Yes but there is a difference from this to your issue, your car didn't have a rough idle it had a high idle and only from starting from cold.  The two things can have different causes but the checks would crossover depending on the cause so worth a look as long as you realise the difference in the issues.

 

34 minutes ago, nta16 said:

and only from starting from cold.

 

Only from start in the basement 5 floors below where the air is less and restricted flow than outside.

I posted the article for informational purpose.

😎

On 03/12/2021 at 13:46, D.FYLAKTOS said:

I posted the article for informational purpose.

😎

Many apologises I totally misunderstood your purpose, been adopting the attitudes of posters from the other forums too much, associated information, I like to post similar.

 

Carry on , thank you for doing so.

 

@nta16 : No problem, the more you digging for some things the more you learn.

Articles like this gave me the idea to look more for the air intake section, an extra fog light that i have added beside the factory fog light i think restricts the incoming air somehow. I have to do some corrections.

I always used a radiator grill muff to get the engine up to temperature. If you start the engine

(always remain with the car) and idle for about 20 seconds to make sure the oil is circulating then

move off you should be fine.

3 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Articles like this gave me the idea to look more for the air intake section, an extra fog light that i have added beside the factory fog light i think restricts the incoming air somehow. I have to do some corrections.

Yes anything that restricts the air getting to and through the radiator or to the engine particularly in a hot country will not help with cooling and running.

 

Greetings gentlemen!!  Very interesting topic!! I also living in Greece but in northern colder climate witch at winter many times we have temperatures around 0 C. 

I'm facing three different scenarios. 

 

Scenario No1: Morning cold start in about 4C, 1100 rpm and when the coolant  temperature reaches 70C it goes 800rpm in about 4-5minutes. 

 

Scenario No2: Morning cold start in about 4C, 1100 rpm, about 20sec later, 800rpm. 

 

Scenario No3: Morning cold start in about 4C, 800rpm, rough idling, and weird noises coming from the engine, like something mettalic is hitting. After the temperature comes normal at 90C everything is ok.  

I'm using Mobil1 Super 2000 X1 10w40

Edited 7 December, 20214 yr by HappySkoda

16 minutes ago, HappySkoda said:

Scenario No1:

when the coolant  temperature reaches 70C it goes 800rpm in about 4-5minutes. 

 4-5 minutes when you are static or while moving?

 

Static. 

Have you checked your coolant sensor and perhaps your coolant thermostat?

 

Do you regularly change your coolant?  What coolant do you use?

 

Why do you leave the car idling for 4-5 minutes?

 

0c isn't cold for 10w, do you change the engine oil & filter in a timely and regular manner?

 

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Have you checked your coolant sensor and perhaps your coolant thermostat?

 

Do you regularly change your coolant?  What coolant do you use?

 

Why do you leave the car idling for 4-5 minutes?

 

0c isn't cold for 10w, do you change the engine oil & filter in a timely and regular manner?

 

Coolant sensor and thermostat all brand new genuine. The sensor with blue ring and VW and Audi logos on it. 

Every 2 years i replace the coolant with Mannol G12 pink colour.in 2 months i will replace it. 

Every 8000km i change all of them. Oil, all the filters and the spark plugs. 

The reason is to make the metal expansions beeing smoothly. 

Why do you leave the car idling for 4-5 minutes?

 

Sorry forgot a basic question - is your car thoroughly factory standard or have you made changes, modifications, improvements use different parts from factory standard (excluding the sensor and thermostat of course)?

 

 

22 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Sorry forgot a basic question - is your car thoroughly factory standard or have you made changes, modifications, improvements use different parts from factory standard (excluding the sensor and thermostat of course)?

 

 

Factory contition, even the tire sizes. 

Clean injectors, and check with vcds if the car goes in closed loop

6 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Clean injectors, and check with vcds if the car goes in closed loop

I have cleaned them. What is vcds?

41 minutes ago, HappySkoda said:

What is vcds?

 

Go to a Skoda repair shop or another if there is no one close to you.

The mechanic will connect a laptop or another device to your OBD 1 port that you have and after a short scanning he will see if there are any errors (from sensor etc) and he wiil erase them.

 

Is G12 pink colour coolant the original specification coolant?

 

VW don't seem to know what to do about coolant for their later cars with changes in specification, there could be many reasons for these changes, sometimes they just get things wrong but never admit it obviously.

 

Are there any other differences in the three starting scenarios, one or more at high altitude an/or one or more subterranean level 5 car park?

 

Did you do ALL the checks and things suggested to D.FYLAKTOS in this thread?

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

Is G12 pink colour coolant the original specification coolant?

 

VW don't seem to know what to do about coolant for their later cars with changes in specification, there could be many reasons for these changes, sometimes they just get things wrong but never admit it obviously.

 

Are there any other differences in the three starting scenarios, one or more at high altitude an/or one or more subterranean level 5 car park?

 

Did you do ALL the checks and things suggested to D.FYLAKTOS in this thread?

 

No other differences in the three scenarios. Except one common thing. High consumption.  By the first opportunity i will go to a Bosch car service and try to find out what's going on. I believe is something electrical issue. 

Speaking about altitude, the place that i live is at the sea level. 

13 minutes ago, HappySkoda said:

High consumption.

If you mean your car is using a lot of fuel then get it sorted or looked at as soon as possible, a scan tool will help with odd or intermittent problems but high fuel consumption should give a mechanic a good idea of where to look without a scan tool.

 

14 hours ago, nta16 said:

Is G12 pink colour coolant the original specification coolant?

 

The factory specifications are:

 

G11 1994 ,VW TL 774 C

G12 / G12+ 1996 ,VW TL 774 D/F

G12++ 2005 ,VW TL 774 G

G13 2008 ,VW TL 774 J

 

Felicia had G11 Green colour from the factory, G11 now can be found in Blue colour in many brands.

 

@HappySkoda : is your air filter clean or new? Is your throttle cleaned with spray lately?

51 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

The factory specifications are:

 

G11 1994 ,VW TL 774 C

G12 / G12+ 1996 ,VW TL 774 D/F

G12++ 2005 ,VW TL 774 G

G13 2008 ,VW TL 774 J

 

Felicia had G11 Green colour from the factory, G11 now can be found in Blue colour in many brands.

 

@HappySkoda : is your air filter clean or new? Is your throttle cleaned with spray lately?

New one, and yes my mechanic has clean the throttle body with a specific spray cleaner. 

Although the coolant colours can be anything nowadays the old coolants that you had to change at nominally every two years used to be blue or green and they might not mix well with the later often pink coolants.  I don't know VWs confusing system of coolant numbering (other than they seem to keep changing their minds as to what is to be used).

 

When you empty out the coolant, depending on how thorough you are, some or a lot of the old coolant and contaminants residue is left in the system so that will mix with the fresh coolant you put in.

 

The old coolants were IAT, lifted from a site - 

 

"IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology) coolant contains either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, and is generally green or blue in colour.  This is the traditional coolant that is used by most classic vehicles. 

OAT (Organic Acid Technology) is typically found in more modern coolant systems.  It is often orange or pink, and should not be mixed with IAT coolant.

HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) is commonly used in vehicles from the 1990s onwards.  There is no defined colour scheme, and again it should not be mixed with the other types."

 

@HappySkoda : Have you ever clean the inside of the 4 black sockets (mpouzopipes in Greek) of the ignition coil?

The spark plugs are as the factory ones, Champion RC89PYC ?

 

 

These about G11 and the others.