22 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I'm not angry, not even when you said I must be bind (sic) or have eyesight issue.

 

I would be interested in your old unit as is if you don't want to split it and experiment with bearing replacement, setting up the preload will involve shimming or as in the case of the Australian Youtuber reducing the width of the spacer on a surface grinder.

 

I have been rebuilding diffs (mainly Ford) for over 40 years and would do yours to replace mine to avoid downtime just as you are doing.

 

I'm kicking myself that I didn't buy one for £200 that had been sitting unsold on ebay for months but my diff noise has not got any worse in the intervening 30K miles or maybe my hearing has.

40 years uff very long time .. I want to learn stuff from VW AG want be mechanic but am old now 41 haha.

How much would you buy it from me? But I am not in Australia but UK

But problem is that if I buy that one from eBay and it will be bad? Or even worse I would be fcked..And I don't think that I will be able to even strip it down myself .. When I saw video jeeezus it big job ..

I already purchased bearing for £20 or I will give some mechanic to do it but I really don't want to spend loads of money .. Mechanics are expensive today so I want learn to do it myself 

But am not confident ..

 

 

 

I'm in France, closer than Australia but in many ways might as well be as far away, up till a year ago I would frequently visit but have now sold my property there.

 

Delivery charges within the UK are reasonable but to get it to France would be prohibitive nowadays.

 

I'm dead chuffed to finally have a reference for the bearing though, how did you find the details?

Having looked at the video once again I reckon that to replace only the smaller output shaft bearing there is a possibility that it can be done in situ which would be a massive time and grief saver.

 

I need to jack my car up and have a good look to see if there is clearance, if you are on good terms with your mécano then suggest it to him and ask him to have a look on the lift.

 

It would avoid removing so many difficult and heavy components, drifting out the bearing and refitting the new one from underneath would be no problem.

 

The basic idea (and thats all it is at present) is to remove the driveshafts and anti-roll bar, remove one of the diff mounting bolts from above which will probably involve cutting an access hole, removing the side casing, crown wheel assembly then drifting out the old bearing, well drifting the outer race inwards actually taking care not to damage the oil seal.

 

The latter stages after removing the mounting bolt would be a piece of p155 if there is access, you can see how easy it was on the bench.

 

If it is a standard bearing then the preload will already be set, not removing the pinion means the preload and fore and aft position of that will remain undisturbed.

 

I think this might be a goer!!!!!

Edited 6 July, 20232 yr by J.R.

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

I'm in France, closer than Australia but in many ways might as well be as far away, up till a year ago I would frequently visit but have now sold my property there.

 

Delivery charges within the UK are reasonable but to get it to France would be prohibitive nowadays.

 

I'm dead chuffed to finally have a reference for the bearing though, how did you find the details?

What details ?

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Having looked at the video once again I reckon that to replace only the smaller output shaft bearing there is a possibility that it can be done in situ which would be a massive time and grief saver.

 

I need to jack my car up and have a good look to see if there is clearance, if you are on good terms with your mécano then suggest it to him and ask him to have a look on the lift.

 

It would avoid removing so many difficult and heavy components, drifting out the bearing and refitting the new one from underneath would be no problem.

 

The basic idea (and thats all it is at present) is to remove the driveshafts and anti-roll bar, remove one of the diff mounting bolts from above which will probably involve cutting an access hole, removing the side casing, crown wheel assembly then drifting out the old bearing, well drifting the outer race inwards actually taking care not to damage the oil seal.

 

The latter stages after removing the mounting bolt would be a piece of p155 if there is access, you can see how easy it was on the bench.

 

If it is a standard bearing then the preload will already be set, not removing the pinion means the preload and fore and aft position of that will remain undisturbed.

 

I think this might be a goer!!!!!

I will probably give it to local mechanic to replace or rebuild 

17 minutes ago, Username_Login said:

What details ?

How did you find the dimensions of the bearing?

 

Its what I have been trying to find for a very long time, if I had the old bearing in my hand it would be easy for me to find the reference but with the dimensions I can order it in advance if you are confident of them, thats why I asked where you found the details/dimensions/reference number.

20 minutes ago, Username_Login said:

I will probably give it to local mechanic to replace or rebuild 

Yes but the labour charge will be but a tiny fraction if he is able to do it in situ, with his ramp it will be even easier.

 

Also many less things to be disturbed and removed which might cause problems or break like the exhaust, propshaft centre bearing, drive coupling, engine mounts, subframe mounts, brake pipes etc etc.

Edited 6 July, 20232 yr by J.R.

22 minutes ago, J.R. said:

How did you find the dimensions of the bearing?

 

Its what I have been trying to find for a very long time, if I had the old bearing in my hand it would be easy for me to find the reference but with the dimensions I can order it in advance if you are confident of them, thats why I asked where you found the details/dimensions/reference number.

Googled and it was here 

It took me couple of minutes 

 

 

 

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/s3-whine-from-haldex-rear-diff.276200/

 

23 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Yes but the labour charge will be but a tiny fraction if he is able to do it in situ, with his ramp it will be even easier.

 

Also many less things to be disturbed and removed which might cause problems or break like the exhaust, propshaft centre bearing, drive coupling, engine mounts, subframe mounts, brake pipes etc etc.

Am not mechanic I only do basic things on my car ... But surely I want to know everything .. But firstly I need to buy bicycle 🚲 haha in case if I mess up and car will not be usable .. I had my Audi A3 8V sportback tdi 2.0 quattrro since 2019 it had 45k miles and now it has 104k 😁😅

Next I am going to replace water pump for first time 

15 hours ago, J.R. said:

How did you find the dimensions of the bearing?

 

Its what I have been trying to find for a very long time, if I had the old bearing in my hand it would be easy for me to find the reference but with the dimensions I can order it in advance if you are confident of them, thats why I asked where you found the details/dimensions/reference number.

Watch the ausie video and read the comments its on there 

15 hours ago, J.R. said:

Yes but the labour charge will be but a tiny fraction if he is able to do it in situ, with his ramp it will be even easier.

 

Also many less things to be disturbed and removed which might cause problems or break like the exhaust, propshaft centre bearing, drive coupling, engine mounts, subframe mounts, brake pipes etc etc.

on a ramp properly it should be out in less than 2 hours enabling a proper examination of the diff and the cross member (suprisingly limited paint protection on it ) on the floor i would think no more than 2,5 hrs (on the floor may be easier than on a ramp   , no brakepipe seperation  no drilling holes .

 

i would sugest

loosen wheels  loosen driveshaft inner couplings

 

remove rear exhust section support front section  disconnect propshaft

 

remove wheels  remove calipers (pipes still attached ) unclip pipe from subframe  secure calipers (cable ties  ) to lower arm bloted to cradle (2 bolts each side (18 mm ?)

 

under cradle mountings  (4 in the sides and 4 int the body )

 

lower cradle  then unbolt the diff and remove , use new mulispline bolts into the diff as the get rusty in the heads .

 

complete remoal allows a proper clean inside the diff and haldex  so no moe swarf  .

 

aparently full rebuild kits are availble in Czech   alegidley ...

Hey guyyz received bearing 

But I was surprised it is so small ?? Is it right size ? 🤷‍♂️ 

 

Hey guys an update from my side, I picked my car after the diff bearing was changed, new diff and haldex oils, new drive shaft coupling as well and the noise is gone! 🥳

 

That coupling made the bill a bit more than I expected but I know from the forum that it’s a common think to fail on these cars.

 

I need to do an alignment and then I will do some more miles and step it hard, but so far there is no noise till 90kmph.

Before the rebuild, the noise was appearing after 30-40kmph.

I want to do alignment before driving it with 130-150.

 

The only think I’m a bit concerned is a low noise intermittently when I go over bumps, but could be in my head.. I don’t trust the car yet and drove from the local garage with windows closed and no music in order to listen for anything wrong.. 🤣

2 hours ago, fr1nklyn said:

Hey guys an update from my side, I picked my car after the diff bearing was changed, new diff and haldex oils, new drive shaft coupling as well and the noise is gone! 🥳

 

That coupling made the bill a bit more than I expected but I know from the forum that it’s a common think to fail on these cars.

 

I need to do an alignment and then I will do some more miles and step it hard, but so far there is no noise till 90kmph.

Before the rebuild, the noise was appearing after 30-40kmph.

I want to do alignment before driving it with 130-150.

 

The only think I’m a bit concerned is a low noise intermittently when I go over bumps, but could be in my head.. I don’t trust the car yet and drove from the local garage with windows closed and no music in order to listen for anything wrong.. 🤣

What u mean  drive shaft coupling ? 

 

What did they rebuild on your diff ? bearing only one ? 

1 minute ago, Username_Login said:

What u mean  drive shaft coupling ? 

 

What did they rebuild on your diff ? bearing only one ? 

 

Yes, I think it's called drive shaft coupling. And in the diff only that roller bearing I wrote about earlier.

I did MOT(was expired till the car was in the garage) and also alignment on a Hutson machine. Both sides on the rear were unaligned as expected.

 

Something isn't right unfortunately.. 😞 Intermittently car feels unstable and shakes too much inside while cornering on uneven roads. I've been moved to the left and right couple of times like I'm in a boat.. 

 

It happened 2-3 times while driving. The suspension hasn't been stiffer before I left it for repair, but I feel it much more unstable now.. Or I have driven my wife's Hyundai i30 too much in the last couple of weeks 🙃

 

I'm now unsure should I take a trip with the car or not.. 😞  It can't be checked during the weekend.

1 hour ago, fr1nklyn said:

 

Yes, I think it's called drive shaft coupling. And in the diff only that roller bearing I wrote about earlier.

If u had drive shafts disassembled you then talking about driveshaft elbow joints and its grease .. ?  Both sides of drive shafts are covered with bellow rubber or plastic  where joints inside has enormous grease in it to keep joints lubricated forever.. 

 

So that roller bearing which I showed on picture? but diff has another one on other side bigger that is usually fine ? 

1 hour ago, fr1nklyn said:

I did MOT(was expired till the car was in the garage) and also alignment on a Hutson machine. Both sides on the rear were unaligned as expected.

 

Something isn't right unfortunately.. 😞 Intermittently car feels unstable and shakes too much inside while cornering on uneven roads. I've been moved to the left and right couple of times like I'm in a boat.. 

 

It happened 2-3 times while driving. The suspension hasn't been stiffer before I left it for repair, but I feel it much more unstable now.. Or I have driven my wife's Hyundai i30 too much in the last couple of weeks 🙃

 

I'm now unsure should I take a trip with the car or not.. 😞  It can't be checked during the weekend.

Maybe they didn't fix the whole diff unit properly and it is moving ?  But if you feel like you wobbling like snake when driving fast you need to turn off DSR  Driver Steering Recommendation  in VCDS 

Your steering wheel is going against you trying to correct  while you don't want .. 

12 minutes ago, Username_Login said:

If u had drive shafts disassembled you then talking about driveshaft elbow joints and its grease .. ?  Both sides of drive shafts are covered with bellow rubber or plastic  where joints inside has enormous grease in it to keep joints lubricated forever.. 

 

So that roller bearing which I showed on picture? but diff has another one on other side bigger that is usually fine ? 

 

It says “rear rubber shaft coupling” on the bill and it’s €265..

 

5 minutes ago, Username_Login said:

Maybe they didn't fix the whole diff unit properly and it is moving ?  But if you feel like you wobbling like snake when driving fast you need to turn off DSR  Driver Steering Recommendation  in VCDS 

Your steering wheel is going against you trying to correct  while you don't want .. 

I didn’t know about this option, thanks. I will check it out. 

Btw it says that DSR is part of the ESP feature, so maybe if I disable the ESP it will also disable the DSR?

 

I thought that my shocks/springs may need replacement as I’m still driving with the factory ones on 95k miles. But I would notice this before the repair.. I will get out to drive it again. 😔

40 minutes ago, fr1nklyn said:

 

It says “rear rubber shaft coupling” on the bill and it’s €265..

 

I didn’t know about this option, thanks. I will check it out. 

That means then this unit been replaced  it cost almost £100 so maybe they didn't rip you off they charged themselves £150 for work 

37 minutes ago, fr1nklyn said:

Btw it says that DSR is part of the ESP feature, so maybe if I disable the ESP it will also disable the DSR?

 

I thought that my shocks/springs may need replacement as I’m still driving with the factory ones on 95k miles. But I would notice this before the repair.. I will get out to drive it again. 😔

No that won't help  and it's ESC  Electronic Stabilization Control  that is just for slipping it automatically rearrange your steering to prevent slipping  on quattrro is perfect .. When I fly through the water puddle it little bit swimming and then it corrects me automatically love it

 

This Driving recommendation is like it uses brakes automatically and independently for quattrro when you driving fast in bends or very sharp bends it will electronically use rear brakes even without you touching brake pedal but very lightly .. And so it makes you wobbly because only one brake either left 👈 or right 👉 is used so it will make you like snake .. Turn it off and you will start loving your car again 

 

40 minutes ago, Username_Login said:

No that won't help  and it's ESC  Electronic Stabilization Control  that is just for slipping it automatically rearrange your steering to prevent slipping  on quattrro is perfect .. When I fly through the water puddle it little bit swimming and then it corrects me automatically love it

 

This Driving recommendation is like it uses brakes automatically and independently for quattrro when you driving fast in bends or very sharp bends it will electronically use rear brakes even without you touching brake pedal but very lightly .. And so it makes you wobbly because only one brake either left 👈 or right 👉 is used so it will make you like snake .. Turn it off and you will start loving your car again 

 

Sorry not directly electronically (electronic parking brake are ONLY for parking when you press the button or you open door while in driving mode.)  but hydraulically but electronically controlling ABS pump module and then sends pressure with brake fluid to the brakes independently    

4 hours ago, fr1nklyn said:

I did MOT(was expired till the car was in the garage) and also alignment on a Hutson machine. Both sides on the rear were unaligned as expected.

 

Something isn't right unfortunately.. 😞 Intermittently car feels unstable and shakes too much inside while cornering on uneven roads. I've been moved to the left and right couple of times like I'm in a boat.. 

 

It happened 2-3 times while driving. The suspension hasn't been stiffer before I left it for repair, but I feel it much more unstable now.. Or I have driven my wife's Hyundai i30 too much in the last couple of weeks 🙃

 

I'm now unsure should I take a trip with the car or not.. 😞  It can't be checked during the weekend.

 

 

Was it like it when you picked it up or after a few miles ?

 

Did they drop the whole rear cradle like i did  (see my pics )?

 

Are the driveshaft inner joints tight  ?

 

What exactly was done to the diff (which bearings and how many ) ?

 

Is there oil in it  (diff and haldex ) ?

I looked closely at mine today to see if the diff side cover can be removed in situ, it will be very tight if it does come out and access to the upper bolts is very restricted, I have decided that its better for me to remove the whole cradle as others have said.

 

As can be seen by Fr1nklyns experience the more a garage has to remove to do a job the greater the chance of them getting something wrong.

 

That goes for us DIY'ers as well but its easier, for me at least, to cope with my failings than to pay to find those of others and all the grief and denial that follows.