This method of dash cam installation has a few benefits:

• The dash cam is plugged into a switched live power source i.e. the dash cam automatically powers up and powers down in sync with the cars ignition.
• The wires and plugs are hidden away and not left dangling from the dash cam down the middle of the car to the 12V accessory power socket in the ash tray.

The alternative is to plug the dash cam directly into the 12V socket and either leave it plugged in (dash cam powered up / recording all of the time) which over time could drain the battery, or rely on the driver remembering to plug it in and unplug it each time they get in or out of the car.

 

This guide is for a semi-permanent, hands-free installation.

 

understood!

Thanks for this guide, it is very well done BUT has anyone seen or done a similar guide to mount a rear window dashcam?  ... after having someone do a runner after hitting me on the rear corner, i am considering doing a 2 camera system.

i know there is a thread but it does not have much info about how to power a unit - the one they used had power from the front camera by the sounds of it.

Edited 1 December, 20187 yr by eMpTy
add text

is headlining glued on Karoq also? I was considering this as an option to use as a route between front and rear dashcam

I'd imagine the Karoq is very similar to the Kodiaq. The headlining is certainly glued along the top edge of the windscreen, but there is still enough space to feed a dash cam wire in without having to disturb the glue.

Thanks for the instructions they are a great help.  Took me about 40 mins to compete my installation. 

 

One word of warning however - when I removed the dash end panel the passenger airbag switch disconnected and as a result I now get an airbag error code displayed on the dash. I removed the end panel quite carefully but it still disconnected despite the connector on the back of the switch having a locking mechanism.

 

So just be ultra careful with this step otherwise you'll end up having a trip to the garage to get the fault code cleared.

 

22 hours ago, Eee2999 said:

Thanks for the instructions they are a great help.  Took me about 40 mins to compete my installation. 

 

One word of warning however - when I removed the dash end panel the passenger airbag switch disconnected and as a result I now get an airbag error code displayed on the dash. I removed the end panel quite carefully but it still disconnected despite the connector on the back of the switch having a locking mechanism.

 

So just be ultra careful with this step otherwise you'll end up having a trip to the garage to get the fault code cleared.

 

 

I managed to clear the fault code myself using an ODB2 reader and some software for my smartphone.  

 

The ODB2 reader i purchased was this one:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0751HW65B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The smartphone app was this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bluetooth.vagerasedtcall&hl=en_GB

 

Happy Days!

Thanks, fitting Black-vu front and rear. This makes it a doddle

Thanks for the guide, I have installed front and rear Blackvue last week, this helped a lot!

Edited 4 February, 20197 yr by jvanderster
typo

Many thanks for this detailed guide, Silver.  Was invaluable for hardwiring my MiVue Dashcam.  Just about to attack the other half's Fabia to do the same job.

Perfect, thank you.

Thanks for the great install how to. 

I'm not great pulling apart and re wiring so my cable runs in the body work around the windscreen, then under the dash and pops out to plug into the charging port in the centre console. Works a treat until I hook it up to a fuse. 

On 23/07/2018 at 23:16, silver1011 said:

Run the cab;e all the way along the top of the windscreen under the headlining until you reach the hard plastic A-pillar trim.

 

This trim is clipped in place, but once you peel the door seal away there is plenty of flex to allow you to temporarily feed the cable behind it.

 

WARNING! There is an airbag behind this trim. When fiddling around do not disturb the airbag, also be sure to ensure the cable is routed and secured underneath the airbag to ensure it's performance is not adversely affected in the event of a deployment...

 

 

Edited 8 June, 20196 yr by laur
And... where do you run the cable in the end? Behind the A pillar trim near the windscreen or behind the rubber through A pillar trim? I do not understood...

After you've run the cable down the A-Pillar to the top of the dashboard, you then have to feed it in behind the rubber door seal. From there you can then feed it into the glovebox.

Thanks..i asked because in the pictures is not very clear especially where is inserted over the airbag.

 

Awesome job.  Just got a NextBase 522GW with rear cam.  Will be massively helpful with hardwiring it in.

 

Thanks

Hi, I've just bought and had fitted a Nextbase 522GW with rear cam, wired down the passenger side.  I have lost DAB signal (common I know), is there a way round this that anyone has successfully found?  As soon as I unplug the rear cam from the main unit DAB instantly returns.....any tips or just admit defeat and remove the rear cam?

Thanks, a wonderful post with very detailed guide and pics.

I'm just wondering if anyone else succeeded with other dashcam types/brands?

I have a Mio MiVue 538 in my Kody and it worked well for that.  I also followed the same general principles when I fitted a MiVue 785 to the wife’s Fabia and the only problem I really had with that was finding a decent earthing point.

On 28/08/2019 at 19:42, adsta said:

Hi, I've just bought and had fitted a Nextbase 522GW with rear cam, wired down the passenger side.  I have lost DAB signal (common I know), is there a way round this that anyone has successfully found?  As soon as I unplug the rear cam from the main unit DAB instantly returns.....any tips or just admit defeat and remove the rear cam?

I had this in my Superb. The radio antenna is near the rear window. All the excess wire from the rear dashcam was looped up right next to it and caused Dab interference. So pulled all the excess through to the front of the car and tied it up in the glovebox. Worked fine after that. Took me ages to work out what might be causing it 

That's another job I'm going t have to do now I've seen this thread. I know the glovebox is different on an Octavia but the guide is excellent and very useful so thanks!

 

I was thinking a Nextbase too, I don't need every feature known to man just something to record a no fault accident. 

On 23/07/2018 at 21:35, silver1011 said:

Now to the bench in the garage.

 

I bought myself a female 12V cigarette plug and a piggyback fuse holder...

 

 

 

 

The red (live) wire from the cigarette lighter socket is attached to the red wire on the piggyback fuse holder.

 

The black (earth) wire from the cigarette lighter is earthed to the car, shown later.

 

What piggyback is it micro or standard

I originally bought a standard sized piggyback fuse holder, but when it came to fitting it I couldn't find a 15A switched live fuse that it would fit too. The reason being is that my Kodiaq is fitted with electrically adjustable front seats and the fuse is quite big (the big blue one on the bottom row), impeding access to the two adjacent 15A fuses either side.

 

This left me with the smaller micro fuses in the top row, so I bought a micro sized piggyback fuse holder and used that instead.

 

 

Edited 22 September, 20196 yr by silver1011

On 23/07/2018 at 21:20, silver1011 said:

Here is the airbag...

 

 

 

Take your time.

 

Hi Silver1011. After your play around with the A-pillar trim, do you have any tips on how to take it off completely without braking any clips? Is it just a matter pulling it off from top to bottom?

I didn't remove the A-pillar trim in its entirety, I just lifted it out from behind the door seal, this was enough to feed the wire underneath, and ensure no interference with the airbag.

 

A quick Google search didn't reveal any images of the trim itself (or at least the rear side), but did reveal the clips that secure it in place. They look very much like a friction fitting that would require a firm tug. Might be worth buying a few spare before starting the job just in case!