Hi 

 

My waterpump are stucked and the car is overheating, it my second pump now on the 160000 km so I was thinking off buying a hepu waterpump with out the open/close wheel cover, 

 

Anyone tried one or another that isn't original to see if the last

Not yet had any overheating  but I'm interested in the potential problems.

I see the pictures show pumps with plastic and metal impellers. Is there any problem with fitting a water pump without this open/close cover affair, if one is available.  

No it's all the same as original but with out the cover, 

 

I am maybe going to mount a original due to missing information about the pump

I guess gone are the days when a water pump gave little trouble.... A drip of water, a noisy bearing gave warning that replacement was due. More and more moving parts in the system nowadays, a recipe for expensive failure.

You are absolute right

Is the sleeve thermostatically controlled or servo (or something else?) controlled?

If thermostatically then you should be able to fit the non-sleeve model. It will just take much longer to warm up so not good for short journeys.

Yes, Sleeze probably got something to do quicker warm up and emissions crap.

I must read the TDI water pump failure sticky when I'm in the mood. 

@benterrier sleeve stays shut causing the water to circulate round the block only. Once warm the sleeve opens allowing water through to the rad. Probably find in normal driving the temp will rise then drop off a touch as the sleeve opens.

It is all about parts designed-to-fail. If we're talking about water pumps, all they have to do is to NOT grease the bearings. Easy for them yet disastrous for us. No legislator seems to care enough to issue laws so that manufacturers pay through their nose for each repair. Would they keep "forgetting" to properly grease and manufacture the parts when all repair bills from garages would pile at their door?

I haven't looked on any other relevant forums but do VW golfs and Passat's fitted with these engines have the same problems.

As well as the block, there is I believe a second stat. 
 

if there is, which keeps the radiators closed off then removing the sleeve here would result in longer warm up but not a disaster.

 

if it’s the only stat then yes a big problem.

 

 

if the first, I’d consider a stick on electric block heater for the cold mornings and go with it.

 

if the latter I would avoid like the plague.

Noticed this morning the cars heater warms up quite quickly comparing it with the temperature gauge. It took 7 miles before it reached 90c. Is this another benefit? of this type of water pump by VAG. Its something I would choose to do without in favour of pump failure.

That’s one of the reasons for the clever pump 

9 minutes ago, benterrier said:

 It took 7 miles before it reached 90c.

Water temp gauge or oil temp in the maxi dot ?

Water temp gauge.

On 28/11/2019 at 22:11, Octaviadk said:

Hi 

 

My waterpump are stucked and the car is overheating, it my second pump now on the 160000 km so I was thinking off buying a hepu waterpump with out the open/close wheel cover, 

 

Anyone tried one or another that isn't original to see if the last

Sorry Octaviadk for hijacking your post. Hope someone comes along with advice. 

Hi its OK, I have already mounter the original but if this 4 gen pump fail I will put in a hepu pump. 

 

The newest pump from vw is fra the 01/09_19 and ends with the letter p

From what I can seen the after market has deleted the sleave  this could be eader a improvement or a work around for the pump sleave set up is a pierberg design they don’t have rights for . Appears you transfer the control solenoid from the old pump and doing so car thinks the sleave is been activated Octaviadk when was your second pump fitted ?

This Thursday I did it my self

In the good old days waterpumps always had a heater bypass outlet so that the heater would get warm water as soon as it was produced way before the thermostat finally opened, it also aided circulation while the stat waqs closed and avoided hot spots on the cylinder head casting.

 

Finally if a thermostat failed closed, which they never did as they were a failsafe design, but if that were to happen you could limp home with the heater on full.

 

Then emissions became the sole priority and commen sense went out the window, me I would prefer a warm car to one that kangaroos, clogs DPF's and requires emissions cheat software to run half properly.

Brilliant post J.R. Wants putting on the VAG notice board.

I never realised until Scout 151 post that the sleeve  was electrically controlled.

IT would be interesting to see the behaviour of the ECU when you fit the actuator but it doesnt control the real sleeve.

You wont set the position error which indicates the sleeve sticking but perhaps there is some current monitoring or coolant temperature plausability based on the position of the valve.

It might also be less effective for countries with cold winters as the coolant might never reach operating temperature.

 

The main driver for a feature like this is emissions. Get the engine warm quickly to reduce emsissions on the cycle.

I'm pretty sure most manufacturers have electronic temperature control these days, whether it is the grill shutter style mechanical control or electronically controlled thermostats to reroute the coolant for optimum temperatures.