PCV Failure

[planehazza]

36 minutes ago, TheClient said:

The volkswagen extracts seem more complete. My vehicle is April 2011, revision H is fitted.

 

Your car is presumably earlier than that (i.e pre 13.06.2010) and has E fitted.

 

VW suggests E => AC => AH (most current)

 

And a different path for 14.06.2010 and later vehicles If I am following correctly...

 

H=> AD =>AJ (most current).

 

So, I guess if I was replacing in my car, I would go for AJ. For your car, based on earlier build and E fitted, AH.

 

Can there really be that much difference though? And how come the skoda Etka histroy doesn't appear to reconcile to what was fitted to cars, the VW one looks far more representative unless we both have replacement items fitted.

 

 

Yeah it's doing my head in.  TPS are adamant its AJ I need, and I cannot find anywhere that stocks AH.  I'm just going to get AJ and see how it goes.  :/

[planehazza]

12 hours ago, TheClient said:

The volkswagen extracts seem more complete. My vehicle is April 2011, revision H is fitted.

 

Your car is presumably earlier than that (i.e pre 13.06.2010) and has E fitted.

 

VW suggests E => AC => AH (most current)

 

And a different path for 14.06.2010 and later vehicles If I am following correctly...

 

H=> AD =>AJ (most current).

 

So, I guess if I was replacing in my car, I would go for AJ. For your car, based on earlier build and E fitted, AH.

 

Can there really be that much difference though? And how come the skoda Etka histroy doesn't appear to reconcile to what was fitted to cars, the VW one looks far more representative unless we both have replacement items fitted.

 

 

Yeah I don't get it either. Everywhere I speak to, part store wise, are saying AJ, as it's newer than AH. I can't find anywhere that sells Ah, but I might try again today and hope for a different sales person. Might try euro car parts, although their website doesn't suggest they stock it. 

[TheClient]

IF AH is not available for order, (is it actually discontinued? - The impression I got from those ETKA extracts is AH is still current along side AJ), then you will have to go with AJ.

 

I doubt you'll have any luck with ECP, they don't stock genuine parts do they? And even though the PCV assembly will be made by someone else, I've never seen equivalent items to genuine (for this PCV)   listed under OEM spec brands.

Edited 18 May, 2017 by TheClient

[planehazza]

Right, so I've messed up it seems.  I rang TPS up again and started the conversation differently.  Instead of saying "I need oil separator/PCV Valve, what part number do you have?" (to which they originally replied with AJ), I asked if they had 06H-103-495-AH in and yes they do; and they've got one on the shelf too.  It's more expensive than AJ though; my indy was doing me a favour getting it exVat at £67 for me.  TPS have said £78 and that's most likely without VAT which will take it to ~£94 for me.

 

Really frustrating; it's an easy fault to diagnose and fix, but £100 for a split diaphragm? VW are evil geniuses, no doubt about it...

 

My girlfriend and parents keep saying that I should get rid of this car as it's always costing money, but it's always stupid things.  If it's not a split PCV diaphragm, it's a monkey over tightening the sump pan bolt requiring a replacement pan.  If it's not that, it's carbon buildup wrecking the IM runners. It's all stupid, silly things that could have been avoided but have cost me dearly :(

[rayx]

14 hours ago, TheClient said:

Can there really be that much difference though? And how come the skoda Etka histroy doesn't appear to reconcile to what was fitted to cars, the VW one looks far more representative unless we both have replacement items fitted.

It is alway so, all depends what each brand wants too keep in history when updating data at ETKA. Therefore sometimes you get more details only for one brand at VAG concern. Well, when you ask people from VAG, they tell you, that even when you look at parts for same engine code or simmilar in diferent brands, they can differ as there can be diferent software coding and parts design. But it´s only story for outsiders ...

 

So sometimes is good to check info across ETKA and you can get more complex view. When you pop in dealer, they never do so, they strictly check according brand/model.

 

I know AH is available at VAG dealers, their OEM supplier is HENGST, I would never buy different part as from VAICO etc, that means this part I would buy only at VAG dealer, either Skoda, VW or others.

 

The main difference is updated H, AD, AJ have additional one way valve, which allows to suck oil vapors directly from under the cylinder head cover area, E, AC, AH suck only vapors from coarse oil separator mounted on block underneath water pupm. And there is surely a difference at vacuum they produce/keep at crankcase. Check web for photos or let your dealer show you both parts.

[planehazza]

2 minutes ago, rayx said:

It is alway so, all depends what each brand wants too keep in history when updating data at ETKA. Therefore sometimes you get more details only for one brand at VAG concern. Well, when you ask people from VAG, they tell you, that even when you look at parts for same engine code or simmilar in diferent brands, they can differ as there can be diferent software coding and parts design. But it´s only story for outsiders ...

 

So sometimes is good to check info across ETKA and you can get more complex view. When you pop in dealer, they never do so, they strictly check according brand/model.

 

I know AH is available at VAG dealers, their OEM supplier is HENGST, I would never buy different part as from VAICO etc, that means this part I would buy only at VAG dealer, either Skoda, VW or others.

 

The main difference is updated H, AD, AJ have additional one way valve, which allows to suck oil vapors directly from under the cylinder head cover area, E, AC, AH suck only vapors from coarse oil separator mounted on block underneath water pupm. And there is surely a difference at vacuum they produce/keep at crankcase. Check web for photos or let your dealer show you both parts.

 

I wondered that as there appears to be an extra part on the AJ that isn't on the E/AH.  Ah well, fingers crossed I'll have the 100% right part (AH) tonight  Going to be a long bus ride(s) ~15miles from work to the nearest TPS though...

[TheClient]

18 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

My girlfriend and parents keep saying that I should get rid of this car as it's always costing money, but it's always stupid things.  If it's not a split PCV diaphragm, it's a monkey over tightening the sump pan bolt requiring a replacement pan.  If it's not that, it's carbon buildup wrecking the IM runners. It's all stupid, silly things that could have been avoided but have cost me dearly :(

 

You do seem to have had a multitude of the common and some annoying and quite expensive time consuming vulnerabilities to deal with. I think my wife would be pushing me in a certain direction if I was under the car that much or it was in the shop that much.  Maybe you got a Friday afternoon one, maybe it is from poor quality / incomplete fixes / or poor oil choice combined with the EA888 vulnerabilities.  Whatever is the cause, they are annoyances and must be adding up £££.

 

Even when I bought mine, at 5years old, 32k miles. I immediately spent £630 on chain and tensioner. Then when I added it up doing all the outstanding maintenance (parts only - i did the work) - discs, rotors, fuel, air, pollen filters, plugs, DSG service, central locking switch, new mats and rear cargo tray liner, sound deadener under bonnet, bolts for caliper carriers, wheel alignment, brake fluid change, new front and rear badges due to white worm, turbo wastegate clip. Somehow all the maintenance parts came to about £1,000 including probably £150-200 in a few specialist tools like long hex sockets, spline set, extra long breaker bar, pressure bleeder etc.  So the £10.2k car became more like £12k.

 

Luckily for me, that is where the jobs stopped and I've only done regular servicing since then, if it started to escalate significantly. I'd have to assess the situation.

Edited 18 May, 2017 by TheClient

[rayx]

Well, let us know when you mount new separator on engine how it works. If you had a chance with your indy to measure vacuum on idle (through oil dip stick) it could be informative for all.

 

You can see, that ETKA shows different parts across brands, and as there is no additional request to update ECU, I truly believe AH should be better option for you. If you get any other opinion from anyone, please share it too with us.

 

Yet concerning oils, Castrol you found on ebay is another one, it has ACEA C3, I believe better would be one with only A3/B4. There is many opinion why, take it only as advice.

Edited 18 May, 2017 by rayx

[planehazza]

6 minutes ago, TheClient said:

 

You do seem to have had a multitude of the common and some annoying and quite expensive time consuming vulnerabilities to deal with. I think my wife would be pushing me in a certain direction if I was under the car that much or it was in the shop that much.  Maybe you got a Friday afternoon one, maybe it is from poor quality / incomplete fixes / or poor oil choice combined with the EA888 vulnerabilities.  Whatever is the cause, they are annoyances and must be adding up £££.

 

Even when I bought mine, at 5years old, 32k miles. I immediately spent £630 on chain and tensioner. Then when I added it up doing all the outstanding maintenance (parts only - i did the work) - discs, rotors, fuel, air, pollen filters, plugs, DSG service, central locking switch, new mats and rear cargo tray liner, sound deadener under bonnet, bolts for caliper carriers, wheel alignment, new front and rear badges due to white worm, turbo wastegate clip. Somehow all the maintenance parts came to about £1,000 including probably £150 in a few specialist tools like long hex sockets, spline set, extra long breaker bar etc.  So the £10.2k car became more like £12k.

 

Luckily for me, that is where the jobs stopped and I've only done regular servicing since then, if it started to escalate significantly. I'd have to assess the situation.

 

It's all about a balance I guess.  You spent £10k plus a few fixes; I spent £6900 + a few more fixes and miles ha.  Mine is very low spec though, so a lot of my expense has been MFSW (~£300 with the controller) and B12 kit, coming in at ~£1100 fitted once all the drop links, bolts, mounts etc. were added.  Car still drives fine though, apart from an annoying subtle surging and hesitation (I remember you helping me try to solve that) which I'm now thinking were early signs of wear in the PCV.  Fingers crossed the new PCV will fix that!  

 

4 minutes ago, rayx said:

Well, let us know when you mount new separator on engine how it works. If you had a chance with your indy to measure vacuum on idle (through oil dip stick) it could be informative for all.

 

You can see, that ETKA shows different parts across brands, and as there is no additional request to update ECU, I truly believe AH should be better option for you. If you get any other opinion from anyone, please share it too with us.

 

Yet concerning oils, Castrol you found on ebay is another one, it has ACEA C3, I believe better would be one with only A3/B4. There is many opinion why, take it only as advice.

 

I'm fitting the part myself, but I could probably pop along to my indy after I've fitted it and ask them to measure it.  Unless I can do it myself with VCDS?

Edited 18 May, 2017 by planehazza

[Breezy_Pete]

22 minutes ago, planehazza said:

Really frustrating; it's an easy fault to diagnose and fix, but £100 for a split diaphragm? VW are evil geniuses, no doubt about it...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Separator-PCV-Valve-Maintenance-Set-For-VW-Golf-GTI-Passat-AUDI-Seat-/182511160635?hash=item2a7e834d3b:g:wOgAAOSwzgBY32CO  ??

[planehazza]

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Separator-PCV-Valve-Maintenance-Set-For-VW-Golf-GTI-Passat-AUDI-Seat-/182511160635?hash=item2a7e834d3b:g:wOgAAOSwzgBY32CO  ??

 

I saw them, but it'd take too long to arrive and I'm not convinced of the quality/compatibility etc.

[TheClient]

10 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

It's all about a balance I guess.  You spent £10k plus a few fixes; I spent £6900 + a few more fixes and miles ha.  Mine is very low spec though, so a lot of my expense has been MFSW (~£300 with the controller) and B12 kit, coming in at ~£1100 fitted once all the drop links, bolts, mounts etc. were added.  Car still drives fine though, apart from an annoying subtle surging and hesitation (I remember you helping me try to solve that) which I'm now thinking were early signs of wear in the PCV.  Fingers crossed the new PCV will fix that!  

Yes, balanced!  It took me ages to find the right spec inc DSG and in an estate.  A lower spec one I could of picked up sooner and probably nearer £8k and travelled less, likely it would still need the tensioner (possibly similar maintenance as well) and then i'd need to fit all the options, front / rear pdc, auto lights / tint / MFSW, MDI etc. Probably would of worked out a little cheaper if I was able to do the retro fits, though a lot more time consuming.

 

Hope it sorts it out too.

 

Edit: The B12kit is at least an upgrade - I would like that, but not in budget presently!

Edited 18 May, 2017 by TheClient

[TheClient]

4 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

I saw them, but it'd take too long to arrive and I'm not convinced of the quality/compatibility etc.

It would be an option for a quick cheap fix maybe but what about the rest of the assembly condition and any changes to design.  I think if you are keeping the car you have to fit an up to date assembly.

[Breezy_Pete]

13 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

I saw them, but it'd take too long to arrive and I'm not convinced of the quality/compatibility etc.

If it were me, I'd repair the original diaphragm with a bike inner tube repair patch, order one of these kits and see how it goes.  Actually, thinking about temperatures and oil/steam environment, probably not a good idea.  I'd trawl round scrapyards looking for an intact one instead.

The quality of the original VAG one clearly wasn't epic.

Edited 18 May, 2017 by Wino

[rayx]

6 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Separator-PCV-Valve-Maintenance-Set-For-VW-Golf-GTI-Passat-AUDI-Seat-/182511160635?hash=item2a7e834d3b:g:wOgAAOSwzgBY32CO  ??

It´s sad they can copy today everything ... Yes, original membrane made from Effbe http://www.effbe-diaphragm.com/en/ I wonder if this is the same. Do not forget about spring tension and the fact, that inside of that part, the cyclon separator get very dirty after many miles driven.

 

Not sure about price, sometimes original parts cost bit less at VAG dealer than at independent.

[planehazza]

15 minutes ago, Wino said:

If it were me, I'd repair the original diaphragm with a bike inner tube repair patch, order one of these kits and see how it goes.  Actually, thinking about temperatures and oil/steam environment, probably not a good idea.  I'd trawl round scrapyards looking for an intact one instead.

The quality of the original VAG one clearly wasn't epic.

 

Honestly, I thought about it, but if that repair failed, you can guarantee the loose part is going to get sucked into the IM etc.  The part is 78k miles old so I may as well replace it.  Like everything, it's just well overpriced.

 

8 minutes ago, rayx said:

It´s sad they can copy today everything ... Yes, original membrane made from Effbe http://www.effbe-diaphragm.com/en/ I wonder if this is the same. Do not forget about spring tension and the fact, that inside of that part, the cyclon separator get very dirty after many miles driven.

 

Not sure about price, sometimes original parts cost bit less at VAG dealer than at independent.

 

I'll give the local VW parts branch a shout. They might be cheaper still.

Edited 18 May, 2017 by planehazza

[planehazza]

Fitted and sorted. 

[planehazza]

Thanks for the help all   Do I need to do anything with the ECU (reset it?), aside from clearing any codes?

[TheClient]

Wouldn't have thought there is any coding or config as it is mechanical anyway.  Does it drive any different? Are you seeing any codes from the occasional hesitation / miss issue before or after the PCV replacement? 

[planehazza]

Just now, TheClient said:

Wouldn't have thought there is any coding or config as it is mechanical anyway.  Does it drive any different? Are you seeing any codes from the occasional hesitation / miss issue before or after the PCV replacement? 

 

Haven't been able to check as the laptop the I use has died.  I'll get another one set up and check.

[rayx]

TheClient is right, no need to do anything else, just clear the memory when possible, not critical to rush. So you got AH from TPS?

[planehazza]

1 hour ago, rayx said:

TheClient is right, no need to do anything else, just clear the memory when possible, not critical to rush. So you got AH from TPS?

Yup, £77

[2stroke]

Wife has a  ( 2012 ) Octavia-II with EA888-II TSI  engine.
The car works incredibly well, but drinks a lot of oil.
( I only put 100% fully synthetic oil 5w-40 in it. )
Was thinking of changing the PCV-valve to see if it gets a little better,
but it comes in 2 different versions that are apparently not interchangeable.
The latest updated version of the PCV-valve are apparently available in 2 different models from VAG-dealers with 2 different part numbers !  😵
Even my SKODA dealer didn't know the difference and which one I should have

🤔 Anyone here know what physically separates the 2 different PCV-valves for this engine ? 🤔

🤔 Anything else that is good to replace at the same time as replacing the PCV-valve ? 🤔

#  06H 103 495 AH
#  06H 103 495 AJ