Hi Experts , 

Any images or  specific steps to de pin relay switch connector please. I understand wire  small strips & their locking mechanism and will get necessary tools as well.

Generic videos to different connector are available on u tube but  could not find specific to this connector.

 

 

Thanks  

Regards 

raky

I used an old slightly modified Kirby grip to sort some out before. This will give an idea of what's involved.

https://youtu.be/5rlXZUvhEsQ

Edited 6 May, 20224 yr by PD75

Thanks @PD75, I have bought this from ebay   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353805667719 and did some experiment with old lying ( 3-4 junk sensors at home  from past few years all ch****e junk and even recently bought junk used sensor from ebay) , I had success removing few wires in 1 sensor using the above tool  but could not remove any wire for 2nd sensor this was and experiment to understand locking mechanism  I think right and storn tools are needed, ur video gave me some confidence as guy is confirming that vw cars connectors can be removed with these tools.   Even though I think I had released the lock but connector wouldn't come out inspite of applying lot of force. 

I am looking info specific to radiator fan relay connector and hopefully will give a try if it works . I have order brand new original connector from skoda-parts

Not many car electricians available to do these kind of job , I have 4 wires and my wires are very thick and strong possible good knowledge of locking mechanism& proper tool  would be need for safe connector change, will try to buy recommended tools let see. 

 

Cheers 

Hi Guys , After few minutes of wiggling had a success using just a smaller screw driver , had latch on both the pins of connectors , the pins and connectors looks as attached , the latching mechanism also can be seen in the inside of connector (1J0906444).

 

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1j0906234-flat-contact-housing-4-pin-10300.html

 

Fan module bought from ebay was useless , ordered new part hope it reaches soon original part is £200+ very expensive did not understand why it so expensive just few coils inside. 

 

I think it is doable as diy , again cannot blame mechanic as it jammed badly.  bigger pins have hole where perturbed part of connector sits inside it which needs to be lifted and moved away.

 Smaller  had also similar lock but not inside any hole. The pink cap comes easily did not had any latch or lock on it. Hope it helps somebody.

Cheers 

 

Edited 10 May, 20224 yr by raky

Hi Experts,

Can somebody suggest fault finding approach as FAN is not running mechanic told me that fan module is faulty , I have ordered new one from Czech Republic  meantime bought used from ebay and got fitted no change. I have checked AC is also not working as well ,  no cold air. ( never used AC, never had gas filled ).

 

I have connected   2 wires of radiator switch and fan started so it means fan is healthy. In my skoda fabia mk1 I have only 1 fan so it seems AC is broken which is causing FAN not to run or FAN is stoping AC not to work.

 

Any thoughts how to fix Fan, temperature in gauge is not going beyond 90 degree  to me it seems as expected as I don't drive car more than few miles , when I drove car on motorway for just 30 miles at speed of 40m/h I was driving 10 miles and then taking break of 20 minutes , but I have seen coolant boiling when I drove few miles speed of @70 ph and even found that coolant tank was leaking, which has been replaced /flushed old coolant & added new coolant as well.

 

So I understand the fan itself is fine  but does not get trigger to start.  I have seen some AC related error codes on mechanic diagnostics but did not noted them. 

 

I had disconnected the ECT connection as well (as advised by experts in the group ) when car was running no effect on FAN. To me all fuses on top of battery looks fine.

 

Any thoughts please  how to test those FAN control module in car or outside car I have spare battery which probably can provide 12v at least and have multimeter as well .  

Bigger connector have 4 pins, not sure where we should check mother or father pins of fan module .  As I understand FAN could be broken because of  listed reason 1. faulty ECT 2. Faulty Fan switch 3. Fault Fan Control module 4. faulty Thermostat.  5 Broken FAN 6 faulty writing 7 Fuse issue 

Out of these few items have been tested and working fine  - Fan is not broken, fuse seems fine, fan switch was not broken but still changed it,  fan control module was suspect for temporary  but bought used one from eBay and changed it ( no effect) ordered new will change.

 

In case after changing fan control module if nothing works then wht any idea please ?  Also before blaming ebay seller I want to test the module , any steps would be highly appreciated.

 

 

Much appreciated ur Time to read .

 

Thanks

Kind Regards

raky 

 

 

  

8 minutes ago, raky said:

I have connected   2 wires of radiator switch

Which two, there are three, no?

 

To test low speed of fan, you need to connect the thermoswitch connector loom contact that the brown wire goes to (pin 1) with the one that the brown/blue wire goes to (pin 2).

To test full speed you first need to switch on the ignition, then connect the brown (1) to the brown/green (pin 3).

 

Picture here:

 

 

Most likely the low speed doesn't work, but test both.

 

You have a picture of a wrong type of module at the top of your pictures, why?

 

2 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

You have a picture of a wrong type of module at the top of your pictures, why?

 

Sorry Pete this is not from my module , these are from net , just wanted to show pins. 

Thanks 

Regards 

raky

 

3 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Which two, there are three, no?

 

To test low speed of fan, you need to connect the thermoswitch connector loom contact that the brown wire goes to (pin 1) with the one that the brown/blue wire goes to (pin 2).

To test full speed you first need to switch on the ignition, then connect the brown (1) to the brown/green (pin 3).

 

Picture here:

 

 

Most likely the low speed doesn't work, but test both.

 

Much apprecaited Pete , u r saviour as always, I was delighted when it worked for just combination , but will do check as adviced again.

 

Pete tested both , low speed works withOUT ANY key but unfortunately High speed DOES NOT work after ignition on , BUT One thing I have notice that there was clicks on FAN module when I was wiggling th connected wire for high speed any idea wht does it implies please, is it sure the relay switch was trying to do its job but could not or anything else. Hope for ur guidance please .

 

"

To test full speed you first need to switch on the ignition, then connect the brown (1) to the brown/green (pin 3).

"

Note : Wire was connected first than ignition was kept on   does it matter please , do u want me to repeat the test again ?

 

Thanks

Kind Regards

raky 

 

Thanks 

Kind Regards 

raky

 

Edited 11 May, 20224 yr by raky
Result updated- wire connected first than ignition on

The relay clicking means that the signal from the thermoswitch is getting through, energising the relay coil correctly.

 

The lack of full speed action from the fan could be due to the strip fuse being cracked/broken/blown, or the relay inside the fan module having burnt-out contacts, or one of the wires involved (from strip fuse to fan module, or fan module to fan) being broken. 

 

Can you post a photo of your battery fuse panel?

 

 

 

9 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

The relay clicking means that the signal from the thermoswitch is getting through, energising the relay coil correctly.

 

The lack of full speed action from the fan could be due to the strip fuse being cracked/broken/blown, or the relay inside the fan module having burnt-out contacts, or one of the wires involved (from strip fuse to fan module, or fan module to fan) being broken. 

 

Can you post a photo of your battery fuse panel?

 

 

 

Oh ok Thanks Pete, let me test strip fuses on top battery with multimeter visibly all looked fine , again I have put the ignition on and short-circuited still one click but no fan action . I saw there was wire which was connecting to FAN near the radiator switch does that could be any issue please ?, I shall update you soon . 

 

 

cheers 

 

 

 

 

This is how the wiring looks (except you must ignore "Smaller rad fan" V35 if you don't have it)

 

 

T3i is the three-way, inline connector pair near the bottom radiator hose and thermoswitch.

 

 

 

Edited 11 May, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

Really apprecaite Pete for ur time , I have kept mutilmeter on 200 ohms and measured one end of strip with another end ( before screws) saw some had 2.3 ohms range which was weird they looked intact not broken but some had value 1 or -1 but some had 2.3 ohms range , If I connect both screws than values are different because left side are serially connected and so are right side all screws.

 

Please find attached photos last time it was when my abs was not working mehcnic found one fuse was broken which was visibly very clearly.

 

Please find photos for ur info .

Any thoughts please

 

 

Cheers

raky 

 

Sorry Pete do I need to disconnect the battery before testing please??

 

cheers

Fuses all look fine (strip fuse no.3 is the high speed fan fuse on your car, it's rated at 40 Amps).

When do you expect delivery of a replacement fan module?

Disconnecting battery negative is not a bad idea when testing wire continuity from point to point. 

 

4 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Fuses all look fine (strip fuse no.3 is the high speed fan fuse on your car, it's rated at 40 Amps).

When do you expect delivery of a replacement fan module?

Disconnecting battery negative is not a bad idea when testing wire continuity from point to point. 

 

Thanks Pete number  3 from right to left or left to right please ? Online status of fedex shows that it is in Germany at present hope to reach by Monday , 

Possibly I shall disconnect battery and remove one by one all fuses and physically see if all connected or cracks alternatively will change all not expensive.

 

I shall keep u posted , do u still reckon that fan control module may be faulty... 

 

I can check voltage on each pins if needed please any thoughts.

 

 I shall check temperature of car with torque pro oBD2 app  after keeping it idling for few minutes.  

 

cheers 

 

 

Sorry Pete , I have noticed that during cold start of car the coolant pump start circulating  coolant  I can see the coolant falling in coolant tank, is it normal behaviour as I understand  until car  temperature reaches around 98degree , thermostat would not open and there would be no circulation of coolant, do u think my thermostat me faulty at open position. 

Any thought please .

cheers 

 

 

 

17 minutes ago, raky said:

Thanks Pete number  3 from right to left or left to right please ? Online status of fedex shows that it is in Germany at present hope to reach by Monday , 

Possibly I shall disconnect battery and remove one by one all fuses and physically see if all connected or cracks alternatively will change all not expensive.

 

Try swapping the unused one in position 6 (no wire attached) to position 3 if you want to be sure. Might be a 50A instead of 40A rated, but will prove the point.

Don't replace non-faulty parts, waste of time and money.

 

Not sure about your coolant level observations.  One thing at a time.

 

2 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

Try swapping the unused one in position 6 (no wire attached) to position 3 if you want to be sure. Might be a 50A instead of 40A rated, but will prove the point.

Don't replace non-faulty parts, waste of time and money.

 

Not sure about your coolant level observations.  One thing at a time.

 

 

 

Thanks Pete, There are very cheap around £3 so will change all after disconnecting battery. The value has been mentioned on each fuse hope to read and chnage accordingly , The  coolant ( pink from halford) and expansion tank has been changed recently , all looks fine, no leaks.  Will keep u posted . 

Cheers 

Hello Pete, At the moment I have three fan control module 1 mine and 2 bought on ebay ( bought thought they can temporary drive car til new parts arrives ), I shall try one by one all three shorting pin 1 and pin 3 of radiator switch  and see if there is any change on fan behaviour on clicking sound of module or high speed run , of course all already tested but fan did not started with AC on , defiantly AC is broken .

Keep u posted.

Cheers 

raky

Edited 11 May, 20224 yr by raky

1 hour ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

Try swapping the unused one in position 6 (no wire attached) to position 3 if you want to be sure. Might be a 50A instead of 40A rated, but will prove the point.

Don't replace non-faulty parts, waste of time and money.

 

Not sure about your coolant level observations.  One thing at a time.

 

 

 

Dear Pete,

You r a gem , Thanks you,  deserved highest award for helping all indirectly  saving planet  ( encouraging  no junks of electronics), here you go 3strip was broken that why was getting odd resistance , eagles & sharp eye caught it very quickly . I had spare one same 40 amp so replaced it saw another weak strip open one side and just made sure that it was connected.

 

Tested full speed fan  worked fine.  

 

Kept AC full engine temperature to 90 degree but no fan came  in shall I drive a while and see if fan come when temp is 98 degree , whats next please advice  ?

 

 

Kind Regards

raky

 

Edited 11 May, 20224 yr by raky

Oh, progress,  excellent!

I will think about next step tomorrow morning.  

Does the AC have known amount of refrigerant in (recent regas?).

This Guy is doing What Pete had advised possibly may make life easy for investigator by watching video. 

 

cheers

 

t 

1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Oh, progress,  excellent!

I will think about next step tomorrow morning.  

Does the AC have known amount of refrigerant in (recent regas?).

Thanks Pete All  credit goes to you , I am afraid , absolutely no idea I have never used AC, but there were two error codes pretainaing to AC and one was pretainaing to radio (+ Lambada sensor error code which is disconnected &  at the moment waiting for Bank1 sensor from CezcRepublic) .

 

i remembered 5 years back I have used AC once when it was very hot around 5 pm.

 

I had chat with my mechanic requested  AC related error  codes but he said he had cleared his diagnostics tool recently. 

 

I am relived as layman with limited knowledge I guess possibly thermostat or fan control module or even both may be  bad , need proper advice so that I can check voltage to confirm that.  I drive 30 miles to mechanic as he does nice job for me always so want to carry all necessary parts in case if there is more parts needed. At the moment I have bought Fan control module , Lambada sensor & thermostat switch( euro parts). 

My mechanic had tested with full AC on for a while  running engine  unplugged control module's bigger switch and found that there was no voltage in one pin which was possible signal for  fan to start.

 

I hope I don't need to spend money on AC regas or repair  as I don't use it , and  lower or higher speed fan can run independently of broken AC if it is.

 

I have noticed today that after a while stationary high rev with full AC on , the car engine shuts down automatically after few minutes ,  may have reached possible 100+ degree temperature engine ecu  had panic button to  stop overheating.  So it means I  need low speed fan for sure or even higher speed. 

Once again much appreciated for your all help & support.

 

Cheers  

raky

 

 

Dear @Pete_Ex-Wino 

Sorry to bother you , Can you please advice if u want me to find AC error code first to proceed further or if u have any plan B advice , I can probably short the wire to make sure fan runs slow & drive to local mechanic and get those code after getting scanned again.

Mean time before before going to garage  I am thinking  to test another 2 fan control modules and see if slow fan runs.  I saw the AC regas possibly I may buy can and refill it if needed not that expensive I think please correct me if I am wrong.

 

Hope to hear you soon.

Thanks 

Kind Regards 

raky

 

Edited 12 May, 20224 yr by raky