Just now, Tech1e said:

 

But what does it protect down to? That's more important than it's colour.

you suggest i should change it?

 

18 minutes ago, Roottootemoot said:

It was not for the thread, not the thread into the head anyway.

 

Have you checked the gap on the plugs coming out, what are they?

then check the new plugs preset gap.

you getting me worried now regarding gap size, will i be ok with the new denso ones?

 

also im bit worried abou tthe grease on the coil too, i havent applied any onto them.

Don't worry about the grease, that was for the next plug change. Just an old habit with me.

 

Sorry i do not know your engine, anything on the plugs or gap but a grown up will be along shortly i hope.

 

@Wino maybe can help.

 

PS

Re Coolant, get a tester to see the ratio / strength is still OK for winter / and the summer coolant bit.

Edited 14 September, 20196 yr by Roottootemoot

8 minutes ago, Roottootemoot said:

Don't worry about the grease, that was for the next plug change. Just an old habit with me.

 

Sorry i do not know your engine, anything on the plugs or gap but a grown up will be along shortly i hope.

 

@Wino maybe can help.

 

PS

Re Coolant, get a tester to see the ratio / strength is still OK for winter / and the summer coolant bit.

i have asked the ebay seller what the gap size is.

 

which antifreeze tester do you recommend?

Refractometer

10 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

Refractometer

that looks awesome! didnt think you could get battery ones

You will be wanting a Brake Fluid tester for H20 next.

1 minute ago, Roottootemoot said:

You will be wanting a Brake Fluid tester for H20 next.

i have only just changed my break fluid so i think il be ok for now but thank you though  

Froggy8 will be a Master Tech by the end of today with all this advice. He must be loaded owning that Bank.

11 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

i have only just changed my break fluid so i think il be ok for now but thank you though  

 

Is that like your brake fluid? 😛

1 minute ago, Tech1e said:

 

Is that like your brake fluid? 😛

i cant believe i have just done that, i have a thing for grammers and i did just that   sorry yeah i meant to write brake lol

3 minutes ago, shyVRS245 said:

Froggy8 will be a Master Tech by the end of today with all this advice. He must be loaded owning that Bank.

yeah this site is awesome! i have learnt so much  

1 hour ago, Tech1e said:

Refractometer

bought it  

2 hours ago, shyVRS245 said:

Only for a complete novice or .................

 

Well, there was a Japanese guy on a Polo forum, who had this problem on a BBY engine, his way round this problem was to unscrew that tool handle and bolt on a heavy plate with 2 forcing screws!!  That worked, though initially the metal screen and the rubber insulator remained stuck onto the plug - but he managed to retrieve them and reassemble the coil assembly.

1 hour ago, froggy8 said:

i have asked the ebay seller what the gap size is.

 

 

I think that the implied cunning trick is to actually measure the spark gap, okay if they are exactly the correct spark plug for this engine, then they should come pre gapped, but I've never found it to be a disadvantage to make sure they start life in my cars with the correct gap.  So, note that for the future.

1 hour ago, froggy8 said:

that looks awesome! didnt think you could get battery ones

 

You've forgotten to mention the scale for windscreen washing fluid!  Probably give the battery side of things a miss with this tool, you'd need to start drilling holes!!

Will he need some blinker fluid soon?

 

Thanks AG Falco

On 14/09/2019 at 15:12, froggy8 said:

i have asked the ebay seller what the gap size is

Is it silly to ask why you don't measure and adjust that yourself?

You need to know what the gap should be and then if you are adjusting a pregaped plug which they all are take care doing that.

You can check new plugs and find them off the pregaped gap, having had a careless knock.  Different from a careless whisper.

Also worth noting that if the original single electrode plugs are say 0.8 mm and are replacing with multi electrode plugs it doesn't mean you should set the multi electrode plugs to the same. In that situation I would go with the manufacturers spec on the side of the packaging.

Edited 16 September, 20196 yr by Tech1e

I have really enjoyed this thread, its nice to see someone learning and actually doing it themselves. I imagine OP is a young lad and we all had to start somewhere. 

 

OP buy a set of feeler gauges very cheap and useful. £2.99 at screwfix.

 

or save 1p only £2.98 at Toolstation. https://www.toolstation.com/draper-feeler-gauge/p70627

 

Well, when started to go metric on car tools, I bought a big fat set of S-P feelers from Halfords, only the best would do - they, at that time were just an imperial set re-marked with lots of funky metric equivalent sizes, so not logical 0.05mm etc stuff like the one shown above - very very annoying that was, and still is!

hi guys

 

i was just being lazy as to take the plugs out again to measure them so that is why i asked the seller on ebay.

8 hours ago, Tech1e said:

Also worth noting that if the original single electrode plugs are say 0.8 mm and are replacing with multi electrode plugs it doesn't mean you should set the multi electrode plugs to the same. In that situation I would go with the manufacturers spec on the side of the packaging.

you saying both should have different size gap?

3 hours ago, froggy8 said:

you saying both should have different size gap?

 

From what I have been taught, yes. Multi  electrode plugs behave in a different way to single electrode plugs. 

since replacing the plugs i have travelled 300 miles. i think i will be fine.

10 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

 

From what I have been taught, yes. Multi  electrode plugs behave in a different way to single electrode plugs. 

thank you  

10 hours ago, Tech1e said:

Multi  electrode plugs behave in a different way to single electrode

I've never had multi-electrode plugs, but that's my understanding too. More specifically, the spark always jumps the shortest gap, so if electrode 1 erodes, it will start to use electrode 2, then 3, and then maybe go back to 1 or 2...

All in the name of extending service intervals obviously.