Superb MkII doors do not lock or unlock, windows do not operate, no mirror controls.

[crankoz]

Drivers door and tailgate and fuel cap operate though.  Only driver's door locks and unlocks. 

Opened the other 3 doors from inside the car and now they cannot be locked either by using the remote or using the lock door button on driver's door.

Windows do not operate.

Outside Mirrors do not operate.

 

Go a bit of an issue here I think....did a lot of searching but couldn't find an answer that covers all these issues.

 

I did  a VCDS scan and it brought up a few errors ...see attached file. Car has an aftermarket Android Head Unit - been in car for 12 months..

 

Hopefully someone can advise how serious this is and if it is in the realms of a DIY fix?

 

Car is an Australian spec'd  Superb MkII Outdoor 2014 like to one of my Avatar.

 

Log-TMBMF93T2F9027151-94810km-02May2021.txt

Edited 2 May, 2021 by crankoz
grammar correction

[gav_is_con]

Guessing like me it’s the door loom wires in the drivers door. The grommet between the car and the door is where the wires break. Do a search there was a recent topic in April. Some people repair (solder). There was an eBay part used by someone to re-splice all wires very cheaply inc the door connector. Mine was replaced by the dealer, it’s not cheap £335 odd for parts and labour. 

Ps I lost electric window controls for various car windows. All drivers door controls for mirrors and no drivers side doors would lock. 

Upon inspecting the original loom there were several wires broken. 

Edited 2 May, 2021 by gav_is_con
Typo

[gav_is_con]

Picture of my loom and others I obtained of someone’s repair 

 

[gav_is_con]

I hope someone can dicipher the VCDS scan there is a lot of stuff there. I will see if I have one to share from the dealer. 

The AA report 

Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Central electronics system - 68K / Central electronics CE 3.3 Status :038B - Energy management active. Error Message : . Error sporadic. Status :0536 - Rear right door control unit. Error Message : No signal. Error static. Status :0533 - Door control unit, driver side. Error Message : No signal. Error static.Patrol carried out the following special function/s:Adjustments / settingsDriver has lost control of the drivers side of vehicle controls.Unable to secure car control windows etc. Member now not confident in leaving/driving vehicle. I did the following:tested and checked fuses relays. Read diagnostic trouble codes stored. 

[andrehj]

Why do you want to decipher these codes?

Simply fix the broken wire loom, and reset the fault codes. 99% chance that they will stay away.

[crankoz]

Thanks to everyone for their responses.

 

Checked the loom and it looks good to me....see pic.

 

Where to now?  Could it be the driver's door control module?

[crankoz]

How do I remove that damned door grommet??  Feels like it will never come out!

 

[crankoz]

Ok....latest update...

 

No broken wires

No dud fuses

Door control module replaced

 

Same issue remains, however now I have noticed that none of the door control switches light up (it's night time now!) (yeah I know...I'm a bright spark!!)

The remote key only locks/unlocks the fuel filler cap, the powered tailgate and I have to 'lock' the car with the remote else the alarm will be triggered...all doors will open manually but the alarm is triggered if we do this.

Keyless entry does not work.  

Tried the second remote key and there is no difference.

 

What can I try now??

[chimaera]

Going by some of the errors in the autoscan, I'd take a look at the CAN gateway or the BCM. Lots of communication errors.

 

Two things to try first are clear all error codes and see what comes back, and unplug the aftermarket head unit and see if the car starts behaving itself again. Try one thing at a time.

[crankoz]

Thanks chimaera,

 

Unplugged HU, scanned and cleared error codes....no change.

Checked wiring at passengers footwell as suggested in another forum...it was dry and no visible wiring issues.

 

What's involved with checking CAN gateway and BCM?

 

[chimaera]

Did you cycle the ignition and rescan for fault codes after clearing them? The point of doing this exercise is to get rid of any 'old' codes, and see what codes are set when the problem occurs.

 

I'm not that knowledgeable on CAN & BCM stuff, I'm sure someone who knows their way around these systems will chime in at some point. @langers2kany thoughts on this?

 

[crankoz]

It was late at night when I did this so I may have missed one part....

What do I do to cycle the ignition and rescan?  Turn ignition on then off without starting the car and leave the cable plugged in while doing this??

 

[chimaera]

Yeah, turn off ignition then back on or even turn on the engine for a few seconds. It doesn't matter whether the cable is plugged in or not. Play around with the affected functions on the vehicle as well. Now do another scan.

 

It's common enough for old fault codes to be left on the car after a repair, especially if it's done outside the dealer network, or if it's a simple DIY fix. These can cause confusion when troubleshooting a problem. This procedure clears all codes, then powers up the affected systems to see what codes might be relevant to the current problem.

 

As for the head unit, after you unplugged it, did you turn on the ignition/engine and play around with the affected functions? My hunch here is the head unit could be sending nonsense on the CAN lines and interfering with communications between other modules.

[langers2k]

The standout thing to me is that you've no communication with any door module:

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver
Cannot be reached

Address 52: Door Elect, Pass.
Cannot be reached

Address 62: Door, Rear Left
Cannot be reached

Address 72: Door, Rear Right
Cannot be reached

 

It's somewhat unusual to lose all four so I'd be checking for common points of failure, ie power or CAN-bus.

 

I haven't got a wiring diagram for a Superb but I'd replace the fuse and check the fusebox contacts are in good condition, it's probably called the 'central locking control module' and at least on a MK2 Octavia, it's fuse 12 (10A)  in the dashboard end fuse panel. It's probably the same for a Superb but check

 

If that makes no change, check the door modules are getting power on pins T20d/12 and T20e/12. There are separate fuses which feed the electric windows but I don't think they are needed for the modules to communicate. Pretty sure the rear modules aren't 'proper' modules so I'd be concentrating on the front modules for now.

 

Once you've verified the modules have power (and ground), I'd then suspect either broken or shorted CAN-bus wires. They'll be harder to track down but the door gaiters are an obvious starting point. If there's nothing obvious, you should do a proper test of the wiring between the CAN gateway and the door modules.

 

TBH, given there are no obvious faults in the CAN gateway about CAN-bus issues/shorts/1-wire mode etc, it feels like power is a more obvious fit.

 

As for the other faults:

- Address 05 and 09 are almost certainly a side-effect of the missing door modules

- Address 08 are unlikely the cause or will help diagnose this, could be a side-effect

- Address 19 is expected (radio/nav removed, door modules are sad)

- Address 2E is expected as the radio/nav is removed

- Address 47, check the tweeter and wiring to front right door

- Address 6D no idea, could be a side-effect

- Address 77 is also due to the radio/nav replacement

[crankoz]

 

Thanks chimaera again!! I did the ignition power cycle - no change.

 

Thanks langers2k!!  Appreciate your detailed reply.

I've replaced relevant fuses - no change.

Is there a wiring diagram for 'pins T20d/12 and T20e/12' that you can point me too?

Will have my mechanic mate to recheck the for broken wires in the front door gaiters again- I'm a bit restricted in movement due to torn rotator cuff.

If there are no broken wires in the door gaiters how can we check the wiring between the CAN gateway (don't know where it is!) and the door modules.

 

Oh dear... I was talking to the missus about this problem just now, and she says she heard a sound like a balloon bursting (her description) when she was driving the car the other day when the faults first appeared. I did ask if maybe something flicked up underneath the car or bounced off the windscreen but she said no.

What on earth could this be??? There is no smell of anything burnt or burning inside the car and for all intents and purposes, it drives just the same as before this issue appeared.  Just can use the windows, external mirrors, central locking or kessy functionality.

[langers2k]

T20d/12 and T20e/12 are on the front door controllers. That means connector T20d pin 12 and T20e pin 12. There should only be one 20 pin connector on the door controller so it's easy to find pin 12 on each side.

 

The 20 pin is labelled as connector D below:

 

 

The Octavia WD I have isn't super helpful but you can see:

- pin 12 on connector T20d/T20e is power

- pin 19 on connector T20d/T20e is ground

- pin 8/9 on connector T20d/T20e are CAN-bus

 

IIRC, T20d/T20e pin 20 is also power but that's only used for the electric windows. Still worth checking though.

 

 

[crankoz]

Thanks very much langers2k....! will provide this to my mechanic mate and report back.

[crankoz]

My mechanic mate came over tonight and checked wiring again and found one broken wire....soldered it together and did a test of the window operation, but sadly no change to condition.

 

I did a scan and cleared the errors, cycled the ignition and scanned again....still no change.

 

Attached is the latest scan but I doesn't tell a different story.

 

Time for a couple of Scotch and Cokes me thinks.... I know I am not very classy...but I enjoy them!

 

Log-TMBMF93T2F9027151-95700km-13May21.txt

[crankoz]

This is becoming quite a drama!

 

We've rechecked all wires and they are ok...but still there is no power going to harness.  Is there a hidden relay/fuse that may be the cause??

 

I was thinking of replacing the harness and we have searched and searched for hours looking for a replacement for a 3T2 971 120 DL but cannot find one anywhere.  Can anyone point me in the direction of where I may be able to get one and have it delivered to Australia??  Will also need that little tool thingy for the connection at the door lock.

 

Cheers...

[gav_is_con]

My 2011 estate had the below parts used by the dealer in April 2021 

Hope it helps, someone has done a write up how to replace on here I think. 

[langers2k]

Have you checked the fuse has power?

 

Given you know the door module hasn't got power, it should be possible to trace the wire back to find the issue or just run a replacement to the fuse box...

[crankoz]

2 hours ago, langers2k said:

Have you checked the fuse has power?

 

Given you know the door module hasn't got power, it should be possible to trace the wire back to find the issue or just run a replacement to the fuse box...

Yep...checked all fuses...no issues found.

I don't have access to fuse box diagram....but I think it is no. 14.  So you are saying to run a wire from fuse 14 to the power wire for the loom??

[langers2k]

If you've confirmed there is no power to the door controllers, I'd suggest running a temporary fused supply to them. While it's connected see if you can communicate with them using VCDS.

 

Assuming that works, you've found your problem and either need to find the break in the power supply or run a replacement.

 

Just looked at the owners manual for your VIN here which suggests fuse 14, 23 and 32 are door related.

 

Official source for wiring diagrams is https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do it's a pay per timeslot service but an hour should be fine. Use a 'print to pdf' function or similar so you can check the WD in your own time and save printing everything out

[crankoz]

We ran a wire directly from the battery to the loom and got a bit of power, but not enough for controls to work.

With the harness plugged in we checked the voltage on the red wire with green stripe and it was 5.7volts.  My mate thought that was a bit low and should be about 8 volts or better. Is this true??

Couldn't download a wiring diagram as the portal is down for maintenance.

Edited 16 May, 2021 by crankoz
Spelling corrected

[crankoz]

Going round in circles trying to fix wiring...got a mobile sparky out who says it's now time to buy a new improved door loom!

 

Original p/n is 3T2 971 120 DL.  I've done some searching and it looks like 3T2 971 120 DJ may be the current one.  Can anyone refer me to a reliable supplier who will ship the loom to Australia?

 

During our fault finding process I got a second hand door control module hoping that would be the cure....funnily it wasn't. 

The mobile sparky suggested the module would need to be adapted to the car .... is this true?  And as I have swapped back to the original module do I need to re-adapt it to the car and if so how???