I need to buy a scan tool really I don’t have one so it sounds like a shout the battery is brand new I might need to go on a wire hunt after replacing this fuse by the sounds of it 

You want better than just a cheap error code reader type of scan tool for these type of issues, multimeter might be handy but things can get complicated (much too much so for the likes of me often).

 

Having a suitable brand new battery is good, bear in mind though that it can still be depleted (hopefully not with this issue) and still needs good electrical connections.

 

When following possible bodge and/or poor quality work more than usual you need to assume nothing and not overlook the very basics, sometimes things can be overlooked because you can't imagine that something would need checking or could be done wrong or in such a fashion.  You also need to factor in for more than one issue or cause and chain or cross effects.  Also check and recheck everything including any new parts, I've had faulty or broken new bulbs and even an intermittent fuse (few will believe that) and lots of other faulty new parts, such is the rush to the bottom of parts quality.

 

Hopefully it'll be one issue that can easily be sorted, good luck, my knowledge is far too limited to be of much use other than general experience of following on from poor quality work and bodges (sometimes mine).

 

Edited 11 June, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling

Yeah I get what you mean luckily the car still starts and drives I’m taking a lot of time out of my evening tonight fixing these wiring faults and by the sounds of it I’m going to need to inspect the main harness for more bodge work really 

All being well the bodger only done a bit of work.  The reversing lights fuse also popping might be a coincidence but whatever is on that fuse will need checking for unwanted interference and 'repairs'.  If you're lucky one wrong wire or connection can cause a range of issues.

 

Could be worse, you could be colour-blind. 😃

 

On 09/06/2022 at 23:47, mk2rs2008 said:

Okay not a problem I will give it a try 

 

that’s the weird dash light issue btw

 

 

 

 

ok, so after watching that (good video) to me the fault still lies within the drivers door wiring somewhere.

 

Did it do this BEFORE door loom work was carried out ?

 

For anything to be affected by locking (pressing the switch) that all comes / is controlled by the master door look / unit in the drivers door, it is to much of a coincidence that the door illumination (window switches) and dash lights flash when the door lock is pressed.

 

Was the loom repaired, or replaced ? or BOTH

 

I noticed also that the heated window switch and headlight range switch were not illuminated, these are fed from FUSE 35.

 

PS multiple quick succession presses of the door locking system will shut it down for a few mins, this is common on lots of cars and is a normal way the car protects the circuits from overloading.

Edited 11 June, 20223 yr by UrbanPanzer

1 hour ago, UrbanPanzer said:

PS multiple quick succession presses of the door locking system will shut it down for a few mins, this is common on lots of cars and is a normal way the car protects the circuits from overloading.

Yes, sorry, I was being sarcastic about the often annoying (and devious) VW computer programing, there's usually/probably info and warning on this in the Owner's Manual.

 

no need for any apology, I was just posting the info so people know.

Thanks.  I did think about posting an image of the info from the Owner's Manual but I couldn't remember seeing it in my quick look, I do remember seeing something about not being able to lock the doors if one door is open.

 

As can be seen I'm a big fan of reading the Operating Instructions but I do find the Fabia ones seem to have been written by a German apprentice engineer then possibly translated to Chinese before translated to English, I often read them and think that doesn't make sense there must be typos -but I can't be the first to throw stones about that.

 

Hi,

 

Right i think this is an issue with wiring as I have found a ground from the driver's side door on the car end of the loom that has been burnt out and seems to be stuck to a lot of wires the door seems to work if the loom is unplugged and then plugged back in the passagers door seems to be doing the same no issues with wires on that side of the car I'm not sure where pin 16 on the female end in the car goes to its a ground but I'm not sure if it's plugged into the BCM or something else this ground comes from the motor and its the small ground not the big one in the window of the door and then goes into the car into a bigger harness that seems to go to the back of the car and they both meet at the same point in the dash but after that they vanish around a corner that im unable to get my hand into and im unable to find where they go any ideas if they just loop back around to get to the BCM or is there a window motor module deep in the dash. 

On 11/06/2022 at 09:26, UrbanPanzer said:

 

 

ok, so after watching that (good video) to me the fault still lies within the drivers door wiring somewhere.

 

Did it do this BEFORE door loom work was carried out ?

 

For anything to be affected by locking (pressing the switch) that all comes / is controlled by the master door look / unit in the drivers door, it is to much of a coincidence that the door illumination (window switches) and dash lights flash when the door lock is pressed.

 

Was the loom repaired, or replaced ? or BOTH

 

I noticed also that the heated window switch and headlight range switch were not illuminated, these are fed from FUSE 35.

 

PS multiple quick succession presses of the door locking system will shut it down for a few mins, this is common on lots of cars and is a normal way the car protects the circuits from overloading.

 

 

hi,

 

The loom was replaced last week and i have found more wires that are not happy under the dash 😞 i think i have bitten off more than i can chew with this car im not going to give up just yet there might be some hope i did separate all of the wires that where melted together and just stuck some temp tape to make sure nothing shorts out on the ground but i think this ground that is burnt witch was not my doing must be shorting out deeper in the loom witch will make me cry i only want working windows im not asking alot fabia wich would explain why fuse 35 was blown as well as my reversee light fuse.

If pin 16 of the A-pillar side of the door connection goes to chassis earth/battery negative, then that is OK.

It meets with another earth wire somewhere within the loom behind the dash, and ends up at an earth bolt on the transmission tunnel.

 

 

 

23 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

If pin 16 of the A-pillar side of the door connection goes to chassis earth/battery negative, then that is OK.

It meets with another earth wire somewhere within the loom behind the dash, and ends up at an earth bolt on the transmission tunnel.

 

 

 

 

okay interesting it's pin 16 that is burnt out some other wires are melted together but locks are working fine so im assuming its only touching the signal wire going to the BCM that keeps shorting to ground so if i remove this ground from the harness the problem should be fixed of course ill need to put in a new ground and chase a new wire but that's for another day of headaches after work it sounds like its under the transmission tunnel as the tunnel seems to be lose to the car so i think someone has messed with it before trying to find the ground to remove it so im assuming its under there if not how do i get to the one on the negative terminal and ideas witch one it would be and where it leads to.  

As long as it connects to some metal somewhere it'll do the job.

1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

As long as it connects to some metal somewhere it'll do the job.

 

Thats true the wire is still connected to ground just need to find the end of it to get rid of the little bugger i need to take a picture of the mess it has made so see if there is anything sticking out like a sore thumb but the switch does not do the auto up or down so i think the switch its self is on the way out as well which is not handy. 

If there are question marks about some of the wiring coming off the A-pillar connector, a good one to check for continuity is the grey/white wire that does the communication between window motors on each side of the car, and the BCM. If that is disrupted/shorting somewhere it might explain window woes.

It goes from pin 5 of the 16 way connector at each front window motor to pin 5 of the door disconnect/A-pillar connectors each side, then also within the main dash loom, to pin 17 of a 73-way connector at the BCM.

Edited 14 June, 20223 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

3 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

If there's question marks about some o fthe wiring coming off the A-pillar connector, a good one to check for continuity is the grey/white wire that does the communication between window motors on each side of the car, and the BCM. If that is disrupted/shorting somewhere it might explain window woes.

It goes from pin 5 of the 16 way connector at each front window motor to pin 5 of the door disconnect/A-pillar connectors each side, then also within the main dash loom, to pin 17 of a 73-way connector at the BCM.

 

With the BCM is this located behind the fuse board on these cars is it located behind the hidden relays with the white and black plugs in the back of it? 

 

I have been assuming for a while this is the BCM but i could be horribly wrong this is what i think its looks like by feeling the plugs on it last night could not really see it though as it was dark and i was upside down.

 

#

 

Yep, that's it. Not sure if both of those connectors are 73 ways or not. 

Wiring diagram calls it 73b, as if there might be a 73a, but doesn't say anything about connector colour. 

Maybe best to find pin 17 on both of them, and see if the grey/white wire from pin 5 at the A-pillar gets to either?

Just now, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Yep, that's it. Not sure if both of those connectors are 73 ways or not. 

Wiring diagram calls it 73b, as if there might be a 73a, but doesn't say anything about connector colour. 

Maybe best to find pin 17 on both of them, and see if the grey/white wire from pin 5 at the A-pillar gets to either?

good plan i need to steal a multimeter tonight and have a play with it hopefully i get to the bottom of the issue.  

It's the white connector, I've just found out. 

Just now, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

It's the white connector, I've just found out. 

 

thats good how are the pins layd out does it go from top to bottom or bottom to top on this connecter or do i need to just send it and play around for a while  

39 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

Perfect ❤️ we will soon see how deep i have got myself into this car im getting quite giddy about the thought of finally fixing this issue if i cant don't it I'm going to have to put the white flag in but i'm determined to fix it now. 

Another thing to bear in mind is that you may have a fault with the window motor module, despite it working sometimes/briefly.

The type in your car is generally pretty cheap to find se condhand, but match part number exactly and preferably manufacture date as close as poss. to yours as parts list shows a few variants with (I speculate) different software versions.

 

1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Another thing to bear in mind is that you may have a fault with the window motor module, despite it working sometimes/briefly.

The type in your car is generally pretty cheap to find se condhand, but match part number exactly and preferably manufacture date as close as poss. to yours as parts list shows a few variants with (I speculate) different software versions.

 

 

Where is this module located for the windows im assuming the worst and thinking its in the middle of the dash hidden where my little hands can't fit im assuming lol.

 

If the module is the problem then this is going to be fun luckily it sounds like a cheap part as you mentioned. 

Just now, mk2rs2008 said:

Where is this module located for the windows

The window motors themselves contain the electronics modules.

On earlier cars (post facelift mk1 to pre-facelift mk2) they had no data (LIN) connections to anything except each other across the car, but from facelift mk2 they also connect into the BCM.

 

Not sure whether BCM or the driver's side module is the LIN master controller, it was the driver's side module in previous versions.