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Petrol leaks 280ps

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Right I’ve replaced the canister, quite an easy job apart from half a field’s worth of mud hiding above the wheel arch liner. Still, at least it was bone dry so easy to remove (car hasn’t been out since it started raining). Now I will have to wait and see if the problem is solved. The new part has a slightly different part number from the old one, it has a D suffix ie 3Q0.201.801 D whereas the one I took off didn’t have the D. So presumably the D signifies that it is the modified part that was talked about, although externally they look identical.
 

Bit of getting off one of the “quick disconnect” pipes, (the irony!) and in the end I cut away the surrounding plastic on the old part, which is just there to protect the pipe connection. I think the important tip is to push up hard on the connector before /whilst pressing in the white bit and then pulling down. One connector had white push in bits on both sides  one just on one side for some reason.

Edited by nicknorman

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  • My $0.02 as an Aussie member... I definitely don't think its a hot weather thing - I have parked mine in 44C temps all day and not had any fuel leak issues (though you certainly get a large hiss when

  • The_Professor
    The_Professor

    Yes, this is the purge valve.  I can only assume that the valve was sticking, such that the canister wasn't being purged.  The result, I imagine, was the canister becoming saturated in fuel, when then

  • Colin170CR
    Colin170CR

    As previously mentioned earlier in this thread my 280 L&K went into an independent for a possible fuel leak investigation on 1st June. They have advised to replace the fuel evap canister but guess

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Oh well hey ho, just like @Ronskin, day 2 and check engine light on, evap control. So I located the N80 valve which is conveniently on top of the engine just under the plastic cover. I took it off and can blow through it, which I think is wrong, I think it should be closed when unpowered. So I’ll order a new one on Monday. You can get pattern ones on eBay/Amazon but it doesn’t look expensive so I might as well get the pukka part.

Edited by nicknorman

My engine warning light came up on the way home after the canister was replaced. 
Keep us posted.

 

After I adjusted that rubber seal around the filler cap 2 weeks is ago... Filled up (half tank and 3/4 tank) drove around, no smell anymore. 

 

Might be the outer seal that wasn't letting the cap seal itself properly. 

 

Previously at those sort of fuel level, definitely smell coming through. Rarely need a full tank as don't go long journey but next time it allows, will keep and eye/nose! out. 

N80 valve ordered from TPS, around £40 which is not too bad. Arriving tomorrow hopefully. One thing I have noticed is that previously, when I went to fill up and remove the petrol cap, there was always a hissing of air. But recently not. So perhaps it is the case that the absence of air hissing noises indicates a problem with the N80 valve and probably it would be better to replace that before replacing the charcoal canister. I'll soon find out if my hissing returns when I replace the valve!

Popped down to TPS as the part has arrived. In the TPS car park I opened the bonnet, removed the plastic engine cover, used pliers to remove the 2 hose clips on the valve, popped off the electrical connector and pulled the offending N80 valve off its mount. I can blow through the valve, which I shouldn’t be able to do. New valve out of the box - no I can’t blow through it. Pushed onto engine, 2 hoses attached, connector pushed in, plastic lid on, bonnet closed. Into the car plugged in VCDS to car and laptop, cleared fault code. Total time elapsed less than 5 minutes.

 

Maybe I am counting my chickens but the N80 valve was clearly faulty. I suggest that anyone else with these issues can carry out this simple test at home, remove the N80 valve and see if you can blow through it (gently!) when it’s disconnected. You shouldn’t be able to. Quite possibly I didn’t need to replace the evap canister, just this valve.

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Edited by nicknorman

Oh and the old part number was 06H.906.517 T. New part number was the same but with AE at the end instead of the T. Cost £38.47 including VAT

  • 3 months later...
On 23/08/2022 at 11:38, nicknorman said:

Oh and the old part number was 06H.906.517 T. New part number was the same but with AE at the end instead of the T. Cost £38.47 including VAT

And I guess it fixed the problem??

On 21/12/2022 at 10:15, numskull said:

And I guess it fixed the problem??


Well yes and no. No more overflowing, but I don’t think it’s quite right as I still don’t get the sucking noise I used to get on opening the filler cap. I have a feeling that I should have replaced the valve at the same time as I replaced the canister. As it was I replaced the canister first, then the valve a bit later. I have a feeling that the valve being permanently open might have caused fuel to be sucked into the new canister and saturated it. But I suppose as long as it doesn’t leak, that is the main thing. But then again we haven’t had any very hot weather since I replaced it…

Ahhh, so the noise of the air entering the tank when I open the cap is good, inasmuch as it shows the tank is sealed, which creates a vacuum as it empties? 

The tank is sealed as in if the vehicle is upside down fuel will not be coming out.

It is vented though and there is not a vacuum in there. 

8 hours ago, numskull said:

Ahhh, so the noise of the air entering the tank when I open the cap is good, inasmuch as it shows the tank is sealed, which creates a vacuum as it empties? 


Yes that was how my car behaved for the first 5 years or so. The air enters the tank because it is kept a bit below ambient pressure to ensure no vapour can escape.

7 hours ago, toot said:

The tank is sealed as in if the vehicle is upside down fuel will not be coming out.

It is vented though and there is not a vacuum in there. 

Well there was in mine. I only started having problems after the vacuum / air rushing in sound no longer happened.

Edited by nicknorman

  • 6 months later...

I think I have same issue. I have this strong fuel smell at RR door all the time after I drive.
I really didn't care for a long time but I start to get really low milage I think my good average
since refuelling is around 18mpg(uk). 

My car is having around 147k km. I haven't change fuel pump/filter since I bought it was having 117k km.

Today I tried to open fuel cap after I stop the car only for check the smell but I observe a fuel pressure there also
while I was driving Today I start to hear noises around RR door. 

I think I might have same issue but again I didn't observe any fuel leak until now.

Note: I never saw over 36mpg except highway with 100-90km/h driving. 

Edited by candasm

5 minutes ago, candasm said:

I think I have same issue. I have this strong fuel smell at RR door all the time after I drive.
I really didn't care for a long time but I start to get really low milage I think my good average
since refuelling is around 18mpg(uk). 

My car is having around 147k km. I haven't change fuel pump/filter since I bought it was having 117k km.

Today I tried to open fuel cap after I stop the car only for check the smell but I observe a fuel pressure there also
while I was driving Today I start to hear noises around RR door. 

I think I might have same issue but again I didn't observe any fuel leak until now.

Note: I never saw over 36mpg except highway with 100-90km/h driving. 


Check the N80 valve on top of the engine. It will just take 5 minutes!

On 30/06/2023 at 23:30, nicknorman said:


Check the N80 valve on top of the engine. It will just take 5 minutes!

I test it Today. It past the blow air test.  I can't blow air through it.

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