How much time do you warm-up your Felicia?

[HappySkoda]

And few minutes later of static warm-up i was ready to go. 

[nta16]

 

Just to sum up (I hope I have got this right). -

 

On 07/12/2021 at 14:08, HappySkoda said:

Scenario No1: Morning cold start in about 4C, 1100 rpm and when the coolant  temperature reaches 70C it goes 800rpm in about 4-5minutes. 

 

Scenario No2: Morning cold start in about 4C, 1100 rpm, about 20sec later, 800rpm. 

 

Scenario No3: Morning cold start in about 4C, 800rpm, rough idling, and weird noises coming from the engine, like something mettalic is hitting. After the temperature comes normal at 90C everything is ok.  

I'm using Mobil1 Super 2000 X1 10w40

 

 

Video at 7:56 am idles at just below an indicated 1,000, temp gauge needle on it's rest stop, knocking noise - https://youtu.be/9HRhuTTBtKE 

 

A few hours later, 12:22 pm idle is at about an indicated 1,100 ("And few hours later, Scenario No1(?)).  Two or three minutes later about indicated 800+ and 70c.  To me you didn't need or want a static warm up here.

 

It is probably just a generation thing but if you hold the camera horizontally (landscape) you will get more more visual information in without having to move the camera so much.

 

To me the revs are too low on the cold morning starts, scenario 3 and video, causing the knocking noise - so what's causing that is the question.

 

Edited 13 December, 2021 by nta16
ETA: word 'noise'

[Thefeliciahacker]

19 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

https://youtu.be/9HRhuTTBtKE  

Ok guys, Scenario No3 today early morning with 7C temperature. 

Absolutely perfect start

[Thefeliciahacker]

The knocking is not knocking is just minute rev factuation and not pre ignition 

[HappySkoda]

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Absolutely perfect start

Sorry but I didn't get you. Perfect by witch way? 

[HappySkoda]

20 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

 

To me the revs are too low on the cold morning starts, scenario 3 and video, causing the knocking - so what's causing that is the question.

 

I'm wondering what causing the low revs cold morning start... 🤔🤔 For me the ideal cold start is 1100revs static warm-up, 3-4 minutes to get 70C  without any engine load and the metal expansions to be smoothly. 

Edited 13 December, 2021 by HappySkoda

[Thefeliciahacker]

3 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

Perfect by witch way

Perfect rpm perfect everything 

[Thefeliciahacker]

https://youtu.be/cieKoU1DOKI

 

[nta16]

3 hours ago, HappySkoda said:

I'm wondering what causing the low revs cold morning start...

Yes, that is the question.  As it is intermittent it would probably be best investigated when it happens.

 

For mechanical I can only think of the problem with the fresh air diverter flap for the air filter but there could be other mechanical things I can't think of or don't know.

 

For electrics it's the usual starting and cold start items to be check and perhaps tested.  If it is a bit damp under the bonnet then WD-40 for its one good use to disperse water.

 

Electronics needs a scan tool that shows live data.

 

I've just noticed in Thefeliciahacker's video (good camera angle by the way 😁) that he revved the car after starting, I can't think if you done that too, but that could knock of the cold start settings perhaps(?), what are the cold start instructions in the Driver's Handbook?  As far as I see it you keep your foot away from the accelerator pedal when starting the car from cold and use use the accelerator pedal when pulling off.

 

In my car if the running from start was like that I would pull the choke cable out a bit more to speed the idle up or perhaps further to make the fuel mixture a little richer.  Bear in mind the engine start-ups, particularly from cold, are wearing on the engine and also you do not want too much petrol at that time washing the oil out.

 

Edited 13 December, 2021 by nta16

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Tomorrow morning i will be at the ECU-chip repair shop.

My Felicia has the same problem with @HappySkoda but ONLY at the second cold start of the day (the car is on the parking, cooled for 6-7 hours). I was blaiming the air (5 floors beneath earth) but i am not sure for this.

[Thefeliciahacker]

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

revved the car after starting

I didnt ahahahah

[nta16]

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I didnt ahahahah

Sorry I mixed up the two videos, it was HappySkoda revved before turning off, I was trying to get two posts into one and failed.  I must have mixed up the videos as I thought yours was a lot longer than it actually is, perhaps my brain combined and edited the two videos.  😄  Careful videoing with your keys in your hand though as you do not want your door frame scratched. 

 

Good camera alignment.  👍 😄

 

[nta16]

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Tomorrow morning i will be at the ECU-chip repair shop.

My Felicia has the same problem with @HappySkoda but ONLY at the second cold start of the day (the car is on the parking, cooled for 6-7 hours). I was blaiming the air (5 floors beneath earth) but i am not sure for this.

I thought yours was sorted with that flap, obviously not.

 

[nta16]

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I didnt ahahahah

And I apologise again as I meant to start my last post to you with saying sorry  - but I was interrupted and lost my thoughts.

 

Edited 13 December, 2021 by nta16
spelling

[nta16]

I also was going to ask if in Greece you have changes in petrol for 'summer' and 'winter' seasons, not mentioned at the pumps but done at refineries?

 

Or  D.FYLAKTOS and HappySkoda were buying their petrol from reliable and consistent sources or sometimes have to go with what they can get where they are at the time?

 

First time ever last year (because of Covid lockdown restrictions?) I got  a bit of 'milky' petrol that caused my car to run lean, bit of slight misfire and splutter when pulling off after slowing for pulling out from a stop at T-junctions, no computers to sort it, I could have pull the choke cable but accelerating harder was enough to clear things until the next T-junction stop.

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

26 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Or  D.FYLAKTOS and HappySkoda were buying their petrol from reliable and consistent sources or sometimes have to go with what they can get where they are at the time?

 

In city i buy from brand gas stations and not from private ones. In country only from gas stations that i have informations from locals otherwise i avoid then.

Those in the city i have checked them so many times with my car or my motorcycle and keep in mind that on the net we talk each other or read the test results so if a gas station do something wrong then next day is on the "black list".

It's a matter or time for a gas station to establish a quality "name" and in case which is "bad" will start losing customers day by day till it close.

[nta16]

Wow, I have not seen we have such groups here but perhaps we do.  Generally the petrol and diesel here is very reliable and so are the petrol station (perhaps some their customers less so though).

 

Reportedly there are 8,380 petrol stations in Britain most are branded by the oil companies or the supermarkets, there were reportedly 12,305 twenty years ago and around 40,000 in the mid-1960s.

 

With have E10, 95 octane (RON) or E5, 97/98/99 octane with additional additive packages including more cleaning - and rarer to find E5 ethanol free 99 and 97 patrols with additional additives and cleaners.

 

Buyers are quite polarised (like with many things over here) with some putting in the higher priced 97-99 brands and avoiding the 95 and others wanting the cheapest cost they can find and saying the 97-99 is a total waste which often they are more or less correct with.

 

[Thefeliciahacker]

So guys that is exactly the same scenario as @HappySkoda

My tacho reads about 200rpm lower and thats checked with vcds.

I will also make a vcds cold start when I can.

Edited 14 December, 2021 by Thefeliciahacker

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Here is mine, night 9:11 o'clock in a basement 5 floors below earth with much higher temperature than outside but with air not so thick.

See the needle, it goes about 1100 rpm and stays there for at least 3+ minutes.

 

https://i.imgur.com/Yy9NZgh.mp4

 

and look what's happening after those minutes.

 

 

Everything goes to normal, i think i going to ''snap'' and start breaking things here.

[nta16]

4 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

So guys that is exactly the same scenario as @HappySkoda

 

My tacho reads about 200rpm lower and thats checked with vcds.

I will also make a vcds cold start when I can.

Another good video, and to me the idle sounds (at least) 200 above what the needle indicates but you have no knocking noises.

 

On a different subject, for the internal condensation you could try something like a Pingi bag, or two, (other makes and types available). -https://pingi.com/product-category/car-dehumidifier/

 

And another subject again, I notice LPG seems popular with you chaps, is that the case for Greece generally?

 

Whereas over here it was never that popular and to me has gone off a lot in the last couple of decades(?).  My neighbour has it on the "classic" and LPG is still a lot cheaper than petrol but is not always available at the petrol stations that are supposed to sell it.

 

And I've noticed NGK do different spark plugs for LPG.

 

[nta16]

22 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Everything goes to normal, i think i going to ''snap'' and start breaking things here.

There's no sound on the video for me but everything looks fine to me, apart from the camera orientation of course. 🙂

 

[D.FYLAKTOS]

13 minutes ago, nta16 said:

There's no sound on the video for me but everything looks fine to me, apart from the camera orientation of course. 🙂

 

 

The video is with sound, i uploaded in purpose with this so everyone can here the motor when it starts.

I used Best Camera application with macro, it was night and i was in a hurry to return home.

Today the car is in the ECU-programmer so last night i had only one chance to take a video.

[D.FYLAKTOS]

 

You must click on the sound icon to turn the Sound ON.

[D.FYLAKTOS]

Here is another video of last night just few seconds till the needle drops to 850 rpm, now is about 1000.

 

https://i.imgur.com/6liowjL.mp4

 

It's 9:14 and before the minute close and goes to 9:14 the idle was as it should be so there is a gap of 3+ minutes, for that time the idle is 1100-1000 which is not good.

I can not find the solution. 😠

 

 

[nta16]

Thanks, I found the button to turn the sound on.

 

The video from last night has the revs jumping just after initial starting, is that the car or you on the accelerator pedal?