Hi,

As the title says, I find both valid for this motor. Mine is produced 2016, in the brochure I see 340nm (manual). Some places in inet you can find often 320nm.

Not a big deal,just wanted to understand if there is an year of changes (maybe any other changes?)?

Someone shared files for EA288, if you can point me to technical files for this exact motor in O3. Veeery much appreciated

Thanks!

Edited 12 September, 20169 yr by fallenfbsd

Hmmm I wasn't aware of that change - mine is a 15 plate and is definitely 320Nm...well it was until DTUK fixed it anyway!

Hmmm I wasn't aware of that change - mine is a 15 plate and is definitely 320Nm...well it was until DTUK fixed it anyway!

What is the result?

What is the result?

200 Ps and 420 Nm - it's more than just numbers to me though, the whole car just feels so much better and more responsive.

On a run its around 5 mpg more efficient also - measured by filling up, not the computer.

Edited 13 September, 20169 yr by vtec to vrs!

200 Ps and 420 Nm - it's more than just numbers to me though, the whole car just feels so much better and more responsive.

On a run its around 5 mpg more efficient also - measured by filling up, not the computer.

Do you have compared it to vRS diesel?

Also does this tuning required new injectors or its just software?

Did you see any changes in the DPF behaviour, regenerations?

Do you have compared it to vRS diesel?

Also does this tuning required new injectors or its just software?

Did you see any changes in the DPF behaviour, regenerations?

Had a bit of a sport on with a GTD and was glued to it.

It's just a plug and play box, connects to 3 sensors (boost pressure, common fail fuel, cam position). Literally takes 5-10 minutes to fit. Because it's not physically altering your ECU software, it's also not traceable once removed.

DPF as it was before - it shouldn't affect it at all.

http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-skoda_octavia_iii-2.0-tdi-150-ps-cr-stage-2-(crd-t)

Well worth giving Andrew or Stuart a call at DTUK if you want any further info, but I've found the product and service to be top notch.

Do you have compared it to vRS diesel?

Also does this tuning required new injectors or its just software?

Did you see any changes in the DPF behaviour, regenerations?

 

VRS diesel 184PS and 380Nm. But they map to 220PS and 500Nm

Had a bit of a sport on with a GTD and was glued to it.

It's just a plug and play box, connects to 3 sensors (boost pressure, common fail fuel, cam position). Literally takes 5-10 minutes to fit. Because it's not physically altering your ECU software, it's also not traceable once removed.

DPF as it was before - it shouldn't affect it at all. http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-skoda_octavia_iii-2.0-tdi-150-ps-cr-stage-2-(crd-t)

Well worth giving Andrew or Stuart a call at DTUK if you want any further info, but I've found the product and service to be top notch.

I'm still not convinced by this untraceable part. I read a thread on another forum where someone had an issue with their RS3. Once plugged in, the dealer could see a whole host of historical performance information. I'd wager our Skodas are the same and that if your dealer went looking they may in fact be able to tell you've had something plugged in.

I'm still not convinced by this untraceable part. I read a thread on another forum where someone had an issue with their RS3. Once plugged in, the dealer could see a whole host of historical performance information. I'd wager our Skodas are the same and that if your dealer went looking they may in fact be able to tell you've had something plugged in.

I've heard bits and bobs like that before too, but they would have a hell of a job proving that it was anything to do with having a tuning box plugged in.

The system they have now (sort of tuning auto detect) will automatically flag a "TD1" when it's plugged in, showing that the parameters of the ECU have been changed and the vehicle is tuned. The tuning box does nothing to alter the ECU, but changes the signals being sent to the sensors after the ECU, so no flag is raised.

If the car is remapped, even reprogramming it back to standard will still show the TD1 flag.

I've heard bits and bobs like that before too, but they would have a hell of a job proving that it was anything to do with having a tuning box plugged in.

The system they have now (sort of tuning auto detect) will automatically flag a "TD1" when it's plugged in, showing that the parameters of the ECU have been changed and the vehicle is tuned. The tuning box does nothing to alter the ECU, but changes the signals being sent to the sensors after the ECU, so no flag is raised.

If the car is remapped, even reprogramming it back to standard will still show the TD1 flag.

itll be one of those things we'll never have the answer too until some poor sap takes his/her motor in for warranty work and the dealer says no because the ECU is reporting that something within the engine has recorded a higher than normal peak parameter. The risk you take though, I guess.

itll be one of those things we'll never have the answer too until some poor sap takes his/her motor in for warranty work and the dealer says no because the ECU is reporting that something within the engine has recorded a higher than normal peak parameter. The risk you take though, I guess.

Very true! I think in general, car companies are getting smarter by the year on the whole tuning thing - only a matter of time until we can't do anything to modify our cars at all.

Had a bit of a sport on with a GTD and was glued to it.

It's just a plug and play box, connects to 3 sensors (boost pressure, common fail fuel, cam position). Literally takes 5-10 minutes to fit. Because it's not physically altering your ECU software, it's also not traceable once removed.

DPF as it was before - it shouldn't affect it at all.

http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-skoda_octavia_iii-2.0-tdi-150-ps-cr-stage-2-(crd-t)

Well worth giving Andrew or Stuart a call at DTUK if you want any further info, but I've found the product and service to be top notch.

Make it 20 mins to fit, as you want to leave the battery unconnected for 10 mins to let all the computers/counters die before fitting the Tuning box.

Make it 20 mins to fit, as you want to leave the battery unconnected for 10 mins to let all the computers/counters die before fitting the Tuning box.

Why would you want to disconnect the battery? The instructions simply say to ensure you leave the ignition switched off for at least 10 minutes before altering connections.

Why would you want to disconnect the battery? The instructions simply say to ensure you leave the ignition switched off for at least 10 minutes before altering connections.

Errrrr.

How do you connect the power leads without disconnecting the battery ?

So why not just disconnect the battery for as long as the ignition should be off, it's called ' belt'n'braces'

Why would you want to disconnect the battery? The instructions simply say to ensure you leave the ignition switched off for at least 10 minutes before altering connections.

Errrrr.

How do you connect the power leads without disconnecting the battery ?

So why not just disconnect the battery for as long as the ignition should be off, it's called ' belt'n'braces'

No idea what tuning box you've got, but the DTUK CRD3+ takes it's power directly from the sensors - no connections to the battery.

I also don't fancy losing all my settings every time - radio presets, clock, TPMS etc. Why do belt and braces when it's entirely unnecessary and causes more complications than it fixes?

No idea what tuning box you've got, but the DTUK CRD3+ takes it's power directly from the sensors - no connections to the battery.

I also don't fancy losing all my settings every time - radio presets, clock, TPMS etc. Why do belt and braces when it's entirely unnecessary and causes more complications than it fixes?

TMWNA has a vRS petrol, so uses the FSR system - it has a separate power connection directly to the battery.