Does your value always show between 0.7 and 0.8 regardless of coolant temp?

 

Could you check your 'Operating Status' when warm? Mine shows 'Not OK' but two days ago it was showing as 'OK'

I don't know if this value changes on the cat temperate, or if my post-cat o2 sensor is intermittently faulty.

 

Thanks for your help so far.

Edited 25 November, 20214 yr by the_slug

I will take you few pics this morning.

I think your O2 sensor is faulty, or to say I am sure.

Fortunatelly it is the cheaper one.

If you tell this data to any mechanic around you, they will say the same. 

Except there is some other reading for Sensor 2, but I am also sure it is this one. 

You can try to disconnect it and see the difference by urself.

It alsi has logic to your negative fuel trims, it is reading Rich condition, and thus removing fuel constantly.

Thanks @Bingodalton

 

In case my sensor is faulty could you give me the part number? I'd image it's the same as your superb.

Here are data.

- not started

- started

- cold

- heated

Check if it ever starts to change voltage from 1.275V

@Bingodalton I took the car out and drove it quite hard. Here is the results:
 

This looks fine then. Is it working better after hard drive?

Is O2 sensor changing its behavior when you are at idle and it is cooling down?

Have you checked for errors with VCDS now when you have it? Do the AutoScan.

 

If I get out of the car, and then get back in 30 minutes later the car will misfire at idle.

 

The O2 sensor reverts back to 1.275V when this happens.

 

19 hours ago, Bingodalton said:

Have you checked for errors with VCDS now when you have it? Do the AutoScan.

 

 

The car has one fault for the N82 valve, but this is just a fault with the heater matrix. I'm fixing this myself in a couple of weeks. This shouldn't cause misfires.

 

Out of curiosity: What is your long term fuel trim?

3 hours ago, the_slug said:

If I get out of the car, and then get back in 30 minutes later the car will misfire at idle.

 

The O2 sensor reverts back to 1.275V when this happens.

IIRC the O2 sensors have a heater, maybe the heater in you O2 sensor is FUBAR?

2 hours ago, PetrolDave said:

IIRC the O2 sensors have a heater, maybe the heater in you O2 sensor is FUBAR?

 

Hey @PetrolDave

 

It could be. But when the misfires start if you apply any load to the engine (Air con for example) the misfires stop and idle becomes butter smooth.

The issue only happens when the engine has been warmed up, left to sit, then started up again. Touching the throttle cures it.

 

Quite the strange issue I have, huh?

Edited 27 November, 20214 yr by the_slug

I will check it up when I get home.

These engines were made to work under strict emission norms, this is why they have problem on idle.

I thought about your heater malfunction too.

I'm not sure if I can believe it, but it seems to be quite a common problem in the USA: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/weird-idle.329694/

 

Quote

I noticed this as well. Only 1300 miles on my MK7 GTI (Picked it up on the 5th of March).
It doesn't always happen for me, and I usually only notice it when the engine is warm and I've had the car idling for a minute or so. My RPM needle stays completely steady, but you can feel a little bump vibration every couple seconds. The first time it happened I immediately scanned the car for any ECU codes, and nothing came up.

I read up on it and it seems pretty typical of this engine -- most people call it a "fish-bite" or a "heartbeat". I don't think it's anything to be concerned with honestly.

 

I did it with Torque.

 

Engine not running

 

- Emgine started - around 50c temperature

 

- Engine running after 10s. Cat is still cold.

 

- Engine running, cat heated

 

 - Engine running, cat heated.

I had to run it on 2000rpm in order to heat it. If I leave it on idle, cat temp goes down, and O2 S2 goes to 0.2V again. Not consuming O2.

 

Thank you.

 

Here's the fault from VCDS on the N82 valve:

 

                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 06K-907-425-V1.clb
Control Module Part Number: 5G0 906 259     HW: 06K 907 425 B
  Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4 TFSI  H13 0007
           Software Coding: 0C1900322424010B0000
            Work Shop Code: WSC 73430 031 00125
              ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TFS0215G0906259 001011 (SK37)
                       ROD: EV_ECM20TFS0215G0906259.rod
                      VCID: 6B83CF67F30678C3623-803E
1 Fault Found:

15454 - Blocking Valve for Coolant (N82) 
          P1888 00 [109] - Short to Plus
          Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Mileage: 67939 km
                    Date: 2021.11.22
                    Time: 14:54:22

                    Engine RPM: 697.75 /min
                    Normed load value: 7.5 %
                    Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                    Coolant temperature: 96 °C
                    Intake air temperature: 38 °C
                    Ambient air pressure: 1030 mbar
                    Voltage terminal 30: 14.765 V
                    Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
                    Engine: operating status: IS
                    STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL
                    T_AST_SAE: 0 s
                    MAP_MES_SAE: 29 kPa
                    Lambda probe voltage: bank 1: probe 1 (broadband probe): 1.699 V
                    FAC_TPS_1_SAE: 11.718750 %
                    FUP_H_SAE: 13460.0 kPa


Readiness: 1010 0001

 

I very much doubt this has anything to do with my issue.

 

I just wish the car would give me a fault code to correspond with the misfires!

Yes, this should not be a problem.

What your readiness say? What did not passed the test?

Vcds > Engine > Readiness

Hi @Bingodalton

 

Sorry about the delay replying, work has been hectic.

 

Here is my readiness:

 

 

As my car is a Petrol I assume I don't need to worry about the EGR failure?

Petrols have EGR too.

Isn't that controlled via the VVT on the Petrol models though?
I have this afternoon just swapped the magnetic adjuster on the intake cam so maybe that's why it's showing as failed? I know it can take a few miles of driving to pass readiness tests.

Edited 2 December, 20214 yr by the_slug

5 minutes ago, the_slug said:

Isn't that controlled via the VVT on the Petrol models though?

Probably, yes.

What year and engine code?

17 minutes ago, Wino said:

Probably, yes.

What year and engine code?

 

Hey @Wino!

 

2014 CHHB (220PS)

No reference to EGR in the parts catalogue as far as I can see on that code: 

 

engine Octavia (OCT) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)

 

intake system; vacuum system - Octavia(OCT) [EUROPA 2014 year] (7zap.com)

Edited 2 December, 20214 yr by Wino
missing words

Interesting.

 

Must be controlled via the VVT then. So I guess I just need to drive more to get the readiness to "Pass"

I replaced the intake magnet and took it out for a drive, then ran a scan so I guess I haven't driven it enough yet?

Check in few days, after some miles

 

Sorry to dig this topic out. Have you identified why LTFT is constantly negative 10 up to 13? Have the same and can't figure out. Is it normal for this engine.