Just done car Service.

[LetsGo]

Falco, thanks for the info and video. Unclipped all 6 coil packs (2x CitiGo’s), and managed to lift the rubber connectors. So now I know I can do it. I bought a long thin wall 16mm plug socket,I think the rubber insert is stopping it fit over the hexagon on the plug so not changed the plugs yet.

 

roottoot, thanks for the info, I was thinking it’s always best to check gaps. I did order from a place that specified for the up/CitiGo/Mii, but I will still check.

 

I also cleaned out the area beneath the plastic windscreen wiper cowling of leaves and rotting debris, left and right both cars. Not a lot really, but done it, it’s so simple I can do annually and it should be ok. I don’t park under trees at home, so shouldn’t be too much debri.

 

 

[AGFalco]

3 minutes ago, LetsGo said:

I think the rubber insert is stopping it fit over the hexagon on the plug so not changed the plugs yet.

 

Try the socket on a new spark plug and you might find that to fit it into the socket is a firm push fit.

This is so that when the spark plug is now NOT held in place by the thread it will still be still be stuck in the socket so that you can pull it out of it's hole.

 

Thanks, AG Falco

[LetsGo]

I was trying it on one of the new plugs.  Perhaps I am too cautious (gentle) when I could be a bit more forceful.  Will have another go.

[nta16]

54 minutes ago, LetsGo said:

roottoot, thanks for the info, I was thinking it’s always best to check gaps. I did order from a place that specified for the up/CitiGo/Mii, but I will still check

As I posted this elsewhere on site recently copy and paste of it. -

 

It should also be noted that fine wire plugs should be gapped with the correct tool and that even when brand new the gap should be checked.  Also if the vehicle is modified the plug gap may need adjusting to allow for the modifications.

 

5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS (NGK) -

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

 

SHOULD I GAP MY DENSO PLUGS? (Fine Wire Plugs / Modified Vehicles) –

https://www.densoproducts.com/should-i-gap-my-denso-plugs

 

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPARK PLUG GAP TOOL (Champion) –

https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-gap-tool.html

 

 

Spark Plug Gap - NGK Spark Plugs - Tech Video –

 

 

 

[rum4mo]

You can buy a coil "extractor" which is just a tool that you pass a tapered/wedged part down through the securing screw hole then expand it, then grab the handle grip part - and pull.

 

I bought a Laser Tools version which was not too cheap, but it looks like it was hand made - so buying anywhere cheaply and without a quality branding should work, even AliExpress - if you have the time to wait!

 

Edit:- I already had a Laser Tools roughly 9" long spark plug socket with built in magnets - I had been using that for years on earlier VW Group cars, but when I went to use it on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI for its first plug change - this socket could not get down and onto the hex part of the plugs - the reason was, this 9" long spark plug socket has a hole all the way through/along it, which was big enough to clear "old school" spark plug body profile - but not big enough diameter to allow these newer version of spark plugs fully into it. Laser Tools could not understand this as all their warehouse stock were checked and were okay with newer versions of plugs, so either they changed that "random" hole size after I bought mine, or my one was not to drawing but perfectly useable with "old school" versions of spark plugs - anyway, nothing that a couple of "good" drill bits bought from Machine Mart and lots of cutting fluid could not sort out for the future, for that spark plug change I had to revert to an older spark plug socket and extension.

Edited 3 June, 2022 by rum4mo

[AGFalco]

Ok, done me usual pre winter check on Saturday

 

Fitted new front tyres at 68k miles but swapped to rear.

The two tyres I fitted a year ago went to the front, hardly any wear on them after 10K miles.

I now have the same make/ tread pattern all round.

Definitely better wet grip / turn in on these.

Checked / adjusted the front toe as it was a little out.

 

All brakes at 68K and are still original from new from 2016.

Front brake pads at 6 mm and rear pads at 5mm, with all brakes stripped, cleaned and regreased.

All disk faces are clean, flat and have no rust spots/patches high points. All are original brake parts.

A small rusty lip has started. Photos are after the strip down.

 

First photo is front and second is rear.

 

 

 

 

 

So brakes are about half worn. 😲

 

Car still good.

 

Thanks, AG Falco

 

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

More effort than I'd give the car, and great longevity, well done.

 

Just for info perhaps, If that's copper grease it's no longer recommended for (modern) brakes.

 

Edited 28 November, 2022 by nta16
ETA: Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

[AGFalco]

59 minutes ago, nta16 said:

If that's copper grease

 Keep away from any rubber boots / seals.

 

Thanks, AG Falco

[nta16]

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Many years back I bought a small tin of Copperease that would have lasted me a hundred lifetimes but now it'll be ten-thousand.

 

I was thinking more about this. - https://www.autotorque.news/the-aftermarket/technical-talk/delphi-does-not-recommend-the-use-of-copper-grease/

 

https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr

 

 

 

[rum4mo]

My big tin of Copaslip - for use on furnace bolts - it says on the tin, has been with me since the late 1970's, not much use for it nowadays as I've moved across to Ceramic brake grease.

 

One thing that I noticed when replacing the engine oil in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, was that the sump plug was "gripping slightly" when screwed back in, every time I've changed the oil I have used a torque wrench set to the correct torque level, so I can't easily explain why that was started happening, I checked another sump plug and it felt the same no obvious thread damage on either of these sump plugs, if I had realised that the wheel bolts use the same thread size, I could have run a tap that size down that sump plug hole, something I will remember to do next year at oil change time!

Edited 29 November, 2022 by rum4mo

[AGFalco]

MOT done 2 weeks ago.

Just an advisory on the front lower suspension arm rear bushes beginning to be worn.

No movement in the arm so I will just monitor for now.

 

 

Eighth Service done today at 72 K miles.

A little less milage in the last year than previous years.

 

This included oil and oil filter, air filter, cabin filter and spark plugs.

4 Litres of oil with no top up required between services except before the first service.

As usual for me I changed the air filter as you have to take the air filter housing off to do the spark plugs.

 

Battery still good for 7 years old, coolant good and brake fluid good, all tested.

Brakes now more than half worn, will need to change them after about 100 K miles from new.

 

Tracking checked but is OK.

Tyres wearing well, I now have the same make tread pattern all round.

Proving to be a good choice with better wet grip than previous tyres I have had.

5.5 mm on the fronts and 7 mm on the rears.

 

Service and Inspection warning reset.

Updated service record on Erwin.

Scanned for faults none showing.

 

Nothing else noted.

 

Car still good.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

 

 

 

 

 

[Hassan_skoda]

I haven't changed the Spark since the car was made in 2016 because the car has only 29000 Km on it. However, I have decided to change it anyway today. Please see the picture of spark plugs. Was it too late to change plugs or do they look ok?

Edited 28 May, 2023 by Hassan_skoda

[AGFalco]

7 hours ago, Hassan_skoda said:

Was it too late to change plugs or do they look ok?

 

Look OK, but worth doing.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

[Hassan_skoda]

1 hour ago, AGFalco said:

 

Look OK, but worth doing.

 

Thanks. AG Falco

I encountered a discrepancy in torque specifications of the spark plugs. NGK told me by email that the torque should be between 7 - 15 ft-lbs but I have noted the torque while unscrewing the plugs. Skoda has used the torque 20 ft-lbs on all plugs. Do you know the right torque specs as I couldn't find it in maintaince Manual?

 

 

Edited 28 May, 2023 by Hassan_skoda

[rum4mo]

I've used 22Nm - so that would have come from the official VW workshop manual for the engine.

[nta16]

2 hours ago, Hassan_skoda said:

I encountered a discrepancy in torque specifications of the spark plugs. NGK told me by email that the torque should be between 7 - 15 ft-lbs but I have noted the torque while unscrewing the plugs. Skoda has used the torque 20 ft-lbs on all plugs. Do you know the right torque specs as I couldn't find it in maintaince Manual?

Are you sure you mean ft-lbs and not Newton Metres.  NGK for my wife's car's plugs has 15-20Nm "torque dry thread".

 

My personal opinion, as a general rule of thumb when comparing Japanese with German engineering go with Japanese 11 times out of 10, having put that I don't know who own NGK now..

 

[Hassan_skoda]

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

Are you sure you mean ft-lbs and not Newton Metres.  NGK for my wife's car's plugs has 15-20Nm "torque dry thread".

 

My personal opinion, as a general rule of thumb when comparing Japanese with German engineering go with Japanese 11 times out of 10, having put that I don't know who own NGK now..

 

I'm positive that all factory set sparkplugs opened at 20 ft-lbs (27Nm). So, I have used the same torque on new ones. What would be the side affect of overtightening and is there way to confirm sparkplugs won't damage piston heads ? 

Edited 29 May, 2023 by Hassan_skoda

[Breezy_Pete]

The torque required to undo a plug is irrelevant to the correct tightening torque. 

Adding your engine code to the discussion may help in finding the relevant spec, but if you haven't stripped any threads, everything will be fine.

[Hassan_skoda]

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The torque required to undo a plug is irrelevant to the correct tightening torque. 

Adding your engine code to the discussion may help in finding the relevant spec, but if you haven't stripped any threads, everything will be fine.

Engine Code = CJZC

[Breezy_Pete]

I don't have the relevant document for mk3 Fabia, but others will confirm.

Definitely not a good idea to undo them just to tighten them again to spec though, unless they were under-tightened.

[nta16]

CJZC / CJZD shows as 22Nm - but as always double check and cross reference any information you get from any source especially the internet.

 

I'm not sure how many average DIY (or garage?) used torque wrenches would be reliably accurate/precise at 22Nm anyway, I know I wouldn't trust my cheap torque wrench to be that accurate/precise if I was concerned I'd borrow a mate's professional use torque wrench that gets tested every year but some can set up their own at home anyway to at least be accurate at one amount.

 

I'm not a mechanic or engineer or expert in anything just personally I'd leave them unless they cause any issues or you just can't have a peaceful mind in which case replace them with new spark plugs.

 

One example of what's on the internet on the subject but unless you know your torque wrench is spot on at 22Nm it's all a bit ball-park anyway. - https://www.aftermarketnews.com/the-importance-of-proper-spark-plug-torquing/

 

" . . . dead on balls accurate" -

 

 

 

[J.R.]

22 hours ago, Hassan_skoda said:

Was it too late to change plugs or do they look ok?

 

Yes too late, remove them and put the old ones back in 🤣

 

4 hours ago, Hassan_skoda said:

is there way to confirm sparkplugs won't damage piston heads ? 

 

On second thoughts remove them and dont put any spark plugs back in 🤣

 

Being serious now, you could overtorque the spark plugs and strip the threads and ther would still be zero risk of them hitting the piston crown.

Edited 29 May, 2023 by J.R.