Is having gearbox opened and condition assessed financially worth it?

[Breezy_Pete]

16 hours ago, CReese123 said:

 - Can you take a look if this is what you mean bud? Watched three videos along this line. Although all appears fairly simple, I struggle to see what changes are actually made? The guy retracts the springs, locks the transmission in place, then flicks the springs back out? 

 

When he pulls back the springs to free the fingers they can then effectively land back on a different part of the cable after the gearshift mechanism and the gearstick are both locked in the setting position. so the cables end up being adjusted to just the right lengths for everything to be optimal in terms of the gearstick movements.

[J.R.]

That is very low mileage for a clutch and flywheel change, was the concentric slave cylinder replaced?

 

Definitely adjust your linkage as a first step, it's very easy and costs nothing.

 

Try my tip of engaging the baulk ring (but not the gear itself) of 2nd (or reverse gear) for a brief time before engaging 1st gear, if it improves matters then there is clutch drag (which will always be present to a minor degree) and a worn first gear synchro caused by it.

 

A change of transmission oil may improve matters, I gather there is a seperate thread so there could be a clue there which I am unaware of.

[johnh510]

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

We don't know the OP's gearbox but I would bet my house that it has synchromesh on reverse gear, it has been more than 25 years since I owned a vehicle lacking the modern refinement, my first car with it was in 1987, a Ford XR4x4, possibly the MT75 gearbox, most manufacturers followed suit very quickly

 

I'm not sure if I'm ready for a house in France, but...

 

I'm pretty sure none of the Fabia's we have had, including the current 2015 model SE, with a 5 speed gearbox has had synchromesh on reverse.

Neither does the 6 speed in my Rapid sport.

 

Anyone else care to venture an opinion?

[CReese123]

3 hours ago, Wino said:

 

When he pulls back the springs to free the fingers they can then effectively land back on a different part of the cable after the gearshift mechanism and the gearstick are both locked in the setting position. so the cables end up being adjusted to just the right lengths for everything to be optimal in terms of the gearstick movements.

So would you suggest pulling back the springs and then allowing it to set itself bud; let it land wherever on the mechanism? I assumed you'd have to remove the slack yourself by hand before flicking the springs back out and into locking position. 

 

That being said, follow the guidance of the vid? 

[CReese123]

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

That is very low mileage for a clutch and flywheel change, was the concentric slave cylinder replaced?

 

Definitely adjust your linkage as a first step, it's very easy and costs nothing.

 

Try my tip of engaging the baulk ring (but not the gear itself) of 2nd (or reverse gear) for a brief time before engaging 1st gear, if it improves matters then there is clutch drag (which will always be present to a minor degree) and a worn first gear synchro caused by it.

 

A change of transmission oil may improve matters, I gather there is a seperate thread so there could be a clue there which I am unaware of.

Common fault - flywheel was recall so I had clutch done while I was at it as it went in with main dealer. 

[CReese123]

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

That is very low mileage for a clutch and flywheel change, was the concentric slave cylinder replaced?

 

Definitely adjust your linkage as a first step, it's very easy and costs nothing.

 

Try my tip of engaging the baulk ring (but not the gear itself) of 2nd (or reverse gear) for a brief time before engaging 1st gear, if it improves matters then there is clutch drag (which will always be present to a minor degree) and a worn first gear synchro caused by it.

 

A change of transmission oil may improve matters, I gather there is a seperate thread so there could be a clue there which I am unaware of.

Hi bud can you give advice on the above video I shared regarding linkage adjustment? Is it really that straightforward? 

[Breezy_Pete]

3 minutes ago, CReese123 said:

So would you suggest pulling back the springs and then allowing it to set itself bud; let it land wherever on the mechanism? I assumed you'd have to remove the slack yourself by hand before flicking the springs back out and into locking position. 

 

That being said, follow the guidance of the vid? 

 

I only skimmed the vid but the idea is to free the cables off so they can move relative to the end fittings, then lock both ends, the gearstick position and the selector mech at the gearbox in their 'calibration' positions, then re-connect the cables with no slack.

[J.R.]

I havn't watched the video but have done the job myself and nothing could be easier, on my vehicle removing the air filter housing gives better access, a wise precaution the first time but I would do it by feel thereafter.

[FabiaGonzales]

On 27/09/2021 at 11:58, J.R. said:

We don't know the OP's gearbox but I would bet my house that it has synchromesh on reverse gear, it has been more than 25 years since I owned a vehicle lacking the modern refinement, my first car with it was in 1987, a Ford XR4x4, possibly the MT75 gearbox, most manufacturers followed suit very quickly

 

This would be extremely counterproductive especially in the case of a dragging clutch having caused synchro wear on first gear.

 

Looks like i'm getting a new house then! These gearboxes have synchromesh on all gears except for reverse (it's the good old dog engagement type, and that's why you get people going "ohmagerd sometimes reverse gear won't go in unless i lift the clutch for a moment, my gearbox must be broke and this car is the worst thing ever made" - because the teeth just happen to be aligned in a way that it won't engage..)

 

1st and 2nd are double synchronised, to quote from the 02T gearbox workshop guide/manual: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_237_d1.pdf

 

That will have an effect that makes 1st and 2nd a bit clunkier to shift into.

 

I have found that the gearbox likes to be shifted with a big more weight to the throw. Trying to shift it really gently and lightly results in a clunky shift.

 

 

[J.R.]

Every day is a learning day, I even had to drive my car forwards & shove it into reverse as I doubted myself!

 

Its an 02 something 6 speed, 02M I think and definitely has synchro reverse as did my MK1 & MK2 1.9TDi 5 speed Octavias.

 

Like you I am a fan of the self study guides & have several printed off for reference, something I picked up from that one regarding the cable adjustment - after locking the selector linkage at the gearbox end and releasing the cables it says to have the engine idling while doing the rest of the procedure, this would compensate for any movement on the engine mountings, - simply clever!

[CReese123]

18 hours ago, FabiaGonzales said:

 

Looks like i'm getting a new house then! These gearboxes have synchromesh on all gears except for reverse (it's the good old dog engagement type, and that's why you get people going "ohmagerd sometimes reverse gear won't go in unless i lift the clutch for a moment, my gearbox must be broke and this car is the worst thing ever made" - because the teeth just happen to be aligned in a way that it won't engage..)

 

1st and 2nd are double synchronised, to quote from the 02T gearbox workshop guide/manual: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_237_d1.pdf

 

That will have an effect that makes 1st and 2nd a bit clunkier to shift into.

 

I have found that the gearbox likes to be shifted with a big more weight to the throw. Trying to shift it really gently and lightly results in a clunky shift.

 

 

That makes sense as I am a weightless shifter (I put as minimal weight as I can into it), so I'm not used to shifting hard.... just to clarify 1st and 2nd double synchro? Does this apply to MK3 fabia? And that'll cause clunkiness and resistance? I thought synchros do the opposite.

 

14 hours ago, J.R. said:

Every day is a learning day, I even had to drive my car forwards & shove it into reverse as I doubted myself!

 

Its an 02 something 6 speed, 02M I think and definitely has synchro reverse as did my MK1 & MK2 1.9TDi 5 speed Octavias.

 

Like you I am a fan of the self study guides & have several printed off for reference, something I picked up from that one regarding the cable adjustment - after locking the selector linkage at the gearbox end and releasing the cables it says to have the engine idling while doing the rest of the procedure, this would compensate for any movement on the engine mountings, - simply clever!

 

Same lol. I like to learn but obviously thoroughly read before trying anything new.. 

 

Popped by the garage yesterday too. They said possibly wearing clutch... I said no as it has a new clutch and was like this prior to the new clutch.. they then said it may just be a feature on the car (an unfortunate one at that). They basically said it's not advisable to throw money at it as it's not causing any issues right now... they said unless it causes further problems shifting I may just be assuming there's something wrong when there isn't.

 

I also mentioned gear linkage reset/ adjustment... but they said there's no way to do it as they are factory set. I disagree with their last statement mind.

[nta16]

CReese123, as you seem very open to questions and ideas. -

 

Do others that drive the car find the same problem?

 

Have you driven other 5-speed Fabias to compare?

 

Here's an old one, footwell mats, not too many or too thick or loose so it folds over and restrict full clutch pedal push.

 

On my wife's 2015 5-speed Fabia I find 1st (and reverse) a bit notchy and it feels like the 'cogs' are against each other rather than meshing - but some of that could be me, the driver's technique, you might be better than me.  For 1st best to have the car stopped ,or near enough, and not have the engine revs too high, say at first running the engine or having a heavy right foot resting on accelerator pedal.

 

I changed the gearbox oil on my wife's car and it helped with the feel of gear shifting but it still feels a little notchy but not that bad and is soon gotten used to.  Driving my neighbour's car yesterday (28k-miles at 15 years old) the gear shift felt like putting the lever into slots and unconnected but not in a bad way and eased with use, an entirely different fell to our two cars.  When my wife drove the cars as the pedals were vey direct and quick acting at first she was slightly dragging the clutch and not lifting off the accelerator enough and quick enough.  As she's using that car today I bet she notices how different the Fabia is tomorrow.

 

[mark999]

It may help to bleed the clutch - it’s often a neglected maintenance job.

Mark

[nta16]

7 minutes ago, mark999 said:

It may help to bleed the clutch - it’s often a neglected maintenance job.

Mark

And changing the clutch fluid - but I was thinking this wasn't a hydraulic clutch in this case.