12 hours ago, TMB said:

You mean the handbrake arm pivot?....

 

 

I just put a drop of oil on mine when I fitted my shoes.

Yes, same pin / pivot.

As promised- my Furby's TRW brakes after 2 years.

Photo 1- after dismantling of brake drum, photo 2- after cleaning ONLY with compressed air.

Looks not so bad afterall- but handbrake arm pivot is totally stuck, as expected.

Cylinders are dry under dust bellows- but based on last 11 years fight with their leakage ("looks dry > move in & out during pad replacement > starts to leak"), will replace them.

And this time will not grease that damn handbrake arm pivot at all- let's see...

 

Edited 16 February, 20188 yr by indars

Looks more like ten years than two. How have they got into that state?

 

 

9 hours ago, TMB said:

Looks more like ten years than two. How have they got into that state?

 

 

Very good question :-) All parts were new, cylinders not leaking, fresh brake fluid every 2 years, no air in system, MOT passed etc. Maybe “welcome to LV with it’s salt roads in winter”? Strange indeed, because left side looks 2x better- and handbr.works ok on this side, too. All this dirt is sticky an half-liquid- but went away just with compressed air.

At mounting of new parts, only moving contact points were greased with ceramic spray (except  wedge).

On ‎2018‎.‎02‎.‎10‎. at 23:13, TMB said:

You mean the handbrake arm pivot?....

 

 

I just put a drop of oil on mine when I fitted my shoes.

 

Hi again.

I just want to aware you in advance about this exact kit :-/

 

1. I installed this too, 2 years ago (+new TRW drums & Euroflex brake cables- total s...t, btw).

2. Now h-brake arm pivot is totally stuck on one side and almost stuck on other side.

3. Wedge on one side is totally down (i.e., upper bump of wedge lays on pressure rod!) despite wear of linings/drums on both sides is minimal. Other wedge stays high :-) like it should be.

I think, it refers to fact, that after installing of new parts my handbrake was totally un-even.

Maybe, that wedge was "down" from very beginning. No wear on both wedges.

4. Pressure rod is (at least) 2mm wider than original pressure rod = my aftermarket wheel bolts started to touch it a lil' bit (till replacement they didn't).

Accordingly, it's impossible to dismantle shoe set without dismantling of cylinder or wheel bearing, or upper 2 springs > because there's not enough space between cylinder and bearing flange.

5. Elongination of 2 upper springs after 2 years is ~4mm.

6. Cylinders- dry.

7. Glide pads- minimal wear.

 

Spent all the last night to get right with a.m.problems with minimal expences- and in the end ordered all new parts, because there was nothing I can do more.

Very pity, because wear of linings and drums is minimal...

Fresh parts arrived today and was compared with old ones- so, am pretty sure about my pesimistic post.

Points 3+4 really makes me ill... seems, manufacturing tolerances are swimming forth-and-back...

 

To end on positive note:

Original rear Monroe's are just replaced (after 11 years and 250k km). Took Sachs instead. Not tested yet. Front- still original.

ARB's bushings replaced, too- total silence in front now.

Thanks Indars, I'll keep an eye on them. Have to say that they seem to be working very well - handbrake is very good too.

 

 

4 hours ago, indars said:

4. Pressure rod is (at least) 2mm wider than original pressure rod = my aftermarket wheel bolts started to touch it a lil' bit (till replacement they didn't).

Accordingly, it's impossible to dismantle shoe set without dismantling of cylinder or wheel bearing, or upper 2 springs > because there's not enough space between cylinder and bearing flange.

 

 

It's very easy to remove the hub bearing with flange.

14 hours ago, TMB said:

 

It's very easy to remove the hub bearing with flange.

 

Yes, done it 10H ago, too- last of original bearings are just replaced (went for aftermarket FAG, again).

30mm 12-point socket, dismantled bearing by hand. 70Nm+30* for nut afterwards.

But (in theory) you need new nut and cover every time. In reality- just few taps with hammer to old nut (to get nylon out a bit') and install old cover on sealant or screw glue.

 

Last job during today- bleeding of brakes & handbr.adjustment. Now seems that hanbr.will be even- pushed pedal few times, dismantled drums- and both wedges are sitting almost in same depth.

And balancer of ropes stays quite straight too, with no tilting to left or right. Let's see...

I have FAG bearings too

 

 

 

 

Edited 9 March, 20188 yr by TMB