Suddenly driving home tonight my steering has developed a funny fault... when steering left or right it's like the steering has seized then frees up again it's as if it's fighting back and something is holding the wheels. When turning slowly or stationary it's fine, quick movements it's really stiff then frees up again however it's almost trying to keep the wheel straight very hard to explain? Any one come across this fault before?

Might be the steering angle sensor. Best to get it scanned for fault codes.

Scanned and no codes came up! Where is the steering angle sensor located? 

It's in the rack just near where the column joins to it.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 17 July, 20178 yr by TMB

Lovey thanks. Does the Sensor replicate this type of fault then? No error code on dash one minute was fine the next stiff, when moved quickly, slowly it's alright but can't always turn the wheel slowly! 

Could low fluid cause this issue too? 

Could also be a battery/charging system problem. Fast rate of (steering wheel) turn causes very high current surges to the PAS pump. If the electric supply can't keep up the assistance won't be there. Measure voltage across battery terminals before and after starting the engine to investigate this possibility.

The sensor could cause it but it could also be several other things. Firstly I'd check the fluid and go from there.

Thankyou will investigate this further tomorrow. Was meant to be getting the bloody thing mapped tomorrow aswell! Gutting 

I would double check your fluid levels - it's a pain to do but I had an issue with my rack 2 years ago. The seals failed and dumped the fluid into the arm gaiters. we only noticed the leak when the gaiters split and dropped the fluid.

 

If the seals have gone then your looking at a new rack (or a reburbished one).

Oh terrific.... so check fluid? Had no issues with it at all until last night 

@JaamesVRS - I'd suggest that too, because it's the cheapest of the possible failures to fix.

 

Then have the battery checked for "heavy load discharge", because that's cheap and easy too.

 

Next, steering angle sensor on VCDS.

 

Finally, it may actually be the rack hydraulic seals, but we're now talking several hundred pounds to supply and install an exchange rack rather than about £8 a litre for PAS fluid.

I would do the work myself so it's purely parts opposed to parts/labour. I have no starting issues with the car, or does that not matter? Could still be battery? What would I need just a normal battery test from Halfords etc? 

I think you would be seeing other symptoms if this was 'just' a battery issue. However, one free and easy test of the charging system is to turn the ignition on to the point where all the self-test dash lights come on; does the battery light illuminate?

@JaamesVRS - Do you have the equipment for the deep load test? Most DIYers don't, and my preferred rapid fit place won't charge for it on condition that they get the business if you need a new battery.

 

@Wino - I see where you're coming from, but I'm thinking deep load, and that will only show on start up (maybe), heavy lock and possibly using the HRW (which probably won't happen in July?)

4 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@JaamesVRS - Do you have the equipment for the deep load test? Most DIYers don't, and my preferred rapid fit place won't charge for it on condition that they get the business if you need a new battery.

 

@Wino - I see where you're coming from, but I'm thinking deep load, and that will only show on start up (maybe), heavy lock and possibly using the HRW (which probably won't happen in July?)

 

I used to work at halfrauds back in the day, the Yuasa tester they have is pretty decent to be honest! That tells you about the condition of the battery and what's failed etc but as I used to work there they will let me use the tester free of charge  

 

i will check @Wino if it doesn't I assume it's a battery issue? Bought some fluid today on the off chance its low, save having to take it apart twice! 

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by JaamesVRS

No, if the battery light doesn't come on with ignition there's a blue wire that will be broken near a connector on a bracket in front of the gearbox. Very common fault, especially on the diesels, resulting in unreliable start-up of charging by the alternator.

 

See this link and one within it:

 

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by Wino

@JaamesVRS - You had me at "access to a Yuasa tester". I'd agree with @Wino that if the battery light isn't coming on at switch on and staying on until the engine fires then one or both of the alternator control wires are broken or disconnected, which is another cheap to free check.

All fixed guys.... after stripping half the engine bay down to get to the poxy PAS res.. turned out fluid was low and needed topping up, all sorted! Car also got remapped today, good fun 

 

thanks to to those that helped! 

Loss of fluid means you have a leaking seal somewhere, hopefully a slow leak.

Do check for battery light action anyway, even if irrelevant to this issue.

10 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

All fixed guys.... after stripping half the engine bay down to get to the poxy PAS res.. turned out fluid was low and needed topping up, all sorted! Car also got remapped today, good fun 

 

thanks to to those that helped! 

 

That's the worst outcome since it means a rack seal has failed.

Sorry forgot to mention. Battery light all works as it should I did think that must be a leak somewhere. Leaking rack isn't too expensive just imagine a pain to change! Will have to keep my eye on fluid. Slick 50 that I was sold was meant to stop leaks, let's see if it works... 

14 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

Slick 50 that I was sold was meant to stop leaks, let's see if it works... 

 

Not so much...

59 minutes ago, JaamesVRS said:

 Slick 50 that I was sold was meant to stop leaks, let's see if it works... 

Who TF told you that!!? It was originally made as a friction reducer for engines, and Gerard Sauer reckoned that it probably worked as such based on an empirical test using a mechanical fuel injection engine, and achieving a 300rpm rise in tickover speed.

Yeah that's the oil addictive. They also make a power steering fluid. Says on the bottle it's a stop leak aswell. Worth a try if nothing else etc; worse case I'll need a new rack outcome is the same either way I guess