Hi guys,

 

just got my "brand new" 2010 Fabia 1.2 HTP today. Drove fine for about an hour, then cruise control switched itself off. After a few more minutes the climatronic started acting up (couldn't control fan speed), then radio froze and finally power steering was gone. I limped into a gas station and switched the engine off. Filled the tank (needed petrol anyway) and tried to start the car. The starter cranked only once and very hesitant, like when the battery is flat. Got it jump started and headed home. Everything was fine, then it all started again :-(

 

Any ideas where to "look"? I am ready to run out tomorrow and get a brand new 74ah Exide/Varta/Bosch ******, but maybe you have some ideas?

 

Dealer says the car has been sitting for a while and claims the ignition coils were just changed.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Peter

Update:

measured the battery this morning before starting the engine: 11.8 volt

After starting the engine: 11.5 volt, very slowly rising again to about 11.8 volt

So I am suspecting the alternator now. I called the dealer and he will take a look at it monday.

Bought a brand new Exide 74ah just to completely rule out a bad battery.

Will check and clean cables to and from alternator, tomorrow.

Check to see if your battery light comes on when you turn on the ignition (before starting the engine).

Wino: it does come on (it works) and goes off after the engine is started. So initially I didn't suspect the alternator. Normally the red battery light should come on if the battery is being drained/not charged, right?

There's a very common fault on the Mk1 Fabias where the two thin wires that go to the alternator break near a connector pair in front of the gearbox, giving various problems including non-charging. When that happens, the battery light doesn't come on with the ignition. Was wondering if it could be the same problem on yours, but the battery light coming on with ignition suggests it isn't that problem. Worth a look though.

 

40 minutes ago, PeterInDenmark said:

Will check and clean cables to and from alternator, tomorrow.

Good idea; also check the widest of the strip fuses in the battery fusebox.

 

Could simply be a dead battery though, pulling down the alternator voltage, if it's the factory original. Does it have a VW group part number on it?

Battery is brand new 74ah. Bought it today. So at least that is out of the way.

 

I will hunt down the thin cable you mention and check the fuse.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I will report back with the result.

Ah, I didn't realise you'd got/fitted the new battery yet. So the voltage readings in the second post, were they with the old or new battery?

old battery. But the readings of the new one are not much better:

 

Just installed, engine still off: 12.5

Engine running: 12.0

 

And the voltage keeps dropping slowly when I am driving. Everything electrical is turned off: Fans, radio, heated seats, instrument lighting

 

The voltage goes about 0.5 volts up, when the engine is turned off again.

 

So driving home from work tonight: 11.5 volts

After engine is off: 12 volts

 

I just can´t wait to actually enjoy my new car :-)

 

Peter

 

Yeah, for some reason the alternator is doing nothing. Need to fix this situation fairly urgently or your new battery will soon be struggling and being damaged by low state of charge.

Yeah. I guess my strategy will be to charge and swap batteries every other day until monday (dealer appointment) + check the stuff you suggested

BTW: the two thin wires you mentioned earlier. Whats the easiest way to find them? Just follow all wires connected to the alternator and make sure they are intact? I know thats probably not related to my problem, but it will only take a minute to check I suppose. 

Update: still no solution

 

Alternator fuse on the battery is fine. When measuring voltage right before the fuse (on the giant cable from the alternator) and on the negative terminal, I get: 0.00 volts

So absolutely nothing coming the alternator.

Followed all cables from alternator, but no breaks found.

Tapped the alternator gentle with a hammer (as seen on some youtube videos :-)) - no result.

So hooked up a charger to the battery, so it can charge overnight.

Feel like a Tesla owner.

 

Car seemed to run fine on 11.4 volts today :-)

 

Peter

 

 

33 minutes ago, PeterInDenmark said:

When measuring voltage right before the fuse (on the giant cable from the alternator) and on the negative terminal, I get: 0.00 volts

That seems very strange. If the fuse is intact, and the alternator cable is connected to it, there should be battery voltage 'coming the other way' to the point you're measuring, even if the alternator is not turning? Are you sure you didn't have the other meter probe on battery positive?

Hmm.. I follow your logic. I should indeed get the same reading as on the battery itself. Maybe I just didn't´t get a proper connection with the multimeter. A healthy fuse should measure close to 0 ohms, right?

More  importantly there should be very little voltage drop across it at any time.

got it. I will measure resistance and voltage drop tomorrow - this time pressing harder to get a proper connection (still hoping this could just be a blown fuse)

Closer to a solution: check resistance today and I think the problem has been right under my nose: the positive cable from the back of the alternator was not connected properly to the connection bolt on the back of alternator. The cable end was rattling all over the place: can move almost 1 cm up and down the connection bolt (!). So tried tightening the nut with my fingers, but it was stuck. So need to get in there with a tiny wrench. It is kind of hard to get at. Will report back once the operation is done.

 

Peter

 

 

Ha Ha, so success could be just round the corner!  I'd think that the stud/captive bolt will have suffered a bit of damage on its thread, so might need to clean the thread up - or maybe get the nut off and fit a single coil washer behind the output lead tag to keep the nut away from the damaged area of the thread - if that still leaves enough thread for the nut?

 

Edit:- so when the weather gets warmer, maybe time to carry out a "bumper to bumper" check on that car.

Edited 26 January, 20188 yr by rum4mo

The crimp tag being tight up against where it is supposed to be is critical to good performance. Don't put anything in between. Steel is quite a poor conductor, so a face-to-face connection is required. 

Update: problem solved!

 

Sorry for the delay, but I have been busy driving :-)

 

Conclusion: an loose nut caused a broken connection between positive bolt on alternator and battery. Caused a number of electrical related faults: no cruise control, no climatronic fan, no radio, dull headlights, failing power steering and lastly limp/emergency mode.

 

The nut was tightened again, and problem solved.

 

I learned that everything operates normally down to about 12.0 volts, then "broken light bulb" warning light comes on and climatronic fan doesn't operate. Emergency mode (running on 2 cylinders and max 2000 rpm) starts at about 10.5 volts.

 

What I still dont get is why the h*** the battery warning light didn't come on?! I have been driving around with no power flowing to the battery at all - shouldn't that qualify for a warning light?!

 

Anyway,Wino and rum4mo: thanks for your help!!

 

Peter