I have just put new air filter in and was about to do spark plugs when i noticed was full of white powder in no.1 and lead was not on properly since i first start driving it no. 2 seems to be oil on top havent checked since cant remove spark plug 1 to change but car is working perfectly fine to my knowledge. Thank you

 

its a 2005 1.4 

any tips on getting oil filter off without size 23 socket?

18 minutes ago, Skrrrda said:

 ...any tips on getting oil filter off without size 23 socket?

 

Yes, just hammer a screwdriver through it and twist.

26 minutes ago, Skrrrda said:

was about to do spark plugs when i noticed was full of white powder

 

Plug has probably been loose for some time, allowing combustion gases to escape up the thread clearance clogging it up with aluminium oxide as those gases corrode the aluminium and have now jammed the plug in.  Drip some oil or penetrating fluid in there, wait a few hours, then gently try alternately tightening and loosening the plug just a little. Then add a few more drops of oil and keep working it back and forth a little more.  Patience and a gentle touch should eventually allow the plug out without damaging the thread in the head.

 

Or just leave that plug in and hope that it lasts longer than the rest of the car.

 

Safe to spray lubricating oil into the spark plug?

4 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

Plug has probably been loose for some time, allowing combustion gases to escape up the thread clearance clogging it up with aluminium oxide as those gases corrode the aluminium and have now jammed the plug in.  Drip some oil or penetrating fluid in there, wait a few hours, then gently try alternately tightening and loosening the plug just a little. Then add a few more drops of oil and keep working it back and forth a little more.  Patience and a gentle touch should eventually allow the plug out without damaging the thread in the head.

 

Or just leave that plug in and hope that it lasts longer than the rest of the car.

 

 

5 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

Plug has probably been loose for some time, allowing combustion gases to escape up the thread clearance clogging it up with aluminium oxide as those gases corrode the aluminium and have now jammed the plug in.  Drip some oil or penetrating fluid in there, wait a few hours, then gently try alternately tightening and loosening the plug just a little. Then add a few more drops of oil and keep working it back and forth a little more.  Patience and a gentle touch should eventually allow the plug out without damaging the thread in the head.

 

Or just leave that plug in and hope that it lasts longer than the rest of the car.

 

Are you saying I should plug in the ignition lead that has never been pushed in before without changing sparkplug

Just a drop or three, yes, clean oil isn't conductive.

1 minute ago, Skrrrda said:

Are you saying I should plug in the ignition lead that has never been pushed in before without changing sparkplug

I was only thinking about getting that stuck plug out, hadn't considered your ignition lead. 

Which 1.4 engine is this? Engine code is on the build sticker on the boot floor. There are several different 1.4 petrol engines used in Fabias. I wasn't aware that any in 2005 had ignition leads, unless you mean pencil coilpack?

 

it is the coilpack we are talking about here yes my bad😂

Photos of what you're seeing are always helpful to let us know what we're dealing with.

 

 

 

There’s rubber and oil and it’s a big mess I don’t even see a spark plug to be honest

If you look up that coil pack from the tip, compared to one of the others are there bits pulled or broken off, and stuck to the spark plug?

Edited 22 April, 20206 yr by Wino

It looks like the alloy cap on the plug has corroded, possibly due to the coilpack not being correctly fitted and spark eroding the alloy leading to the white oxide powder forming.

Try blowing the plug clean with a high pressure air jet to get all that crap out of there then add some penetrating oil to soak the thread before trying to remove the plug as Wino suggests.

I imagine the coil pack contact may also show signs of erosion if you look into that end.

 

That looks horrible.

On 22/04/2020 at 20:55, sepulchrave said:

 

Yes, just hammer a screwdriver through it and twist.

Handy one🙏 Have to remember that one

gave it a spray of compressed air. I did not have much. Also a drop or 3 in there it seems that there may be bits of rubber on top of where spark plug goes?

still no clue of removing spark plug

 

anyway how Do i remove the remaining 3 coil leads to change spark 2,3,4? Do i undo the screw or do they briskly pop up?

5 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

That looks horrible.

Tell me about it🙄

wanted a new engine anyway...

The coilpacks 'just' lift vertically out. There is a special tool for this but many people succeed by levering them out with large flat screwdrivers. Go slowly and as gently/steadily as possible, And beware of straining the wiring. The rubber seals at the top tend to get very well stuck in the recesses,

 

I think you may have to improvise some kind of hook-ended tool to remove debris from no.1, to hopefully reveal the spark plug.

You will have a bit more room for moving leads about if you unclip the latches on the plastic cable management frame.

It looks like you'll need at one new coilpack so go ahead and remove all the others in case there are more problems, as Wino suggests you need some sort of pick tool to loosen the debris around that spark plug and maybe vacuum it out as you go until you expose the hex on the sparkplug and you can get a socket onto it to remove it, get it as clean as possible so debris doesn't fall into the cylinder when you finally take it out.

13 hours ago, Skrrrda said:

Handy one🙏 Have to remember that one

old dodge- works on a lot of cars as does the cleaner method of using bit of cloth/rope wrapped around filter ,tighten up with a screwdriver and turn(BASED ON THE "sPANISH " WINDLASS ). NB- don't try the puncture method on 1.4TDI.

35 minutes ago, VWD said:

old dodge- works on a lot of cars as does the cleaner method of using bit of cloth/rope wrapped around filter ,tighten up with a screwdriver and turn(BASED ON THE "sPANISH " WINDLASS ). NB- don't try the puncture method on 1.4TDI.

 

Old dodge yerself! 😄

 

I have a chain wrench which works on anything, you generally only need to break the stiction by moving it a fraction, then you can undo it with your hand.

I learnt my way from our friendly garage manager when I was employed ( work- four letter word) with GPO. Part of our tasks was to service our vans( oil + filter change and grease the suspension and steering. Heaven help you if a Moggie 1000 you'd serviced had a front end fail). So we were taught the correct way to do it. And if you were interested enough the manager would help you out with tips on easy ways to "how to do it yerself". Never had to resort to a chain wrench- always found the rag  & screwdriver worked ( as you say) to break the first part turn. I've always found the screwdriver through the can method a bit crude. It either works or it can go badly wrong. Apart from that , a screwdriver to me is like a expensive spanner to a mechanic- a tool I treat with a lot of love and respect.  I'd possibly spend as much on a set of screwdrivers or a meter as a mechanic would spend on a set of sockets. Same reason- my work tools.

But then with meters ,i usually have two . One to back up the other.

Edited 24 April, 20206 yr by VWD

Going back to that cylinder 1 and its COP, now correct me if I've got the wrong end of the stick here, but:- COP 1 would not fit down fully onto that plug, but I think the cleaned up end of COP 1 looks okay, so I think that a previous owner/servicer had a spot of trouble with the original coil in cylinder 1, left a bit of the rubber on that plug, then either swopped coils or fitted another coil - and that bit of rubber stopped it getting down as far as it should have - no?

 

Either way that extra bit of rubber needs to be removed from there and then examine the ends of all the coils/COPs just in case one of them is missing a bit of rubber, I like Eldor coils for these engines, seems to be the more reliable factory fitted one.

 

Screwdriver through oil filter, I've only ever had to do that once and the big screwdriver just ripped through and along the filter casing, after that I've always made sure that I have a suitable tool for removing them, started with the chain type, moved onto the type with a big Jubilee clip, now onto cheap hex sockets that are for that job - and also bespoke multifaced alloy cup for 2015 6C Polo.

You guys are just big gurls really, every toolbox should have a rough screwdriver in it for hitting stuff with, I wouldn't recommend it every time but if you're in a pinch it works, OP doesn't have a suitable tool so I suggested a field fix which I have used successfully in the past.

Strap wrenches are rubbish unless they have the teeth that bite into the can like a chain wrench and the windlass technique will just slip or crush the can.

Thanks folks, managed to get No. 1 out. Had no compressor so i used 2 straws together and blew as best i could used a pick aswell. Changed spark plug but misfired. 
onto new problem

coil number 2 I managed to get out but the extra metal surround has gotten stuck in there now and only the rubber will come out. Altogether service has gone well and car is running better than before.

is NGK R the new standard for NGK or am I just lucky?