Reviving this old thread, @Bushlake I know you haven’t been active in a while, but if you are still driving the car, can you share is everything alright with the diff since the rebuild? I am about to the the same on mine and am wondering should I rebuild it or look for a second hand one.

2015 Scout TDi CR 4x4 – been told I need a 'new' rear diff …is OCQ525010S the part number please?

35 minutes ago, captain uncertain said:

2015 Scout TDi CR 4x4 – been told I need a 'new' rear diff …is OCQ525010S the part number please?

 

You don't want to see the price of it - sorry I don't have the part number, because I declined to pay 4000 euros.

 

It's just a roller bearing which needs to be replaced and internal gaps to be adjusted according to specifications. A shop working on manual transmissions and differentials should be able to do the job for you. When they open the diff they will see the part number of the worn out bearing which in 90% of the cases is "LM 503349/QCL7C" according to my research in VW and Audi forums. It seems to be known issue...

 

I'm trying to find a shop near me which can do the replacement for mine since I have the issue as well.

Edited 5 June, 20232 yr by fr1nklyn

 

Great – thank you. Very useful. I've been quoted about £400 to service the rear diff on my 2015 Scout (which replaces all the bearings that can be replaced). They did explain that *if* the bearing that is broken isn't replaceable then it'll £1500 (rather than £400) for a new unit (!) but reading your post I'm hoping the knackered parts are replaceable. The only extra is getting 'my' garage to do the remove/refit as the diff people are booked 'til August if I wanted/needed them to remove/refit.

£1500 for a new unit is not plausible.

@captain uncertain I’m not sure are there irreplaceable bearings - I think there was a post in drive2.ru showing that each bearing has a part number. I will try to find that thread.

 

@J.R. If I recall correctly dealer said that diff unit isn’t sold separately and needs to be bought together with the Haldex 😕 

In either case, it’s most likely this bearing+new diff oil. And it’s not worth the price of a new unit.

I just need to find who to replace it as the  nearest place which does this is 500km from me..

Thank you, really useful information.

Bumping this post – as keen to get some confirmation. My VIN is TMBMJ7NE9F0112414 and I've been told I need a 0BR525010Q rear diff unit. Yes?

 

Ebay has a new one in China for about £1200, there might be (UK) 'breakers yard' units for £3-600 (but not sure of their condition) and Skoda dealer quoted me £5000  :O)   As I mentioned earlier gearbox people will refurb mine for perhaps £380 (but also a three week turnaround). I was thinking of getting the new eBay one then it can be a 'simple' swap the old one for the new one (and sell the old one as spares/repairs). Anyone have experience/thoughts on this please? Thanks.

has anyone got a link to the procedure to drop the diff unit  ?  or the UK bearing part numbers ? or someone near essex that can do it please

 

Dellbert, you messaged me asking how I was getting on, for benefit of anyone else…

 

Not sorted yet. Options

 

1. Get existing diff out, send to rebuild people (who will take three weeks approx) to fix (if they can about £380, £1500 if they can't, and need to cannibalise another diff) …plus removing/fitting costs

2. Get diff out and have 'new' unit fitted (currently trying to confirm unit on eBay from China is legit.) £1200 for unit (plus duty/vat??) and plus removing/fitting costs

3. Get diff out and have 'breakers yard' unit fitted (£400-750 but can I be sure it's from the mileage/car they say – what guarantee?) – plus removing/fitting costs.

4. New unit from Skoda dealer £5,084 – plus removing/fitting costs  :O)

5. Keep driving it until it breaks, then one of the above

6. Just sit and cry

 

I'm thinking 2 as that way I can have the car for August (garages are massively booked) …and refurb loses August driving!

 

I have garage booked for July 25th (!) to get diff out (and looking to sort it so 'new' diff can go straight in) – time enough to source a 'new' diff I can trust/afford.

I've been told (and this is my non-tech recollection) that exhaust has to come off and rear sub-frame dropped as the diff bolts in from the top!

It seems they do put cars together with little thought for later access! Guess you could cut in from above – joke!!

 

I have done some exploratory probing but from on my back, the diff does bolt in from the top (upper bolts) but if the bolts can be removed from above it should slide forward and out.

 

I could not see or feel if there were access holes with plugs and the space under my boot vario floor is too full of tightly packed breakdown & survival stuff for me to dig it out and see.

 

If you can get your car up on a ramp you should be able to see if it will come out, I reckon there is space if the bolts can be accessed and removed

20 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I have done some exploratory probing but from on my back, the diff does bolt in from the top (upper bolts) but if the bolts can be removed from above it should slide forward and out.

 

I could not see or feel if there were access holes with plugs and the space under my boot vario floor is too full of tightly packed breakdown & survival stuff for me to dig it out and see.

 

If you can get your car up on a ramp you should be able to see if it will come out, I reckon there is space if the bolts can be accessed and removed

dont think the bolts are accesable from the top

They are accessible, you can get a spanner on them, whether you could apply enough force to loosen them is another matter, under a ramp maybe, on your back I doubt it.

 

And then is there sufficient space to remove them from above or lift them enough to release the threads? The latterv possibly, the former no.

 

Thats why I am hoping there are some access holes or the bolt positions are such that making some is possible.

 

I would really appreciate it of someone with a clear boot could lift up their carpet and look for me.

31 minutes ago, J.R. said:

They are accessible, you can get a spanner on them, whether you could apply enough force to loosen them is another matter, under a ramp maybe, on your back I doubt it.

 

And then is there sufficient space to remove them from above or lift them enough to release the threads? The latterv possibly, the former no.

 

Thats why I am hoping there are some access holes or the bolt positions are such that making some is possible.

 

I would really appreciate it of someone with a clear boot could lift up their carpet and look for me.

in answer to your question on a 2015/16  there are no access holes  i have a video proving this but too large to load on here

Extra update from me. Couple of pics. I'm likely going to buy a 'new' unit from China/eBay – anyone else done that? Appreciate breakers unit is an option but difference in price makes me think a new unit better than a XX,000 miles one. And I want the car back on the road asap – save time if new one replaces old unit in one 'garage session' rather than 'send away for refurb'. Opinions welcome (particularly of people getting OEM stuff from faraway). And, best place to get the 'coupling' (see picture) that needs replacing too. Thanks.

Couplings are available from many sources at wildly varying prices, yours looks OK, I mistakenly thought mine had seperated when I saw the split which shows well in your photo, the new one is exactly the same, try pulling the outer ring backwards and forwards, if there is only a small movement for a lot of force your coupling is fine.

 

How did you find the Chinese diff unit and do you know if it is local manufacture? The assembly lines there may well use the same major powertrain components like engines, transmission & diffs from the European manufacturer but dont put the stupid mark ups on them that VAG do in Europe.

 

It's crazy when you get the same component delivered half way around the world for 1/4 of the price.

 

Found the rear diff just searching eBay – they have been efficient in requesting VIN and confirming the correct part. I've no idea if it's local manufacture or not – the pictures clearly show 'made in Austria' on the unit but they also say "To avoid customs problems, we might have to remove the logo on parts." …it's tricky to know who is who and what is what these days. Guess I take a punt – benefit of the doubt.  As for the coupler – garage man shunted it this way and that and told me it needed replacing – trust him and makes sense to get it sorted when the back of the car is being dismantled/repaired. Thank you for you thoughts.

I think you might get a nasty surprise when it is landed and could be asked to pay 20% VAT on the UK price, that could be why they intend removing the markings.

 

I don't want to put you off as I would really like to see how it works out for you, I could take the same route myself.

 

I believe Ebay have to take care of the import duties etc and you in turn pay them, its usually shown under the delivery cost so you should be OK unless a customs official thinks the value is significantly higher.

 

I'll not be pleased if I have to pay 20% of the £5,084 Skoda dealer price!  :OP
Don't mind paying 20% of the amount I pay for the item (I'm sure the government will take my money and spend it wisely!)

 

I'll let you know!  

we used to sell Chinese manufactured scooters  ,the sell in grades  1 to 5  . no 1 is only sold to  the likes of Honda Peugot etc  numbers 2 downwards are available to ther dealers the quality variation is alarming  with 2 being ok to 5 being scrap . obviously the prices reflect this though .

 

On 24/06/2023 at 16:53, Dellbert said:

in answer to your question on a 2015/16  there are no access holes  i have a video proving this but too large to load on here

 

Update on access holes   they are drilled through one skin from underneath you can see them once the rear subrame is out 

 

see file:///C:/Users/Del/Downloads/D3E80473F31-Propshaft_and_rear_final_drive.pdf  

 

page 31 onwards  

 

but no markings inside the load area floor that i can see 

 

and getting the diff out on its own doesnt look fun to me 

Thanks Dilbert I will investigate further.

 

Diff assemblys are very heavy these days, a Sierra diff was more than twice the weight of a traditional Ford live axle unit going back to the 105E days, the latter easy to remove on your back, the former really needing lifting support.

 

The combined Haldex unit will be really heavy and I'd much rather not add the weight of the subframe to it as I will be working on my back.

 

Also after removing the front crossmember to remove the gearbox despite marking the location bolts & washers with spray paint before removal the car crabbed afterwards & I could not realign it with my home made laser set up without springing it using a 3 tonne ratchet between it and the rear crossmember.

 

Leaving the crossmember in situ avoids the chance of rear end steering.

58 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Thanks Dilbert I will investigate further.

 

Diff assemblys are very heavy these days, a Sierra diff was more than twice the weight of a traditional Ford live axle unit going back to the 105E days, the latter easy to remove on your back, the former really needing lifting support.

 

The combined Haldex unit will be really heavy and I'd much rather not add the weight of the subframe to it as I will be working on my back.

 

Also after removing the front crossmember to remove the gearbox despite marking the location bolts & washers with spray paint before removal the car crabbed afterwards & I could not realign it with my home made laser set up without springing it using a 3 tonne ratchet between it and the rear crossmember.

 

Leaving the crossmember in situ avoids the chance of rear end steering.

i would take the lot down especially if no ramp  undo everything drop car to floor  lift shell from rear subframe  .As for rear steering a simple retrack should suffice (on the rear ) also gives easy access to any bushes for replacement  .. Good luck

 

mines out  diff strip tomorrow  ..

I'm not even sure that the rear tracking (toe in angle) is adjustable on the rear, what happens is the axle becomes misaligned and is not at 90° to the vehicle centre line (thrust angle) and the same can happen at the front, when its the rear its a very serious matter as one wheel will be toeing out making for snap oversteer.

 

When its the front you just have to apply some steering input to maintain a straight trajectory.

 

I made up a measuring fixture using a laser spirit level set to the wheel rims and measuring the distance to the B post aimed from all 4 wheels, the rear axle was very slightly out, the front by a long way, I could not apply enough force to the rear subframe retaining bolts to loosen them so had to align the front axle to the rear rather than both to the vehicle.

 

Now I have a decent battery impact wrench they might loosen, they wouldn't for my air one.

 

I like the idea of raising the shell from the subframe, thankks for the suggestion, the only drawback would be the vehicle would have to remain in place or sit on dollys, I think it will make the whole job easier though, some brake bleeding being the only drawback but as long as very little fluid is lost then the ABS block wont need purging.

1 hour ago, Dellbert said:

see file:///C:/Users/Del/Downloads/D3E80473F31-Propshaft_and_rear_final_drive.pdf  

That is not enabled as a link, it looks like a file on your computer.