Rear view camera retrofitted to SII L&K

[Gazdok]

I have finished retrofitting a RVC High to our SII estate. It was a project with long planning and the parts gathering dust on the shelf for almost a year. Had a few days off and did not want to rush it.

I tried to read as much as I could on the net and used Bronken and Lutz's video ( Briskoda or Youtube) as a guide but modified my installation a bit.

The parts I used were:

Boot handle RVC 5N0827566AB - Passat
RVC controller 7N0907441 - Sharan

Cable from Columbus to RVC STG high and TV-Tuner - T26 to 2x T54 plugs: 7N1971327b

Fakra Z lead from RVC STG to camera - I bought a 2m lead, but 3m would be easier.

 

My plan was to get the old TV-Tuner to Columbus cable out of the existing cable loom complete and replace it with the new Columbus to RVC STG high to TV-Tuner cable.

 

I started by removing the trim in the boot, boot cover, shelf trim, D-pillar trim and rear seat to door trim. Remove the hooks in the boot and the torx screws underneath. Hooks need to be pushed in and lifted up. Remove the trim on the D-pillar - just pull. It is held by 4 clips. Then remove the 2 torx holding the shelf. Then remove the cushion trim between rear seat and door - look in Lutz's video. You need to remove to M10 bolt under the rear seat for this. Then another torx is revealed for the shelf.

Then you will start to see the existing cable loom to the TV-Tuner. Next you need to lift the plastic trim in the rear door and the trim in the front door up to the foot well and the right hand cover on the dash. For some of this it useful to have special trim removal tools rather than brute screw drivers. I took the driver's seat off because the loom runs right underneath the seat and the high cable loom contains 8 wires and a coax. I did not just want to push them somewhere under the carpet.

More pictures in the next post as I hit the upload limit. You can see that Skoda did actually do a very neat job when they laid the cable. The sockets are for the electric seat. When you rip the plastic trims up just take a minute and check whether all the metal V-shape clips have come up with them. Sometimes they get stuck in their repective holes and need to be peeled out.

[Gazdok]

I took the driver's seat off to get to the cable loom. The seat is held with 4 large Torx. To get to the loom you have to remove the phone controller and unclip the driver's seat electrics.

I did not manage to peel the old cable out of the wiring loom completely because the loom disappears behind the dashboard through what looks like a bulkhead trim. So I cut the old cable - 1x coax, Can H, Can L, 12v and earth in the driver's foot well with enough length to rejoin the new one onto it.

I now went to the Columbus and removed the trim around it, 4 Torx scres holding it and I also took the controls for the air conditioning out to have more room.

Now I prepared the new loom. I taped the wires to each controller together to have them neat for easy routing. The white 2-core has to go into the tailgate together with the Fakra coax cable.

The narrowest / tightest part in the loom is where it slings under the ventilation duct under the driver's seat, so I started to feed the T26 plug with the coax and the 8 fine wires forward under the duct and separated the coax and 8 wires under the dashboard. The T26 goes through the dashboard to the Columbus, the other wires can be joined onto the old Can H, Can L, and 12v / earth just under the dashboard. Can High or/purple, Can Low or/brown, earth brown and 2x permanent 12V (RVC STG red white, TV-Tuner red yellow). You do not have to tap into Can on the Columbus as some instructions tell you.

I routed the 2x T54 plugs for the RVC / Tv-Tuner along the existing wiring loom through the boot trim into the TV-Tuner bracket.

Now I took the tailgate trim off. Remove the torx on the boot close handle and pull the plastic off. Be careful where it attaches onto the upper trim. The upper plastic trim is held with 2 plastic clips where it attaches onto the lower part. Remove them and the gently pull the upper trim off starting at the upper brake light. Make sure all metal clips have come out.

Then slip the rubber boot connecting the tailgate and roof off the plastic holder at both ends and loosen the plastic brackets - see Lutz video. When I fed the Fakra cable through the boot I removed the plastic connector from the cable. This makes it a lot easier to feed it through. Put the plastic connector on again afterwards.

Remove the boot release handle. Mine was just clipped in.

Now you have to start to destroy your car!!!

The VW handle is bigger than the Skoda handleif you are going for a RVC high. There are some low ones that have the same size as Skoda's. Measure twice cut once.

Paint rust primer onto the metal. Fit the RVC handle. Connect it - 3 connectors - and route your new wires along existing. Connect the RVC STG, connect the TV-Tuner, Connect the Columbus.

Code the car: STG 10 and STG 19 - see Lutz's video and check that it works. You can calibrate the RVC later.

Put everything back together. If you did remove the old wire tape your new into the loom, if you have left the old one in just tape the new one neat around the loom.

RVC

RVC STG and TV-Tuner

Columbus TV

Columbus RVC

Total £160 plus my time.

Our Skoda dealer would not this as a Superb does not come with any documentation for the fitting.

[Gazdok]

Calibration done.

It had to be done with the calibration grid, otherwise the RVC STG would simply return an error message.

I printed the grid as a poster and pieced the sheets together.

Put the car into reverse gear with the camera on.

Connect VCDS - easier than VCP, select 6C, select 10, and follow the steps #1 to #3 (confirm).

With VCDS you can then follow the progress of calibration in adv measuring blocks, channel 130, box 3. Mine told me calibration in progress which was nice to read.

The pictures show the grid, the RVC display before and after calibration. The car or camera di not move between the last 2 pictures.

 

[Lutz]

Thumbs up! Brilliant work. Nice, that my video was in some stages as a useful hint. Next I dry to find time and do the 8 parking sensors upgrade to PLA 2.0 (hopefully I'll make retrofit video as well).

 

Lutz

[silver1011]

Nice job, you should post it in the Superb Technical Guides section to avoid it disappearing off the page in here...

 

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/174-skoda-superb-guides/

[superbdreams]

I had often wondered if the reversing camera could use the video output cable from the tv unit on the L&K... clearly not. 

A lot of work and a very nice post. well done

[craigandrew]

On 06/06/2017 at 18:44, Gazdok said:

Calibration done.

It had to be done with the calibration grid, otherwise the RVC STG would simply return an error message.

I printed the grid as a poster and pieced the sheets together.

Put the car into reverse gear with the camera on.

Connect VCDS - easier than VCP, select 6C, select 10, and follow the steps #1 to #3 (confirm).

With VCDS you can then follow the progress of calibration in adv measuring blocks, channel 130, box 3. Mine told me calibration in progress which was nice to read.

The pictures show the grid, the RVC display before and after calibration. The car or camera di not move between the last 2 pictures.

 

can you just compleatley remove the tv tunner as it is rubbish and put the cable from the control box into the rns510 

Edited 12 November, 2018 by craigandrew
add pic

[craigandrew]

On 06/06/2017 at 18:44, Gazdok said:

Calibration done.

It had to be done with the calibration grid, otherwise the RVC STG would simply return an error message.

I printed the grid as a poster and pieced the sheets together.

Put the car into reverse gear with the camera on.

Connect VCDS - easier than VCP, select 6C, select 10, and follow the steps #1 to #3 (confirm).

With VCDS you can then follow the progress of calibration in adv measuring blocks, channel 130, box 3. Mine told me calibration in progress which was nice to read.

The pictures show the grid, the RVC display before and after calibration. The car or camera di not move between the last 2 pictures.

 

can you just compleatley remove the tv tunner as it is rubbish and put the cable from the control box into the rns510 

Edited 12 November, 2018 by craigandrew

[craigandrew]

did you make this lead up that go;s from the tv tunner to the headunt rns510

[Gazdok]

The lead for TV Tuner + RFK High: 7N1971327b. You buy this from VAG.

 

If you do not have or do not want to use the TV tuner any more you use : RFK HIGH: 7N1 971 327.

I guess it is different from 7N1971327b, but I can not tell you the pin outs.

A Columbus / RNS510 happily runs a camera instead of TV tuner, i.e. you can ditch the TV.

The link below shows the setup in the car.

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/ra/sharan/sha/2016-689/9/971-972070/#1

[craigandrew]

15 hours ago, Gazdok said:

The lead for TV Tuner + RFK High: 7N1971327b. You buy this from VAG.

 

If you do not have or do not want to use the TV tuner any more you use : RFK HIGH: 7N1 971 327.

I guess it is different from 7N1971327b, but I can not tell you the pin outs.

A Columbus / RNS510 happily runs a camera instead of TV tuner, i.e. you can ditch the TV.

The link below shows the setup in the car.

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/ra/sharan/sha/2016-689/9/971-972070/#1

so will this kit in the link do the job,

https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/skoda/oem-rvc-rear-view-highline-camera/?tpl=product_detail

[Gazdok]

This should do the job. Just follow the instructions or route the cable your own way. You have to cut out the tail gate for the larger boot handle. I think I paid half that price though.

[craigandrew]

12 hours ago, Gazdok said:

This should do the job. Just follow the instructions or route the cable your own way. You have to cut out the tail gate for the larger boot handle. I think I paid half that price though.

do you have a link to the web site you brought it from ,

as the above company on there returns page if it was wrong want a 20% restocking charge , plus return postage,

 

can i use the cable from the tv tunner to the headunit , intstead of pull another cable through from fro to the back

 

 

Edited 14 November, 2018 by craigandrew

[Gazdok]

Except for the TV tuner and camera lead I bought my parts separately on EBAY. It was used but o.k.

I have seen the pin outs when I was looking for my loom and I think the pinouts were different for the RFK HIGH 7N1971327 and the TV tuner loom 7N1971327b.

The part numbers are different...

You still need a Fakra Z lead from the camera to the controller and the camera needs a power supply - white leads on my picture with the loom on the floor.

[craigandrew]

4 hours ago, Gazdok said:

Except for the TV tuner and camera lead I bought my parts separately on EBAY. It was used but o.k.

I have seen the pin outs when I was looking for my loom and I think the pinouts were different for the RFK HIGH 7N1971327 and the TV tuner loom 7N1971327b.

The part numbers are different...

You still need a Fakra Z lead from the camera to the controller and the camera needs a power supply - white leads on my picture with the loom on the floor.

Yes the tv tunner box I'm taking out and want to replace with the top box

In the picture witch I assuming is running the camera. But I sent see a part number or what they call it.

The tailgate camera/boot release I can find on eBay or alliexpress.

I'm told that a vw tiguan will fit, but will check again, 

[Gazdok]

The RVC controller PN I used is at the top. You can use Tiguan, Passat...

Edited 14 November, 2018 by Gazdok

[craigandrew]

2 hours ago, Gazdok said:

The RVC controller PN I used is at the top. You can use Tiguan, Passat...

how about this in link from alliexpress,

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OE-VW-Tiguan-Original-RGB-Reversing-Video-Camera-Cable-Control-Module-For-RNS510-RCD510-5ND-827/32683665601.html

Edited 14 November, 2018 by craigandrew

[Gazdok]

It looks o.k. PNs are correct.

[craigandrew]

13 hours ago, Gazdok said:

It looks o.k. PNs are correct.

orderd 

just need to make a clamp or find a octavia/vw metal housing to clamp down,

[octimark]

2 hours ago, craigandrew said:

orderd 

just need to make a clamp or find a octavia/vw metal housing to clamp down,

 

Let me know how you get on. Would love to retrofit it on mine.

[craigandrew]

53 minutes ago, octimark said:

 

Let me know how you get on. Would love to retrofit it on mine.

I have done it on a octavia mk2 floor vrs but this is a bit more evolved I think. 

Will keep you posted.

[Gazdok]

The handle will fit without the bracket. It has small plastic "hooks". Make sure you rust proof the cutout in the tailgate and then use a thin film of silicone.

[craigandrew]

On 14/11/2018 at 20:55, Gazdok said:

It looks o.k. PNs are correct.

Well it's arrived just need to fit it

Now. 

One problem. 

It's freezing outside ❄❄❄

[craigandrew]

On 04/06/2017 at 00:24, Gazdok said:

I took the driver's seat off to get to the cable loom. The seat is held with 4 large Torx. To get to the loom you have to remove the phone controller and unclip the driver's seat electrics.

I did not manage to peel the old cable out of the wiring loom completely because the loom disappears behind the dashboard through what looks like a bulkhead trim. So I cut the old cable - 1x coax, Can H, Can L, 12v and earth in the driver's foot well with enough length to rejoin the new one onto it.

I now went to the Columbus and removed the trim around it, 4 Torx scres holding it and I also took the controls for the air conditioning out to have more room.

Now I prepared the new loom. I taped the wires to each controller together to have them neat for easy routing. The white 2-core has to go into the tailgate together with the Fakra coax cable.

The narrowest / tightest part in the loom is where it slings under the ventilation duct under the driver's seat, so I started to feed the T26 plug with the coax and the 8 fine wires forward under the duct and separated the coax and 8 wires under the dashboard. The T26 goes through the dashboard to the Columbus, the other wires can be joined onto the old Can H, Can L, and 12v / earth just under the dashboard. Can High or/purple, Can Low or/brown, earth brown and 2x permanent 12V (RVC STG red white, TV-Tuner red yellow). You do not have to tap into Can on the Columbus as some instructions tell you.

I routed the 2x T54 plugs for the RVC / Tv-Tuner along the existing wiring loom through the boot trim into the TV-Tuner bracket.

Now I took the tailgate trim off. Remove the torx on the boot close handle and pull the plastic off. Be careful where it attaches onto the upper trim. The upper plastic trim is held with 2 plastic clips where it attaches onto the lower part. Remove them and the gently pull the upper trim off starting at the upper brake light. Make sure all metal clips have come out.

Then slip the rubber boot connecting the tailgate and roof off the plastic holder at both ends and loosen the plastic brackets - see Lutz video. When I fed the Fakra cable through the boot I removed the plastic connector from the cable. This makes it a lot easier to feed it through. Put the plastic connector on again afterwards.

Remove the boot release handle. Mine was just clipped in.

Now you have to start to destroy your car!!!

The VW handle is bigger than the Skoda handleif you are going for a RVC high. There are some low ones that have the same size as Skoda's. Measure twice cut once.

Paint rust primer onto the metal. Fit the RVC handle. Connect it - 3 connectors - and route your new wires along existing. Connect the RVC STG, connect the TV-Tuner, Connect the Columbus.

Code the car: STG 10 and STG 19 - see Lutz's video and check that it works. You can calibrate the RVC later.

Put everything back together. If you did remove the old wire tape your new into the loom, if you have left the old one in just tape the new one neat around the loom.

RVC

RVC STG and TV-Tuner

Columbus TV

Columbus RVC

Total £160 plus my time.

Our Skoda dealer would not this as a Superb does not come with any documentation for the fitting.

on picture belowe +Bat?? .R/W .is that short for rear washwipe??,

?? Br , what dose that stand for, sorry just oldage setting in,

 

could you not simply wire batt + to reversing light and batt br to earth. or am i being thick ,

[26DIPP]

R/W - Red / White.

You want a switched 12V. That is the power supply to the controller. If you only power the controller up when the car is in reverse the gateway will be throwing up errors all the time because it cannot contact the controller. I tapped into it in the A-pillar.