Fog light switch not pull out

[DensYeti]

2010 1.2 Tsi SE petrol Yeti. First indication of  problem at March 2020 MOT advice notice fog light switch stiff to activate.  Tried switch and yes was a bit stiff to pull out after turn to side lights on and head lights on.  Some time later...months or weeks during 2020 when car little used had to do a run during which bad rain weather encountered and switch was normal and easy to turn and pull out to both positions.  Now and again on various occasions I tried switch and still easy function with all lights working.  Then another trip with bad weather and switch turns to side then head lights but will not pull out for fog and rear warning (this during day).  There is absolutely no movement when try to pull out to first position whether switch in lights off, side only or side and head positions.

1. What could possibly be causing this?

 

2.  How do you get at the switch (detailed instructions please including how to remove any panel as I am all too aware how easy it is to break little plastic holding lugs)

Edited 30 December, 2021 by DensYeti
missed a bit of fault description

[J.R.]

Operating knob will only pull out for the foglamp function in sidelight or headlight position.

 

Google & Youtube will show you how to remove the switch, its a case having the knob in a certain position to allow its removal, I can't recall if the outer trim has to be removed but it will just lever out, use a plastic pry tool to protect it.

 

Once removed I would hold it with the knob facing downwards and whack it down onto a worktop a few times to dislodge anything, some switch cleaner sprayed behind the knob along the spindle shaft can only help.

[Frenchtone]

Switch off, gentle turn on pushing and it releases the holding pins, gently pull out, nothing else to do apart from dismount the plug, just a pull as I recall!!

[muppix]

Got a sunroof? Might be worth pulling off the fuse compartment cover to see if there's any water damage while you're at it. It's not uncommon for any leaks to make their way down the A-pillar trim and start corroding the metalwork in there, which may be related to whatever's messing with your light switch.

[DensYeti]

OK thanks for replies.  Can see how switch comes out.

Next question....how to open up switch to clean/check for (seen somewhere) tracks on printed circuit boards

[Urrell]

4 minutes ago, DensYeti said:

Next question....how to open up switch to clean/check for (seen somewhere) tracks on printed circuit boards

That when you get it out should be obvious with a spudger or similar tool, if it is possible.

[DensYeti]

 spudger????  

Like to know exact details of jobs before attempting so I don't end up doing more damage than good 😀

 

Since the facia on these switches on a lot of the Skoda seem to look the same (except for AUTO position) it is good to know part number...or if maybe if pins in plugs on some are just redundant and not used.  Certainly Fabia looks same on front but has different plug or socket.

Ebay has 2011 1.6 TDi  - part 5LO941431G which looks same.

[Urrell]

11 minutes ago, DensYeti said:

Like to know exact details of jobs before attempting so I don't end up doing more damage than good 

If that's the case I would get someone who knows a little about switches to do it.

[Frenchtone]

The pcbs are at the back, you need either a small allen key or a small torx, the  rear then just lifts off to reveal the boards more key work to remove them and the you shou be able to see the drive shaft etc may then a squirt of wd40. I have had mine open as i suffered burned out copper tracks on the board, used very fine insulated wire to jump the leads, it worked fine.

You can buy a replacement on ebay not the cheap chinese jobs a second hand yeti/octavia gof passat etc some ar not white lighted but red. I have a red one, as a spare, it is out of sight when night driving!!

Good luck

Edited 30 December, 2021 by Frenchtone

[TruckbusUK]

23 minutes ago, DensYeti said:

 spudger????  

Spudger ... quaint old name for a nylon or wooden non-marking pry tool.

[gumdrop]

4 hours ago, DensYeti said:

2010 1.2 Tsi SE petrol Yeti. First indication of  problem at March 2020 MOT advice notice fog light switch stiff to activate.  Tried switch and yes was a bit stiff to pull out after turn to side lights on and head lights on.  Some time later...months or weeks during 2020 when car little used had to do a run during which bad rain weather encountered and switch was normal and easy to turn and pull out to both positions.  Now and again on various occasions I tried switch and still easy function with all lights working.  Then another trip with bad weather and switch turns to side then head lights but will not pull out for fog and rear warning (this during day).  There is absolutely no movement when try to pull out to first position whether switch in lights off, side only or side and head positions.

1. What could possibly be causing this?

 

2.  How do you get at the switch (detailed instructions please including how to remove any panel as I am all too aware how easy it is to break little plastic holding lugs)

I always try switch cleaner/lubricant on electrics before spending lots of money.

I can remember sawing switches open and repairing copper tracks, a lot of work

that a quick squirt of the master chemists blend of chemicals can sort in a trice.

[Frenchtone]

you can pick a new(recycled) switch up for £15 - £ 20 fleabay

[Welshyetiman]

I had a Suzuki bike, a cursory check before its MOT showed the front brake light switch was faulty. Googling showed plenty for sale, but not before following mornings MOT! Incidentally other people had posted , immerse switch in WD40 overnight. With nothing to loose I ziptied a small plastic bag around the switch, flushed it through with WD and left. 
 

12 hours later switch working like a gud un, no mechanical intervention needed, Mot pass. 

On 08/12/2021 at 09:22, Welshyetiman said:

 

13 hours ago, gumdrop said:

I always try switch cleaner/lubricant on electrics before spending lots of money.

I can remember sawing switches open and repairing copper tracks, a lot of work

that a quick squirt of the master chemists blend of chemicals can sort in a trice.

[DensYeti]

Thanks to all replies.

Does anyone know the actual spare part number for the correct switch for the 1.2 2010 Yeti?  There are many switches to be found on ebay etc that look the same but on further digging can be seen to have difference , e.g. different plugs, different functions.

As a retired electronics engineer used to dealing with many sophisticated sea going electronics I am aware that it is all too easy to cause damage by connecting wrong terminals (differing wiring in the same physical plugs)

I don't want to cause a bigger problem.   There are times when ignorance is bliss causing less stress😀

Which makes are reliable?  There is one site selling 9 different make/price from £50+ to around £10.  Unfortunately, though the date and make of Yeti are entered, most of the switches they show, when clicking on details say not suitable for your car!!!!!!

Being a bit isolated I don't want to put car out of action.  Switch now becoming a bit stiffer even just switching side then head.  Am wondering if I squirt switch cleaner fluid on switch,  still in dashboard, whether any danger of dripping down inside dash onto anything below and causing any other damage (short cut?)

Dennis

Edited 17 January, 2022 by DensYeti

[Urrell]

10 minutes ago, DensYeti said:

Does anyone know the actual spare part number for the correct switch for the 1.2 2010 Yeti?

I suspect it's going to be the one with the fewest functions as yours is showing "S" model.
Why not order through a Skoda dealer, they should know what one by your registration number or VIN.
https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2010-666/9/941-941050/

[Llanigraham]

2 hours ago, Urrell said:

I suspect it's going to be the one with the fewest functions as yours is showing "S" model.
Why not order through a Skoda dealer, they should know what one by your registration number or VIN.
https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2010-666/9/941-941050/

Caffyns are good and offer very good prices,

[DensYeti]

New switch (second hand) received and fitted and all lights working again.  Removing switch from dashboard was a bit touch and go as push in and twist in off position proved rather stiff!

Now I would like to dismantle switch to see if can free it up, so questions:-

1.  3 small Allan key screws on base - what size key?  I have many but can't find one that seems to fit well.  1/16 inch too big, 1.5mm too small 2mm too big.

(Using calliper to measure across flats and readings on allan key pack holder)

 

 

2. Once undone does whole innards just slide out and will there be any bits falling off (springs/ball bearings etc)?  (will dismantle inside a plastic bag to catch any bits)

 

3. 3 little tags around side of top rim - does rim have to come off first (can see knob slightly sticks out over rim so may prevent innards with knob from just sliding out the back once 3 screws removed?)  Does black rim just prise over the grey tag?   (spudger poised) 

 

 

 

4 What exactly is the order of opening up and striping down?

 

Once achieved will do write up with details and  photos.  Would be really good if someone who has done it could give details and maybe pictures to help me achieve fixing without wrecking switch.

Dennis

[Urrell]

10 minutes ago, DensYeti said:

3 small Allan key screws on base - what size key?

They are Torx screws.

[DensYeti]

3 hours ago, Urrell said:

They are Torx screws.

Ah-ha.  my sets only go down to T10....should have realised there were smaller just like watchmakers sets.  2 t5 bits on order now.

[DensYeti]

I thought the TORX went down in size by a factor of 5. Hence thought next size down from 10 was T5 which is why I ordered T5 bits.  But when received they were far too small. Found tables that give specification sizes for TORX (alternative name is STAR) , distance across points being one measurement but my poor old eyes found it too difficult to get a good measure but around 2mm.  Ordered a set of 6 cheap screwdrivers - T5, T6, T7, T8, T9, T10 - arrived today and it turns out T6 seems to be the size that fits (not T7 that I thought my point to point measurement indicated).

 

Can anyone else confirm T6?

 

Would still like to know order of dismantling to get at innards to see what may be causing the  stiffness in turning the switch.

Does the top rim have to come off....3 little tags in photo 2....don't seem to have enough hands to hold all 3 in at same time......or can you just pry the very flimsy looking black lip on each over the grey tag and it will stay clear so escutcheon can be lifted off over the switch knob? . Does that bit even have to come off to get at bits that might be causing lack of rotation.

 

By the way WD40 Water Dispersent formula 40 will leave an insulating residue on switch contacts  (bad experience on a ship when a junior sprayed inside several boxes containing many largish relays causing much malfunctioning of communications system such that very very many relay contacts had to be individually cleaned.

 

Dennis

[DensYeti]

Now managed to get time to have another look at switch.

1.  The 3 screws on the bottom of the switch removed with T6 screw driver.  The bottom does not just come off to reveal the circuit boards as someone previously suggested.  Pulling on the bottom bit pulls it out a little bit but it is spring loaded and springs back.  That is with switch turned to off position.  Turned to side or head the bottom bit does not spring out even a little bit.

 

2. Became bolder and with small flat screwdriver I prised under and twisted at the 3 small tags + 1 round the bezel (photo 2). You have to prize under the light grey part of the bezel,  not just try to lift the black rim.  Also where the flat is on the body there is another tag that needs to be levered up then the bezel can be lifted off.  But still none the wiser how to get any further.

 

 

 

 

3. looking into the top I can see that the switch would have to be in the sidelight position for the overhanging switch knob to pass down through a cut out channel in the body.  (still no pull out function possible for fog).

 

 

So where to go from here???

[DensYeti]

Frenchtone

You say 3 bottom screws out and bottom just comes off.  As you can see from my above remarks my one seems held in place by a spring.......are/were you able to see why that might be when you had yours in bits?  Did it take much force to remove the bottom plate?   Any photos of innards?  Anyone any photos of innards?

 

Dennis

[Frenchtone]

i'll look later!

[Frenchtone]

Haven't forgotten this, I located my spare, repaired switch yesterday, I''ll pull it apart later and report back!

[Frenchtone]

Ok, some photos of the back

Remove back casing, then pcb held on by small plastic clips , a gentle push with something small should make them clear the mounting holes, the pcb then just eases out.

There are then the contactors, one easily removes, the large one which moves has a plunger underneath, didn't remove that, but retracting the plunger should enable its removal, then you should have access to the spindle etc. Although I suppose a spray with wd or similar might free up your problem.

Hope this helps