My belief is the lubrication when the oil gets into the high 90's and 100's degrees and the cooling of it again.

The software / engine management and how lean the engines can run with OEM mapping.

 

Yes the rings and scrappers can gum up.

This is why many like to get the engine hot, use higher octane fuel and an oil suitable for the way the engine is being used.

Good though that there has been enough experience of those using 1.8 & 2.0 TSI's in all different ways.

Then also those that have not had the issues when not using VW Group OEM parts and consumables they recommend.

 

Many do change oil and filters within the Fixed Service Interval recommendations, 

and others do high mileages and 10,000 mile changes might come up in around 6 months, 

and changing oil every 3 months is just another expense to running costs.

 

There are those that use their cars for Motorsport or Spirited Driving that might well change oil and filters very regularly and not do high mileages.

Again those doing lots of short trips, not much up to temp etc.

http://volkswagen.co.uk/owners/servicing/regimes

VW give the recommendations, and the oil recommendations.  They just seldom if ever admit to lemon engines they manufacture occasionally.

They are never very open about Fundamental flaws of Design, Manufacturing, Materials or Components or consumables.

If Injectors or Spark Plugs or even Coolant's are an issue it is not VW Group that tells you, it will be other owners likely.

Edited 27 October, 20187 yr by Offski

Your comments are very generic and really could apply to any car or engine manufacturer.

 

Don't understand what your saying about oil temperatures and not really interested as it seems very simplistic.

 

So I'm not going to continue further on this thread, as I've nothing further constructive to add.

 

Pistons you look for are those used at BZB engines, first generation of EA888 family, pins 21mm as you have at CDAA engine. No later engines from EA888 had pins of 21mm, all are 23mm since 6/2011...

Part number 06H107065BK.

Aftermarket parts are cheaper than VAG OEM, as example of good quality is KolbenSchmidt brand, piston 40 251 600, EAN 4028977685996.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/455678-engine-oil-over-consumption/?do=findComment&comment=5119956

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-and-20tsi-engine-failures/?do=findComment&comment=5017852

 

Well, what do you think about this recommendation for oil?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/419089-yeti-burning-oil-should-pistons-and-rods-be-replaced-as-well-as-piston-rings/?do=findComment&comment=4771837

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/433221-views-on-using-this-oil/?do=findComment&comment=4878820

 

 

Simplistic it is, the failures were simple enough to figure out for the 2nd biggest car manufacturer in the world,

all the gear and engineers at one time. 

They never bothered their back ends though.

 

I only mentioned the oil in asking why 0w 30 FS LL for the engines in question, euro 5 TSI's.   The Filter Change and all the rest is common sense.

The Long life oil can be an issue, or not.

 

It is usually enthusiasts that have to compile facts and theories and come up with suggestions because the Engine Manufacturers are tooled up 

have the engine lines and are admitting nothing until they have no choice but to as the warranty claims build up or a countries authorities or courts force them to.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/421365-links-to-lucifers-ultimate-guide-to-twincharger-engines

 

Edited 27 October, 20187 yr by Offski

That`s why there should be a classact, warranty or not. They are responsible. But who has the time or energy to pursue such a thing. That`s why they can continue to produce this crap. My Audi A6 had the cam chain issue. Known all over the world. Extremely costly for us saps who had to pay for it. Audi still denies everything concerning poor material in tensioners and so on. 

Like this kit?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Piston-Repair-Kit-40251600-Std-3-1-4in-Skoda-VW-Audi-Seat-1-8-TSI-/253632200602?ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Futm_source%3Dtwenga%26utm_param%3DeyJlcyI6MCwicyI6OTcyMDIzNywiY2kiOiIwMzUzNjFjMWVjYWFhZjgyMzBkZDI3NTg2ZWZiMjVjYSIsImkiOiI2NzQ5MDYxMTM0NDUwOTUxNjU3IiwidHMiOjE1NDA2NzIzMDMsInYiOjMsInNvIjoxNTAwLCJjIjo2MTMwMX0%3D%26utm_campaign%3Dtwenga%26utm_medium%3Dcpc%26ff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574631662%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338243305%26customid%3D035361c1ecaaaf8230dd27586efb25ca%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252F4x-Piston-Repair-Kit-40251600-Std-3-1-4in-Skoda-VW-Audi-Seat-1-8-TSI-%252F253632200602%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1719515606003%26rvr_ts%3Db739c34b1660a860f35479aafffe00ea&ul_noapp=true

Looks to me like those stupid little holes in the original oilring are missing

Edited 27 October, 20187 yr by Stratguy
Forgot info

Anyone know if it`s possible to take out the pistons on a 1.8 tsi cdaa 2010 without taking out the engine? I seem to remember reading somewhere that it`s difficult to take out the upper oilpan because it`s srewed on to the transmission. Don`t know what that means. Been searching for a good vid or other instructions but haven`t found any. 

Was thinking that it would be ”easier” to go from underneath, take off the top and push the pistons upwards. Suggestions?

Either engine or transmission must go out, because of two bottom bolts and complicated design of cranckshaft flange ...

 

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-cylinder_injection_engine_(1.8_and_2.0_l_engine_chain_drive)/engine_lubrication/sump_and_oil_pump/removing_and_installing_upper_part_of_sump/

 

Removing and installing upper part of sump

Removing

– Remove gearbox

– Remove oil pump

– Remove sealing flange on gearbox side

– Remove front part of right wheel housing liner

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-cylinder_injection_engine_(1.8_and_2.0_l_engine_chain_drive)/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/cylinder_block_on_gearbox_side/assembly_overview_sealing_flange_on_gearbox_side_and_dual-mass_flywheel/drive_plate/

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk6/power_unit/4-cylinder_injection_engine_(1.8_and_2.0_l_engine_chain_drive)/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/cylinder_block_on_gearbox_side/removing_and_installing_sealing_flange_on_gearbox_side/

 

Russian specialist, see many EA888 CDAB engines dismantled here

https://www.youtube.com/user/suslikrus/videos

 

Edited 12 November, 20187 yr by rayx

Super reply. Can`t thank you enough. Going to try a couple of probably futile attempts with diesel through the sparkplug holes, let it soke, turn the pistons a bit to try to get the diesel on to the oilrings. Few times then change oil again.  Again, probably wont work, then all that remains is get the pistons out. Have a couple of friends that are good mecanics. 

Was expecting my car to be fixed on Friday but when they put it back together they found a coolant leak. I collecting it tomorrow so fingers crossed they have cured the oil consumption problem.

Fingers crossed for you. Thinking of going this route. Not much difference cost wise, but I get a completely new engine. 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Audi-Skoda-1-8-2-0-TSI-Motor-CAWA-CAWB-CCZB-CCZA-CDNA-CDNC-CDAA-CDHB-CABD/123434752527?fits=Year%3A2010|Model%3ASuperb+II+Kombi|Type%3A1.8+TSI|Platform%3A3T5|Make%3ASkoda&hash=item1cbd48da0f:g:UHgAAOSwmEJa9T56

Do you know what pistons are fitted? The after market ones still rely on small drainage holes afaik

Just emailed them asking that exact question:-)

My german isn`t excelent but this one has other improved rings, same price.

More details of the job done. 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Austauschmotor-1-8-TSI-1-8-TFSI-Motor-uberholt-Stufe-1/183228693376?fits=Year%3A2010|Model%3ASuperb+II+Kombi|Type%3A1.8+TSI|Platform%3A3T5|Make%3ASkoda&hash=item2aa947fb80:g:FO8AAOSw1~JZN4xx

You want the latest pistons 06H107065DL

I think it says the pistons are modified and the rings are improved. They say that the oilburning problems will not come back. 

https://www.quora.com/In-which-of-the-solvent-water-kerosene-or-cooking-oil-Does-the-coal-powder-dissolve

Just looked this up. Apparently carbon cannot be dissolved so I don`t know how these flush agents can do what they say they do... 

 

Baking soda?

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2011/07/cleaning-cylinder-heads-and-blocks/

3 hours ago, Nuclear_Jules said:

You want the latest pistons 06H107065DL

In this case you need new conrods too as piston pins of DL are 23mm. If you go with pistons 06H107065BK, you stay with conrods you have, piston pin 21mm.

 

10 hours ago, Stratguy said:

https://www.quora.com/In-which-of-the-solvent-water-kerosene-or-cooking-oil-Does-the-coal-powder-dissolve

Just looked this up. Apparently carbon cannot be dissolved so I don`t know how these flush agents can do what they say they do... 

 

You can't dissolve it but you can break it down and flush it away.

Collected my car yesterday new timing chain, tensioner, con rods and pistons. I wait to see how much oil it’s going to use, the service manager is in leave so haven’t seen the paperwork yet.

Pray that it is fixed. 

Stratguy

 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Austauschmotor-1-8-TSI-1-8-TFSI-Motor-uberholt-Stufe-1/183228693376?fits=Year%3A2010|Model%3ASuperb+II+Kombi|Type%3A1.8+TSI|Platform%3A3T5|Make%3ASkoda&hash=item2aa947fb80:g:FO8AAOSw1~JZN4xx

 

Did you get a reply as to what has been done to prevent future excess oil use?

 

Thank you

M

 

Hi. 

It’s there on the page but in german. 

Lots has been done. A few things; special cleaning of the inside oil channels, honed cylinders, all chains and tensioners new, new improved  pistons, new improved pistonrings including and especially the oilrings, don’t know the term for work on the top basically to flatten it, valves cleaned and checked and lots more. Basically it’s a new engine. 

Here`s a link to their page. 

https://mikmotoren.com/epages/9f8bf2a5-457f-4b65-9467-4e86cde14066.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/9f8bf2a5-457f-4b65-9467-4e86cde14066/Products/CDAA/SubProducts/CDAA-0002