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Boot central locking?


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Since getting my car second-hand, my central locking has never worked on the boot mechanism.
The key locks and unlocks it fine and you can hear the motor mechanism pushing in and out, but the remote does nothing and neither does unlocking with the driver's door or the internal switch. All other doors are fine and work as they should.

 

Over the weekend we had a crack at tracing the problem, disassembling and testing the following bits in the boot:

 

  • Three-position toggle switch for the lock cylinder - Confirmed through continuity testing on multimeter.
  • Boot open/closed sensor switch - Confirmed through RossTech and dashboard MFD warning.
  • Lock motor - Confirmed through running voltage through it to operate it.
  • Wiring - Continuity tested from plug end in boot, through to wiring just inside headlining in front of boot.
  • Physical mechanism - All components free of rust, correctly operating and properly lubricated.

 

Now, while fiddling with stuff and looking at other things that don't work - namely the driver's door 'puddle' light and "headlights on" warning sound - we did have a crack at the old driver convenience unit microswitch and found that to be a bit defective. It's started working intermittently now, but there's a new one in the post anyway.


So, I'm now wondering...

1/. Does the boot lock have a Valet mode or some other kind of magical electronic 'programming' where I have to hold the key in some position or other to reactivate the central locking?

2/. Is the boot central locking tied to that convenience microswitch in some way?

3/. Is there something else I have missed, or could try?

 

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I had both the exact same issues as you ! For the puddle light etc buy a new drivers door lock mechanism off eBay. About £25. Easy DIY job. There is a "how to" to repair the microswitch but much easier to just change the whole thing. 

 

As for the boot mine was the same. What I found was if you look at it with the boot trim off, the way it works is, the locking actuator moves a lever either to or away from the handle that opens the boot. So, locked, the lever is away and the handle has nothing to actuate on and unlocked,  the lever moves in line with the handle and you can open the boot (this was for estate). I think I replaced the boot lock mechanism as It was all one piece. The central locking actuator is a seperate piece. 

 

Hope  that helps.  

Edited by VrsMule
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46 minutes ago, VrsMule said:

I had both the exact same issues as you ! For the puddle light etc buy a new drivers door lock mechanism off eBay. About £25. Easy DIY job. There is a "how to" to repair the microswitch but much easier to just change the whole thing. 

 

As for the boot mine was the same. What I found was if you look at it with the boot trim off, the way it works is, the locking actuator moves a lever either to or away from the handle that opens the boot. So, locked, the lever is away and the handle has nothing to actuate on and unlocked,  the lever moves in line with the handle and you can open the boot (this was for estate). I think I replaced the boot lock mechanism as It was all one piece. The central locking actuator is a seperate piece. 

 

Hope  that helps.  

TBH, replacing the microswitch is so cheap and easy - Two wires to solder and a switch to screw in place. I'll have to strip everything down to get the mechanism out, so it's no bother.

 

Still stuck on the boot central lock, though.

The physical mechanism is fine, all levers are good, etc. It's just that the motor/actuator thing doesn't operate off the remote - I don't know if it's a faulty sensor, broken wiring somewhere further inside the car, or what... every component itself seems perfectly fine.

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36 minutes ago, VrsMule said:

I may have a spare actuator you can have for free if you want ?

I appreciate the offer, but the actuator on its own works fine. We had it off, passed current through it and it operated perfectly. Same for the open/closed switch (my MFD beeps up and tells me the boot is open) and the lock cylinder position switch (continuity tested).

 

 

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  • 3 years later...
On 18/08/2017 at 18:17, Ttaskmaster said:

I appreciate the offer, but the actuator on its own works fine. We had it off, passed current through it and it operated perfectly. Same for the open/closed switch (my MFD beeps up and tells me the boot is open) and the lock cylinder position switch (continuity tested).

 

 

 

Did you ever get this sorted? I'm in a similar boat right now.

 

Boot won't lock or unlock with the fob. All components tested and seem to work, plus power in the wires is there when pressing the fob. 

 

The boot lights didn't work either but I soon discovered the cause for that.

 

12v wire joined to the two light wires and 4th wire to the door open/shut microswitch. All corroded to bits in their plastic coffin. Stripped that apart and fiddled the wires together again and have working lights again!

 

I'm at a loss on the central boot locking though.

 

IMG20210405130024.jpg

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38 minutes ago, Octyvrs03 said:

Boot won't lock or unlock with the fob.

What do your mean? The plip doesn't work but the key does, or the plip works but the key doesn't?

 

I've an idea if the plip doesn't work...

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^^  i'm with Ken on this one, I would be inclined to look for broken wires in the corrogated boot where it passes into the main bodyshell up by the tailgate hinges.

 

Do a continuity check, as the witing could look intact on the outside insulation, but the internal strands may have broken and have been un-noticed.

 

 

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20 hours ago, Octyvrs03 said:

 

Did you ever get this sorted? I'm in a similar boat right now.

 

I did not and no longer have the time to mess about ripping everything apart. Just resigned to using the key like it was still the 1980s.

Do let me know if you ever figure yours out, though...

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On 14/08/2017 at 17:13, Ttaskmaster said:

Now, while fiddling with stuff and looking at other things that don't work - namely the driver's door 'puddle' light and "headlights on" warning sound

I had tried this when my central locking for boot wasn't working......try swapping the control module in the driver's door for a known working one.....from what I figure it is the one responsible to signal the CCM ( situated in the dash ) to open/close the actuator in the boot at the press of the key.....if your drivers door puddle is not working chances are your boot central locking will also not work.....btw does your power window on the driver's side work?

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23 hours ago, srane4213 said:

I had tried this when my central locking for boot wasn't working......try swapping the control module in the driver's door for a known working one.....from what I figure it is the one responsible to signal the CCM ( situated in the dash ) to open/close the actuator in the boot at the press of the key.....if your drivers door puddle is not working chances are your boot central locking will also not work.....btw does your power window on the driver's side work?

Power window works fine.

Puddle light microswitch was replaced with a new one.

Even the connectors to the boot mechanism showed good continuity.

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10 minutes ago, Ttaskmaster said:

Power window works fine.

Puddle light microswitch was replaced with a new one.

Even the connectors to the boot mechanism showed good continuity.

does the puddle lamp work in drivers door? Also when you pen the drivers door, the door open lamp comes on in the cluster?

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On 05/04/2021 at 16:14, KenONeill said:

I suspect the wiring in either the driver's door, it's jamb, or in the boot/tailgate.

 

Think I've got to the bottom of it. 

 

Managed to get these connection blocks apart. Couldnt do it before as I didn't know how to remove them from the plastic holder. Turns out they just slide out with a bit of persuasion.

The pink and black blocks are mostly fine, needed a little clean. I'm not sure exactly but I think they're for the rear wiper and some lights?

 

The yellow block however was gutted inside. Some pins missing and wires popped out.

 

I'm going to trim the wires and put them in a new block, probably a water resistant one. 

 

As for the wire condition in the rubber boot in the tailgate, I haven't checked continuity yet owing the destroyed ends of the yellow block. 

However, when the tailgate is open, the wire loom in the rubber boot is pulled rock tight inside, I wonder if there is a way to stop the tailgate from maxing out, even just a fraction of an inch to take the strain off the wiring loom. It can't be good for it.

IMG20210407195236.jpg

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21 hours ago, srane4213 said:

does the puddle lamp work in drivers door? Also when you pen the drivers door, the door open lamp comes on in the cluster?

Yes and yes.

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