@nta16when you do get the chance to read the pinned threads you will see what was tried over the production years of the CAVE 2010-2012 then CTHE.   The changes first with the spark plug type, then the breather and software updates.  Then the revised engines and still some with excessive oil use. Still some getting another breather mod, Australia. Then the Oil Spray Jets and another software update.   Under 3,000 Skoda Twinchargers in the UK.  Some on rebuilt engines, then new base engines.  Some even on a 3rd engine.  The strange case even of 2 with a 4th engines fitted.     The warming up is not the issue.   The fouling of 1 spark plug very much is and that plug getting cooked.  But since the Twinchargers in the VW,s Audi's and Seat,s had the same potential issues it is all documented.    

There are early cars in the UK like the first 50 that are still running the original engine.

There are plenty remapped, using different plugs and maybe not long life oil and some with long life.

There was about a 25% failure rate in the CAVE cars, 2010-2012 then on.  That was with sh!te Castrol oil or even Quantum Long Life.

Often the cars were running too little oil and running hotter than was good for them but plenty like that survived. 

Many cars left Main Dealers with far too low a quantity of oil and some way overfilled.

Sales people and Service Desk staff were some of the least informed and killed many a car saying they all do that as the drove Demonstrators and Sales cars and waited for Low Oil lights or Messages before a car ever got the oil dipped or topped up and not topped up enough.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/294051-cave-cthe-14tsi-just-reply-please-if-you-have-had-an-engine-replaced

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/353149-fabia-mk2-vrs-14tsi-replacement-engines-replaced-how-many

 

 

 

Edited 27 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

52 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Signature (tag?) -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

Cheers, Nigel.

www.sportingbears.co.uk

 

 

That's what (is supposed, Professional version no doubt) to go into my wife's standard Mk3.

 

 

That'll be a problem always. 

 

I like this local oil blender, this might help a little (or you could ask Millers Oils about their other motorsport oils that might be suitable and can be used for road use)  - Millers Oils EE Performance C3 5w-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-74218-millers-oils-ee-performance-c3-5w-30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

 

Still got a few 4L Castrol Edge Prof as get discount Costco, and yes used same one in MK3

@roottootI read the oil thread and other and the links off those pages but I will be honest and say as I got to page 5 on your just reply please thread and then saw it was of 20 I stopped, I'll take your summary in your post here thanks.

 

I am going to persist with the oil as in the oil thread I saw nothing exceptional for oil or temperatures really, I agree with you that the quantity of oil in the system, and if it was short, is a factor.

 

Either I missed them (always possible) or you used to be in marketing and possibly slightly oversold it but other than a mention of Motul perhaps I saw nothing of track oils let alone race oils (which I didn't mean) and the best they could buy,

 

There was a mention of VAG Longlife 3 which unless it meant the 0w-30w I'm not sure would be extra special oil necessarily, to get to the 0w specification would generally require a better oil and if the VRS could happily take 0w-30 the range of better oils would widen and of course probably flow better when cold and as possibly a better overall oil be er, possibly better overall.

 

Oil temperature seemed inconclusive and I wasn't sure whether all posters were referring to a VRS.  I've had my wife's 1.2 TSI SE in oil temp treble digits a couple of times and I wasn't going that fast for that long.  IIIRC I posted somewhere here that it ran to 93-96C within 5 miles of an 8 mile journey last December, I haven't a clue what oil was actually used by the Dealership only what they put.

 

If I had a VRS regardless of all I've read, in fact more so because of it I would be using an oil similar (or even better) than I've suggested, belt, braces and a bit of string coverage, I might be wasting the extra cost moneywise perhaps but until that was proven I'd feel running on a better oil.

 

I was also looking for Lucifer's guides thinking he was a poster in the thread. 🤣

 

I've got to go now to get fish 'n' chips, I don't want to but I made the mistake of mentioning the subject to the boss and it was democratically decided that's what I'm getting and gonna have, and not an ale in sight!

 

6 hours ago, Kobayashi said:

Still got a few 4L Castrol Edge Prof as get discount Costco, and yes used same one in MK3

We are going off tangent here the OP just wants some advice on why his twincharger is missfiring , it has absolutely nothing to do with oil it’s to do with how a combustion engine works it can’t get anymore simple 

it’s either

spark plugs are on the way out or not gapped correctly

coil packs or coil pack wiring is on the way out 

fuel pump & or injectors & or fuel filter is on the way out 

fuel has absolutely no sway on this issue these cars can and do run on lower octane fuel , different countries I.e turkey & Greece don’t even have 95 octane and still run 

At last some common sense from @thomasaspin, oil brand fairies drive engineers like me crazy, stick to the specs and schedules and you can't go wrong.

It's like all that Sunday paper crap about superfoods, nutritionists are morons and dieticians and doctors laugh like drains at all their nonsense.

It's the illusion of agency, people want to feel special and in control, at least in people the placebo effect actually works, it doesn't bloody work on car engines though!

Do please both of you please try to keep up.

 

thomasaspin (in a spin more like) - you're moaning at at the OP for going off topic!  🤣  And most of your points have previously been dealt with within the thread and linked from, or as you might perceive it a tangent.   It's a pity you weren't with VW when they were designing and building this concept as they need simple solutions.

 

Septular - forget the skim reading no one is suggesting the German engineering at it's finest can and will be cured by any oil, and I can assure you if anyone deserves any sort of placebo from the motor trade it's me!  In buckets loads.

 

So, c'mon, instead of  philosophising what is the solution or answer to the OP's problem - no not his thread drift, to the car engine?

 

14 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Do please both of you please try to keep up.

 

thomasaspin (in a spin more like) - you're moaning at at the OP for going off topic!  🤣  And most of your points have previously been dealt with within the thread and linked from, or as you might perceive it a tangent.   It's a pity you weren't with VW when they were designing and building this concept as they need simple solutions.

 

Septular - forget the skim reading no one is suggesting the German engineering at it's finest can and will be cured by any oil, and I can assure you if anyone deserves any sort of placebo from the motor trade it's me!  In buckets loads.

 

So, c'mon, instead of  philosophising what is the solution or answer to the OP's problem - no not his thread drift, to the car engine?

 

 

I can't get past the towering wall of text that @roottooterects every time another Mk 2 VRS owner dares to ask a question, it's always the same, an Aspergers saliva storm breaks like a tsunami and floods the thread with irrelevance that only he knows, all sense and reason drown in the backwash of ad-hominem attacks he then mounts to maintain his status as king of twincharger trivia mountain.

 

Dude, sometimes the juice just ain't worth the squeeze.

Suck some petrol from the bottom of the tank when the level is low and see if there is water in it.      Simple.  10 minute job. 

If not then not the problem. 

35 minutes ago, roottoot said:

Suck some petrol from the bottom of the tank when the level is low and see if there is water in it.      Simple.  10 minute job. 

If not then not the problem. 

Your acting like water in the combustion chamber is a bad thing ? I literally squirt water into the combustion chamber mixed with methanol to allow me to push 2 bar of boost in the Rev limit …. 

@thomasaspin  I know you do, you are my hero. 

But you do not take the water from the fuel tank. 

 

 The Refineries would not bother distributing less hygroscopic petrol from October to March if water in it was a good thing.

 

48 minutes ago, roottoot said:

@thomasaspin  I know you do, you are my hero. 

But you do not take the water from the fuel tank. 

 

 The Refineries would not bother distributing less hygroscopic petrol from October to March if water in it was a good thing.

 

 

This is conspiracy nut nonsense, water is not miscible in petrol, E10 has fractionally increased that solubility to about 0.05% but accumulated water from condensation will sit in the lowest part of the plastic fuel tank, over the lifetime of the car you might get a few spoonfuls but not enough to affect anything.

@sepulchrave  The OP posted about a 1/3 full tank. 

 

So really what is a conspiracy of the Winter Grade Petrol from mid October in Scotland and then November to March being less hygroscopic

Plenty have had to check petrol in tanks. Leave sitting in a jar and see the water in the bottom. 

 

Brighton might not have the same temp changes and condensation as elsewhere.  

 

Pump out some petrol and check, dead easy.

Pipe with a string feed through and a piece of cloth and pull it through and siphon from the bottom of the tank as many off us have done since we were children running our kart or mopeds. 

Edited 27 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

And the fuel that is drawn from the bottom of a full tank is exactly the same as the last drops of fuel drawn from a tank when you run out of fuel the pick up pipe does not move and the water does not float above the fuel.

The OP said he was running the car on fumes during the fuel shortage.

That means that he then bought what ever the filling stations were getting in as supplies were short.

 

https://www.argusmedia.com/news/2133338-europe-faces-summergrade-gasoline-overhang

https://www.spglobal.com/platts.en/market-insights/latest-news/oil/032812-uk-still-buying-winter-gasoline-as-european-refiners-switch-to-summer

 

 

 

If the OP has water in the fuel or not why would it be the cause for some discussion not to check?

 

It is like washing out a dirty hanky on here.     

Edited 28 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

This is conspiracy nut nonsense, water is  . . .

 

"I've seen people and I know some people that, through that energetical transformation, through the power of prayer, through the power of gratitude, they manage to turn the most toxic food or most polluted water, into the most healing water.  Because water reacts and scientists have proven that, that molecules in the water react to our emotions, to what is being said.”

Sporting Hero

Novaxx Djokeapric

 

7 hours ago, roottoot said:

The OP said he was running the car on fumes during the fuel shortage.

That means that he then bought what ever the filling stations were getting in as supplies were short.

 

https://www.argusmedia.com/news/2133338-europe-faces-summergrade-gasoline-overhang

https://www.spglobal.com/platts.en/market-insights/latest-news/oil/032812-uk-still-buying-winter-gasoline-as-european-refiners-switch-to-summer

 

 

 

If the OP has water in the fuel or not why would it be the cause for some discussion not to check?

 

It is like washing out a dirty hanky on here.     

So then if his car was running on fumes the best course of action is to check the fuel filter for any build up from the tank in it not worry about water in the fuel it’s nonsense what happens when it’s heavy raining and your air filter is pulling in water ? 

@thomasaspinWhen a Twincharger is running in moist air they run at about there best as many of us know. 

When they are running an original clean filter they run great.   Or even a performance intake and clean filter.

 

When they get a damp filter or actually wet and it is then left sitting in freezing weather they can run totally sh!tw or not even run.  

The Airfilter can freeze in the low temperature,

 

Some of us that have used Water Trap Inline fuel filters on our road vehicles / offroaders know how much water can come from the fuel tank.

Some will use K&N filters in conditions where there will be H20 kicking about as there is the perfect use for them, exposed, just as we might use a snorkel.

 

Some people actually learn as the years go on, it is a location location location thing.

................

 

On the fuel subject.  I once got crap Tesco Momentum 99 and that was at a Tesco outside Blackpool on the way to Santa Pod and running Stage 2.

I was out for a blast later that night near Preston with another member and the car was running crap i thought it was just the very hot weather. 

Then the next morning after filling on the motorway in the scorchio weather.

I had to switch the map and use 102 ron petrol i had in cans and add that a couple of times as the tank emptied.

 

 

Edited 28 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

@Kobayashi since you’re in the north west I have a fully working fuel pump you’re more than welcome to have, no harm in swapping it and seeing if it makes any difference before parting with money to buy a new one. 

3 hours ago, LGM said:

@Kobayashi since you’re in the north west I have a fully working fuel pump you’re more than welcome to have, no harm in swapping it and seeing if it makes any difference before parting with money to buy a new one. 

Cheers might need it, it was booked in today for rear wiper motor replacing so he didn't have time to start looking into misfire / juddering issue so we didn't do anything.. Have had to rebook next Friday so he can scan it with VCDS, and have a look at the spark plugs then Fuel Filter / Pump, I tried with Torque Pro and ODB2 and showed no errors at all but I know that doesn't look 'deep enough'. 

4 minutes ago, Kobayashi said:

I tried with Torque Pro and ODB2 and showed no errors at all but I know that doesn't look 'deep enough'. 

That can be the problem with some (many) scan tools but many users don't realise this and there can be stored codes that some think they have deleted (or wotever the correct term is).

 

Simply get some live data when you think its happening if you can.

 

HPFP on these are notorious for going bogus due to the third generation design, There's no on demand system on the HPFP, the pressure sits at 140 bar until its told to drop. That's why when mucking about with the fuel pump you need to careful with these, pop the fuse and wait until the pressure drops to 8 bar.

 

While the LPFP is supply only with no return so keeps the engine ticking over I wouldn't expect this to be your issue. Id be immediately looking at the HPFP and the fuelling side of things.

Edited 31 January, 20224 yr by Mickmartin

On 31/01/2022 at 11:27, Mickmartin said:

Simply get some live data when you think its happening if you can.

 

HPFP on these are notorious for going bogus due to the third generation design, There's no on demand system on the HPFP, the pressure sits at 140 bar until its told to drop. That's why when mucking about with the fuel pump you need to careful with these, pop the fuse and wait until the pressure drops to 8 bar.

 

While the LPFP is supply only with no return so keeps the engine ticking over I wouldn't expect this to be your issue. Id be immediately looking at the HPFP and the fuelling side of things.3

3/4 tank now and misFueling slight juddering problem is happening 8 or 9 mins into a 10 min journey. Then return journey same again but it's never a problem on start up, Still has reasonable boost for first 5 minutes! The local garage probably won't be able to get live data where it's booked on Friday but if he cant sort I've found the alternative tuning garage who did majority of work originally. Defo feels like fuel starvation, once it starts chugging then it won't go away until it's switched off.

Edited 2 February, 20224 yr by Kobayashi

If it has the same combined fuel sender/pick up unit as the Octavia, the type with the two push on pipe connectors on top then I would remove at and clean the guaze strainer and check the operation of the inversion cut off valve. A problem with either of those could cause your symptoms.

 

I had a brand new Cavalier GLi company car in 1987, it had massive fuel starvation when the tank reached 1/4 full and ran fine when refilled, the dealer replaced the tank and said that the lower part of the pick up pipe had broken off, didn't see it with my own eyes but its plausible.

 

Another thing to check is that the supply and return pipes have not been reversed on the sender unit, I made that mistake due to a poor B&W photo in the Haynes manual, the car ran but the pump had to suck very hard to overcome the one way valve and that caused air to be drawn into the fuel filter. The connections are colour coded but not polarised and there are no colours on the sender unit.

Plugs been in 2 years but less than 10k, garage scanned it with VCDS couldn't find any codes whatsoever or anything wrong at all. Basically they couldn't replicate the 'chugging' vibration at low power / low revs.  So all was done was change spark plugs  and fit rear wiper motor. Just have to monitor it for now... 

Finally forced a fault code out of it tonight on a 15 mile longer journey, so looks like it's cylinder 3, coil pack related P0353, same juddering with the brand new plugs, it's now booked in at different garage Friday but where it was originally tuned so they know the car anyway...