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Performance air filters

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Hey!

 

Have read lots about the induction kits for this engine appears to be very few options plus mixed reviews on the ITG & Forge kit enough to put me off both for now, wonder I did wonder was changing just the air filter to a performance one there are 3 I have been looking at K&N E-2997, Revo & Pipercross PX1819, seem to vary in prices Revo being the most wondering if anyone has any experience with any of these also if will make an difference performance wise both good or bad??

 

Cheers

 

Azz

 

23 hours ago, ArranMac1 said:

Hey!

 

Have read lots about the induction kits for this engine appears to be very few options plus mixed reviews on the ITG & Forge kit enough to put me off both for now, wonder I did wonder was changing just the air filter to a performance one there are 3 I have been looking at K&N E-2997, Revo & Pipercross PX1819, seem to vary in prices Revo being the most wondering if anyone has any experience with any of these also if will make an difference performance wise both good or bad??

 

Cheers

 

Azz

 

 

I've ran the forge for a year now, originally I had it set up as it comes then flipped it to get the correct or more improved air flow, I read the same reviews on here and to personally me they were a lot of bo**ock's, I read posts saying the original filter was better than the forge etc it actually  lost you power. I just couldn't get it into my head that a huge performance based company could produce a bolt on that was actually worse than standard?

 

I didn't listen to the reviews and went my own way, I'm currently stage 2....All figures in terms of air flow are correct using the forge albeit I've flipped it and relocated the battery.

 

You seem to have missed the RTMG filter? This is probably the most expensive of the lot but having seen it in use on Skoda, Audi and Seat and If I had the choice id be going for the RTMG all day long and looks awesome too.

 

Heres how mine currently sits:

 

9FDF9C0C-4604-45A7-98BA-0671A23E2BBB.thumb.jpeg.a9aabdb715a906aafb74d392893d09bc.jpeg

 

 

It did look a lot neater with the engine cover on, Due to installing an oil catch an I had to remove the cover.

 

CA78E002-4E64-44EC-B28B-BF93EB1FF43E.thumb.jpeg.a576adc5c62d0fd31e0b482952c9aa0d.jpeg

@Mickmartin

What was the improvement over standard in performance with that Forge Induction set up with the factory map when you dynoed it?

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/202991-changing-air-filter-mk2-fabia-vrs-tsi-guide

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/366023-kn-filter-for-vrsgti

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/232929-which-one-to-buy-and-how-to-fit-it-air-filter

 

Edited by Roottootemblowinootsoot

1 hour ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

 

Any testing I've had done has been on road and live using VCDS, VCDS has a MAF check function and the ability to use the MAF measuring block system(I'm sure its block 003) and produce a log in graph form showing air flow and temp, Baring in mind if there's and failures in air flow or slips below the variable the MAF sensor will throw up a code as it would end up in fuelling issues. We never done any logs on the standard filter to be quite honest only when fitting the filter and a BOV, This was then double checked a few months ago by RTMG and the logs were sent to Greece to be scrutinised by the employees there before sending back the map, All air flow/fuel injection was spot on and allowed them to remap me to stage 2, It was hit or miss with being able to remap the car on the day as there was a suspected boost leak so hence the reason everything was checked over.

 

I've never put it on the rollers for the simple case that I don't need my car to hit a peak figure, Using "road mapping" has never been an issue for me, When it comes a time to sell the car and I need proof of power or a figure to boost the sale I'll throw it on the rollers for £40.

 

 

Edited by Mickmartin

  • Author

@Mickmartin

 

Wow looks awesome so from what I can see you have just turned it over from what I remember the filter was up the top, did you have any issues getting it along side your battery?

 

Slightly off topic any experience with the radiators mine has a leak had someone come out to do after about 30mins let me know its going to be an all day job which took the cost too out of my price range, basically told me the whole front of the car had to come off including the wings from what he could tell trying to get access to fixing bolts for other bits?? Now looking about £400-£500 for new rad???!!! At the mo to keep me going I its been treated to some Kseal & new flush of coolant.

 

Need to pay you a visit me thinks know more than idea, still cannot get anyone to be more confident on my odd running issue either give up at the mo spent money on now 5 diagnostics still no closer just lots of it could be 😭

31 minutes ago, ArranMac1 said:

@Mickmartin

 

Wow looks awesome so from what I can see you have just turned it over from what I remember the filter was up the top, did you have any issues getting it along side your battery?

 

Slightly off topic any experience with the radiators mine has a leak had someone come out to do after about 30mins let me know its going to be an all day job which took the cost too out of my price range, basically told me the whole front of the car had to come off including the wings from what he could tell trying to get access to fixing bolts for other bits?? Now looking about £400-£500 for new rad???!!! At the mo to keep me going I its been treated to some Kseal & new flush of coolant.

 

Need to pay you a visit me thinks know more than idea, still cannot get anyone to be more confident on my odd running issue either give up at the mo spent money on now 5 diagnostics still no closer just lots of it could be 😭

 

Yeah it basically flips the filter 90 degrees and gives you a more direct/straight air flow, To flip it you need to buy a battery relocation tray either from RTMG for £70 or make on yourself like I did albeit it took me a weekend.

 

New RAD will cost you £70 from eurocarparts, There's no need to remove the wings as its a front bumper/headlights off job only. I managed to pry the RAD out without removing the intercooler and AC unit too which will save you time, In terms of time..... A good mechanic will do it I about 2-3 hours as once you find your way round the car and gather how things come apart it becomes so much easier.

 

You ever get that issue sorted then? I've got my own to worry about lol as my O/S front calliper has seized on! So fitting a new calliper and bleeding the brake will be my job this weekend.

Edited by Mickmartin

1 hour ago, Mickmartin said:

 

Any testing I've had done has been on road and live using VCDS, VCDS has a MAF check function and the ability to use the MAF measuring block system(I'm sure its block 003) and produce a log in graph form showing air flow and temp, Baring in mind if there's and failures in air flow or slips below the variable the MAF sensor will throw up a code as it would end up in fuelling issues. We never done any logs on the standard filter to be quite honest only when fitting the filter and a BOV, This was then double checked a few months ago by RTMG and the logs were sent to Greece to be scrutinised by the employees there before sending back the map, All air flow/fuel injection was spot on and allowed them to remap me to stage 2, It was hit or miss with being able to remap the car on the day as there was a suspected boost leak so hence the reason everything was checked over.

 

I've never put it on the rollers for the simple case that I don't need my car to hit a peak figure, Using "road mapping" has never been an issue for me, When it comes a time to sell the car and I need proof of power or a figure to boost the sale I'll throw it on the rollers for £40.

 

 

 

I'm confused as to why you would spend all that money and have a stage 2 map and not put it on the rollers to see what you paid for.

  • Author

@Mickmartin

 

Ah sounding too complicated for me again creating a battery tray. 

 

Yeah he quoted 2-3hrs originally for rad but has said from looking he will have to remove intercooler & ac to get rad out 🙄

 

Next place I asked about the rad quoted £180 just for the rad!! 

 

Nope still no further ahead almost £200 spent on diagnostics with different people all I am getting is may be this maybe that! Don't have the money for that, I'd go down the sensor route ie crankshaft/camshaft due to my gap in crankshaft sensor showing on last live diagnostic but no idea where or what I am looking for. 

 

Fecking car might just set it on fire 🔥

11 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

I'm confused as to why you would spend all that money and have a stage 2 map and not put it on the rollers to see what you paid for.

 

It’s a simple case of trusting the professionalism of RTMG, seeing live logs, watching them tune your car in front of your face and understanding what they’re doing.

 

And trust me when the power is there you know it, Ask my front tyres😂

 

 

 

 

25 minutes ago, ArranMac1 said:

@Mickmartin

 

Ah sounding too complicated for me again creating a battery tray. 

 

Yeah he quoted 2-3hrs originally for rad but has said from looking he will have to remove intercooler & ac to get rad out 🙄

 

Next place I asked about the rad quoted £180 just for the rad!! 

 

Nope still no further ahead almost £200 spent on diagnostics with different people all I am getting is may be this maybe that! Don't have the money for that, I'd go down the sensor route ie crankshaft/camshaft due to my gap in crankshaft sensor showing on last live diagnostic but no idea where or what I am looking for. 

 

Fecking car might just set it on fire 🔥


 

Its £92 for the radiator just now without the discount , I’ve ran that radiator for a couple of years and it’s been sound.

07D5D45F-FF05-4294-BEB9-78736AB5E3E2.jpeg

7 minutes ago, Mickmartin said:

 

It’s a simple case of trusting the professionalism of RTMG, seeing live logs, watching them tune your car in front of your face and understanding what they’re doing.

 

And trust me when the power is there you know it, Ask my front tyres😂

 

 

 

 

 

I understand you trusting them etc etc, but surely you would want to know the new BHP / Torque figures (meet what they claim)  well I certainly would..........and to be fair when tuning a car, it should ideally be done on a rolling road as every car is different and it can be setup as per each vehicle as opposed to being loaded with a generic map.

21 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

I understand you trusting them etc etc, but surely you would want to know the new BHP / Torque figures (meet what they claim)  well I certainly would..........and to be fair when tuning a car, it should ideally be done on a rolling road as every car is different and it can be setup as per each vehicle as opposed to being loaded with a generic map.


What happens with RTMG is they log your car as standard, it’s gets sent to the head office in Greece and they compare your standard log to their standard log and at the point Mr RTMG devises/ edits their base stage 1/2 map to safely suit your set up and it’s sent back to the uk to be loaded into your car, It’s generic in a sense however it’s Tweaked by both the guys at the head office and then by Christos from RTMG right in front of you and then the updated (Fun)ecu logs begin.

 

I can understand how one would be sceptical, Fortunately a friend Demo’s a car for them and through Facebook I’ve got to see a whole range of vag cars tuned by them including at least half a dozen Fabias.

 

I think they done 4 or 5 cars when we had a meet up here scotland.

 

 

I got a pipercross one you mentioned and I've just swapped it. resuable as less resistance is why. Got it for around 42 quid on eBay rather than 60 and honestly there not a massive difference but it does feel a bit smother and more responsive. Definitely won't make anything worse.

 

I don't know how relevant it is, but I changed my Air filter to a K&N one on a rolling road 10 years ago.  My mk1 Fabia gained a massive 1.1 BHP (0.5%) from standard. However I was told it may increase over time. Ik am still glad I did it.

 

Being Petrol I don't know if the Mk2 will gain more power, I'd hope it will.

A K&N filter in a standard air box increases nothing over time other than fuel consumption as it gets less air in as it clogs /  gets dirty, until you clean it properly and re-treat or bin them.

 

The Police Vehicles and others Emergency vehicles that have them fitted so that they might be safer if in water get the Filters Binned at servicing and not cleaned and treated.

 

Now a K&N with a new air intake (Move the Battery to the Boot and have the same space as a Polo GTI Twincharger.)

and get plenty cool air can work while the K&N is clean.  That is a good Twincharger mod, tried and tested.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/441253-question-about-k57s-installation

 

Edited by Roottootemblowinootsoot

I've run the forge set up for about 8mths noticeable pick up over standard but she's stage 1.haven't decided to move filter closer to intake yet

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