3 hours ago, crankoz said:

Going round in circles trying to fix wiring...got a mobile sparky out who says it's now time to buy a new improved door loom!

 

Original p/n is 3T2 971 120 DL.  I've done some searching and it looks like 3T2 971 120 DJ may be the current one.  Can anyone refer me to a reliable supplier who will ship the loom to Australia?

 

During our fault finding process I got a second hand door control module hoping that would be the cure....funnily it wasn't. 

The mobile sparky suggested the module would need to be adapted to the car .... is this true?  And as I have swapped back to the original module do I need to re-adapt it to the car and if so how???

 

 

I'm not sure about adaptation to the car for the door control module, others may be able to chime in on that, but it would probably need the coding to be changed/updated to match what's installed on the car. The original module shouldn't require any changes if it's just swapped back in without any other changes having been made on the module or car.

 

Looking at http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/SUP/year/2014/drive_standart/768/hg_ug/972/subcategory/972035/part_id/0/lang/e it looks like the DL and DJ versions are concurrent part numbers for looms supporting different feature sets on the vehicle, and that the DL part fitted to your car is the most recent revision.

I'd stick with the original module, it'll need the window limits relearning but that's normal after disconnecting the main battery.

 

The replacement module will likely need coding and the adaption channels sorting out unless it's from an identical car. It may even need a dataset which VCDS can't do.

Try skoda-parts.com for anything you need.

Thanks langers2k and StuH78....appreciate your replies and wisdom!

 

I'll order the new harness from skoda-part.com as suggested

Got the wiring harness from Skoda parts (great service).

 

My car has kessy and as a consequence the harness has an additional plug that connects with the door handle. 

How on earth do we get to that plug?? 

Good & Bad Update..

 

The Good

New wiring harness installed1

 

The Bad

No change in behaviour!!

 

Rescanned....cleared codes ...... no change..  See todays scan attached.

 

Could this mean a BCM issue? If so how do I resolve it??

Log-04JUN21-TMBMF93T2F9027151-95950km-59620mi.txt

The missing 09 and 46 isn't unusual, probably just needs the car locking/unlocking and an ignition cycle. Even if the BCM is dead or removed, you should see the door controllers.

 

Still feels like a power supply issue to me...

 

You mentioned previously the voltage was low even after you ran a temporary feed. That suggests either a bad ground or that the power supply has chaffed and is now being earthed somewhere. Hopefully you can get a wiring diagram and start checking the power/grounds out to narrow it down.

 

It's possible that one of the four door controllers has failed and is pulling the power supply down but that's a bit of effort to remove all four door cards to unplug them all while you test.

 

I'd be tempted to replace the fuses to rule out any micro-fractures. While you're doing this, check the empty fuse slots only have a single contract to make sure none are missing.

Thanks langers2k,

 

Been regularly locking/unlocking the doors while car was worked on to stop alarm going off..

 

Replaced all fuses relating to doors and windows a few weeks ago.

 

Ignition cycle?  Does this mean....turning on ignition (not starting car) running a scan, clearing all DTCs, turning ignition off, running scan again and clearing DTCs...and hold the breath for a good result?  Sorry if I am sounding dumb...could be a result of the pain meds I am on!!

 

 

 

 

Edited 4 June, 20215 yr by crankoz

Yeah an ignition cycle is just turning it off and back on with the key.

 

I'm not expecting it to help with the door controllers but it should get the BCM (address 09/46) communicating again

13 hours ago, langers2k said:

Yeah an ignition cycle is just turning it off and back on with the key.

 

I'm not expecting it to help with the door controllers but it should get the BCM (address 09/46) communicating again

Did that....

 

Question... can I do a scan with engine running?  Reason I ask is the battery was flat after the harness was fitted and I don't have jumper leads (mate jumped it with his leads) 

Yup, scanning with the engine running is fine 👍

Well...we've checked and rechecked all we can and the only change I've noticed is kessy is partially working...the touch sensor for door locking is functioning - that is, the indicator lights flash and fuel cap and tailgate lock.  No other doors lock.

 

My wife was driving the car when the problem first appeared .... she heard a 'pop' sound but no burning smells of any kind. I wonder what could that possibly be? 

 

Time to replace the BCM maybe?

 

Hi Briskodian Experts,

 

Can anyone provide steps or video how I can remove the BCM in my MkII Outdoor?  I want to check if there are any dodgy solder joints that may be causing my issues?

If nothing is obvious I will order a replacement.

 

Many thanks

A faulty BCM shouldn't stop the door controllers communicating...

 

You can probably access the three connectors if you remove the trim in the drivers footwell. I don't have a guide or pictures unfortunately. It shouldn't be necessary to completely remove it yet.

 

If the door controllers still don't show up with it disconnected, then it's unlikely to be related.

 

Have you managed to get 12v to the door controllers yet?

On 09/06/2021 at 16:24, langers2k said:

A faulty BCM shouldn't stop the door controllers communicating...

 

You can probably access the three connectors if you remove the trim in the drivers footwell. I don't have a guide or pictures unfortunately. It shouldn't be necessary to completely remove it yet.

 

If the door controllers still don't show up with it disconnected, then it's unlikely to be related.

 

Have you managed to get 12v to the door controllers yet?

 

Nope...no power to door controllers. 

Interestingly, the touch locking feature works by lights flashing but doors do not physically lock. The opening touch does not work.

31 minutes ago, crankoz said:

Nope...no power to door controllers. 

 

I don't mean to sound like a broken record but that really is the first thing to figure out.

 

There are no switches, relays or anything interesting on the power/ground path for the door controllers. It's just wires, joints and fuses...

 

If I were you:

- I'd disconnect all four door controllers while you do this (one or more may have internal faults although unlikely)

- Check that the door fuse(s) have 12v on the output and are capable of supplying decent current without much voltage drop (test lamp with a 21w bulb is fine ~2a)

- Check for continuity and load carrying capability along each power feed between the fuse(s) and the power consumer (door modules) - again test lamp is fine

 

Hopefully that'll find a fault in either the power or ground wiring and after repairing, you'll get a solid 12v supply to all four doors.

 

Once you have verified there are no wiring issues with the power feeds, you can then add the door controllers back in one-by-one and scan between each addition to see if they communicate and if the power rail stays happy.

 

As the late, great Jack over on the Rosstech forums used to post:

Noted thanks langers2k....Will do as suggested and report back.

After hours of investigation no problems found. 

 

I did tighten up the nut about 1/4 of  a turn at the earth point near the floor in drivers foot well.  Not sure if this would make any difference???

 

During the investigation process the BCM was removed as during my countless phone calls for help, I came across a mobile sparkie who said they could check it out of the car, but when I contacted them to do this they backed out!

 

Other than inspecting the circuit board for obvious faulty solder joints is there any other tests we can try?

 

Any Superb experts in SE Melb who are willing to come to my home to investigate this issue?  I will pay of course!

Edited 18 June, 20214 yr by crankoz

Disconnect the three plugs on the BCM and see if anything changes with the voltage to the door controllers. You should perform an autoscan while it's disconnected too.

 

I'd be very surprised if the BCM was causing your issues though as it's not in the power path for the door controllers.

22 hours ago, langers2k said:

Disconnect the three plugs on the BCM and see if anything changes with the voltage to the door controllers. You should perform an autoscan while it's disconnected too.

 

I'd be very surprised if the BCM was causing your issues though as it's not in the power path for the door controllers.

Could not find the problem.....mainly cos I can't read the wiring diagram! 

 

What I do know is there is no power for the red wire at the plug in the A pillar. It's the one identified with red line in the pic below..

 

Where the power comes from inside the car to there  is a mystery to me!

Can you confirm that in the cabin fusebox, top row of full size blade fuses, 2nd from right is intact?

1 hour ago, Wino said:

Can you confirm that in the cabin fusebox, top row of full size blade fuses, 2nd from right is intact?

If you are referring to fuse No.2 5A - yes it is.

No, fuse 23, 30A. 

Take a photo of the one I'm describing. 

 

Is there not a couple of rows of mini-blades, then some of full size, then a bottom row of minis?

I'm talking about the first/top row of full size.

Edited 20 June, 20214 yr by Wino

28 minutes ago, Wino said:

No, fuse 23, 30A. 

Take a photo of the one I'm describing. 

 

Is there not a couple of rows of mini-blades, then some of full size, then a bottom row of minis?

I'm talking about the first/top row of full size.

Oops...my bad!

 

Yes fuse 23 is in tact...BUT....when was testing it insitu with my lead light, the top point of the fuse had power, but the bottom point did not.  I wiggled the fuse and low and behold there was power!  So this seems to me that the bottom retaining fitting is 'loose' and maybe is the cause of the problem. 

 

Does this mean the fuse box will need to be removed to inspect the fitting??

Edited 20 June, 20214 yr by crankoz