I took the valves out and I've spent a few hours cleaning the head (very time consuming). All valves came out with just a hand push.

I've used a combination of intake valve solvent, kerosene, kitchen paper towel and the green slightly abrasive kitchen towel for the two mating surfaces.

I've been very careful not to scratch these surfaces. Then I've used a Dremel with a wire mesh disk to clean the inside of the valves port.

There is no damage to the valve seats and the head seems to me in good condition so I'll reuse it. Three out of the eight intake valves have crushed the

lip of the head (the crush can be seen in the picture). For those I've used a chisel shaped knife with a flexible steel blade and I've removed a tiny amount of

the aluminium where it was crushed and I'm pleased with the result.

I wasn't able to clean the exhaust valves (I've tried a lot of solvents); the deposit on the valve surface is almost like stone and I don't want to use flame or

any mechanical grinding. So I've decided to change all the valves.

When I put it back together with a new head gasket should I also use a spray to cover both sides of it or is the gasket by itself good enough?

 

I take it you'll lap the valves in (old and new)? If the old exhaust valves were that cruddy you probably wouldn't get the suction cup to stick to them anyway.

On 31/08/2022 at 06:20, zelea2 said:

 

I wasn't able to clean the exhaust valves (I've tried a lot of solvents); the deposit on the valve surface is almost like stone and I don't want to use flame or

any mechanical grinding. So I've decided to change all the valves.

When I put it back together with a new head gasket should I also use a spray to cover both sides of it or is the gasket by itself good enough?

 

 

 

 

Good going. Quite a bit of work by sounds of it.

 

How are you checking valve guides?

 

16 new valves. That isn't going to be cheap. Are you using genuine valves,

 

I've not heard of a spray for head gasket install. The mating surfaces need to be clean. Deck confirmed flat and true. Install and follow bolt install sequence and torque down specs. 

9 hours ago, TheClient said:

How are you checking valve guides?

16 new valves. That isn't going to be cheap. Are you using genuine valves,

 

 

I don't think the valve guides or seats have been affected in any way, there is no mark on any of them and the old valves were not stuck.

I don't have any experience with changing valves but am I wrong thinking that I only need to replace them as is?

All changed parts are OEM. This is what I've ordered:

 

Timing chain kit Valves Gasket set

On 31/08/2022 at 16:15, Golf-Fiend said:

I take it you'll lap the valves in (old and new)? If the old exhaust valves were that cruddy you probably wouldn't get the suction cup to stick to them anyway.

Yes I'll manually lap all new valves before installing them with this valve tool

On 01/09/2022 at 18:17, zelea2 said:

 

I don't think the valve guides or seats have been affected in any way, there is no mark on any of them and the old valves were not stuck.

I don't have any experience with changing valves but am I wrong thinking that I only need to replace them as is?

All changed parts are OEM. This is what I've ordered:

 

Timing chain kit Valves Gasket set

You can but if any damage or wear to guides its a very suboptimal repair. Their are specs for the valve deviation. But if you can feel significant play or differences between valves that would be a red flag. 

 

I haven't counted but I've spent at least 20h cleaning the cylinder head and installing the new valves. I had
to go into every nook and cranny to remove the old sealant, clean the head cover, the exhaust manifold,
polishing the inlet and exhaust ports, polishing the injector ports, lapping the new valves into place and so on.

The exhaust threaded pins (from both ends) where quite rusty so I've used a tap and die kit to re-thread them

and I can now turn them by hand.

When lapping the seat for a new valve I've first used the coarse paste, removed one suction cup from one end
of the lapping tool and stick it in an electric drill. Then I've cleaned the paste, reapplied fine paste and finished

the lapping by hand. You could hear the change in pitch when the seat and valve were perfectly polished.

I was about to put the head back on when I've noticed in my gasket set 16 green caps which turned out to be
valve stem seals. I wasn't even aware those could be changed and no one here mentioned them. I am now
convinced those are to blame for my increase oil consumption given the state of the old spark plugs and valves
which were covered in a thick layer of carbon. The green rubber was much harder on the used ones compared to
the new from the set.  I just wish I've noticed them one day earlier because I had to take the valves off and
put them back on again and instead of half an hour it took me another 4h.  For the valve removal I've used
this tool which was incredibly good for its price. I've used it twice on 16 valves and it hasn't bent at all. 

For the stem seals you need yet another tool. This one was also cheap but not as good. I had to file down the
extractor (which looks like a forceps) clamps to make them close better and the gripping ribs are not deep
enough. It takes several pulls until you can remove one valve seal. The insert tool from this same kit was
perfect. It pushed down only on the metal part of the seal evenly on all sides and they are all changed now.

 

Tomorrow the cylinder head and exhaust turbo go back on the car.

Edited 12 September, 20223 yr by zelea2

I have a question: what is the correct sequence when installing the new chain once the head is bolted down?

 

The valve crankshafts have no bearings and are held down by the head cover screws (10 each).

Should I leave these screws loose until I adjust the chain and then torque them down just before releasing the tensioner clip?

I'll use the micrometer to set cylinder 1 at the maximum height and use the marks on the two crankshafts (and timing chain)

to position them and lock them with the tools from the timing kit.

23 hours ago, zelea2 said:

 

I haven't counted but I've spent at least 20h cleaning the cylinder head and installing the new valves. I had
to go into every nook and cranny to remove the old sealant, clean the head cover, the exhaust manifold,
polishing the inlet and exhaust ports, polishing the injector ports, lapping the new valves into place and so on.

The exhaust threaded pins (from both ends) where quite rusty so I've used a tap and die kit to re-thread them

and I can now turn them by hand.

When lapping the seat for a new valve I've first used the coarse paste, removed one suction cup from one end
of the lapping tool and stick it in an electric drill. Then I've cleaned the paste, reapplied fine paste and finished

the lapping by hand. You could hear the change in pitch when the seat and valve were perfectly polished.

I was about to put the head back on when I've noticed in my gasket set 16 green caps which turned out to be
valve stem seals. I wasn't even aware those could be changed and no one here mentioned them. I am now
convinced those are to blame for my increase oil consumption given the state of the old spark plugs and valves
which were covered in a thick layer of carbon. The green rubber was much harder on the used ones compared to
the new from the set.  I just wish I've noticed them one day earlier because I had to take the valves off and
put them back on again and instead of half an hour it took me another 4h.  For the valve removal I've used
this tool which was incredibly good for its price. I've used it twice on 16 valves and it hasn't bent at all. 

For the stem seals you need yet another tool. This one was also cheap but not as good. I had to file down the
extractor (which looks like a forceps) clamps to make them close better and the gripping ribs are not deep
enough. It takes several pulls until you can remove one valve seal. The insert tool from this same kit was
perfect. It pushed down only on the metal part of the seal evenly on all sides and they are all changed now.

 

Tomorrow the cylinder head and exhaust turbo go back on the car.

/cdn-cgi/mirage/a0e802c22bc8ccaca1bba957ae6180223e911ad2-1663099054-1800/1280/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2022_09/new_valves.thumb.jpg.2d1e95ab03fa2caebc48aa053a8417f4.jpg

/cdn-cgi/mirage/a0e802c22bc8ccaca1bba957ae6180223e911ad2-1663099054-1800/1280/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2022_09/valve_spings.thumb.jpg.558300b03b645eca7123cebaf39081d1.jpg

Valve stem seals can pass some oil but I don't think the qty you have discussed. Cylinder head looks brand new. Some work there for sure!! 

23 hours ago, zelea2 said:

I have a question: what is the correct sequence when installing the new chain once the head is bolted down?

 

The valve crankshafts have no bearings and are held down by the head cover screws (10 each).

Should I leave these screws loose until I adjust the chain and then torque them down just before releasing the tensioner clip?

I'll use the micrometer to set cylinder 1 at the maximum height and use the marks on the two crankshafts (and timing chain)

to position them and lock them with the tools from the timing kit.

The camshaft cover or girdle contains the integral bearings? If so tension the head properly. And then the cam cover or girdle or whatever they call it. The cams should still turn else you've got a problem? 

Cylinder head and cover are back on the car, engine timing done, chain covers back on.

I've put new teflon and rubber seals on the injectors and I'm ready to put the intake manifold back on.

I wish I've taken more detailed photos because there are still a few hoses which I'm not sure where they go 😉

One dreadful task still left to do is putting back that left engine bracket. I'm slowly getting there.

Looking good. I have some photos of my 2.0 ea888 when I took the Intake manifold off. I don't know how much they will help but I can send them to you if you pm me you email.  

On 19/09/2022 at 13:03, TheClient said:

I have some photos of my 2.0 ea888 when I took the Intake manifold off. I don't know how much they will help but I can send them to you if you pm me you email.  

Thanks, I've figured them all by myself.

 

I have very good news, my engine is now fully rebuilt, it started at first crank and it's working fine.

I've even made a quick 5 mile test drive and it seems to have more power than before (probably because I've cleaned it thoroughly).

I've also measured the cylinder compression and I have 11kPa for 1-3 and 10.5kPa on cylinder 4.

This was the most complex car repair I've ever done and being successful boosted my confidence a lot.

 

The most complex tasks in order of difficulty were:

- putting back on the left engine bracket (with the 3xM10 spline screws)

- installing the intake manifold

- connecting the 3 pipes back to the turbo exhaust (under the car with space for just one hand).

 

Brilliant. It's a very significant achievement. 

17 hours ago, zelea2 said:

This was the most complex car repair I've ever done and being successful boosted my confidence a lot.

Well done, the experience will serve you well in the future

Bravo! Well done. Not a task for the faint-hearted. Glad it went well. Tackle that and you'll be able to do anything.

So how much did this repair cost me? The answer is around £900 with half of that amount in tools that I can keep.

I will probably return the injector kit because the hammer and extraction tools are rubbish and I'll replace that with just the dies to install the injector teflon seals.

The US PRO 42pc set was of bad quality and I'll probably bin that.

In this repair I have reused the crankshaft bolt, the lower chain cover (I've removed it carefully) and the camshaft bridge.

I've only replaced the head bolts and all the gaskets.

 

Parts:
£131.24,Timing Chain Kit B18778
£121.35,Valves Kit B18634
£105.81,Gasket Set, cylinder head TS0063BT
£15.59,Sealing Substance 75000400
£11.46,Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz, Red
£7.90, Visbella RTV Silicone Hi-Temp Black Gasket Sealant For Oil Sump Engine Oil Pan
£18.08,Injector seal kit F 00V H35 007
£19.31, Camshaft Position Sensor 0986280600 Bosch 07L905163 07L905163C 06H905163A
£10.62, 9873 MANNOL Intake Valve EGR IAC and Throttle Body Cleaner Diesel Petrol 400ML
£9.95,Chemico Valve Grinding Paste 100g Fine & Coarse Grade + Lapping Stick Tool Set
£7.50, 50x VW Audi engine cover undertray splashguard wheel arch Torx Screw
£11.01,Sealey SCS104 Bentone Grease for Brakes 500g Tin
£469.82 Total

Tools:
£57.99,DEPSTECH Dual Lens Endoscope Camera, 1080P Dual Camera Borescope Inspection Camera with 7 Adjustable LED, Zoom Waterproof Snake Camera
£59.99,Mekanik Timing Tool Kit R4 EA888 16v 2006 onwards Compatible With Audi A3 A4 A5 TT Q3 Q5
£20.99,HFS (R AUTO Solid Valve Spring Compressor Automotive Tool Set Repair Tool Kit
£22.94,Professional Petrol Engine Compression Tester Kit Set for Automotives and Motorcycles
£49.99,18pcs Injector Puller Installer Removal Tool Set and Service Kit For Petrol VAG Vehicles 1.4,1.6,1.8,2.0,2.7 V6,3.0 V6, 3.02V6, 3.6 V6 and 4.2L FSI
£16.95,DAYUAN 11pcs Valve Stem Seal Remover and Installer Removal Extractor Installer Plier Tool Kit
£9.95, Magnetic Torx Extra Long TORX Screwdriver Set Star Set T15 T20 T25 T30 Torx Drive
£15.90, US PRO 42pc Set Hex, Allen, Torx, Star, Spline Bit Sockets 3/8" 1/2" DR 1486
£15.35, US PRO Tools 9pc 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" dr Impact Extension Bar Set For Sockets 3462
£18.95, US Pro Tools 3/8 Impact Spline Bit Socket Set Extra Long S2 Steel 7-Piece M5-M14
£16.95, 9pc Stubby Impact Spline Bit Socket Set M4 to M18 in EVA Foam Tray US PRO TOOLS
£25.78,Male Torx Star Impact Deep Sockets 9pc 1/2" Drive T20 - T70 by Bergen
£21.99,9 PCE Impact RIBE bit Socket Set R5 R6 R7 R8 R9 R10 R12 R13 R14 1/2" Drive
£10.72,Kora 77 Rubber Block
£6.99,BGS - 1/4" Drive, 300 mm - Straight Lock - Extension Bar - Pro Range - BGS 2210
£10.99,LEXIVON Impact Socket Adapter and Reducer 4-Piece Set | 1/4" - 3/8" - 1/2" Impact Driver Conversions, Chrome Molybdenum Alloy Steel (LX-112)
£19.99,LEXIVON XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | 10-Piece European Style M4 - M18 Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-145)
£16.79,Youyijia Torque Wrenches 1/4" Square Drive Torque Wrench 5-25Nm Adjustable Wrenches Ratchet Wrench with Double Scale Drive Torque Micrometer Chrome Va
£9.99,10 x SabreCut SCTKA10 50mm T10 T15 T20 T27 T30 T40 Impact Screwdriver Driver Bits Set Single Ended Torx 10 15 20 27 30 40 Heavy Duty Including Storage
£5.25, 10pcs 22mm Brass Wire Wheel Brush for Dremel Rotary Tool
£434.44 Total

Thanks for the post. Useful for others for out of pockets. 

 

So just an afternoon  work at 0£ per hour and a few hours work and later you're done,  😆

 

Good work. Btw.

Spoiler

Spoiler

😉

 

 

Just a follow up: I've done now more than a thousand miles with the car with no problems at all.

I've noticed that my previous oil consumption issue is gone, the oil level is still the same as when I've filled it after the repair.

It could be the new valve stem seals or something else I've done when I've rebuild the engine.

My fuel consumption is also better and I attribute this to thoroughly cleaning the nozzles of all injectors.

I've since also passed the MOT with flying colors. The engine is running great and has lots of power.

 

I have one nagging issue though, I keep getting one error every time I rev up the engine with little or no load:

000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
               P0011 - 000 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - MIL ON

My first thought was the timing might be off by one dent but I've triple checked all the chain marks and position

when I've assembled it back. I've then measured group 93 several times at different dates and I get excellent values:

Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment Adaptation
  760 /min  Engine Speed (G28)
  17.3 %  Engine Load
  18.0 %  Engine Load
  16.5 %  Engine Load
  0.88°  Phase Position Bank 1 Intake
  1.49°  Phase Position Bank 1 Intake
  1.44°  Phase Position Bank 1 Intake

The phase angle should be in the +/- 4° degrees interval and mine is even better so I'm not worried about the timing anymore.

 

There might be a lot of other causes for the above error:

- I have a new crankshaft sensor

- the new chain was at least 1cm shorter than the old one (which elongated over time)

- maybe camshaft timing control solenoid or valve are not working well (since the error comes back only when I rev the engine)

 

For now (until the warm weather comes back next year) I think I'll just ignore the camshaft error.

This indicates a problem with the variable camshaft adjustment. Also referred to as the variator. Other mfrs call it vvt.

 

Most likely the solenoid is faulty.

 

You can monitor the adjustment in vcds. Yours will likely not be responding to rpm chanfes very well.