*sigh*

I could indeed fill in a web form and wait several days for a quote.

Or

I could ask someone who has had it done and get an answer pretty much immediately.

Is that OK with you?

*sigh*

I could indeed fill in a web form and wait several days for a quote.

Or

I could ask someone who has had it done and get an answer pretty much immediately.

I think standard price is around £350 inc VAT

They may have a dealer neared to you who uses their files, drop them an email and ask.

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by xpower

Many thanks. I'm concluding that a remap is a simpler choice once the warranty expires if the tuning box has to be plugged in under the car.

Many thanks. I'm concluding that a remap is a simpler choice once the warranty expires if the tuning box has to be plugged in under the car.

Also something you can't transfer to the next car, or even sell.

Thankyou for pointing out things I probably have worked out myself.

I'm starting to suspect you're associated with tuning box vendors.Either way, can you kindly go troll someone else please.

There's a good boy.

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by Mallettsmallett

Thankyou for pointing out things I probably have worked out myself.

I'm starting to suspect you're associated with tuning box vendors.Either way, can you kindly go troll someone else please.

There's a good boy.

Nope I have owned and run numerous car forums. I've never had a tuning box installed ever. Maybe brush up on forum etiquette and I'd have not troubled you.

Maybe brush up on forum etiquette and I'd have not troubled you.

Really ? Get a Fn life

Really ? Get a Fn life

Here comes the click department.

Trial and error is part and parcel of it, as every car and more importantly each driver is different.

 

Pedal box wise, from my own experience sport plus (middle of the 3 selection (2o of 3)) is really aggressive even on zero setting.

 

My advice is to switch it off, drive it stock then add the tuning box then try all 3 files on plus 1..

the thing i dont quite get is what each setting really alters so im left with pressing buttons and getting a feel without knowing if im doing any harm, ok if you know what your doing but not if your a complete novice like me

so in n00b language sport, sport plus and eco, what are there really changing and then the +3-3 whats that doing so i can feel more comfortable changing things a little

 

also the advice part you offered above, is that when im connecting the tuning box? maybe you can also offer advice what each prog is adjusting and then what the +3-3 is affecting, i dont want the power like an on/off switch just linear, in gear acceleration is what i need not 0-60 so is one prog better at that than the others for example, cheers

On 6/9/2016 at 19:40, KarlO3V5 said:

 

You ask and you will receive!

 

https://youtu.be/ImlpvgzfPro

 

Bit slower off the line as it really seemed to spin up on the second run. Still gives you a good idea of how it pulls. Enjoy and remember to link etc...

 

It's quick to 60, but anything above 15s to 100 is not, unless I completely misread the figures? My cupra 280 remapped to 512Nm could hit 100 in just under 12 according to a GPS phone app with speed triggers so pretty accurate considering. More importantly though, what was the "special" map 1 that you had flashed - I was reading in your youtube comments

 

On 6/12/2016 at 11:36, the mad monk said:

the thing i dont quite get is what each setting really alters so im left with pressing buttons and getting a feel without knowing if im doing any harm, ok if you know what your doing but not if your a complete novice like me

so in n00b language sport, sport plus and eco, what are there really changing and then the +3-3 whats that doing so i can feel more comfortable changing things a little

 

also the advice part you offered above, is that when im connecting the tuning box? maybe you can also offer advice what each prog is adjusting and then what the +3-3 is affecting, i dont want the power like an on/off switch just linear, in gear acceleration is what i need not 0-60 so is one prog better at that than the others for example, cheers

Good luck with finindg this out - it seems to be a piece if IP that buyers are sworn to secrecy upon purchase! I've scoured the web forums for hours and am still not totally clear what each of the three maps is designed to do, though the guy I bought mine from descrbed it as Map 2 all top end, Map3 all bottom end, and M1 was a bit dull being somewhere in the middle. Given Andrew has stated that all three map give roughly the same max power figures, I suspect that if the above is true, then max torque is lowest on Map 2 but at highest RMP (a good thing perhaps), Map 3 the opposite, a higher peak torque but lower in the RPM range. I've not really tried 3 as I get an odd fluttering on part throttle at around 150 - 2k rpm, but I can'ttell a huge difference between Maps 1 and 2. I've tried both, and 2 seems a bit more aggressive, and 1 seems a lot more ecoonomical, as in around 5mpg more so. The experimentation continues, but give it a couple of weeks and I'm going to send it back to DTUK to update the firmware and see if they can tweak map 1 for me. I'll have to pay for sure, but by then I'll have worked out of my car is OK with it, or is going to  throw codes and faults everytime.

Mine is actually winging it's way back to DTUK as I've nothing but issues with it recently - throwing up EMLs and just generally making it feel like poop. I've had it off for a couple of weeks and apart from being down on power it's been smooth as silk with not a warning light in sight.

 

If you're pulling 12's for 0-100mph that's frikken quick - looking at another video on youtube - standard you're looking in the 18's - so a couple of seconds slower than with the box.

 

** Edit - maybe even slower! for the standards one!

 

The map they put on it was a new map they were testing on the GTD Golf. I actually found that map 2+1 pulled much harder on the top end but it made it run like sh*te.  I'll see what happens when I get it back - I'll do some proper comparisons and maybe even do some roll races with a stock 184

Edited 14 November, 20178 yr by KarlO3V5

Karl, keep us posted! I'm going to back mine off to 1+1 for time being. It's quick, rather than blistering, but that's preferable to warning lights, or worse limp mode engaging just as you pull out to overtake! 

 

I'm presuming you are the same Karl that runs the hypermiler site? 

On 11/06/2016 at 20:41, Mallettsmallett said:

Many thanks. I'm concluding that a remap is a simpler choice once the warranty expires if the tuning box has to be plugged in under the car.

I don't understand the logic of waiting until the warranty expires? If you modify your car, and it explodes you pay, a lot. There's a slim chance you might get a warranty repair (I did), but if it's out of warranty you've got no recourse. Do it now while the engine is young and more capable of handling the extra forces. A three channel box is closer to reflashed ecu than you might think, I've had both and am pretty impressed with the former. 

can 2 channel box be changed to 3 channel or is it different?

26 minutes ago, toni8b said:

can 2 channel box be changed to 3 channel or is it different?

Have you asked DTUK? You'd not want to attach a 2 channel device to a three channel loom and hope it works.