brush will also do.

 

Run a few online anti virus and anti malware programs to check you havent got something nasty causing the issues.

 

A spring clean with CCleaner by Piriform* will help; set it to clear out old "HotFix" uninstallers as these can soon eat up all your hard drive space. - having less than 10% of hard drive space left will DRAMATICALLY SLOW your PC. * They have several other useful, free programs, I suggest you download and install Defraggler as well.

 

CCLeaner can also be used to disable unneeded programs in the "Start-up queue", and repair/compact the Registry. (Say yes when asked if you want a back up before the repair)

 

Keep the "Windows" folder as small as possible - dont use the "MY Documents", My Photos" etc folders, but create you own versions on your hard drive, and keep everything there.

 

Next, go to the control panel, select "System", "Advanced System settings", and "Performance", and "Advanced". In the "Virtual Memory box click "change". Assuming you have only the one hard drive (C:),  select "no paging file"; you will be prompted to reboot.

 

Next, reboot as the above asks, but interrupt the boot sequence and force the PC into "Safe mode" (there is a good reason for this - but it is technical)

 

When it has finished loading, run Defraggler and defrag the hard drive.

 

Go back to the page file settings again and select "custom sized" and enter 4096 for both the minimum and maximum size

 

(This sets a fixed size swap file, Windows dynamically changes its swap file size - causing fragmentation of the hard drive - it also set a size far, far too big, and this slows the PC down as - like the Windows folder - it is constantly scanning the area.

 

If you ever get a "System memory low" warning, just up the set size).

 

You can now reboot normally.

 

 

You should find your machine a fair bit faster.

 

There are a few other things you can do, like limit the size of the "Restore" folder, as it can get out of hand and eat up most of your hard drive space.

 

If all this hasnt been enough, look up your motherboard spec online, and see if it can take a faster cpu (it probably can); buying a 2nd hand cpu is fairly safe if you use a company that works with ex-lease computers, so you know the chip hasnt been over clocked; I have bought several via Amazon and AliExpress, and the only one that died was my own fault. Dont forget some heatsink compound, MX2 is fine - dont fall for all the hype about the expensive ones. You might want a better heatsink as well though.

 

As mentioned above, if you are going to spend money, an SSD for the operating system is a good idea, but ONLY use it for the operating system and program files - keep the swap file and data on the old hard drive.

 

 

[baz1]

you could even try just plugging your old HDD into the new system (if they are compatible) and let windows sort out the drivers (or download them first). Have just done this with the OH's laptop, swapped the drive from a 7 year old one to a 2 year old one - no hassles, windows update sorted the drivers out and it's running fine. Not the best solution, but enough for what she uses it for.

I have tried several bits of software (most of which only tell you when they have finished scanning that they will only do 1gb for example), none of which have worked that well in my experience. Start with a fresh install is usually best, just use a good backup system to keep sensitive files, then re install programs after.

I was advised that the Windows 7 was licenced to the PC it came with is that not the case?

[baz1]

To get the best advice, you really need to give more info.

 

Slow downs can be caused by all sorts of things; but some of them are very easy to cure, and free.

 

 

Switch the PC off, open the case and check the insides for dust, especially in and around the cpu fan and heatsink, not doing this recently killed my sisters PC; it had been getting slower and slower as the cpu throttled back due to overheating cause by the dust blocking the cooling fins.

 

I use the hoover with the brush attachment, although a 1" paint brush will also do.

 

Run a few online anti virus and anti malware programs to check you havent got something nasty causing the issues.

 

A spring clean with CCleaner by Piriform* will help; set it to clear out old "HotFix" uninstallers as these can soon eat up all your hard drive space. - having less than 10% of hard drive space left will DRAMATICALLY SLOW your PC. * They have several other useful, free programs, I suggest you download and install Defraggler as well.

 

CCLeaner can also be used to disable unneeded programs in the "Start-up queue", and repair/compact the Registry. (Say yes when asked if you want a back up before the repair)

 

Keep the "Windows" folder as small as possible - dont use the "MY Documents", My Photos" etc folders, but create you own versions on your hard drive, and keep everything there.

 

Next, go to the control panel, select "System", "Advanced System settings", and "Performance", and "Advanced". In the "Virtual Memory box click "change". Assuming you have only the one hard drive (C:),  select "no paging file"; you will be prompted to reboot.

 

Next, reboot as the above asks, but interrupt the boot sequence and force the PC into "Safe mode" (there is a good reason for this - but it is technical)

 

When it has finished loading, run Defraggler and defrag the hard drive.

 

Go back to the page file settings again and select "custom sized" and enter 4096 for both the minimum and maximum size

 

(This sets a fixed size swap file, Windows dynamically changes its swap file size - causing fragmentation of the hard drive - it also set a size far, far too big, and this slows the PC down as - like the Windows folder - it is constantly scanning the area.

 

If you ever get a "System memory low" warning, just up the set size).

 

You can now reboot normally.

 

 

You should find your machine a fair bit faster.

 

There are a few other things you can do, like limit the size of the "Restore" folder, as it can get out of hand and eat up most of your hard drive space.

 

If all this hasnt been enough, look up your motherboard spec online, and see if it can take a faster cpu (it probably can); buying a 2nd hand cpu is fairly safe if you use a company that works with ex-lease computers, so you know the chip hasnt been over clocked; I have bought several via Amazon and AliExpress, and the only one that died was my own fault. Dont forget some heatsink compound, MX2 is fine - dont fall for all the hype about the expensive ones. You might want a better heatsink as well though.

 

As mentioned above, if you are going to spend money, an SSD for the operating system is a good idea, but ONLY use it for the operating system and program files - keep the swap file and data on the old hard drive.

Will give it a go over the next week, thanks.

 

Baz

[GentleGiant]

I was advised that the Windows 7 was licenced to the PC it came with is that not the case?

 

The OS keeps a record of hardware changes, it will tolerate "x" amount (no one knows exactly how much), before it will decide it is unlicensed.

 

As examples, I have done mobo changes, CPU changes, GFX changes, RAM changes and DVD drive changes on various machines, and the one time I got an OS warning was swapping the DVD drive on an otherwise completely original machine.

 

Even then, you can usually re-register automatically online, or if that fails, by phone. The only time I have had a total failure was after reinstalling a Dell Win7 disk on a Dell PC after a HDD failure; the DELL didnt come with a disk, but I had another Dell OS disk from an identical spec machine; I got told by M$ that the Dell OS disks, licenses and hardware were tied together and you couldnt reinstall from one disk and use the license number from another.

 

I called BS and installed RemoveWAT.

[mac11irl]

CCleaner is fantastic..

you can also set it up to wipe the free space - takes longer, but it does help along with the other bits it can sort. Also, if you have lots of quick launch icons (beside the start menu button) these can slow things down too. Remove them via their right click menu.

[Macdemon]

Good evening. I have had my current PC for @ 4 years now so is probably due an upgrade as it is starting to run a bit slow at times. I have maxed out the memory at 4GB.

 

I remember when I changed previously I was able to clone the hard drive from the old (XP)to the new (Win7) PC which saved all the hassle of downloading programmes and setting everything up again from scratch.

 

I am told that Windows 10 does not allow this function, however there are still some PCs which can be bought with Windows 7. So would it be possible to clone the hard drive?

 

I was informed that it may be worthwhile buying an SSD hard drive and cloning the drive on to that which would speed up my current PC.

 

Hope this makes sense.

 

Ta

baz

 

Before any upgrade, have you saved all your important documents, files & programs and merely reformatted and reinstalled the operating system?

 

That can take a bit of time but will be a MUCH cheaper alternative, and could even be a bit of fun too while you learn things along the way.  :yes:

[swordstoke]

Unsure if this has already been mentioned but you could consider capturing your entire old hard drive(operating system and all progs/data etc) using a tool such as DISK2VHD. Once captured you can copy the VHD file created to new PC.

 

Does depend on Win10 version as only Win10Pro, Education and Enterprise (and if your PC Bios has the virtualisation feature)have what is termed as ' Hyper-V' Feature.( as far as I'm aware).

Essentially you mount the captured VHD(Old system) into the Hyper-V(virtual drive) on new PC and you can run your old PC as a separate entity within your new PC.

 

 

Links below explain the process far better than myself..

 

 

VHD Capturing tool

 

https://technet.microsoft.com/en-gb/sysinternals/ee656415.aspx

 

 

 

 

 

[baz1]

Thanks for the ideas , I'll try working through a few of them. Having read some reviews of the SSD I might try that route. The Samsung drives apparently come with cloning software which seems to work without too many glitches.

 

Baz

[BJB540]

Thanks for the ideas , I'll try working through a few of them. Having read some reviews of the SSD I might try that route. The Samsung drives apparently come with cloning software which seems to work without too many glitches.

 

Baz

Can always try acronis true for image. I use this a lot and it doubles as a backup solution and again can be used for disk cloning.

Edited 6 May, 2016 by BJB540

[Aspman]

Can always try acorn is true for image. I use this a lot and it doubles as a backup solution and again can be used for disk cloning.

 

Just repeating but Crucial drives come with this included sometimes. I got with with my Tb SSD anyway and it worked just fine to clone over the Tb spinning rust.

 

I'd double check it's there with smaller drives though, penny pinching might kick in at lower price points. I got the tb drive on an Amazon lightning deal for £150. Lots of SSDs on snap offers so keep eyes peeled on the offer sites.

Edited 6 May, 2016 by Aspman

[GentleGiant]

Acronis is great; not only for cloning, I use it instead of the crappy M$ system backup and restore service.

(Same as I use Defraggler instead of the M$ version as it is about a million times better and faster).

 

I havent had a HDD turn up with cloning software wince I bought my first SSD over 5 years ago, although I have seen a few advertised on Amazon as having some sort of disk cloning software, but then the price difference between these "Boxed Sets" and a bare drive means I buy the bare drive every time.