Guys / Girls

I've want to take my wheels of my 66plate VRS Estate in order to clean and seal them. I've read up on jacking the car up and people are keen not to use the spare wheel jack. I get that! I'll be buying a trolley jack for the job but what pads/ adaptors do people recommend in order to get the car up without damage etc.

I will not be cutting a hole into a hockey puck either. Where have people bought quality items from, did you get on alright?

Many thanks in advance for any help or suggestions

Tiffviz

I bought this and its a good quality trolley jack and it comes in a case.

http://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl2-2-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack?gclid=CKOU0ZnDsNECFU0aGwodYcMAHw

Theyy also sell the rubber pad for the jack, there is no jacking pad as such on the car, you have to jack it on the pinch weld, as per the manual. Watch out when you jack the car up, as it takes the underseal off if your not careful,

A bit of wood works for me.

I've previously modified some pads but as each has now split due to the knife effect, I've just used another unmodified one and it's been fine. Using a bare jack will cause underseal damage.

Guys / Girls

I've want to take my wheels of my 66plate VRS Estate in order to clean and seal them. I've read up on jacking the car up and people are keen not to use the spare wheel jack. I get that! I'll be buying a trolley jack for the job but what pads/ adaptors do people recommend in order to get the car up without damage etc.

I will not be cutting a hole into a hockey puck either. Where have people bought quality items from, did you get on alright?

Many thanks in advance for any help or suggestions

Tiffviz

I'm not being rude, but your post suggests you may be a novice at this game, so Please Be Careful.

Buy the best tools you can afford. "Buy cheap - Buy Twice".

If you're going to work on one wheel at a time then slide the spare wheel - if you have one else a large lump of wood - under while it sits on the jack. It's not nice trying to pick a car up when it's sitting on it's hub(s).

You have a 66 plate car so the wheels should pop right off, but alloy wheels stick to steel hubs and can take a Significant amount of brute force to remove from the hub. Not nice when the car is swinging around on the jack.

I'd get hold of some axle stands or some thick wood to rest the car happily while you play with the wheel(s).

I am indeed a novice so I'm looking for the best advice!! Thanks very much for the info so far. I aim to take the car up, remove the wheel, stick the spare on and lower it back to the floor whilst I set to work on each wheel.

Do most trolley jacks come with a pinch weld adaptor pad?

Tiffviz

I am indeed a novice so I'm looking for the best advice!! Thanks very much for the info so far. I aim to take the car up, remove the wheel, stick the spare on and lower it back to the floor whilst I set to work on each wheel.

Do most trolley jacks come with a pinch weld adaptor pad?

Tiffviz

Get some copper grease to smear around the hub to prevent galvanic corrosion (as previously mentioned) before refitting the wheel. Torque wrench would be best for tightening the bolts.

 

Not sure what you mean regards "pinch weld adaptor pad"?.........is this a quote from a jack for sale?!!

Get some copper grease to smear around the hub to prevent galvanic corrosion (as previously mentioned) before refitting the wheel. Torque wrench would be best for tightening the bolts.

 

Not sure what you mean regards "pinch weld adaptor pad"?.........is this a quote from a jack for sale?!!

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/351208-trolley-jacking-points/

This was the post that mentioned the 'pinch welds'. Thank you for advice on refitting the wheel.

Forgive the amateurish knowledge. Just don't want to damage the car and hoping someone can highlight all the right kit which has been tried and tested.

A bit of wood works for me.

 

+1

Even if you use the rubber protector on the jack, it still has a degloving effect on the underseal. I dont know if a hockey puck would be a better choice as it has a higher shore rating, i.e its harder and wont deform as much. Eather way if you buy some gray underseal to touch up if needed.

I have seen people buy audi jacking pads on some threads on this forum but i am still not sure its a good idea even though there MQB platform so in theory should be the same. I would be intersted to see how skoda do it.

Thin piece of wood, and Jack up on the subframe mounting point at the front and the trailing arm mount under the back door at the back.

No need to use the sill pinch weld and no damage.

Get some copper grease to smear around the hub to prevent galvanic corrosion (as previously mentioned) before refitting the wheel. Torque wrench would be best for tightening the bolts.

Not sure what you mean regards "pinch weld adaptor pad"?.........is this a quote from a jack for sale?!!

The pinch weld is the bottom of the sill where the factory jack sits on.

Some jacks have a rubber or plastic pad to grip the weld, but prevent damage.

Edited 7 January, 20179 yr by glosrich

+3 decent drift of wood 3 or 4" thick behind the seam works well. A jack puck ribber does little to help really. And hockey pucks need to be cut almost all way through and double thickness to get over the seam height.

The pinch weld is the bottom of the sill where the factory jack sits on.

Some jacks have a rubber or plastic pad to grip the weld, but prevent damage.

Ok cheers.

Personally I would never jack-up at sill unless using the tool-kit-jack in an emergency.

Thin piece of wood, and Jack up on the subframe mounting point at the front and the trailing arm mount under the back door at the back.

No need to use the sill pinch weld and no damage.

Are there pictures on the Internet that highlight these areas? I'd be keen to use them if I can identify them!

Tiffvizz

Edited 7 January, 20179 yr by Tiffviz

Are there pictures on the Internet that highlight these areas? I'd be keen to use them if I can identify them!

Tiffvizz

Common sense really, have a look underneath.

At the front you'll see a big bush and bolt under the driver's floor. Where the suspension is bolted to the body.

https://goo.gl/images/H9IV9E

At the back, under the back floor a big bolt where the suspension arm is mounted. Jack in front of that rubber bung.

https://goo.gl/images/mcfCou

Edited 7 January, 20179 yr by glosrich

Thank you all for your patient answers!!

OP,

 

See post #5, comment 1.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/398261-how-to-make-a-jack-pad-for-the-skoda/?hl=%2Bjack#entry4610917

 

In my opinion, no need for slots on the Mk3.

 

PS I change wheels twice a year, so whilst no expert, I do have some experience.

Edited 9 January, 20179 yr by susi

OP,

 

See post #5, comment 1.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/398261-how-to-make-a-jack-pad-for-the-skoda/?hl=%2Bjack#entry4610917

 

In my opinion, no need for slots on the Mk3.

 

PS I change wheels twice a year, so whilst no expert, I do have some experience.

 

 

In my  opinion, there IS a need for a slotted support. Using my trolley jack without some cushioning or grooved pad DID damage the vertical seam where the jack lifts.

 

The lifting surface on the folding jack supplied with the car does have a slot, but there is still a risk of damage by the hard metal surface againt the softer underbody sealant. I was removing my wheels to clean the insides and fit mudflaps, and after damaging one jacking point I used a small piece of old towel, about three layers thick, just enough to cushion but not enough to risk slippage (care needed!), when I did the other three.

In my  opinion, there IS a need for a slotted support. Using my trolley jack without some cushioning or grooved pad DID damage the vertical seam where the jack lifts.

 

The lifting surface on the folding jack supplied with the car does have a slot, but there is still a risk of damage by the hard metal surface againt the softer underbody sealant. I was removing my wheels to clean the insides and fit mudflaps, and after damaging one jacking point I used a small piece of old towel, about three layers thick, just enough to cushion but not enough to risk slippage (care needed!), when I did the other three.

 

To clarify, I'm not saying that there is no need for any padding of any sort. I use a thick rubber jack pad between the lifting cup on the jack and the seam.

 

What I'm saying is I don't think there is any need for a slot in the jack pad.

 

The webbed seam on the Mk3 is much stronger than the weak seam on the Mk2, which folded like tin foil if you tried to jack without using a slotted pad/puck.

Audi jack pads retro-fit & I have two 3tonne trolly jacks with a rubber pad & thick wodge of folder newspaper & a soild concrete floor............

 

No problems for the past 2yrs & I swap my wheels over for winter & never had any problems with my old Fabia either with similar set up.........(only one 2tonne jack then)

Just got this jack today from CostCo 

http://www.costco.co.uk/view/p/arcan-2000kg-aluminiumsteel-service-jack-model-hj2000eu-900930

 

As I used a friends jack on the weekend to clean & seal my alloy wheels & at this point I realised I needed a jack of my own (can't keep borrowing my mates jack) I was thinking to get the STS Engineering jack linked in post#2 but decided to get the Arcan from Costco as I've heard great reviews on the jack 

 

Also got this pinch weld jack rubber pad from ebay today

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-S3-8V-Tool-Jack-Pad-Adapter-Pinch-weld-rubber-pad-trolley-jacking-/272759583186?hash=item3f81bcf1d2:g:AZAAAOSweW5VfByB