20 hours ago, patrolman said:

If your having trouble lifting it up do what we used to do on trucks put the wheel on a shovel slide up lift the handle and drop on to the hub 

 

No problems lifting, like Boxerboy I have had 5 decades of practice, shovel gets used on HGV's, gates & doors with lift off hinges.

 

Shins ankles & feet do the job of lifting and holding the wheel in place, with their advancing years they would prefer 10kg of wheel & tyre to the stupidities that are fitted in the name of fashion and totally unsuitable for the state of repair of the UK roads & even on our by comparison excellent roads give a poxy ride.

On 07/04/2020 at 15:40, SuperbTWM said:

Snip                       -------           Snip.

 

The real fun starts when there is no screw in the brake disc, then you end up trying to line up 3 sets of holes instead 2

 

 

 

Someone making that comment probably owned a B5 Passat/Superb in the past? 

 

At least the Passat B5 came with a plastic locator in the tool roll!

 

Why did VW Group think that was acceptable!

On 07/04/2020 at 20:28, john999boy said:

I've also been using 120Nm. Did a check and found out the Cupra needs 140Nm too!

Thanks @xman 🔧

 

Snip   ---   Snip

 

Oh, that is news to me, did you get that from the official SEAT Leon workshop manual?  I'll need to take a look as I fitted daughter's winter wheels at 120Nm same as my Audi S4 and wife's VW Polo and everything else VW Group in the past!

41 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Oh, that is news to me, did you get that from the official SEAT Leon workshop manual?  I'll need to take a look as I fitted daughter's winter wheels at 120Nm same as my Audi S4 and wife's VW Polo and everything else VW Group in the past!

Lol. My ambiguous bad.

I checked with the Cupra Ateca manual.

The Leon Cupra is still 120Nm. 

Phew, but that does not solve the fact that I failed to find that info in the workshop manual!

Ah I found it in Maintenance - not where I was getting directed by the text in other areas though, so that is that sorted out.

 

Edit:- I would add that "120Nm" for the Leon Cupra was initially used as that was what my 2011 Audi S4 uses and 2015 VW Polo, so on thinking about it now, it was a correct guess, but I should have found it written down somewhere and not made a guess!

Edited 10 April, 20206 yr by rum4mo

I know I'm getting older with only 9 months to my pension but the wheels on our SEL are bloody heavy.

 

Swapped my winter alloys over today and I was stuck by the weight difference - the winters (old Audi alloys) weigh in at 18kg each where as the Skoda OEM's are almost 24kg each. 

On 09/04/2020 at 15:23, Kenny R said:

I certainly haven’t been able to get the wheel to sit on the hub on my previous Yeti or the Kodiaq as the lip to sit on is much smaller than the one in your picture. Hence the reason I bought the alignment tool.

 

Not sure what model your Yeti was, but there is quite a significant lip on their hubs with the disc in situ to hold an alloy wheel in place...

 

 

 

Is your image from your Kodiaq?

10 hours ago, silver1011 said:

 

Not sure what model your Yeti was, but there is quite a significant lip on their hubs with the disc in situ to hold an alloy wheel in place...

 

 

 

Is your image from your Kodiaq?

No, my picture is from my Yeti when I upgraded to 312 mm discs.

If you look closely at the bottom picture you posted you will see how little the wheel centre goes on the hub from the clean area where the coppasip has been removed where the wheel has been fitted.

Thanks Kenny, I've not had the wheels off my Kodiaq yet, so if the lip is as small as that in your picture I too will look to invest in one of the stays.

 

All my previous Skoda's have had enough of a lip to hold the weight of the wheel on the hub (with my foot pressing the base of the tyre) for me to get the first bolt in without issue, however the Kodiaq is my first car on 19" alloys and bigger SUV tyres so will no doubt be much heavier.

£7 is a small price to pay for the amount of effort it saves.

I bought mine many years ago after lots of recommendations in the Yeti section, and certainly makes the task of changing winter/ summer wheels much easier.

Edited 12 May, 20206 yr by Kenny R

On 12/05/2020 at 12:50, silver1011 said:

Thanks Kenny, I've not had the wheels off my Kodiaq yet, so if the lip is as small as that in your picture I too will look to invest in one of the stays.

 

All my previous Skoda's have had enough of a lip to hold the weight of the wheel on the hub (with my foot pressing the base of the tyre) for me to get the first bolt in without issue, however the Kodiaq is my first car on 19" alloys and bigger SUV tyres so will no doubt be much heavier.

My Kodiaq wheels snugged onto the hubs ok.

 

By “just” lifting the tyre clear of the ground, there’s virtually no lifting required. Pop the wheel on the hub, a wee turn to line up the holes, pop a bolt in.

 

Some wheel designs do not allow much room for fingers, so it’s often easier to insert the bolts using a socket on an extension bar.

 

I like to get a turn or two on the bolt before putting the impact gun anywhere near them when fitting. Avoids a crossed thread.

Edited 15 May, 20206 yr by BoxerBoy

Just got the wheels off mine putting copper grease on the mating surfaces, painting the hubs silver hammerite and wax polishing the inside of the rims ( sad case of OCD I know !).

 

The usual struggle aligning the rim on the hub so I've bought one of these tools.

 

The website compatibility checker says it's not suitable but reading the comments above I'm guessing it is.......?

 

Thanks for the link.

Also ordered one of these wheel fitting guide tool thingies.  And seeing Boxer Boy’s pics reminds meM got to find my old extendable wheel wrench after taking it out my last car.  The wheels have been on since the car was built 13 months ago so hopefully the wheels will come off ok and that the bolts have not been over torqued. 

Or apply weight in the form of vertical loading, ie stand on wheel brace. 

Always apply the loading to the wheelbrace with the handle intersecting the centreline (hub) of the wheel that way it puts the minimum turning moment on the wheel which may cause it to roll off a jack or axle stands, if the wheel is free rotating the above done with a sharp reversing movement will snug them up tight & you can do the final tightening on the floor.

 

The advice is even more important when trying to remove stubborn wheelnuts, in that case its safer to do on the ground but you will need to roll the car to get all the nuts in the right position or otherwise be lifting or pulling rather than pushing down.

Edited 7 September, 20205 yr by J.R.

I always slacken off nuts bolts when the car is still firmly on the ground.  Will keep in mind the tip about the handle.  Mind you, I’m going to get a local garage to put the tyres on the rims, so might get them to swap the summers for winters on the car at the same time.  Not worried re being to hot for winters, lots of peeps run around in winters all summer as it never gets that warm up here.