Hi all,  I have a 2011 Superb2 and I have just experienced a door loom failure.  I repaired one wire, but things soon went wrong again.  To eliminate the problem I decided to jot down the loom number and buy a replacement.

 

the loom fitted is 3T2 971 120 CC. (Copied off the loom tag)   But on enquiry at a Skoda dealer the “correct” number is 3T2 971 120 CE.

 

can anybody validate this piece of information? Or identify the differences?  

 

thank you

 

Onepot

E denotes a later part number than C

It should replace C without issue AFAIK

Just had the same problem on my 58 superb. Right hand speakers no longer connected although everything else seems fine.

 

Was it difficult to swap the loom out or have you got someone else to do it?

Hi Pdrisc, 

I have not done it yet, this weekends job, but I do not anticipate any difficulties.  The door knows it’s own way off by now. 

Leave the glass in its uppermost position.

Remove the area containing the window controllers, it just pops off.  Unscrew the 2 large torx screws this reveals.  

Pop off the tweeter cover, disconnect and remove 1 smaller torx screw just behind the door open lever.

unscrew the 2 torx screws on the bottom of the door, then with a bit of wiggling the door card will come off.   Disconnect all connectors.

 

for access I found it easier to remove the door stay and the carDboard cover then I guess the trick is just to unthread the loom. 

 

The only bit bit that concerns me is the connection to the door lock which disappears into the door with apparently little access, perhaps the speaker needs to come out.  Maybe there is someone out there who knows!! 

 

I got my loom from http://www.skodaparts.com/ which is just a web outlet for Bickerton Skoda in Sheffield, but certainly a good place for OEM spares, and much cheaper than my local dealer.  I guess the loom is a main dealer part only.  

 

Note Ted earlier in this post my loom was suffix CC, but the curr3nt version is suffix CE which I now understand is a revision upgrade.  Hopefully the upgrade did not change the wire positions, but included better wire technology and a general improvement, however mine lasted 120k miles so if this one takes me to 240k miles, it probably won’t be my problem! 

 

If if I run into any problems I will post here.  Wish me luck! 

Edited 7 March, 20188 yr by One Pot

I wish you luck.

 

My car has just gone through 123k so its definitely an age thing. I have already repaired the loom in the boot once! Could you update me on how you got on this weekend?

 

Hi Pdrisc,

 

schoolboy error on my part!  After doing the repair on the loom and putting everything back together, the main connector on the door control unit almost fell into the right place, and looked in the correct position, so when I put it all back together, the door still failed to work, so I assumed further broken wires in the loom, and purchased a new one. 

Once the loom arrived I set about the loom replacement and imagine my surprise when one connector was clearly just sitting in position.  I reassembled everything and it all worked!  Doh!  

I had a good look at the door lock connector and cannot see a way to remove it  without removing the main window mounting plate, but didn’t go any further!  

Therefore I have a fully functioning door and a brand new door loom!    If anyone needs one! ! 

 

Reminds me of my motto, if anything breaks, check the last thing you touched first!  

Hi One Pot

 

I did some digging in the hinge of the door last weekend and can see a number of narrow gauge wires are snapped and the thicker gauge have split insulation.

 

I am struggling with  getting to the wires in the hinge area through a combination of big hands and the rubber gasket. When you removed the door card was this easier?

 

I presume the outer door skin will need to be removed to access the connectors that hook up to the door locks which looks to be quite daunting!

 

Have you still got the loom and would it suit my 58 Elegance model? I might have a go at taking the door card off on Friday to check what's under there and see what I can do. Will be able to check part number too then.

Hi Pdrisc

 

I repaired my loom (it was the thick Red wire in my case) by pushing the loom back into the door and removing the door check strap and the cardboard bulge at the top of the door.  The loom then could be drawn through the aperture covered by the cardboard bulge and access was much better - I am similarly blighted with big hands!!

 

When the door card is removed there is a tag on the loom with the part number on.  mine was 3T2 971 120 CC, but the current revision is Revision E with part number 3T2 971 120 CE.  It is still in the bag in my garage - PM< me if it is OK for you and we can agree a price

 

Onepot

So I pulled the door card off yesterday and checked out everything beneath - with the exception of the wiring loom part number!!!

 

I assume that to change the whole loom I will need to drill out the rivets for the main speak so that I can access the door lock and loom connector.

 

Has anyone had to either change the lock or the loom and how did you access those connections?

 

One Pot - will send you a DM.

Managed to take down the wiring loom number when it stopped raining in south wales on the weekend. My part number is 3T1 971 120 BM. The car is an Elegance 140TDI with Columbus stereo fitted.

 

Does anyone know whether this 3T2 971 120 CE is the correct spare part to replace my faulty loom. One Pot I sent you an updated DM.

 

BTW when I opened the door up I was looking at the wiring in the door and was amazed that the insulation is cracked in lots of places that are not prone to any movement. Really poor quality components IMO.

On 26/03/2018 at 09:14, One Pot said:

Hi Pdrisc

 

I repaired my loom (it was the thick Red wire in my case) by pushing the loom back into the door and removing the door check strap and the cardboard bulge at the top of the door.  The loom then could be drawn through the aperture covered by the cardboard bulge and access was much better - I am similarly blighted with big hands!!

 

When the door card is removed there is a tag on the loom with the part number on.  mine was 3T2 971 120 CC, but the current revision is Revision E with part number 3T2 971 120 CE.  It is still in the bag in my garage - PM< me if it is OK for you and we can agree a price

 

Onepot

 

Hello. Sorry to wake up old thread. Have you still got 3T1 971 120 CE loom for sale mate?

And maybe anybody find out how to easy disconect wiring from handle/lock inside the door?

14 hours ago, Saitex said:

 

Hello. Sorry to wake up old thread. Have you still got 3T1 971 120 CE loom for sale mate?

And maybe anybody find out how to easy disconect wiring from handle/lock inside the door?

 

I didn't buy the loom so i don't know whether One Pot still has it. I bought one direct from the dealer. Only issue was the one they supplied was actually wrong and i had to get a replacement to swap it. Their configuration control doesn't appear to be very good when it comes to BoMs. 

 

I bought a little tool on amazon to disconnect the wiring from the lock. Using that it took seconds after struggling to get my hands into that space. Was less than £10 and although i was sceptical it worked like a charm. 

On 11/09/2019 at 10:04, pdrisc said:

 

I didn't buy the loom so i don't know whether One Pot still has it. I bought one direct from the dealer. Only issue was the one they supplied was actually wrong and i had to get a replacement to swap it. Their configuration control doesn't appear to be very good when it comes to BoMs. 

 

I bought a little tool on amazon to disconnect the wiring from the lock. Using that it took seconds after struggling to get my hands into that space. Was less than £10 and although i was sceptical it worked like a charm. 

 

Thanks for information pdrisc. I spoke to One Pot, he sold his not long ago. 

Anyway, I took all wiring out(turns out the code is different on my wiring, eve SkodaParts says it should be yhe one like OnePot mentioned), 2 orange ones was already broken, couple thicker wires was already split open, one was nearly snapped. So I did soldered absolutely all of them and made them like 2 cm longer. Works a treat for now. 

Better skills than me. 

On 12/09/2019 at 12:10, Saitex said:

 

Thanks for information pdrisc. I spoke to One Pot, he sold his not long ago. 

Anyway, I took all wiring out(turns out the code is different on my wiring, eve SkodaParts says it should be yhe one like OnePot mentioned), 2 orange ones was already broken, couple thicker wires was already split open, one was nearly snapped. So I did soldered absolutely all of them and made them like 2 cm longer. Works a treat for now. 

Hi

 

ive got the same problems on both doors. I’m thinking of soldering mine. Do it take long? And how easy was it to tomorrow the plug from the rubber gaiter? 

 

2 minutes ago, Taxiskoda said:

Hi

 

ive got the same problems on both doors. I’m thinking of soldering mine. Do it take long? And how easy was it to tomorrow the plug from the rubber gaiter? 

 

Sorry didn’t check post before. Damn autocorrect.  It was meant to say “does” and tomorrow was meant to say “to get”

4 hours ago, Taxiskoda said:

Hi

 

ive got the same problems on both doors. I’m thinking of soldering mine. Do it take long? And how easy was it to tomorrow the plug from the rubber gaiter? 

 

 

 Hello. To unclip rubber gaiter from body is quite easy with plastic trim removal tools or simply with screw driver. However, its phisically impossible to remover gaiter from wiring, as on one side you got big connector and on other bunch of other wires. Although, you can slide it to the side and zip tight it or whatever to make some space to work on soldering. 

It is to remove wiring from door while wiggling through holes until you reach point where wiring loom goes inside the door and its connected to door handle and its completely sealed. I didnt had a tool to disconnect it from handle, so I cut it about 5 cm before it goes to the door and made a n additional connection there.

All soldering depends on how good your skills and how comfy is your station to work on. I all wires one by one, took me about 2 hours on driver side with making longer wires for each on and so on  On driver doors I think its about 20 wires, on passenger should about half. When youll take wiring out, youll see how wiring its "worn off" being quite hard and a bit short.

Hope it helps 

3 hours ago, Saitex said:

 

 Hello. To unclip rubber gaiter from body is quite easy with plastic trim removal tools or simply with screw driver. However, its phisically impossible to remover gaiter from wiring, as on one side you got big connector and on other bunch of other wires. Although, you can slide it to the side and zip tight it or whatever to make some space to work on soldering. 

It is to remove wiring from door while wiggling through holes until you reach point where wiring loom goes inside the door and its connected to door handle and its completely sealed. I didnt had a tool to disconnect it from handle, so I cut it about 5 cm before it goes to the door and made a n additional connection there.

All soldering depends on how good your skills and how comfy is your station to work on. I all wires one by one, took me about 2 hours on driver side with making longer wires for each on and so on  On driver doors I think its about 20 wires, on passenger should about half. When youll take wiring out, youll see how wiring its "worn off" being quite hard and a bit short.

Hope it helps 

Thanks for the advice. I’ll give it a go tomorrow if the weathers ok

On 11/09/2019 at 10:04, pdrisc said:

 

I didn't buy the loom so i don't know whether One Pot still has it. I bought one direct from the dealer. Only issue was the one they supplied was actually wrong and i had to get a replacement to swap it. Their configuration control doesn't appear to be very good when it comes to BoMs. 

 

I bought a little tool on amazon to disconnect the wiring from the lock. Using that it took seconds after struggling to get my hands into that space. Was less than £10 and although i was sceptical it worked like a charm. 

Hi I am also thinking of replacing the loom. Could you please tell what that tool is to disconnect the wiring from the lock is. Many thanks. 

23 hours ago, Vapedroid said:

Hi I am also thinking of replacing the loom. Could you please tell what that tool is to disconnect the wiring from the lock is. Many thanks. 

It known as a VW connector tool.

 

Loads on Amazon. All seem to be the same so doesn't matter, as far as i can see, whether you go expensive or cheap.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=vw+connector+removal&crid=1LQ77GSNENMD9&sprefix=vw+connect%2Caps%2C159&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_10 

4 hours ago, pdrisc said:

It known as a VW connector tool.

 

Loads on Amazon. All seem to be the same so doesn't matter, as far as i can see, whether you go expensive or cheap.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=vw+connector+removal&crid=1LQ77GSNENMD9&sprefix=vw+connect%2Caps%2C159&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_10 

Thanks very much just waiting for a price on a new loom now

@Vapedroid

Take it to a independent garage or auto electrician if you cant resolder it your self 

Much cheaper and does the same job as buying a new loom 

They cut out the old and replace with newer longer wire to stop the problem happening again

I had both front door looms replaced by an auto electrician it cost £500 he also sprayed something on the wires and taped them for protection

Found similar issue with my 2012 superb. After having issues removing trim I found this article which helped, but after I had removed the wrong part of the door with the window controls and snapped the catches.

 

https://www.instructables.com/id/ŠKODA-Superb-MK2-door-panel-removal/

 

Still have the airbag warning light coming on after I soldered a few wires, which came on after I disconnected the plug but at least I can lock the doors etc now.

 

 

6 hours ago, draig576 said:

 

 

Still have the airbag warning light coming on after I soldered a few wires, which came on after I disconnected the plug but at least I can lock the doors etc now.

 

 

You must of had ignition on for this to happen will just need the code cleared with a scanner

It logs a fault if disconected

drivers door has a crash sensor built into door.

Edited 9 January, 20206 yr by DEL80Y