As I don’t have my Haynes manual to hand (and it often appears deceptive in there how easy stuff is!)

 

Can a relative amateur with basic tools do it, or best left to a garage 

Do you have a flare nut spanner?

12 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Do you have a flare nut spanner?

No

Get one, brake pipes can be tricky due to corroded fittings, a flare nut spanner is almost essential.

If you're fine with bleeding brakes then it's not hard. Push the brake pedal down a little, wedged in that position with a bit of wood against the front driver's seat. That seals off the fluid reservoir and stops too much fluid loss. Then it pretty much swapping the hose. A flare nut spanner as mentioned can be useful but the nuts should undo with a normal spanner. Look up torque settings on caliper or cylinder. New copper washers are used on caliper end, they would come with the hose. I've not touched drum brakes in years but from memory they had a straight screw on connection. Pipe end is normally nipped up by feel, like a bleed nipple is. Once swapped remove your brake pedal bit of wood and bleed brakes on the ones you swapped the hoses on. Final good hard push with engine running and confirm no leaks.

You really need a pressure bleeder, pedal pumping is not effective on these cars, if you put cling film over the reservoir you will minimise fluid loss while you change the hoses.

the rear ones onto the rear beam are a swine as you have very little movement range..so it takes ages to undo & do up...

 

& second a pressure bleeding...gunson ezee bleed...I used a normal spanner.....

@Wench If you're talking about the front flexis, watch out for this 'gotcha' if you don't use genuine hoses:

BTW, genuine ones from TPS aren't any more expensive than aftermarket, in my experience.

Edited 3 October, 20187 yr by Wino