Dunno, but if anyone can find 1K8 951 605C to buy anywhere I'll be surprised. For cah1982's car any of the part numbers shown in the skoda-parts.com link I posted should work, so best to buy one of those, the cheapest they can find.

There's 1K8951605C on the bay.

 

also see: https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/1k8951605.html

Edited 3 May, 20224 yr by MicMac

10 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Dunno, but if anyone can find 1K8 951 605C to buy anywhere I'll be surprised. For cah1982's car any of the part numbers shown in the skoda-parts.com link I posted should work, so best to buy one of those, the cheapest they can find.

I posted a link to this part number on eBay hours ago!

I`ve sourced a local 2nd hand unit for £10 so for sake of that much if it lasts a year or more bonus. 

 

I dont know if the variation is where the units where made. mine just says 1K8 951 605 but no letter at end.

 

When people refit them what do you use where the rivet used to hold it to wing

5 hours ago, dannymassive said:

I posted a link to this part number on eBay hours ago!

No, you didn't, that's a 1K0!

5 hours ago, MicMac said:

There's 1K8951605C on the bay.

 

also see: https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/1k8951605.html

Again, supersersed by 1k8...A, then 1k8...B, but then 1K0...C

 

5 hours ago, cah1982 said:

I`ve sourced a local 2nd hand unit for £10 so for sake of that much if it lasts a year or more bonus. 

 

I dont know if the variation is where the units where made. mine just says 1K8 951 605 but no letter at end.

 

 

Excellent choice. 🙂

12 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

It's the third character I'm trying to draw attention to, 0 in one case 8 in t'other. Different base part numbers. 

 

 

Sorry Pete I completely missed that. Must be getting old!

Not a worry, me being overly pedantic more than anything. 

Still the confusing issue of why the supersedence path highlighted by @MicMac goes through 1K8951605B and stops at 1K0951605C, but ETKA for this car shows the opposite path forwards in time!

Beats the hell out of me. 😁

 

guessing I got a fault unit from scrappers, fitted it, when alarm triggered flashing lights but no siren 😞

 

I dont believe the unit needs coding or anything else? strange thig was the unit had a rattle, like a SMD component was loose in side

Shame. Doubt there's any coding involved.

If you post it to me I could have a look and maybe fix it for you? PM if interested.

 

scappers is off to swap it, if they said they didnt want it back, Id happily open it up myself lol

 

If battery on one I took off the car was leaking it was going to replace it, but voltage is still holding over 6v and looks fine

 

So only thing i could guess which maybe causing fault is the 3 capacitors, which i could swap, but thats just guessing 😞

 

 

Electrolytic capacitors can rattle if they dry out.

this sounds like its falling off, can here it rolling about inside 😁

😆

 

got replacement, thats fixed the error on the alarm horn, onto next now 😞 

 

When I trigger alarm on my car only lights are flashing and no sound.

 

DTC stored: 1134 Audible Alarm-H12, Alarm horn-H12

 

Anyone knows if this could be the battery only? Or sirene is dead?

Impossible to tell as siren failure is not a common fault. Could be an indication of a failing alarm battery.

If your car is over 10 years old then I suggest you replace the alarm unit as it is likely to be running on borrowed time.

 

On 09/10/2022 at 23:47, pikpilot said:

Impossible to tell as siren failure is not a common fault. Could be an indication of a failing alarm battery.

If your car is over 10 years old then I suggest you replace the alarm unit as it is likely to be running on borrowed time.

 

It's 11 years old now. I'll check the horn/battery when I found some time. Thanks for the reply.

My Yeti is now 12 years old and has just started having this problem. 01134 code and alarm going off randomly.

I've found this battery on fleaBay which has a photo, bizarrely, exactly the same as @FatblokeVRS posted (I've messaged you @FatblokeVRS to check why that is).

I'm quite happy soldering so might give this a go before I send it to a dealer to charge me a fortune.

 

Regarding the wheel arch cover, will I need to break anything to get enough space and if I do get access to the space where the alarm sits, is it just a nut that needs removing and the cable to be disconnected?

 

Another question, in the short term, to avoid p1551ng off the neighbours, can I simply remove fuse 34 in the dashboard or will that cause other issues?

 

Thanks in advance.

It seems they have used my photo without permission or acknowledgement.

 

The wheel arch should move enough to get into the siren but you may need to remove some of the panel clips. It's behind a metal box/cover that's held in with a pop rivet if I remember correctly.

 

Just drill the pop rivet out. You can replace it with a self tapper screw.

 

Not sure about the fuse.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

 

 

Good to know about the rivet. Thanks. Hopefully someone can let me know about the fuse to save my neighbours' sanity!

On 04/05/2022 at 12:54, Breezy_Pete said:

Not a worry, me being overly pedantic more than anything. 

Still the confusing issue of why the supersedence path highlighted by @MicMac goes through 1K8951605B and stops at 1K0951605C, but ETKA for this car shows the opposite path forwards in time!

Beats the hell out of me. 😁

Sorry to restart an old thread, but according to my ETKA, type no. 1K8951605B was originally installed in my Superb (built in July 2011). This number was replaced by 1K0951605C on June 1, 2012.

This last number is also the one that Skoda-Parts.com is selling (at a whopping € 256...), so I think that is the correct number you need to buy when needing a replacement.

 

Has anyone successfully installed a cheaper version from Aliexpress without any resulting VCDS errors? I might need one in the near future...

If anyone's still looking at this after three years I wonder if these alarms will work without the battery? I've had two which have failed because the battery's leaked so is it really necessary?

Usually if the battery leaked there will be (perhaps unseen) damage which is terminal.

My experience is that false alarms can generated when the battery is kaput.

Thanks, I was wondering if I could remove the battery before it had a chance to leak and would the alarm still work, as after all there's a battery in the car.

I haven’t had any faults yet but been reading the complete yeti service manual that says the alarm battery supposedly should be replaced every 6 years.

I presume the backup battery is the same as the OPs.

Varta 5/V200H are showing as available on some battery supplier sites, relatively expensive.

Note the fleabay listing using pic from here doesn’t show a pic of the actual battery - the sellers other listing for the same battery code has different solder tabs so not a simple swap.

Varta V200H individual cells are available (eg from TME for not much). Chinese lithium powered battery spot welders are great for joining cells using nickel strips. I have an FNIRSI one.

Varta 5/V150H is available (eg Conrad), smaller capacity and different solder pins and costs similar to the correct one. At least should keep the computer happy.

Varta CP300H (300mAh) is cylindrical and a bit longer (up to 10mm) and wider ?12mm but same height. Looks like it should be able to fit in the case with a little internal modification. I’m half inclined to try using flexible wire so the battery can be stuck in the case rather than soldered on the board. RS pro has the same battery size for half the price of Varta.

If happy to not have a backup battery, the circuit could be modified to get 6V from the car battery, which should keep the computer happy. I presume there is a 6V supply on the board already somewhere.

Edited 8 June, 20258 Jun by blouis79