On 09/03/2019 at 17:39, Wangarai said:

 

 

I'm confused, my head unit quad has non standard wires? The wire in your picture is blue/white, the corresponding wire on my quadlock is black (see image below)? I also seem to have a lot more populated pins - but I have the GVN60 Garmin satnav added to my MIB1 Bolero unit so I presume this is why?

 

Would I be right in saying these are the correct pins for the front right +/- , front left +/- and the power control (sorry for the cartoon like writing):

 

Are the speaker wires not in the brown block? 

Brown block is definitely the speakers, top and bottom row are rear I think from memory and middle four front

thanks scout, I have the sub & harness just need a sunny afternoon 

10 hours ago, masonic said:

Are the speaker wires not in the brown block? 

Yes, that's correct. I was way off with my diagram! 

Ands it’s in! So long tinny stereo!

Result, well done.

 

Are you pleased with the sound?

2 hours ago, CFBScout said:

Result, well done.

 

Are you pleased with the sound?

 

+1

 

whats it like

Just changed the input to speaker line (we removed the RCA’s) has given me loads more control with the remote (hidden in the little cubbyhole) less full on, will fiddle tomorrow!

Found this helpful 

EDaft question maybe but the yellow battery wire does it go to to a permanent live to the fuse box behind the glove box or to the main fuse Box on the engine bay. If so how do you get it through the bulk head? Thanks 

Edited 19 June, 20196 yr by masonic

To fuse box so easy

2 hours ago, masonic said:

EDaft question maybe but the yellow battery wire does it go to to a permanent live to the fuse box behind the glove box or to the main fuse Box on the engine bay. If so how do you get it through the bulk head? Thanks 

Yeah fuses in glove box, mine comes on with the ignition.

As I have now parted company with the VRS this Kenwood subwoofer is available for sale. £75 posted to UK

I may be interested in this subwoofer, I've recently got a 2019 VRS 245 and was not happy with the sound so installed https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/product-archive/amplifiers/m-5dsp. It looks like according to the manual (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/media/pdf/a2/61/0c/BA_M-5DSP.pdf) I can attach the sub speaker inputs straight from the amp, either using line out (3.5mm) or the subwoofer outputs. I'm a bit clueless on how to power the sub though, using piggyback fuses on the fuseboard in glovebox? If so, which ones?

 

I used a Halfords fuse-tap and just picked up a permanent feed from the fuse box, the sub also has a power switch feed which I picked up the same way but via an ignition fed position. 

1 hour ago, rossinio said:

I may be interested in this subwoofer, I've recently got a 2019 VRS 245 and was not happy with the sound so installed https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/product-archive/amplifiers/m-5dsp. It looks like according to the manual (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/media/pdf/a2/61/0c/BA_M-5DSP.pdf) I can attach the sub speaker inputs straight from the amp, either using line out (3.5mm) or the subwoofer outputs. I'm a bit clueless on how to power the sub though, using piggyback fuses on the fuseboard in glovebox? If so, which ones?

 

I also have one of those amps.  I maybe completely wrong saying this but it was my understanding this amp can only power a passive subwoofer i.e. the subwoofer is powered via the amp.  To do this you must have the m-5dsp connected directly to the battery using an appropriate cable thickness, and also the negative connected directly to the chassis. Because it draws more power, the internal 'plug 'n play' wiring loom is of insufficient thickness to carry the required current ).

 

But isn't the Kenwood amp being sold not an Active amp - i.e. it has it's own power source?  I'm not sure if there's anyway for the 5DSP to send just a signal rather than power + signal. 

Edited 2 January, 20206 yr by Guest

I'm not sure.. the m5dsp has a line out (headphone jack) that you could just add via RCA to the sub. 

 

On another topic, do you have a decent profile file for it for the Octavia? I'm struggling to get mine set up and they don't have one on their profile files page. I don't want to rip apart the door and change the caps on the tweeters to try and get rid of the harshness..

14 hours ago, rossinio said:

I'm not sure.. the m5dsp has a line out (headphone jack) that you could just add via RCA to the sub. 

 

On another topic, do you have a decent profile file for it for the Octavia? I'm struggling to get mine set up and they don't have one on their profile files page. I don't want to rip apart the door and change the caps on the tweeters to try and get rid of the harshness..

 

You may well be right. I really don't know how line-out works, never took any notice of it until you mentioned it there.  The manual says say for connecting additional amps and gives no further info. That's suggest a subwoofer which I assume would need some low pass filter if the signal out is full range. If however someone wished to use external amps to power say the front component speakers...  the question I'm asking myself is I'd hope the 'line out' doesn't mute the existing speaker connection. My amp is tucked neatly away behind the dash - I'll try it when I turn on full power mode in the summer ( when the car's warranty runs out ). Or wait for your answer  

 

I just played around with the settings for 15mins or so after installing it before I got bored ( well it actually took almost an hour as I couldn't get the software to work at first ).  Never used it again since - far too many permutations for my brain. Using std speakers at moment so no matter how much I were to tweak, its never going to sound right. What is does sound tho is x100 better than without the amp. I'll wait until the summer before I tackle the front speakers and then try to fine tune.

 

Still not sure about sub for me tho. I bought a custom fit box which was going cheap for the estate, but having trouble finding a speaker to compliment the power output / box volume so worry it'll be a pointless exercise.  That said I'd have to find an easy way of turning it on/off as the dog isn't going to appreciate it when he travels in the boot.  

 

I'm looking at that page from the sub manual again, looks like it takes high level (speaker) inputs, rather than line out. This means you should use the molex from "subwoofer output" from the m5dsp with ASIA -> subwoofer or splice into rears. If you are using subwoofer out then you can tweak with the DSP software. I'm using medium power atm as do not fancy routing anything from the battery, it was bad enough try to fit the harness behind the main unit..

 

The worst thing about the stereo is definitely the tweeters, with nasty sibilance that was heard straight away. I'm not sure how much EQ is going on from the head unit as volume or road speed is increased either. People do say the standard speakers are "ok" but I had better sound with a cheap alpine head unit and £50 speakers in an older car. The lack of sound insulation means that the best thing you can do is pull apart the doors and add dynamat/silentcount + some closed cell foam (see other threads) before changing the speakers. I also didn't want to drill out rivets (why Skoda?) or fabricate mounts for new speakers.

 

I'm tempted by https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/subwoofers/pp-8e-q as an alternative to an underseat sub but not sure if it can be run in medium power mode.

Without trawling the entire thread, what would be a low cost under seat sub? 

My Kenwood 😀

On 11/06/2019 at 18:22, Ballsy said:

Ands it’s in! So long tinny stereo!

 

Had this same pioneer ts-wx400da installed in my car on Saturday, it actually kicks quite a punch especially for a 9 1/2 " sub, had to take out the under seat glove box that I had (was not using, passenger side) fits like a glove, bedding it in for a while with the gain set to 10 o clock but it does improve the sound & bass definitely a vast improvement over the standard setup & a great affordable mod to the ICE.     

Hi :)

 

first of all, thanks for the post and comments, I’ve found it very helpful, and I think I’m going to buy one of the Kenwoods this week.
 

I got a little lost on the conversations around wiring (may just be me being silly); if you buy the sub and T harness, is it all plug and play (assuming the sun comes with correct wires)? Or do you have to do some proper soldering & wiring? 
 

Ali.

On 02/03/2019 at 01:35, CFBScout said:

I'm pleased with the install as it;as neat and unobtrusive. A little early to say how impressed I am with the sound as it needs to loosen up a bit. I wasn't blown away on the first couple of tests although ti certainly is filling in the low end, more noticeable on DAB radio than via Apple Car Play which is odd. Might need to fiddle around with the settings to get it just right but for £95 I think it's something of a bargain. If I did decide to buy something more substantial, the hard work is done as all the power, earth and speaker taps are done.

 

Turn off Sound Check in the "Music" settings on your iPhone.

 

I found that it 'equalises all tracks' so basically picks the worst sounding then matches it through your whole library.  With Sound Check off, the original bitrate and frequencies stay intact :-)

Hi , As I'm planning to install a sub as per this thread into my Mk3  , can anyone tell me, or show me which removal tools to use to get the CD unit out of the glovebox please?.

Thanks.

 

 

I use this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970313995.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dC0rYGa