Evening all, For the last couple of weeks the wee beastie has been displaying a new symptom in that occasionally I cannot open the NSR rear door. Neither exterior or interior handle works but after locking/unlocking the car a few times I can open the door (trial and error). This evening however only one rear door was usable

 

Sounds like it may be a known problem. I've read about bowden cables and faulty deadlocks but can anybody offer some clues as where I should look first?

 

 

Edited 18 July, 20178 yr by garibaldy

Happened to me once

try unlocking and locking the car a few times manually through the key hole, this worked for me

@garibaldy - Is there evidence that the solenoid on that door is trying to fire?

14 hours ago, greenineboss said:

Happened to me once

try unlocking and locking the car a few times manually through the key hole, this worked for me

Just tried this but no luck

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

@garibaldy - Is there evidence that the solenoid on that door is trying to fire?

Something is making a sound from the door for sure, but it didn't sound healthy initially. Rather than two distinct and solid noises from the other doors, the NSR was initially more like a grinding noise. I managed to get the door open but then locked it again as it's on a public road.

 

I've just been back out to the car and now the noise from inside the NSR door sounds the same as the others. However it will not open.

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by garibaldy

@garibaldy - Well, if the solenoid is trying to fire, I'd think it's either weak, or getting a low current. Either way, your investigation path starts in that door, and isn't in the driver's door for once.

After further investigation (ear against door skin this time) I'd say the solenoid isn't firing. There isn't anywhere near as much mechanical sound compared to the passenger rear door.

 

Also just sat inside the car using the keyfob to lock/unlock repeatedly and the lack of noise from the lock area of the NSR door is obvious.

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by garibaldy

Have a little look at the wiring in the door bellow to ensure they are not snapped or snapping!

44 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

@garibaldy - Well, if the solenoid is trying to fire, I'd think it's either weak, or getting a low current. Either way, your investigation path starts in that door, and isn't in the driver's door for once.

 

The lazy tong riveter will be having another outing me thinks.

If i do manage to get the door open, is there anyway of disabling it's lock? At least if i get it open it will be easier to work on.

On thinking of my reply... Its only actually practical if you get the door open! I think that you could intentionally disconnect the central looking to that door on discovering which wire it takes. 

 

Try opening the front, feeling around the rear bellow and squeezing/manipulating it a little, as you try unlocking again. Mine is a MK2 but the bellow is accessible from the front door and the locks open/lock with the front door open. This MIGHT get the door open for you to investigate further!

 

P.S. Not Garibaldi 'cos your name is Gary and you are folliculy   challenged, are you?  (Another Gary, with a "High" forehead)!

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by mrgf

If i can get the door open I will be checking it out :-)

 

Garibaldi was a nickname whilst growing up! Surname is Baldwin and some clever git at a school must have had posh parents who liked fancy biscuits so that's one of the names that stuck. Garibaldy is more fitting these days

Nice one! My surname is FEAR... Yep, you read that right. Got a fair bit of stick as a schoolboy but suddenly became cool around the punk era!

1 hour ago, mrgf said:

Nice one! My surname is FEAR...

 

That's cool

I had to do this recently, it was a ******, if you manage to get the door open you can remove the lock and disable the deadlock so you can refit the lock to shut the door but you won't be able to lock it.

 

The lock module is faulty, you must replace it, don't bother faffing about, just fit a new one.

 

If you can't get the door open then you'll have to remove the door card, the card will come off as long as you remove the rear seat squab, I had to attack the lock mechanism with a hammer and cold chisel to expose the gear so I could turn it to disengage the deadlock.

 

Not funny. You should have replaced it weeks ago when it started playing up but you could still open the door!

Always wanted a 3-door 6Y

 

Gotta smile as this car's keeping me busy, busy, busy.........Would be nice to have a break as she appears to be throwing me quite a few challenges!!!

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by garibaldy

Yep very cool surname!

 

forgot to quote.....

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by garibaldy

4 hours ago, mrgf said:

Nice one! My surname is FEAR... Yep, you read that right. Got a fair bit of stick as a schoolboy but suddenly became cool around the punk era!

 

Yes, very cool surname!!!

I worked with a young lady one summer (1987?) whose surname was Wildblood.  Awesome surname.

Wonder what she's doing now.

Edited 19 July, 20178 yr by Wino

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

I had to do this recently, it was a ******, if you manage to get the door open you can remove the lock and disable the deadlock so you can refit the lock to shut the door but you won't be able to lock it.

 

The lock module is faulty, you must replace it, don't bother faffing about, just fit a new one.

 

If you can't get the door open then you'll have to remove the door card, the card will come off as long as you remove the rear seat squab, I had to attack the lock mechanism with a hammer and cold chisel to expose the gear so I could turn it to disengage the deadlock.

 

Not funny. You should have replaced it weeks ago when it started playing up but you could still open the door!

 

I've started looking for a new module.

 

defintately a case od 'could've, should've, would've......'

Is this an MoT failure?

Yup.

 

It's why I had to do mine.

Can anybody confirm the correct part number(s) for NSR lock on a 6Y? I think it might be 6Y0839015.

 

Is the MK2 version compatible - looks like the only difference is a red v white plastic for the lock pin (which I dont have).

 

 

I'm seeing an A on the end of that number here: http://www.realoem.me/Skoda/CZ/FAB/2006/453/R/8/839/839000

 

cool thanks mate.