I want to know what's causes pre ignition an a rattling noise when you accelerate in my other car it was the distribution needed adjustment can u help me? Thanks 

It can be a few things.  The ignition timing is common, what happens is if the distributer is set wrong, the spark plugs will detonate the fuel too early.   depending on the age of the car it can also be the timing of the car itself.   when they used to put lead in petrol it was partially to prevent the petrol from igniting too early by itself.  With the change to unleaded petrol, cars that were not set up for it had to have their timing adjusted to compensate.

It can also be high compression in the cylinders causing the fuel to self ignite like a diesel engine does.

 

I believe it's the fuel because we had that car from new an never tamper with timing an so forth 

Anthony96

Post a video with the engine making that noise.

Onli wen I'm goin up a hill or have on the ac I hear it 

9 hours ago, Anthony96 said:

Onli wen I'm goin up a hill or have on the ac I hear it 

Well, based on this, have you tried changing down a gear when you hear this noise? If you have, does that stop the noise?

17 hours ago, Anthony96 said:

I believe it's the fuel because we had that car from new an never tamper with timing an so forth 

Just because you didn't adjust the ignition timing doesn't mean that meanwhile something in the distributor didn't fail. It is usually vacuum advance related.

Remember what you know for sure that have changed. Did you change your driving habits? Did you change the fuel quality? And so on. If nothing has been changed voluntarily, then it's the distributor or carbon deposits on the spark plugs or on top of the pistons.

I dont want to alarm you too much, but if the noise is really loud and rattley: like shuffling spoons around in a cutlery tray when the engine is under load then it could be a sign of a stretched timing chain thats getting ready for replacement. Its not normally an impending failure: i had one that rattled on for 4 more months and 3000 miles, but hopefully your problem is less serious: its easier to diagnose when you can hear these noises in person.

@Favorit Fan - My E of stretched timing chains is that they are LOUD all the time rather than just when the engine is under load. Like @RicardoM I honestly think this is more likely to be a timing and/or low octane fuel issue.

Tk be honest i feel it's timing although nobody touch it 

On 10/26/2017 at 04:42, RicardoM said:

Just because you didn't adjust the ignition timing doesn't mean that meanwhile something in the distributor didn't fail. It is usually vacuum advance related.

Remember what you know for sure that have changed. Did you change your driving habits? Did you change the fuel quality? And so on. If nothing has been changed voluntarily, then it's the distributor or carbon deposits on the spark plugs or on top of the pistons.

I feel it's not advancing an regarding hear it more when the ac is on 

On 10/25/2017 at 18:12, Anthony96 said:

I believe it's the fuel because we had that car from new an never tamper with timing an so forth 

 

7 minutes ago, Anthony96 said:

To be honest i feel it's timing although nobody touch it 

Since you can't decide what is wrong, let's start with the basics. See photo for the correct rotation of distributor.

Also read again carefully my previous post.

@Anthony96 Well, that seems to be a consensus then. I'm sure that @RicardoM will agree with me that if the vacuum advance controller on the distributor, or the vacuum pipe from it to the intake, fails, you won't get vacuum advance.

 

So the first thing to check is the pipe. You see the pale gold object attached to the side of the distributor body in Ricardo's photo; Check to see that that pipe is complete, not torn, and attached at both ends. If that pipe is complete, you need to check the advance controller itself. Unfortunately, it's so long since I needed to do this that I've forgotten how!

6 hours ago, KenONeill said:

If that pipe is complete, you need to check the advance controller itself. Unfortunately, it's so long since I needed to do this that I've forgotten how!

The "controller" is just a membrane that pulls an off center pin fixed on the plateau holding 4 pegs for the Hall sensor. Checking it involves a vacuum pump and a strobe lamp. Or just lift the distributor cap (engine stopped) and suck on the rubber hose that feeds the membrane. Look for rotation of the plateau.

On 10/30/2017 at 11:45, RicardoM said:

The "controller" is just a membrane that pulls an off center pin fixed on the plateau holding 4 pegs for the Hall sensor. Checking it involves a vacuum pump and a strobe lamp. Or just lift the distributor cap (engine stopped) and suck on the rubber hose that feeds the membrane. Look for rotation of the plateau.

Nothing happen when I did that this morning 

You need to dismantle the upper part of the distributor (after you remove the cap and the rotor). The diaphragm might be ruptured or the distributor plateau has never been oiled. See photo of a dismantled upper part below.

Do I have to remove the distributor from the wagon 

Not necessarily but it is easier to work on it off the car.