13 minutes ago, VanhireBoys said:

Lads - Thanks a million for all the replies and sep for that very clear picture of the runner and clamp - There's deffo no way that can come out without the plastic getting broken ! 

 

From working with classics I'd guess that the plastic has got brittle over time.

 

Ahhh well I have to resign myself to the simple fact that I will be replacing the carrier and drilling out the rivets - I will replace with tech screws and I'll do both sides !!

 

I did replace the red-light on the drivers side door which was always missing ! 😆

 

Im going to have to gather up the new carriers and I'll do this when the car goes in for a bit of a tidy up - Getting a few bodywork jobs done soon, not for cosmetic reasons but just to keep on top of a few spots that are starting here and there ! 

 

As I said before my car is no show pony but a good work horse and because of you lads there is no guesswork - Thanks again 

 

No need for new carriers - just the plastic runners - they're on ebay for a few quid...

 

 

46 minutes ago, skomaz said:

 

No need for new carriers - just the plastic runners - they're on ebay for a few quid...

 

 

 

The problem with that is that if the plastic has broken it probably means the regulators are pretty old. He might go to all the trouble to replace just the plastic bits only to have the regulator cable snap shortly after and have to take it all apart again.

Edited 28 January, 20224 yr by TMB

30 minutes ago, TMB said:

 

The problem with that is that if the plastic has broken it probably means the regulators are pretty old. He might go to all the trouble to replace just the plastic bits only to have the regulator cable snap shortly after and have to take it all apart again.

 

To be fair the failure mode is usually the plastic runners breaking and releasing the cable nipples because four of the six terminate at the runners with the other two ending in the cable spool itself, once a nipple comes out of the runner a failure is certain.

16 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

To be fair the failure mode is usually the plastic runners breaking and releasing the cable nipples because four of the six terminate at the runners with the other two ending in the cable spool itself, once a nipple comes out of the runner a failure is certain.

 

Good point.

3 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

To be fair the failure mode is usually the plastic runners breaking and releasing the cable nipples because four of the six terminate at the runners with the other two ending in the cable spool itself, once a nipple comes out of the runner a failure is certain.

Both my fronts have gone and been done. A plastic runner broke both times. Replaced the carrier seal with "caravan/minivan" mastic. One other broken part still in one door. There's two spring compression "hats" allowing a bit of "give" in the cables where they enter the drum/spool. One of mine has failed. I guess that means the shock of the window hitting the stops is less cushioned than usual. It's been that way for many years now though. ... So I'd buy a complete mech kit or a replacement carrier if doing it again, just to ensure I had all of the bits.

 

Bored of drilling out rivets and replacing door card clips too.

That picture I posted is from my son-in-laws car, just rebuilt the regulator from a kit I already had in stock in one of the sheds, waiting for the rivets to turn up in the morning before I reassemble it.

Tbf I've replaced both my front eindow carriers and you can pick them up new for £25 the vomplete unit do maybe best to swop the whole lot out piece of mind then regs snd everything new.

14 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

Tbf I've replaced both my front eindow carriers and you can pick them up new for £25 the vomplete unit do maybe best to swop the whole lot out piece of mind then regs snd everything new.

 

I've replaced everything that wears or breaks, why spend £25 when you've already got all the bits on the shelf.

 

Also I don't need to remove the wiring loom and break all those plastic clips and the speaker mount, rivets turned up today so I'll get it remounted next weekend.

I meant the op mate of course if you have parts on shelf no point in buying anything else 😀

@VanhireBoys Have you been seeing oddness from the electric window on the side with the broken clip?

 

I've been tackling ours today (driver's side) which had - as suspected - some up/down waggle at the rear of the glass when half open. This has indeed turned out to be the same as what you've suffered, broken runner. Good info from @sepulchrave earlier in the thread. 

 

Reason I ask about the electric window is that our driver's side one has been 'mischievous' lately, and I suspect this has been down to the broken runner making life harder for the window motor.

What it's done quite often is that if you have the window down a bit, say one-quarter open, and then you go to close it again, the window goes up a tiny bit and then comes back down. Pretty sure this is the 'anti-pinch' function getting false-triggered by the extra resistance of window glass that's only being moved unevenly by just the front runner. Never seen it go up when commanded down.

 

I was hoping to get to the point of testing it with new regulator panel today to see if that's gone away, but had a few issues fitting my replacement lock unit that I wanted to do at the same time, and now it's too dark. 

22 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

@VanhireBoys Have you been seeing oddness from the electric window on the side with the broken clip?

 

Hi Pete - There's a bit in mine alright now that you say ! You can pull the glass up at the back where its not attached - As far as operation is concerned no real hassle although I did put some runner specific lube (Wurth I think) in the rubbers about 6 months ago as both the windows were squeaky and sticky. This did activate the load sensors before I put the lube in. I dont open the passenger window much at all now as a broken front clip will spell disaster !!

 

Wind deflectors are notorious culprits for this as well - Fairy liquid in the rubbers was a well known hack years ago - Maybe try that in the meantime and see if it gets better !

 

Looks like we are both faced with the same prospect but at least were not the first and wont be the last 😓

Sure enough, new regulator with a full complement of intact runners has removed the up/down weirdness.

 

What a grim job on later cars with riveted panels though. 😢

10 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Sure enough, new regulator with a full complement of intact runners has removed the up/down weirdness.

 

What a grim job on later cars with riveted panels though. 😢

 

Yes, it's a bloody horrible job, everything plastic just seems to crumble to dust, I even had to remove the door lock just to replace the arm for the pop up button, the lock plug locking tag snapped when I tried to refit it, it's just fighting me every step of the way.

On 05/02/2022 at 17:05, sepulchrave said:

 

Yes, it's a bloody horrible job, everything plastic just seems to crumble to dust, I even had to remove the door lock just to replace the arm for the pop up button, the lock plug locking tag snapped when I tried to refit it, it's just fighting me every step of the way.

 

Thanks for that sep I'm really looking forward to this job now 😀 

 

At least I now know what to expect and I'll be prepared 👍

2 minutes ago, VanhireBoys said:

 

Thanks for that sep I'm really looking forward to this job now 😀 

 

At least I now know what to expect and I'll be prepared 👍

 

It won't help, these cars are getting too bloody old now, it's like an archaeological dig every time something needs fixing.