Noisy engine, low oil

[Breezy_Pete]

Get a second opinion, I'm not convinced at all about that being valve stem seals.

Have you still got some of the oil you 'topped up' with?  If so, go for it on the trip but keep to a steady pace and stop halfway to check/top up the oil.

[Ootohere]

Not convinced by the Mechanic.

The driving at high revs, what was that, using the wrong gear,

better just getting it warmed up and thrash it IMO.

 

1 litre low in a 2.8 litre oil capacity engine.

Did you ask what oil he did use at the service.

 

Top it up to the top of area A on the dipstick and drive the car normally and see you things are, 

then if needs must get a 2nd opinion from a good mechanic.

Edited 7 September, 2017 by Headinawayoffski

[CamFabiaMk2]

@Wino @Headinawayoffski  This evening has been very stressful ha. Mainly because thinking of alternatives to what I was going to do tomorrow.

 

Yes @Wino still got 2.5 litres left. I was thinking of doing that idea. I thought as I've used it for a week and keeping it low revs and steady and not noticed an oil

drop. Good idea on stopping half way so will do that there and back. Plus no motorways just A roads so can stick in the 'slow' lanes.

 

@Headinawayoffski yes that is true. Yeah he said he used 30w. And what do you mean 1 litre low sorry? 

 

Ok will do, tomorrow's journey should be a test to be fair.

 

Will let you know how it goes. And have been recommended a garage to go to if I need to. 

 

 

 

[Ootohere]

You said he checked tonight and it was 1 litre low.  Or had used 1 lite, so that would be 2.8 litres dropped to 1.8 litres.

Was that what he put in to top it up again?

 

Not sure about this 'keeping it to low revs'  just drive the car as it should be driven at NSL's or lower, however you drive.

Edited 7 September, 2017 by Headinawayoffski

[CamFabiaMk2]

@Headinawayoffski yeah he had checked tonight after he drove it and said it was 1 litre low

 

I am not 100% sure, would it make a difference?

 

Ok I drive sensibly to be fair. Definitely don't rev it high when not necessary etc

Edited 7 September, 2017 by CamFabiaMk2

[Ootohere]

It makes a difference that you do not overfill the oil.

 

So is it now sitting at the correct level when the oil was Hot, ?

just check where it is at when stone cold so you know before setting off.

[CamFabiaMk2]

Ah sorry I thought you meant something else. 

 

That makes perfect sense. I just checked it and it's not been on for 3 hours and is sitting on the level in the correct position. (Area a). I did let him know it takes 2.8 litres so he knew not to overfill it. 

 

Thanks for your time on this guys. Fingers crossed for tomorrow 

Edited 7 September, 2017 by CamFabiaMk2

[Breezy_Pete]

[xman]

I'm confused...lost 1 litre in 6 miles?? Did you top up after that with 1 litre??  You couldnt possibly leak 1 litre though valve stems in 6 miles...

 

Reminds me of our old Mk1 HTP. Never used a drop of oil until at 110k it was borrowed by a dodgy "boyfriend" who supposedly borrowed it to go to work for a couple of weeks. I heard he drove like a maniac. When I later checked the oil, there was none on the dipstick, and required almost one and a half litres.

 

Fearing major damage, I got it back in and changed oil/filter but found no signs of leaks or burning oil. The "boyfriend" was got rid of and there was no further oil useage in next 30k.

 

Mystery??

 

I researched the htp engine - document ssp260.

 

My final guess was either

 

ragging it around corners at high revs caused oil churn from the crank hitting oil flying around , in turn the oil mist produced overwhelmed the internal oil separator in the crankcase breather system, pushing the oil mist out the inlet manifold. 

 

Or

 

while changing the oil that time, I heard the most peculiar gurgling sound as if somewhere suddenly dumping loads of oil internally, I subsequently thought this might be the oil seperator, theres a one way valve in there iirc. Maybe that one way oil return valve got stuck and the oil just accumulated in the breather system.

 

But this is just a guess.

 

http://pierro777.free.fr/DOCVAG/1.2_3CYL_ENGINE.pdf

 

This link is not the complete document, google it to find the complete version

 

 

 

Edited 8 September, 2017 by xman

[CamFabiaMk2]

@xman the dipstick before the 'test' drive was just under area a and then when he came back it was almost under the hatched area. So was told that's a litre?

 

Yes that sounds similar to our issue! Thanks for sharing that with me. I think my best bet is to continue what I started last week of monitoring the oil daily and checking to see if I am losing any. So far I hadn't for a week until that 'test drive'

 

Edited 8 September, 2017 by CamFabiaMk2

[Ootohere]

What power output is your engine?

 

Just to keep it simple if you are dipping to check do it where it is parked regularly and before starting the engine.

& maybe just once after you know where it is at on the dipstick when cold,  go at least 10 miles then stop for 4 or 5 minutes and dip it, 

then you know where it is when at Operating Temp.

 

This means if travelling, stopping for fuel / coffee etc you know your level is ok on a journey.

 

Personally i would now top up with 5w 40 Full Synthetic (VW502 00) if it did keep using oil.

Then when i got the chance change the oil totally to 5w 40 Full Synthetic. (VW502 00)

(£16 for 4 litres or less in ASDA or other places would be perfect.)

 

Hopefully there is no long term issues and the mechanic has just been overfilling the engine with oil.

[CamFabiaMk2]

@Headinawayoffski Engine is a 1.2 htp

 

Yes thanks for that, it helped a lot!

 

Just an update, so did the 120 mile journey and made it there and back okish...

 

Had 3 occasions, 2 on way there and 1 on way back. Of the 'limp' mode thing I mentioned a while ago on this post. But now it's clearer what's happening, before I go to a garage would be good if anyone has any ideas of the cause. 

 

So all 3 times I was driving about 60/70 (motorway and dual carriage ways). And I would be going a consistent speed at about 3000 revs for at least 10+ minutes. Then I would start slowing the car down and changing down gears. But the car would just lose power and start juddering. So each time I had to bring the car to a complete stop. Turn the engine off and back on. Then the car was fine? It's happened before but last time it happened it didn't then happen again for 2+ weeks. So seems that there is an issue when the cars been going a constant speed / rev range for a period of time and then is required to change the speed / revs

 

any ideas?

 

Also oil didn't seem to be an issue yesterday, but haven't checked it this morn so will update once I have 

 

thanks 

Edited 9 September, 2017 by CamFabiaMk2

[Ootohere]

You already said what engine it is, 

But what power output is it 60ps/ 44kw or 75ps/55kw,

i know not very much about them really.  (Owners manual says 44kw 1.2 dip oil cold)

 

The spark plugs you said were changed 500 miles ago, then you said were oiled when the mechanic removed them the other night, this can be an issue, failing spark plugs before replaced last time can have a coil fail, 

there are so many reasons including some issue the servicing introduced that you need a good mechanic / technician to diagnose, one familiar with the engine you have.

?

Did the mechanic that came out the other night fit those spark plugs 500 miles previously, 

& what was the car in for at that time, just Servicing, or was there some issues at that time?

 

??

When did the car last run properly with no issues, and how long have you had it?

 

IF THERE ARE BIGGER ISSUES, TIMING, VALVES or ANYTHING MAJOR YOU NEED THAT CORRECTLY DIAGNOSED, NOT JUST SOMEONE GUESSING.

Edited 9 September, 2017 by Headinawayoffski

[xman]

You never mentioned limp mode before.....

 

Is it just the engine hunting up/down from almost stall to around 1500+ rpm?  This symptom reported by several members, including myself usually occurs after a longish period of steady cruising. Consensus seems its a faulty or contaminated throttle position sensor (the one on the pedal). In my case I resolved it by excerising the throttle pedal by hand (with the engine off!) from full on to pulling it back hard to off position several times, to wipe the sensor tracks clean. Usually works for several months before reoccurring.

 

Check the hard vacuum tubing from the brake servo through to the inlet manifold for splits and loose fit especially at the engine end.

 

Could very well be a failing coilpak, did the engine check light come on? Normally the coilpak will fail completely after a while.

 

Check the garage fitted the correct spark plugs, could be wrong heat range.

 

Could be lots of other things, inc but not limited to, a sticky/burnt inlet/exhaust valve, oil fouling a plug, fuel injector, chafed electrical wiring loom, dodgy connection, these would more likely to show up more often.

 

Just my 2p worth on measuring oil level......Because the dipstick is at the left/rear of the sump, it is important that the car is on perfectly level ground. Check the oil after the engine has been stood at least 10-15 minutes, overnight I think is preferable. Make sure to wipe and push the dipstick firmly home each time and wait a few seconds before pulling out.

Also do not be tempted to fill beyond the hatched area. I have found the level to be a bit erratic on the odd occasion.

Edited 9 September, 2017 by xman