Skoda Fabia 1.4 mpi Rough Idle, Seems like it wants to stall.

[MinkyMike]

Hi guys, back again!

 

The last couple of weeks its seemed to be a bit lumpy again from starting it up,

once it's run for a few minutes this usually goes away, then it runs fine, with no issues,

however I was leaving work last night, and as it started it seemed as if it was going to stall repeatedly, very rough idle, power loss when revving it, (also the engine light was fluttering on and off with the loss motion)

thought I was going to have to call the breakdown, then I gave it one last rev (not too hard) and boom, back to normal, and it drove home fine,

I've just gone out to it this morning, it started, it sounded the same, running very poorly, it did keep running just about and didn't stall, then after 4-5 mins or so it seems to sort itself out,

 

obviously I'm a bit worried if its going to get me to work tonight, nightmare, I've connected my obd tool up, and it isn't showing any fault codes.

 

Any ideas what this could possibly be? I'm pretty stumped, for those of you that have read my previous posts you'll know its had

new timing chain a while back,

head gasket, water pump, new spark plugs, new oil - filter, new anti freeze.

 

Like i said it runs fine after being started for a few minutes, but it seems to be getting much worse when initial starting it, I'll try get a video recording of it when next entering the car.

obviously if it gets any worse, it will keep cutting out and wont stay started long enough to sort itself out

 

Thanks Again all, I've had to put a few other jobs I have to do on it until this is sorted. the weather as been terrible as well. constant rain!

 

 

update, also it had a new thermostat housing, and temp sensor, last year.

 

the map sensor as never been change, I did take it off and clean it but there wasn't any dirt in there, its not a MAS sensor its a map, there quite expensive to change if it isn't that also.

Edited 7 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[sepulchrave]

I would say CTS but you say you changed it last year, what sensor did you fit?

[MinkyMike]

17 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

I would say CTS but you say you changed it last year, what sensor did you fit?

Hello mate,

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-MK-1-1-0-1-4-COOLANT-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-SWITCH-BRAND-NEW/163670172797?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Not sure if you will be able to see that link, but i purchased that one on the

Order placed on

Mon, 9 Mar 2020

 

I'm guessing it's a non branded?

 

Just spotted a febi on amazon for £7, possibly worth a try just changing the thermostat 5 min job,

ordered it, should be here tomorrow, hopefully early.

Edited 7 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[TMB]

I always recommend a genuine VAG sensor as some of the pattern ones are crap. Febi should be OK though.

Edited 7 February, 2021 by TMB

[MinkyMike]

Hi all, changed it a few days ago so just been giving it time to see how it's going, it hasn't stalled and it's been starting up ok, but when you first start it's still rough for the first 5 minutes, and every now and again when idling it will just go  rough for a few seconds then back to normal, it's pulling fine when you put foot down, but I'm still convinced something is not right, it's intermittent, any more suggestions ? Fuel filter, could it be a dodgy fuel pump? Or maybe an injector, the fact it runs and drives great is puzzling me. 

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Edited 12 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[sepulchrave]

It is particularly cold at the moment, on old port injection engines such as yours you get a lot of fuel vapour condensation which causes the engine to run very badly until warmed up a bit.

However the engine light flickering suggests a misfire which might indicate that damp has been getting into the coil pack, check it for any cracks and give it a good squirt of water dispersant all over before refitting.

[MinkyMike]

15 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

It is particularly cold at the moment, on old port injection engines such as yours you get a lot of fuel vapour condensation which causes the engine to run very badly until warmed up a bit.

However the engine light flickering suggests a misfire which might indicate that damp has been getting into the coil pack, check it for any cracks and give it a good squirt of water dispersant all over before refitting.

Ah yes thanks , maybe , but it's also a bit intermittently doing it, once warmed up while normal driving about, forgot to mention I just changed the coil pack. To a Hass one of carparts4less to rule that out. But there's no difference..

 

I believe the head gasket set I brought has injector gaskets, or rubbers like little Cheerios, I think there for injectors , would it be worth cleaning injectors and replacing these or could I cause more problems , it's been starting fine.. just feels a bit bouncy at start , if you look at engine can see it rocking back and forward.   But when it's not doing this intermittent it wil sound smooth and engine sits still 

Edited 13 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[TMB]

22 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

I believe the head gasket set I brought has injector gaskets, or rubbers like little Cheerios, I think there for injectors

 

Yes they are injector seals.

 

As you know, mine has the same engine and it doesn't exibit any of this behaviour when it's cold so there must be something wrong. Are you able to scan it for fault codes?

 

I have a known-good genuine VAG coolant temp sensor you can have for nothing if you want. I could post it to you.

Edited 14 February, 2021 by TMB

[MinkyMike]

Hi mate, I've scanned using a cheap obd scanner on Android, it's showing no codes , the engine light isn't on, I'm thinking of buying a decent obd 2 scanner been looking at the vd700, I really don't think it's that temp sensor matey, I've changed it about 4 times now in the last couple of years with little effect on this issue , this issue as been long standing and as slowly progressed , I was sure it was that head gasket , because I did get misfire code at one point..but it didn't change anything , other then fix the head gasket related issue, it doesn't loose water and engine oil as no cream now.  thanks for offering bud ,

 

I think I'm just going to have to wait till.it gradually gets worse to try and pinpoint it.. bit of a nightmare to be fair lol I'm thinking fuel related.. but I don't know .. difficult one

Edited 15 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[TMB]

On 14/02/2021 at 23:18, MinkyMike said:

thanks for offering bud

 

OK no worries

[MinkyMike]

I've been looking at the ancel vd700,

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANCEL-Functions-Vehicles-Diagnosis-Injector/dp/B07WGFWMYH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=ancel+vd700&qid=1613487685&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQV0YxTklPWFMwRlQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3MDUwMTMzSDJZUTU5NUJORDQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDM1Mzk3ODFVSEtJTVVNWjFZQTEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

 

Does anyone think this is any good or have any experience with ancel?

 

What odb tools do you all use? this one has special vag functions. (it also as throttle body adaptation) 

 

I've been using a cheap obd wifi dongle, and various apps on my phone, but there clunky, and dont work very well

Edited 16 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[TMB]

Looks decent. I use VCDS-Lite which is a free version of the full VCDS. You just install it on a laptop and use a VCDS cable to connect to the car. I also have a cheap scanner which seems to work OK for basic use....

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 17 February, 2021 by TMB

[MinkyMike]

Right guys I've just plugged it in, and I'm getting..

 

P157000 Engine Control Module (ECM) Disabled

 

(I believe this is an immobiliser issue, that obviously happens now and again anyway)

 

P030200 Cyl.2 Misfire Detected

 

01598 Drive Battery Voltage

 

00532 Supply Voltage,

 

I've cleared all the codes (this cylinder 2 misfire may of been before the head gasket change? as i thought i cleared the codes, but ovbisiously my old scanner was ****e.)

 

going to try again in a couple of days, see what codes come back, but the way it sounds when its starting, idling, indeed might be a misfire)

 

not sure about the Drive voltage battery codes? Its still a pretty new battery

 

What Are the Symptoms of Code P0302?

• Check Engine Light is on
• Check Engine Light flashing
• Engine runs rough and shaking (Defiantly getting this)
• Lack of power from the engine
• Fuel smell from the exhaust
• Hesitations/Jerking when accelerating

 

 

Maybe that injector is faulty?

 

 

Thanks All! 

 

Regards

Edited 22 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[MinkyMike]

It's funny I've had all the codes but never no EPC light , I wonder if the bulb as gone.

[Breezy_Pete]

LED, so unlikely. May have been nobbled though...

Voltage-related faults can be just battery disconnection, if you've done that at any stage?

[TMB]

8 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

It's funny I've had all the codes but never no EPC light , I wonder if the bulb as gone.

 

Does the EPC light come on at ignition?

 

 

Edited 22 February, 2021 by TMB

[MinkyMike]

21 hours ago, Wino said:

LED, so unlikely. May have been nobbled though...

Voltage-related faults can be just battery disconnection, if you've done that at any stage?

Yes mate, I've disconnected the battery to do the head gasket and also when I did the timing chain.. so maybe that's all that is.. thanks

 

13 hours ago, TMB said:

 

Does the EPC light come on at ignition?

 

 

Yes, it does come on doh.. so it's not the bulb, I do recall it coming on a while back but after turning car off and restarting it, it disappeared, maybe it only shows up once ? 

Edited 23 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[TMB]

9 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

I do recall it coming on a while back but after turning car off and restarting it, it disappeared, maybe it only shows up once ? 

 

Not sure on that one mate.

[MinkyMike]

I dunno, I really am stumped, Going to see if the code comes back, ill try again tomorrow, is an injector easy to change? is it just a case of pull it out and push the new one in?

[sepulchrave]

39 minutes ago, MinkyMike said:

I dunno, I really am stumped, Going to see if the code comes back, ill try again tomorrow, is an injector easy to change? is it just a case of pull it out and push the new one in?

 

Try swapping injectors round and see if the misfire follows that injector.

[TMB]

2 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

I dunno, I really am stumped, Going to see if the code comes back, ill try again tomorrow, is an injector easy to change? is it just a case of pull it out and push the new one in?

 

First you have to remove the injector rail with all four injectors attached. Then they are just held to the rail with metal clips. Remove the clips and pull the injectors out of the rail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 23 February, 2021 by TMB

[sepulchrave]

Check all the seals, a missing or damaged seal will allow extra air in to that cylinder ruining the fuel/air mixture.

[MinkyMike]

12 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Try swapping injectors round and see if the misfire follows that injector.

Ah, brilliant idea, if the code has come back, I'll definitely be trying this, also I've got new seals so I might as well use them. Thanks mate

 

11 hours ago, TMB said:

 

First you have to remove the injector rail with all four injectors attached. Then they are just held to the rail with metal clips. Remove the clips and pull the injectors out of the rail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh right , nice one cheers bud, it's a pretty easy job then, will fuel all spray out when I remove the injector ? Is it under pressure, and do I need to prime the fuel or anything once it's swapped or will it just start ?

 

I helped an old man at the side of the road the other day, his car had run out of fuel at 2 in the morning, took him to the garage to get fuel, we put it in but the bigger still wouldn't go, worried about this happening to me.

[MinkyMike]

Just plugged it in this morning, and the code has not come back been using it for a about 3 days since clearing , will give it another few days and try again.

 

No codes stores at all now did a full system scan.

 

Fuel trims are saying..

At idle 

Short term it's hovering from -1.6% to -3.1%

 

Long term is sat stable at 2.3%

 

Intake manifold absolute pressure 43.0pa

 

Short term fuel trim b1 -s2 is at 99.2%

Anyone else think that sounds dodgy ? Or is that normal seems a high percentage

 

Not sure what that is..

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 24 February, 2021 by MinkyMike

[sepulchrave]

Why do you think it's dodgy if you don't know what it is?

B1 S2 is the post-cat lambda probe and a high percentage is good, it means the cat is working really well.