Dear all,

 

When googling around for guides, I've discovered there doesn't seem to be a specific guide for doing an oil change and filter (and air filter) for the 1.0 TSI engine.  There are plenty of guides for the 1.2 and 1.4TSI engines, just not the 1.0.  My husband's car does lots of short journeys, so the oil is rather black after 6000 miles.

 

To start, you will need the following:

 

T35 + T40 star drives

19mm spanner

oil filter remover

torque wrench

Long nose pliers

Set of ramps (I purchased a set of Rhino Ramps + back stops from ebay)

Overalls or dirty work clothing

Tighter or close-fitting work Gloves

Some old clothes or paper towel to mop up any oil spillage.

 

For the parts - can I give an HUGE shoutout to Horton Skoda who supplied me the parts - I paid for the parts, but their service is excellent and I must give a mention to Matt in their parts department who has helped me on this and other Skoda related projects.  Go to: https://www.theskodashop.co.uk - and under the top right corner (search) - type in the phase "major" and this will present you with a major service kit for a petrol or diesel.  Select Petrol.  On checkout, please put in your registration and put in 1.0TSI engine e.g. AB67 XXX 1.0TSI Engine.  Parts will be sent out postage FOC and should arrive in 48hrs.  Cost was £135 at the time of writing.

 

In this kit, you get:

 

• 5 litres of Skoda Longlife 504/507 0w30 oil
• Air Filter
• Cabin Air Filter
• Spark Plugs
• Oil Filter
• Sump Plug and washer
• Oil catch pan (5 litre capacity)

 

1) Get the car nice and warm - take the car for a 5 to 10 mile run.

2) Come home and directly onto the ramp.  Make sure the engine is off, the car is chocked, in gear and handbrake ON!

3) Time to get into your overalls and get under the car - removal of the undertray.

• There is a single T35 for the front of the tray
• There are three T35' on each side
• There are 3 larger T40 on the back of the tray
• The tray should now hang down - press UP on the tabs at the front of the tray.  Tray will now come away - be prepared to be covered in crud and road muck.

4) You now have access to the underside of the car.  Release the top oil filler cap to allow for easier flow of old oil.

5) You now need your oil catch can and the 19mm spanner.  Undo the sump plug shown above.  Watch out - oil will get on gloves  - it comes out with force.

6) You now need to take off the oil filter - you will need your oil filter removal tool.  Space is slightly tight, but suggesting getting purchase on the end of the filter.

7) Oil will come out from the filter, so be careful.  Have some rags available to mop up any small spillages.

8) Put in new sump plug and washer.  I've tried to find the correct torque settings - google suggests 30nm of pressure (which is quite a lot).  Practice shows that you will get up to about 25nm and that is tight.

9) Put on the new oil filter - remember to put oil on the seal around the face of the filter.  google suggests 20nm, in practice, this needs to be done up hand-tight (as tight as your hand can manage).

10) Fill up to 3.75litres (the sump capacity is 4.0litres).  We also used an oil additive called Active8 (125ml), but this step is entirely optional.  Fill oil until half way up dip stick.

11) Start up car and let car come off high idle to 1000rpm.

12) Let engine idle (do not rev engine here) for a minute.  If there is an oil pressure warning light on here - switch off engine, check sump plug, filter and oil level.

13) Drive off ramp - and let engine continue to idle for a further minute - we are trying to achieve good oil pressure and lubrication and filling of the oil filter.

14) Switch off engine - go for a coffee or tea - let oil level settle.  Come back and check level and top up to top of level marker on dip stick.

 

15) Air Filter - the air filter box cannot be accessed whilst on the engine.  It needs to come off.

16) There is a T35 at the front middle of the airbox.  Remove this.

17) You need to remove the air hose surclip at the back of the filter.

18) The air filter pops off (like pulling off the plastic cover from a TDI Engine).  You can now access all of the T35's around the filter - and replace the filter.  Please note the correct way around for inserting.  Don't forget the T35 in the middle of the filter housing.

19) Put filter back onto hoses and top of engine rubber mount.  Its fiddly - and its important that the clip makes a good seal (see photo above), otherwise you will have an uncontrolled air leak.

 

Things we didn't get time to do:

 

Replace sparkplugs, but the car has only done 22k miles (35k kms), so no great loss there.

 

Things to do before your test drive:

 

a) Put undertray back on - check for oil leaks.  Suggest washing the undertray if you can.

 

Forgot to add - don't forget the cabin air filter - this will be super grotty after 22k miles. 

a) Remove Glove-box

b) Release three plastic clips and open container (you might need a plastic tool to open the clips)

c) note the correct way around for air flow (top to bottom) - usually the way up for the writing on the filter.

d) insert new filter - put cover back on

e) Reinstall glove-box (there are other guides on how to do that, but basically, insert Glovebox in under rubber bump stop, click-in bottom mounts, reinstall soft opening mechanism).