Item 20 here, I guess? LLLParts

There's a lot of difference between the two lengths you were told, can't you estimate which is right?

 

Rubbish diagram, unlike the reality I think?

Just now, Kharl said:

i replace the engine for a similar one, the donor car was a 200 SDI Fabia, it is a ASY engine

 

Oh right. Well I am having no luck finding that kind of tensioner on the ASY engine. It's probably just me.

7 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Rubbish diagram, unlike the reality I think?

 

Yeah, I think so too.

The no. 3

 

Edited 15 February, 20224 yr by Kharl

This is where I'm looking, Kharl...

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2002-225/9/903-903050/#24

Maybe item 24 in the link I posted then? 

 

Simultaneous posting Lee. 😁

Edited 15 February, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

1 hour ago, TMB said:

This is where I'm looking, Kharl...

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2002-225/9/903-903050/#24

i know, i uploaded my diagram becausee it is which show my actual engine, neither of the diagram in your links looks similar to mine, the diagram in the bottom part looks some similar but there is just a pulley, where is the tensioner body and the screw that bolts it? is not show in that diagram i would even say there is a failure in tha diagram, because the diagram shows how the bolt item 24 fix the pulley, and the current item is not fixed by the pulley but by the tensioner body, THEN the pulley is attached to the tensioner

^ Yeah, the diagram is flawed I think.

somebody (local) is telliing me to put a vibration damper pulley to the altenator (to replace the alternator pulley for one with vibration damper)  they explain to me that it absorbs the vibration caused when the belt moves backward due vibrations... i just did not understood that explanation...

7 hours ago, J.R. said:

Replace the whole tensioner and not just the bolt and above all replace the alternator pulley sprag clutch, it is this that is causing the problem.

 

Well that is not actually true, the problem is the acceleration/decellerations at idling speed and the inertia of the heavy alternator, without the one way clutch the belt will be snapping backwards and on the tensioner.

 

It sounds like either the bearing was not checked/replaced with the alternator or my money is that an alternator has been fitted which does not have the sprag clutch.

 

I'm surprised you have not complained of a chirping noise.

 

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

 

ok, thanks, i mised that reply.

 

I am not sure what pulley i have

what i found weird is that i never have had any chirp noise and according to this video: 

my tensioner had no significant vibration

5 hours ago, Kharl said:

The no. 3

Which is the alternator mounting bolt, not a tensioner bolt.

Interesting video, I had not appreciated the existence of and hence the difference of the 3rd decoupling type, if you look at the video at the end of the engine running you can see exactly what has been happening to your tensioner and earlier on there is a photo montage of many failed ones.

55 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Which is the alternator mounting bolt, not a tensioner bolt.

No, IT IS the tensioner bolt IN MY CHART, give it a check again,

35 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Interesting video, I had not appreciated the existence of and hence the difference of the 3rd decoupling type, if you look at the video at the end of the engine running you can see exactly what has been happening to your tensioner and earlier on there is a photo montage of many failed ones.

that is the weird part, my tensioner barely vibrate, it behave pretty similar like the one with the alternator damper, even that i broke the screw

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

Which is the alternator mounting bolt, not a tensioner bolt.

 

There are two 3s on the diagram. He circled the relevant one.

9 hours ago, TMB said:

 

There are two 3s on the diagram. He circled the relevant one.

Also @Kharl I went back and looked at the diagram again; there are actually 4 bolts (or set screws) numbered "3" in it. The only thing they may have in common is the recommended torque.

@Kharl your location shows as Caribbean but I cannot remember where you and the car actually are, or know where the car might have originally been from.  Could it be that different bolt/setscrews lengths or fixings are for different applications perhaps of accessories or for different market areas/regions of the world.  Looking at diagrams from Europe or UK ( and right hand drive) may not fully relate to another area/region of the world. 

 

The bolts/setscrews originally referred to were not only different lengths but also thickness. - 

19 hours ago, Kharl said:

N10610001   m8x90

N10514501   m10x135x45

It should be easy to check if it's a M8 or M10 thickness and that then gives the length required if the above information is correct.

 

As for how 18 foot pounds feels it depends on a lot of things, the fixings, conditions, positions, lever length, muscle power, with a correct length spanner with the setscrew in an awkward to get at location you might be surprised how near to the 18 foot pound you might have got - using additional leverage or mechanics' forearms are a different matter.

 

5 hours ago, KenONeill said:

there are actually 4 bolts (or set screws) numbered "3" in it.

 

So there are! I missed the other two.

8 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Also @Kharl I went back and looked at the diagram again; there are actually 4 bolts (or set screws) numbered "3" in it. The only thing they may have in common is the recommended torque.

alright i will take that into account

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

@Kharl your location shows as Caribbean but I cannot remember where you and the car actually are, or know where the car might have originally been from.  Could it be that different bolt/setscrews lengths or fixings are for different applications perhaps of accessories or for different market areas/regions of the world.  Looking at diagrams from Europe or UK ( and right hand drive) may not fully relate to another area/region of the world. 

 

The bolts/setscrews originally referred to were not only different lengths but also thickness. - 

It should be easy to check if it's a M8 or M10 thickness and that then gives the length required if the above information is correct.

 

As for how 18 foot pounds feels it depends on a lot of things, the fixings, conditions, positions, lever length, muscle power, with a correct length spanner with the setscrew in an awkward to get at location you might be surprised how near to the 18 foot pound you might have got - using additional leverage or mechanics' forearms are a different matter.

 

will take that in account too and pay special care

i arrive to my home)i have two houses, one where i live due my job and the other, the main house )my child house, there is where i have all my tools and it is in the Capital of the country so i have access to more stores...

 

I drove 150km again on battery )the Teskoda they call it xD

and all good, i was able to pull out the Alternator... and there it is, just a plain pulley, it was difficult to remove due the AC hoooses so i will try to get the best quality OAD pulley.

 

any recomendation or anything to take into account?

 

 

id like to get a INA pulley but it is hard to find here, i have Vicka available, is it good?

1 hour ago, Kharl said:

id like to get a INA pulley but it is hard to find here, i have Vicka available, is it good?

 

Jesus Kharl, ANYTHING is better than the WRONG pulley!

1 minute ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Jesus Kharl, ANYTHING is better than the WRONG pulley!

🤣🤣🤣

I have a cuestion what is the rotation of the alternator clock wise or counterclockwise?